Some water getting in Resolved

[hapyfishrmn]

Take a look at those two other threads. I'm combining @Frank Marshall's idea of extra screws and weld nuts underneath and @gmtech16450yz's ideas of the gasket, and bolt/washer/nut.

I may be using weld nuts after all. Grainger has a location close by with enough in stainless for my needs.

If this setup works well I think a good write up would be beneficial for those who want to follow your same ideas

 

[drewkaree]

If this setup works well I think a good write up would be beneficial for those who want to follow your same ideas

I'm kind of holding off on splitting this out to a thread of its own for this very reason

 

[hapyfishrmn]

Understood.
I don't get a lot of water coming in. For some reason our carpet gets wet tin the rear storage compartments. I always wondered if this is the reason for that area getting wet. I suspect it is related. I have been following along curious to know the outcome of your experiment.

 

[HangOutdoors]

@hpyfishrmn look at the bottom of your cupholders there may or may not be a hose attached. That is most likely where your carpet is getting wet. Check them all. The scenario that is being worked on here wouldn't be the cause of wet carpet, since the water goes down into the bilge.

 

[drewkaree]

Understood.
I don't get a lot of water coming in. For some reason our carpet gets wet tin the rear storage compartments. I always wondered if this is the reason for that area getting wet. I suspect it is related. I have been following along curious to know the outcome of your experiment.

Rear carpets in the storage compartments are probably related to the cup holders, and either a line not connected, or they're not connected

 

[jamesk]

Understood.
I don't get a lot of water coming in. For some reason our carpet gets wet tin the rear storage compartments. I always wondered if this is the reason for that area getting wet. I suspect it is related. I have been following along curious to know the outcome of your experiment.

Mine was wet on starboard side, turned out the pissers where leaking because the clamp was not tight.

 

[zipper]

Regular, or fast cure? Right now, Amazon is really letting me down with their shipping, so I may just have another week to wait for regular 5200 to cure. The neighbor has some "stainless steel epoxy putty" coming from his son-in-law who works at a foundry, but I don't think that'll stick to the fiberglass at all. I got some Loctite Repair Putty since it cures white, but I also bought some epoxy at the same time so I'm sorted for whichever way I decide to go. Gonna test a pinch of the Loctite stuff since it'll be testable in an hour.

What I thought were my weld nuts turned out to be a shipping mistake by Amazon. They instead sent me a 6-flute 13.5mm chucking reamer. The universe is telling me to try the screws first, and fall back to the bolts later. The weld nuts (as well as adding additional screws) were an idea from @Frank Marshall from this post in this thread about the same issues. Seems like the threads stripping out will happen to me as well. Screws are smaller than the 1/4"x20 bolts I will need, so this will work for this weekend, at the very least. Clearance hole for my screws is already 3/16", and IIRC, there's plenty of room to open them up to accomodate the bolts. The gasket idea was from @gmtech16450yz from this post in this thread, although I wanted something more substantial than the speed nuts that he used.

@HangOutdoors here's a pic of the weld nuts. I would run the bolts through a washer, through the holes drilled in the cleanout tray, through the deck, and into the weld nut. The weld nut would have some 5200 on the red spot, either front side or back side, depending on how the nut looks when I get it..



Hold the weld nut in place, tighten everything up, and the bolt would hold the weld nut to the underside of the decking while the 5200 cures. There looks to be a "collar" of some sort around the bolt hole, and I would probably use some vaseline or something on the bolt just in case some 5200 oozed over to the bolt. When cured, I'd have 24 individual spots to run the bolts through, and provide some slight pressure to compress the gasket to the deck, similar to @2kwik4u and his aluminum plate idea to keep the whole area tight to the deck.

I used regular 5200 as that is what I used to put the trim tabs on. I waited 5-6 days to drill. I did not have any fast cure. And in April I was in no hurry.

 

[HangOutdoors]

@drewkaree Finger is feeling better, temperatures are rising, weekend is coming...... Wanting to see how your gasket is coming or finally came out, debating on my course of action.

 

[drewkaree]

Got my parts.

