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Ok. Wait no more. Here is the final setup. The bolts are 18-8 stainless. M6 is not available in 303 stainless. So hopefully they'll stand up to salt water. If you keep them lubed, I don't see an issue.
316 stainless is the better marine salt water grade. Mcmaster 90269A552 is M6-25 with .08 (coarse thread). 90269A564 is fine thread. Super expensive in black oxide, though. 90269A548 fine in regular finish. 90269A145 regular finish coarse thread. Still super expensive. Allen head. I wouldn't worry about the 18-8 (analogous to 304) though--it should be fine going in and out of the water. Its air that gives the stainless its rust fighting capabilities.
Anyone tried a clevis pin there instead of the bolt? Just ordered some SS pin assortment, but thinking that a clevis pin a) might let me fit it downward with the TV's (I have the same as OP, with the same issue of the TV's blocking the original bolt...), and b) a clevis pin would be much more handy when pulling the pump.
Anyone tried a clevis pin there instead of the bolt? Just ordered some SS pin assortment, but thinking that a clevis pin a) might let me fit it downward with the TV's (I have the same as OP, with the same issue of the TV's blocking the original bolt...), and b) a clevis pin would be much more handy when pulling the pump.
I'm not sure how much stress those bolts get, but there seems to be less material for the head of the clevis pin, both thickness and diameter, and the cotter pin would seem to be less material keeping everything secured
All those points may be fine, with some measurements of the clevis pin, and if the cotter pin is stainless too. It just seems less secure than a nut/bolt combo to me. Losing that clevis pin because the cotter pin broke for some reason would suck, even though it seems like it would be difficult to impossible for it to happen