FSH 210 Sport
Jetboaters Fleet Admiral
- Messages
- 7,544
- Reaction score
- 9,424
- Points
- 522
- Location
- Tranquility Base
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2020
- Boat Model
- FSH Sport
- Boat Length
- 21
So on my recent trip to Lake Mohave, on the last day when I pulled the boat for the last time I noticed some marks in the gel coat and was like what the hell is that? I do not have a picture with the roller still installed but I have this one.

What cause that was this..

The bow roller bolt hole elongated enough to allow the bow to hit the steel when I was loading the boat.. I’ve towed my boat a long ways over the past 4 & 3/4 years, at least 30,000 miles, so I guess that high quality steel.. “poor soul, its just too high strung and couldn’t handle the stress” as Doc would say. So another gel coat repair to add to the list.. but in the short term it needed to be fixed. By the way, its interesting that one side deformed so much..
So off to the hardware store where I met my friend and he laid out a plan, my plan was to weld in a steel bushing, but he made a good point in that in changing the temper of this steel it might become brittle, so went with his plan. His plan was 1/2” ID bronze bushings that had a 3/4 OD. This meant I’d have to enlarge the holes in the tower area..

Drilled out the ears with a 3/4” bit and made sure the bushings would fit in the hole.. Also drilled out the Stolz bow roller components, had to enlarge them a bit with a file and a rotary bit to get the bushings to slide in them easily since the new set up would have the rollers rotating over the bushings.

For the bells we used a step 1/2” x 3/4” busing with a washer under the step to provide support..



While it is hard to see, there are washers on either side of the center roller and no washers between the bells and the steel.

Had to buy a 1/2” x 7” bolt at the hardware store to make the new set up work.. I’ll get a stainless steel bolt off of amazon or something.

All in all it turned out pretty good and I’m back in business. I saw a pic once of a guy who had put a boat buckle directly under the bow eye to provide just enough support to keep the bow from hopping off of bow rollers during travel.. think I’ll give that a long look.


What cause that was this..

The bow roller bolt hole elongated enough to allow the bow to hit the steel when I was loading the boat.. I’ve towed my boat a long ways over the past 4 & 3/4 years, at least 30,000 miles, so I guess that high quality steel.. “poor soul, its just too high strung and couldn’t handle the stress” as Doc would say. So another gel coat repair to add to the list.. but in the short term it needed to be fixed. By the way, its interesting that one side deformed so much..
So off to the hardware store where I met my friend and he laid out a plan, my plan was to weld in a steel bushing, but he made a good point in that in changing the temper of this steel it might become brittle, so went with his plan. His plan was 1/2” ID bronze bushings that had a 3/4 OD. This meant I’d have to enlarge the holes in the tower area..

Drilled out the ears with a 3/4” bit and made sure the bushings would fit in the hole.. Also drilled out the Stolz bow roller components, had to enlarge them a bit with a file and a rotary bit to get the bushings to slide in them easily since the new set up would have the rollers rotating over the bushings.

For the bells we used a step 1/2” x 3/4” busing with a washer under the step to provide support..



While it is hard to see, there are washers on either side of the center roller and no washers between the bells and the steel.

Had to buy a 1/2” x 7” bolt at the hardware store to make the new set up work.. I’ll get a stainless steel bolt off of amazon or something.

All in all it turned out pretty good and I’m back in business. I saw a pic once of a guy who had put a boat buckle directly under the bow eye to provide just enough support to keep the bow from hopping off of bow rollers during travel.. think I’ll give that a long look.

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