Speaker/Amp Recommendations

[BlkGS]

NVX has been dyno tested by several independent testers to show they produce 100% of what they advertise. 50% is just not true.

CCA isn’t copper! It’s aluminum with copper coating! OFC is pure copper. I completely disagree with it just being a marketing gimmick.

Absolutely. OFC has a much lower impedance than CCA, which may or may not be a big deal in your setup. In mine, my amps are right by my batteries, so it's a smaller issue. But if you put the amps in the helm, it's a major issue that adds heat to your wires.

NVX and Rockville are both house brands for large online retailers. They typically do rms power for the amps, but I would say their power handling specs can be a bit misleading. That said, nvx has some subwoofer that actually sound very good, with shooting rings and other sq features unheard of at their price point. My c4 has a pair of 8 inch nvx subs instead of rear speakers and they honestly sound way better than many higher end subs.

 

[ellj]

That'll work fine. Are you planning to add more speakers later?

Possibly would add tower speakers

 

[ripler]

Just got an email that my Wetsounds SYN-DX400 (Yamaha SBT-DX400-00-17) has been delayed until 5/3. When I placed the order the vendor where I bought it from checked Yamaha factory stock and it was in stock. I'm going to have to shop around now to find someone with stock because I don't trust the 5/3 date.

 

[212s]

Possibly would add tower speakers

Ah so you would bridge the outputs to the towers I'm guessing? That works.

 

[212s]

Just got an email that my Wetsounds SYN-DX400 (Yamaha SBT-DX400-00-17) has been delayed until 5/3. When I placed the order the vendor where I bought it from checked Yamaha factory stock and it was in stock. I'm going to have to shop around now to find someone with stock because I don't trust the 5/3 date.

Does WS not have them in stock?

 

[ripler]

Does WS not have them in stock?

I'm buying it as a Yamaha accessory and it's shipping from Yamaha. Using the Yamaha accessory part number I can get the amp for $525.00 plus tax, buying it using the WS part number and buying from a WS dealer it would cost $1100.00.

 

[Farny]

I'm buying it as a Yamaha accessory and it's shipping from Yamaha. Using the Yamaha accessory part number I can get the amp for $525.00 plus tax, buying it using the WS part number and buying from a WS dealer it would cost $1100.00.

I thought I have seen discussion somewhere on this forum the Yamaha part / WS amp doesn’t have the same output as the WS direct purchase (different amp)?

 

[ripler]

I thought I have seen discussion somewhere on this forum the Yamaha part / WS amp doesn’t have the same output as the WS direct purchase (different amp)?

There are 2 part numbers for the Wetsounds amps through Yamaha, the one that is considered factory and comes installed from the factory start with the letter F. The Wetsounds amps that are add on accessories start with SBT. I will find out either way when I get my amp and I will post my findings in this thread when I do.

This is an example of the part number that comes in a 255XD, these would use the factory harness and DSP.



Here's an example of the amp that is considered an accessory, it is a totally different part number.

 

[ripler]

Here's a link to the thread where this was discussed. I believe the one in post #2 may have been the OEM part number and not the accessory part number.

The best deal on Wet Sounds amps and audio gear here (vvvv) | JetBoaters.net - The World's Largest Jet Boat Forum!

 

[ripler]

Got the WS amp today and it's definitely not a DSP version. I paid 525.00 plus tax and free shipping from boats.net. I'm going to use this on my REV10s and the existing SYN DX6 on my 4 interiors and sub.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I’ve read through this whole thread with a certain degree of fascination…. It’s been a very long time since I messed with sound systems, 25 years to be precise.

Here’s my question. It used to be that THD or total harmonic distortion was the metric used for sound quality in comparison to just how loud a system could be. So why is that metric not used anymore?

 

[adrianp89]

I’ve read through this whole thread with a certain degree of fascination…. It’s been a very long time since I messed with sound systems, 25 years to be precise.

Here’s my question. It used to be that THD or total harmonic distortion was the metric used for sound quality in comparison to just how loud a system could be. So why is that metric not used anymore?

It’s a complex metric and stuff is so good these days you wouldn’t even notice a difference… especially on a boat.

 

[BlkGS]

THD is still used, but sound quality has gotten much more subjective.

 

[BlkGS]

It’s a complex metric and stuff is so good these days you wouldn’t even notice a difference… especially on a boat.

That's another good point, on a boat you've got a LOT of outside noise factors that don't exist for most cars. Wind, outside noise, the water... all that is going to overpower thr distortion.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thanks!

