Water in Motor

[IN2H2O]

I have a MR-1 (new to me 2008 232) and I've been trying to chase down why my pisser's are not pissing water overboard on one of the motors. I ended up clamping the Y fitting as if I was being towed and ran the motor on the hose for a few minutes to see if the water would build pressure and start going overboard. It never did so I shut it off and have been chasing lines all day.

Just moments ago I Ient to check compression and getting 200 psi in each cylinder and then cylinder 3 pumps 250psi. Pull the gauge out and it has beads of water on it. I put the other 3 plugs in and idled the motor to try and push as much water out as possible. After about 20 seconds no more water seemed to be coming back out. I checked compression and it's now 200psi. I unclamped the vice grip at the y fitting. I put the #3 plug back in and now I'm idealing on the hose trying to drive moisture out. Not sure what else I should do? [USERGROUP=9]@HELP[/USERGROUP]

 

[Betik]

People who are more knowledgeable than me will chime in, but in the meantime you should get ready for multiple oil changes. And you need to do that very quickly.
Your oil is probably milky and you need to get rid of that ASAP

 

[IN2H2O]

Yup, oil is milky

 

[sunbyrned]

In case someone doesn’t reply with helpful information soon, type in Milky Oil (or other phrases) in the search tool and read about what others have done. I know timing is very important to get the water out and how to do it is pretty well documented in this forum. You just have to search.

 

[AZMark]

You definitely need to change the oil ASAP.

Is running on the hose the only reason you got water in the motor? I can’t tell from your description if anything is actually wrong with the motor or not. The pissers don’t put out much or any water when running on the hose but they should be strong when on the lake.

Always start the motor first, then the hose. When you shut down turn off the hose and then the motor. The hose pressure can push water through the exhaust into the cylinders.

 

[IN2H2O]

When y'all say asap do I need to take off work tomorrow or can it sit for a day? Would running it at lunch to cycle it around help extend a few hours?

Im not getting water to piss when running on the lake.but the boat is new to me. Oil looked brand new when I first got it for this motor. The other motor was slightly black. More details here if interested.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/locating-a-blocked-cooling-passage.32841

I mainly made this thread to insure any immediate action due to finding water in cylinder 3 such as warm motor up and like you guys suggested change oil. If it's going to take a few cycles do in change the oil filter as well or just let it drain out until final oil change?

 

[Betik]

ASAP in this case is like today, but I cannot tell you if you should take a day off tomorrow. If you are a surgeon and have and lives depends on your hands then f**k the boat. Also if you taking a day off from work makes you look bad at work then you have to wait. If your job does bot care when you take off then he’ll yes take the day off.

Note: you should be able to do this in the evening. It should take you like 1 hour to take do an oil change .

BTW I am not so sure what is happing withy our engine, but either you are very lucky or something sounds odd. Let’s go with oil changes ( which are cheap) and then we can figure out the rest .....

 

[sunbyrned]

Hopefully others with experience will chime in soon. From what I gather though, the sooner the better, and it will take more than one change to get it looking clean. I’m not going to give advice since I’m not experienced at this but getting all the oil out ASAP is important. I think you will also need to pull the spark plugs and crank the engine to spit water out of the valves, but that’s only by recollection. Don’t do that until someone with knowledge chimes in.

 

[Cambo]

If you drain the oil do it from the back of the motor there is a drain bolt that will let out all of the oil . Search for info of how to drain all the oil from an MR1 . The pissers not pissing water could be caused from bugs making nests in the tube . This would happen to my old boat every year unless I put golf tees in the holes . Follow the hose to the thermostat disconnect put a fitting on the hose and slowly turn the water on and hopefully it blows out a wad of bug nests. For the water in the oil my friends issue was the exhaust manifold had a breach allowing water into the cylinder . If its the port motor this can be checked without removing the motor

 

[zipper]

Have you tried sticking a piece of weed wacker string or a long thin zip tie in the thru hull. It could be plugged with mud dobbers. That happened to me once, both pissers. If the engine works with all the plugs in, then maybe a head gasket or exhaust issue if you are still getting water in the cylinder. The pissers will not put out much water, if any at idle, It may need some RPM's and good water pressure to push out. Did/Are you getting any temperature alarms.

Edit: Complete oil change. https://jetboaters.net/threads/oil-change-on-mr-1-how-to-perform-a-complete-drain.3805/

 

[IN2H2O]

unfortunately pisser lines are not clogged. This was the firs thing I checked. Thanks for the oil change link

 

[Julian]

Sorry if this is a basic question, but when you ran the engines on the hose did you ever have the hose running while the engines were not? With the pump water intake camped off, you risk flooding the engine much more quickly.

Yes--you want to change the oil as soon as you can.

 

[IN2H2O]

I did start the motor first before water and water was off first before turning engine off. Planning on taking an extended lunch break and make a couple oil changes today

 

[Scottintexas]

I wouldn't do to many oil changes, just enough to get the most of the moisture out, I think you've got internal problems,

Am I remembering correctly,

you just bought this boat,
the water trial - you checked the oil before the trial, engine ran fine during the water test
now we find out the oil looked brand new in that engine while the other engine had black oil,

this leads me to believe the previous owner new of the problem, had changed the oil and not run the engine until your test ride,

I think you should plan on at least pulling the exhaust manifold to look for cracks in the cooling passages,



.

 

[Cambo]

These motors also had rare issues with cracked blocks . Hope its a simple fix if you don't drain the oil from the bolt in the back it takes about 5 oil changes to get the oil clean .

 

[zipper]

That method is the way I do it too. I aquired a make up mirror somewhere and cut off a 1 gallon jug.



One engine...



Both.

 

[Scottintexas]

how high is the milky oil level on the dipstick?

This would help determine just how much water was sent into the engine/block,

I would drain the oil, if you can get to the drain plug on the back that would be best, change the oil, run the engine without the hose for a 2 minutes to circulate the new oil and change again and run again for two minutes without water, if the oil was anywhere near "good" I would then start looking for your leak,

also it has been said to add a pint of ATF to the new oil and it will help absorb the moisture,



.