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The official "What did you do to your jet boat today" thread.

swatski

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I use one often in the semi I drive for work, which is how I found out about putting it inside the wheel. Others who don't want to use it would ask me to take it off, which was a PITA, but inside, I never got any more complaints.

I think the more you use it, the more you'll be wondering why you didn't add it sooner 😀
Gotta listen to a tracker. So, I flipped that knob back to the inside. And it is staying there!
Love that thing.
103440

--
 

jEt_jAk

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Reduces cavitation. It’s the lucky13 cone pump
 

JetBoatPenguin

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Reduces cavitation. It’s the lucky13 cone pump
Was it the cavitation you were trying to reduce . . . or get a higher speed? The 1000 question is . . . how do it find in for performance. Did you do a before and after vid by chance?
 

Dean P

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@jEt_jAk I like your (garage) floor. Is that an epoxy type spread? Did you do that?
 

Brad460

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Was it the cavitation you were trying to reduce . . . or get a higher speed? The 1000 question is . . . how do it find in for performance. Did you do a before and after vid by chance?
That is one thing I struggled to find- data...performance data. Id like to see some side by side comparison..

It’s sure looks cool, but what is the proof it performs?

If it cures “cavitation” then why do I need it? I don’t notice any cavitation with my boat..well not that I know..
 

jEt_jAk

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That is one thing I struggled to find- data...performance data. Id like to see some side by side comparison..

It’s sure looks cool, but what is the proof it performs?

If it cures “cavitation” then why do I need it? I don’t notice any cavitation with my boat..well not that I know..
@swatski has done a good side by side compare video you can see here. I haven’t yet been out on lake to try it out.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/anyone-tried-the-lucky-13-perfomance-adjustable-pump-cone-in-a-boat.7967/page-2#post-145001
 

swatski

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RightStuff

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Added a few additional drains in the gutters under the seats in places that collect rain water that leaks thru the cover around the tower.

Supplies:
- Push-In Impact Drains - 1.5" white, 3/8" diameter : Push-In Impact Drains
- 3/8 inch clear tubing, ~20ft
- White silicone caulk
- Zip ties

103865

103867

103868

And of course he was no help at all...
103870
 

Zeusmotorworks

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RightStuff thanks for the link... perfect size as I have the same issue with my 210 FSH
 

S1LV3R4D0

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Fixed the "Your new yamaha doesnt have SiriusXM" issue. Still irks me that in a new 2019 we have an outdated radio. Good thing i had this leftover sitting around in the garage from the wifes old work car. Found a power adapter on amazon for $10 and a suction cup mount for $7. Used an old aux cable i had.

104343
104344
104345

And installed my new switches too. Easiest nite of mods so far, lol.

104346
104347
104348
 

grywlfbg

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Well, technically this was yesterday, but I brought the boat home from the dealer.
IMG_20190906_1640161.jpg
Then installed my CJS w/ fangs. Here's the before pic.
IMG_20190906_1707584.jpg
Looks like the X boats are really toed out (Surfpointe). It's hard to see in the picture but the poor thing looks cross-eyed. I adjusted them slightly toed in per @Cobra Jet Steering LLC instructions. Here's the after pic:
IMG_20190906_1855087.jpg
The yoke on the port side is spun pretty far out, while the right one is really far in. Is there a way to change the length of the cable from inside the boat? I'll try to get some close up pics so you can tell me if it's dangerously out or is normal.
 

BigAbe75

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Well, technically this was yesterday, but I brought the boat home from the dealer.
View attachment 104686
Then installed my CJS w/ fangs. Here's the before pic.
View attachment 104687
Looks like the X boats are really toed out (Surfpointe). It's hard to see in the picture but the poor thing looks cross-eyed. I adjusted them slightly toed in per @Cobra Jet Steering LLC instructions. Here's the after pic:
View attachment 104688
The yoke on the port side is spun pretty far out, while the right one is really far in. Is there a way to change the length of the cable from inside the boat? I'll try to get some close up pics so you can tell me if it's dangerously out or is normal.
Disconnect the cables and center the steering wheel, then make adjustments and reconnect the steering cables to the bucket. I had to do the same. My steering was all wonky, as well.

My steering wheel has just less than 3/4 turn in both directions from center.
 

Cobra Jet Steering LLC

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Yes you should center your steering wheel.
First release the lock nut at both cable attachments on your steering nozzles .
Then remove the bolt that attaches the cable ends to the nozzle. Releasing the lock nut is a lot easier when you do it first!!!
then use a long straight edge across both nozzle openings , having someone help you by holding the edge tight against the nozzle openings while you readjust the cable ends to match the steering arms. will make this a lot easier.
Once you do that both cable ends will have about the same unused threads in each end. Note often the port side cable threads are set so far out of place that the ends of that cable get damaged by striking the steering arm of the nozzle, you should not see this as the boat is new.
Once the cable ends are set evenly , reattach the cable ends to the nozzles by returning the bolts and nuts and then followed by retightening the lock nuts on both cable ends.
Now you need to readjust the tie rods to match the rudder again having someone help you by holding the rudder at a 90 degree angle from the back of the boat is helpful.
Place the right side tie rod below the left side tie rod , after you have the length figured for each tie rod add 1/2 turn OUT to only one end of each rod this will provide the tow in on the leading edges of the fins that will provide excellent straight tracking at speed Also secure the lock nuts on each tie rod end.
 
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grywlfbg

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Thanks @BigAbe75 and @Cobra Jet Steering LLC I think I centered the steering wheel but will double check tomorrow morning. I did the flat edge trick (had a drywall square laying around). But because the nozzles were toed out so much, I had to really shorten the starboard cable and really lengthen the port one to get them to slightly toed in. I thought maybe the wheel wasn't centered and for a moment I thought if turned the wheel it would shorten one and lengthen the other but of course since the steering cables attach to the starboard side of both nozzles so the cables move together.

We had the boat out today and it ran perfectly. Had a tiny bit of a left drift when I let go of the wheel. It's very possible the rudder wasn't perfectly centered when I tightened the tie rods down. Will tweak that at some point (probably when I do my L13 install since I'll have to unhook all the cables and such anyway).
 

swatski

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I swapped both of my OEM/factory 6AP10 impellers with the "single" OEM 6CWs. Very curious about the results. Since my 6APs are basically new /looking still pristine it should be a fair comparison.
I left the L13 setup the same, 3 spacers on the PORT and none on the STRBD side.

The 6CWs (on the sides) are about 1/2 inch taller and look massive next to the 6AP (in the middle):
104739

IMG_1250.JPG

Even though the trailing edge pitch appears the exact same:
IMG_1257.JPG

I had to set up my impeller swapping station again:
IMG_1253.JPG

And find my "breaker bar"! (it makes quick work of it)
IMG_1254.JPG

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JetBoatPenguin

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Installed new Cobra Jet Steering Ultimates earlier in the week. Thanks Jeff. Sea trial was yesterday and what a positive difference to the boat.

Installed ez-locks.

Installed new Whitecap locking replacement latch for ski locker. New one installed in the pic.

And yesterday in a right of passage sucked up a tube rope...and managed to get the engine shutdown prior to it getting to the impeller..and managed to unwind it from the drive shaft...to continue the day of tubing. +1 for extra thick 4 person tube rope.
 

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