Two of my stock speakers went out… I just replaced for the rest of the season … may look into a new system over winter.

 

[212s]

That's another good point, on a boat you've got a LOT of outside noise factors that don't exist for most cars. Wind, outside noise, the water... all that is going to overpower thr distortion.

Except when you're floating and quiet...that's my "metric" for true sound quality.

Even in a vehicle, with the windows down, there's a LOT of noise that affects your listening - tire/road noise, wind noise, loud car exhausts, horns, whatever. Compared to vehicles, boats don't really have that much more noise.

 

[BlkGS]

Except when you're floating and quiet...that's my "metric" for true sound quality.

Even in a vehicle, with the windows down, there's a LOT of noise that affects your listening - tire/road noise, wind noise, loud car exhausts, horns, whatever. Compared to vehicles, boats don't really have that much more noise.

In the many years I've spent in audio, I've never heard of anyone doing an Sq build for windows down. All those factors of external noise, but changing all the cabin volumes (and thus gain), changes to the internal door volume, etc... it's a nightmare. Then add in all those sources of noise being variable... yuck.

Back the the question at hand though, one thing we also neglected to mention is that you don't typically rate a component "for THD"of whatever. You have other ratings "at a specific THD". Your wattage on an amp or speakers, etc are all rated at a THD of say 0.1%, some lower end gear will rate at higher THD levels like 1 or 10%, there was a time a company that rated at 0.01%, not sure if they're still around though.

IMO, a boat 1% is fine, but 0.1% ratings are better. But it's worth keeping in mind that's just a number telling you at what point you start to build in however much distortion. Personally, I think on a boat sensitivity is more important. You're not going to have any dedicated range speakers aimed directly at you in a boat like you could a Sq oriented car, and most boat owners really just want their sound to be clear and loud, not necessarily a true competition level sound quality.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thanks for all the reply’s !

After reading the reply’s about my question regarding THD, @BlkGS response in particular jogged my memory in regards to what used to be used to rate a sound system, it was THD at a given output of watts, such as .01% @ X number of watts. Anything beyond that wattage output and the sound quality began a steep decline. Also, if I remember correctly, if you wanted really good sound, you had to get an amp of greater output and run it at mid level where THD was the smallest to get really loud and clean sound.

As @adrianp89 pointed out, the systems these days have become very good, my late model ford pick ups’ factory sound system still impresses me regularly with how good the overall system sounds, and although it’s been a long time since I put the upgraded system in my 97 ford my perception is that the stock system in my late model truck is far better than my aftermarket Kenwood system in my 97.

Again, I appreciate the reply’s To my question!

 

[BlkGS]

Thanks for all the reply’s !

After reading the reply’s about my question regarding THD, @BlkGS response in particular jogged my memory in regards to what used to be used to rate a sound system, it was THD at a given output of watts, such as .01% @ X number of watts. Anything beyond that wattage output and the sound quality began a steep decline. Also, if I remember correctly, if you wanted really good sound, you had to get an amp of greater output and run it at mid level where THD was the smallest to get really loud and clean sound.

As @adrianp89 pointed out, the systems these days have become very good, my late model ford pick ups’ factory sound system still impresses me regularly with how good the overall system sounds, and although it’s been a long time since I put the upgraded system in my 97 ford my perception is that the stock system in my late model truck is far better than my aftermarket Kenwood system in my 97.

Again, I appreciate the reply’s To my question!

I'm a big believer in having more power out of your amp than your speakers are "rated for" for exactly why you described. Your outputs before distortion and clipping both go up, and the power rating of a speaker is very misleading. You can run calculations that show when a speaker will run out of excursion in various size enclosures (or none at all) and will find it can happen MUCH sooner than the power ratings can

 

[Farny]

I'm a big believer in having more power out of your amp than your speakers are "rated for" for exactly why you described. Your outputs before distortion and clipping both go up, and the power rating of a speaker is very misleading. You can run calculations that show when a speaker will run out of excursion in various size enclosures (or none at all) and will find it can happen MUCH sooner than the power ratings can

This might explain the following situation: I am pushing 100w rms to each of my stock WS 6” speakers rated at 60w each. Sounds great and nothing blown. No distortion at full volume. I set the gains to clip (kicker gain light) then backed off slightly. I honestly thought I would smoke my speakers to justify to the admiral getting the 6.5 WS with RGB. no luck I can’t smoke em!