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The official "What did you do to your jet boat today" thread.

i just went with OEM ones, took about a month to get in.
Sounds like Yamaha supply chain issues are improving. It took me about 6 months to get mine.
 
I am an idiot!! Needed to change a flat tire and instead of leaving hooked up to my Jeep, I thought it would be fine to disconnect as long as I had blocks on the tires. Jacked it up and the torque bent my new jack stand!! This is after the tire was changed.
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Added New Goodyear Endurance and I Plasti Dipped trailer wheels. New Spline Lug Nuts Black. Wheels high speed balanced to 80 mph, although it will never see that. Checked brakes as well as lubricated all moving joints for springs and connection points.

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Mount for IPAD Pro 12.9 on 252SE. Really my only option. Tried going to the left of the screen, but it’s too much in the walkway and somebody will hit it going back-and-forth between the bow and stern. I may have been able to make something work on the right side, but then it would completely cover the radio. I could have put the radio below the helm and mounted the IPad vertical where the cell phone holder goes which would’ve worked perfectly, but I would’ve had to buy an external GPS for the radio. This involved no drilling, so I may decide to make that change in the future. Someone else mentioned challenges having the iPad Bluetooth connect to the radio, I have the same issue. My iPhone pairs perfectly, but it can’t find iPad.

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Added New Goodyear Endurance and I Plasti Dipped trailer wheels. New Spline Lug Nuts Black. Wheels high speed balanced to 80 mph, although it will never see that. Checked brakes as well as lubricated all moving joints for springs and connection points.

View attachment 183384View attachment 183385
Excellent job. They look like professionally done. Did you actually dip them, or use the spray on? I have tried both, but not really happy with the results.
 
Pulled the pump. Took it to a local shop to put in new impeller and wear ring. Guy said he had to spot weld a bolt to the wear ring to get it out. Well worth $50 not having to deal with either.

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those wear rings should slide right out. Held in by 2 fat o-rings. You were tossing them anyway, so no biggee.
 
Excellent job. They look like professionally done. Did you actually dip them, or use the spray on? I have tried both, but not really happy with the results.
Can Spray
 
those wear rings should slide right out. Held in by 2 fat o-rings. You were tossing them anyway, so no biggee.

?‍♂️ I would have him paid $50 just to switch the impeller, the wear ring was a bonus lol
 
Excellent job. They look like professionally done. Did you actually dip them, or use the spray on? I have tried both, but not really happy with the results.

For the can, shaking till your arm falls off will greatly improve your results. If you got a lot of sputtering or globs, either it needed to be shook even longer, or it could have been old. Last tip for this stuff (Rustoleum also makes something similar), the temperature is something to take into account. 70-80 seems to be the best. Hotter seems to help, but I don't know beyond 80 how well it works, as I'm in WI, but I can verify that colder than 70 means you will have to pay closer attention to results, stop and shake more often, and it will take longer to cure.
 
Added New Goodyear Endurance and I Plasti Dipped trailer wheels. New Spline Lug Nuts Black. Wheels high speed balanced to 80 mph, although it will never see that. Checked brakes as well as lubricated all moving joints for springs and connection points.

View attachment 183384View attachment 183385
Won't say I have never hit 80 with the boat, but typically tow at that speed for any distance. Did you Plasti dip the wheels yourself, hard?
 
For the can, shaking till your arm falls off will greatly improve your results. If you got a lot of sputtering or globs, either it needed to be shook even longer, or it could have been old. Last tip for this stuff (Rustoleum also makes something similar), the temperature is something to take into account. 70-80 seems to be the best. Hotter seems to help, but I don't know beyond 80 how well it works, as I'm in WI, but I can verify that colder than 70 means you will have to pay closer attention to results, stop and shake more often, and it will take longer to cure.
Ya they say to put the can in a cup of warm water before spraying. That's why I've always done and it seemed to help. I've also not done that before and you can definitely tell a difference...lol
 
Won't say I have never hit 80 with the boat, but typically tow at that speed for any distance. Did you Plasti dip the wheels yourself, hard?

I haven't done my boat, but I've done other wheels, 4 dryer vents, tools, and stuff I wanted a little more protection for, but didn't really want to use other paint for. Prep is important, but plastidip is more forgiving than regular spray paint if you are good with a matte finish.

If you're going to do your wheels, you'll get a better result taking them off and laying them flat over some cardboard to spray. Get a spray can handle so it's easier on your hands, and get a deck of cards. Stick the cards between the rim and tire as a mask to keep overspray off your tires. Do several light coats, but thicker than you would do with regular spray paint. As soon as you are done, remove the cards. If you forget to remove the cards, or it's already starting to stick, LEAVE the cards alone for the entire time, and use a razor or exacto knife to trim them free at the end.

It kinda "melts" into itself, so if you mess up something or need to touch it up, you don't need to sand or anything, just wipe it clean, let it dry, and lightly spray it til it's fixed.
 
I am officially out of the ladder down club. The red led lights up when the ignition is on and the ladder is down. Thanks goes out to @buckbuck and trace

A few years back I custom ordered a door for under the dash and finally got it installed. It took a dremel cut out bit to cut the hole 20220724_192703.jpg20220724_192718.jpgand a dremel sanding cylinder to shape the frame since it came thicker than spec. It also covered up the media shelf that I don't think I have used once in my ten years of ownership.
 
I am officially out of the ladder down club. The red led lights up when the ignition is on and the ladder is down. Thanks goes out to @buckbuck and trace

A few years back I custom ordered a door for under the dash and finally got it installed. It took a dremel cut out bit to cut the hole View attachment 183486View attachment 183487and a dremel sanding cylinder to shape the frame since it came thicker than spec. It also covered up the media shelf that I don't think I have used once in my ten years of ownership.

I like the SeaDek too, how long have you had that?

Was there a thread here for that indicator light, and how to hook it up? I have my front ladder to use as a replacement if needed, but I suspect there could be some other damage to fix as well, if I forgot the rear ladder
 
I like the SeaDek too, how long have you had that?

Was there a thread here for that indicator light, and how to hook it up? I have my front ladder to use as a replacement if needed, but I suspect there could be some other damage to fix as well, if I forgot the rear ladder
I bought the parts a long time ago as the links in the thread for the parts no longer work. For the wiring I bench tested the right wires for on and off, then I installed the magnet and sensor just as described in the thread and once again tested the wires with a multimeter. I then ran the wires to the dash and tapped into the starboard accessory wire. It's the purple one, but I disconnected the switch and used a multimeter to confirm as I went threw the three settings of the keyed switch: off, acc, and start. The port switch does not have an accessory wire so I had to use the starboard. I tapped off ground from the switch as well. Make sure you get the plus and minus connections on the led right as it acts as a diode and won't light up if they are wrong. Easy to swap them if you get it wrong. I used 14gauge T-taps to connect to the ignition wires and the rest of the circuit is 18guage. There is very minimal current in the circuit due to the LED.
 
I like the SeaDek too, how long have you had that?
I think it was 2013 when I installed the complete seadek kit from @JetBoatPilot. It's one of my favorite mods. I literally have not touched it in 9 years. It's due for a good cleaning as the white has turned to grey, the light grey -> dark grey, and the dark grey to an even darker grey. I just power washed the rear hatch and you can definitely see the difference. In this picture of my daughter surfing you can see the back hatch and the lower step compared to the upper step. 9 years of dirt but it never looked bad. I chose the snow camo for 3 reasons. Matches my boat colors, doesn't show dirt (until you wash only a part of it), and hides dings very well. 20220717_160956.jpg I don't think they make this pattern anymore but they might make something similar.
 
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