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I can see the usefulness of the extra tie rod. I'll be interested in your experience with the lateral thrusters. I don't have much need for them with my typical boating, except for one bar. Current is coming around a corner, and it's one of the faster-moving spots on the river. Thankfully, they offer shite service and are overpriced, so we rarely stop in.
When you order the 2.0 Lateral Thrusters, you get new designed fins so that all 4 have the new cutouts. I'm thinking about adding an additional tie rod now since there is clearance. I hope I like the thrusters, I drilled my FN nozzles. Thoughts on the additional tie rod? Should take the strain off the starboard cable.
well if you ever broken a steering cable you will want the other tie rod... I have looked for ways to put tie rods on my boat but i haven't worked al that hard on it... I don't have a articulating keel so I'll have to machine a bellcrank , and clear the trim tab actuator and make new inner fins for the CJ's, the other possibility is to tig on some different tabs to the nozzles stead of using the stock ones... as you get the new nozzles when you order the originals from yamaha...
hung up our flag.
guide poles…
bilge water outlet…I need to widen the pisser holes…
inflated the tube to check for leaks
came to the conclusion that the Mission Reef Hex 112 will not fit in the anchor locker….
I also removed the trailer jack in hopes to install the new one… I was a 1/4in short on clearance…
More tomorrow!
Installed the transducer onto my AR190 which is yet to get wet.
Dead level, parallel with the centerline. Everything countersunk.
Wire goes up through the vertical back deck aux drain hose, and follows the throttle cable all the way to the panel where the head unit is.
Protip - with the path of the wire, think it through. Don't forget to thread it through the through hull, the inside nut, the hose and the hose clamps.
Or you'll be pulling out and re-running that wire a second, or third time....
Im back with more!
pissers are in. I tell you what. On a 252 these bastards are hard to get to.
We got the 2” hole with the screws for the No in no problem! Much easier and less scary once it was in motion.
Noco Dual Battery Tender put up with the fire extinguisher re-located to the right a bit.
got the leads squared away and “tiddied” <— I dont know how to spell that one and autocorrect cant either.
We also started to remove some of the stickers on the boat. More to come later!
Popped this voltage readout in my dash today to monitor the battery charge because I’m a little less confident in the charging capabilities of the stator that Yamaha uses compared to a traditional alternator.
Absolutely nothing on my jet boats today... was working on a Sherwood H-5 pump off a perkins diesel as the snap ring had fused itself to the bearing race and proceeded to disintegrate itself.. I got it out but not without some delicate work on the rotary table with a 1/4" 4 flute carbide end mill to cut the snap ring free of the bearing race....
Popped this voltage readout in my dash today to monitor the battery charge because I’m a little less confident in the charging capabilities of the stator that Yamaha uses compared to a traditional alternator.
I was thinking about having spare drive flange machined for a Radius tooth belt drive and running delco 10SI maybe getting a Nippon denso mini alternator from Jones Racing Products Like I have on 71 vette widebody... with 50-60A... JRP will tune and dyno your alternator for the RPM/Output curve you want... and they have a great selection of CNC pulleys... Just a thought...
I was thinking about having spare drive flange machined for a Radius tooth belt drive and running delco 10SI maybe getting a Nippon denso mini alternator from Jones Racing Products Like I have on 71 vette widebody... with 50-60A... JRP will tune and dyno your alternator for the RPM/Output curve you want... and they have a great selection of CNC pulleys... Just a thought...
Interesting idea and I'm curious but my initial thought is that that would be more work than its worth. My understanding is that we should be seeing somewhere between 20-30A from our stator. Should be enough for most people. Am I way off on that?
Interesting idea and I'm curious but my initial thought is that that would be more work than its worth. My understanding is that we should be seeing somewhere between 20-30A from our stator. Should be enough for most people. Am I way off on that?
Popped this voltage readout in my dash today to monitor the battery charge because I’m a little less confident in the charging capabilities of the stator that Yamaha uses compared to a traditional alternator.
I did the same volt meter a couple of months ago. Really handy to have. Saw a huge drop in voltage to my accessory battery a few months back and it pointed me to a tripped circuit breaker. Easy DIY project.
Got rid of the useless phone holder on the dash and installed a robust wireless charger that will do landscape and portrait. FINALLY ordered my Lectrotab Trim Tabs. Thanks everyone for your input, especially @HangOutdoors
Got rid of the useless phone holder on the dash and installed a robust wireless charger that will do landscape and portrait. FINALLY ordered my Lectrotab Trim Tabs. Thanks everyone for your input, especially @HangOutdoors