Reading more responses and seeing multiple responses of the screws stripping out, both before and after others attempting to fix this, I decided to go the bolts/washers/nuts route. Only decision left to make is 4200 or 5200. I have to re-do the drain fittings in the ski locker and engine compartment floor, so I'm probably going to use 4200 for the weld nuts I'm going to be using, since I'll need to open it up anyway. @HangOutdoors Metal scupper replacement as well, 4200 for that, or did you use something else?

So, here's my parts, and a little mockup/diagram of what I'm gonna be doing.

The weld nut. This will be used on the underside of the boat deck. 1/4-20 stainless weld nut, from Grainger.

 

[HangOutdoors]

@drewkaree 4200 UV Fast Cure for the Scupper, Since it sits above water and I would assume sunlight could be bounced on it so it won't yellow. Also may want to remove it someday or need to. The crap they had on there was pathetic, from the factory.

 

[drewkaree]

Ace Hardware, stainless 1/4-20 bolt, 3/4" length. Stainless flat washer as well. I don't think I even need the washer, given the size of the head on this bolt. A fender washer would be larger and spread the pressure a bit more, but it might be too large for the area and wouldn't/couldn't be used. If someone attempts this and ends up with a bolt that has a smaller head, use a washer.

 

[Babin Farms]

@drewkaree your hatch is going to be bulletproof!! ?

 

[drewkaree]

Here's how these will be used

 

[drewkaree]

@drewkaree your hatch is going to be bulletproof!! ?

? Man, I seriously hope so!

 

[drewkaree]

For installation, I'll put the bolt through the washer, drop it down through the holes, add a bit of 4200 to the weld nut, get the bolt started in the weld nut, then hold the weld nut in position while I tighten down the bolt. This should draw the weld nut tight to the underside of the decking, compress the 4200 to spread it out and have it make contact with the decking for a reasonably permanent installation. The bolt should hold everything in place while the 4200 cures. In the future, should I need to remove the hatch, the weld nuts should remain in place, allowing for easy removal and reinstallation, as well as give something for the bolt to grab onto. This should (hopefully) ensure the gasket seals completely agains the topside of the boat and keeps water from entering the bilge.

I also got a different drain fitting. The lip is slightly thinner, and the fitting itself is metal. Since it has a gasket, the plan is to remove all the stuff left over from the old plastic drain fitting, add some sealant to the flange of the new fitting and slide it into place, then add the gasket and nut to the bottom side of the fitting, under the cleanout tray. That should be 2 lines of defense from water intrusion in that area, and the fitting should have less water left in the area since it'll be lower than the old plastic one, allowing more water to drain.

 

[drewkaree]

I'm so mad at all of you guys, you all watched my dumb ass with a calipers NOT measure the actual thickness of the deck, and go buy bolts that are too short! ?‍?‍

My neighbor, the jokester, when I tell him this replies back with "but it's only short on one end" ?

So I get to wait until tomorrow to head into town to get 1.25" bolts. ALSO, like a dummy, I didn't take into account that I would have a hole underneath the head of each bolt, better known as "24 places for water to leak in". Don't be an idiot like me, get rubber washers instead of stainless, USE the washers, and take into consideration the thickness of the washers when sizing the length of the bolt to use. Totally on you guys ?

Looks like the gasket will seal nicely to the area, based on the screws I left in, and how they formed to the opening. Might be a bit tough to see, but that black line I added is parallel to the gasket that compressed, and the excess folded down into the cavity. I'm happy to see this:

 

[drewkaree]

Here's a good shot of how this will ultimately work once I have the right bolts. You will have the ability to direct the tab on the weld nuts in any direction, this is just for demonstration. I would have them turned under the meatiest part at each hole

 

[drewkaree]

. .. And the thinner lip of the metal drain fitting. It ain't much, but it's better than the original, and I like the tapered drain hole on the metal fitting

 

[HangOutdoors]

@drewkaree You aren't going over the edge are you? "Step away from the from the boat qith the tools"

 

[drewkaree]

No, I was just trying to knock out some of this work tomorrow it is supposed to rain