Easiest way to add/amplify music at the helm

[Drift Away]

I spent the afternoon making some changes to the boat, including beginning the process of installing mid cabin speakers. Since I was hoping to install them in the mid cabin inserts I spent a long time measuring and checking depths before I drilled a 5" hole. My first step was to remove the cup holder near where I wanted to install the speaker and measured the depth to the outer wall. This measurement scared the crap out of me as it was about 3" to the edge of the cupholder to the out hull wall and there was about 1" between the cupholder and the insert wall (so only 2" of speaker clearance).
View attachment 51591
Not convinced yet, I removed part of the wall in the changing room and took some measurements there. These measurements showed there was 3.5" of clearance (the cupholder is much lower...so the clearance is less)
View attachment 51590

Since I could see behind the coving from this vantage point, I could see that there was likely enough room, so I took the advice someone earlier in this thread suggested and I drilled a tiny hole and stuck a wire in there. This measurement also read at 3.5".
View attachment 51592

I could also see where the wire came through from the storage closet view, and my only concern was one of the longer screws through the rub rail, so I attempted to mount the speaker as high as I could to avoid the rub rail more. At this point I decided to take the plunge as the JLs I was planning on installing needed 2 7/8 depth. So out came the hole saw and drilling began! Once I was through, of course one of the screws was very close to the back of the speaker....so I cut it off.

Here you can see the distance to the screw:
View attachment 51593

After this, I test fit the speaker again, and all looked good!
View attachment 51594

So I finished installing the speaker and here is the end result:
View attachment 51595

View attachment 51596

I'm very happy with the results, and now just need to go through the same process for the other side. Of course I will likely double and triple check the clearances on the other side as well! And the dealer said it wouldn't fit!

I'm waiting for wire to arrive to connect the Wetsounds amp then I'll know how they sound!

Very nice set up. I wanted to mount mine there but did not have the stones to cut a 5" hole there. Still not sure why yamaha dont just come with JL. Id say 90% of us who upgrade the stero go with JL.

 

[skrip345]

Sweet. Good job @Julian glad to see they fit. Mine come in Wednesday and I will be following suit. The white looks good. Makes me second guess my decision to go with the titanium colored ones. Oh well we will see.

 

[OperationROL]

Very nice @Julian !

 

[redthumper9]

@Mainah @David Analog and other stereo/electronics gurus.....can I connect the remote turn cable on my new amp to the remote turn on plug on the existing amp? IE piggy back on the one wire?

Be careful @Julian...... You can do this but anytime I added more than one item that would be running of the turn on lead, I went ahead and added a relay. I've seen the remote circuit of many head units burn out this way.

 

[Julian]

Be careful @Julian...... You can do this but anytime I added more than one item that would be running of the turn on lead, I went ahead and added a relay. I've seen the remote circuit of many head units burn out this way.

I wouldn't know a relay if it bite me! Any hints on this would be appreciated!

Also...I'd love to find a simple 50amp in line fuse I could screw 4awg cable into on both sides! Tired of crimping ring connectors on...I can't be the only one that is!

 

[Drift Away]

I wouldn't know a relay if it bite me! Any hints on this would be appreciated!

Also...I'd love to find a simple 50amp in line fuse I could screw 4awg cable into on both sides! Tired of crimping ring connectors on...I can't be the only one that is!

I am pretty sure that exactly what I had in my boat. My toes in the shop right now getting the GPS put in our I'd take a picture of it but I know for a fact I'm running two separate 4 AWG wires with inline fuses I'm pretty sure they're from stinger

 

[Nick Hughes]

Has anyone tried fitting either the Polks or JL MX650s in the mid cabin where @fraserjr did on specifically a 2015 LTDE? @Mainah think its possible? I'm about to pull the trigger on ordering 8 MX650s, 1 IB sub and 2 amps. I'd really like the speakers higher, but not sure i have the ballz, even drilling a small pilot checking depth. And even if someone has done this, how are the tolerances from 1 boat to the next of the exact same year/model? Worst case add a 1" spacer? Would anyone notice?

 

[Julian]

Has anyone tried fitting either the Polks or JL MX650s in the mid cabin where @fraserjr did on specifically a 2015 LTDE?

Not sure I've seen anyone do this on a 2015 242 Limited (S)--and it does take some fortitude to cut a 5" hole in your boat!!! I spent probably 2 hours crawling all around and measuring and remeasuring before I took the plunge. My fall back was....I am pretty certain there is 2.5" clearance at least....so the worst case for me was a 1/2" spacer.

So my recommendation would be to do what I did:

1. Measure from the cup holder below it.
2. Measure from your mark 9 eyeball from the storage closet back
3. drill a tiny hole and measure from there

Then pull out the old hole saw and have at it!!!!

I have only done one side thus far, but I will go through a similar process for the other side....but a little less anal!

 

[Mainah]

My .02 is that I am going to drill 5 inch diamter holes in the same spot as @Julian using the same method. I will have on hand a pair of Polk MM 6.5 and a pair of JL mx 650 if the 650 fit then great if not then I will use the Polks there and the 650 will go on the swim deck. One could always uses some led light rings for a spacer. I will do a few things differently is I am going to add lateral support between the combing and outer hull using aluminum. I am also going to make backing rings out of 3/4 HDPE.

My big question after looking at @Julian photos again is where the heck is the link to the trash can that fits so well and why the heck has he been holding out on us (or did I miss it)? I want to get the exact same one and wrap it in some carbon fiber 3m film that I have hanging around from a truck dash mod that did not work out.

 

[Nick Hughes]

My .02 is that I am going to drill 5 inch diamter holes in the same spot as @Julian using the same method. I will have on hand a pair of Polk MM 6.5 and a pair of JL mx 650 if the 650 fit then great if not then I will use the Polks there and the 650 will go on the swim deck. One could always uses some led light rings for a spacer. I will do a few things differently is I am going to add lateral support between the combing and outer hull using aluminum. I am also going to make backing rings out of 3/4 HDPE.

My big question after looking at @Julian photos again is where the heck is the link to the trash can that fits so well and why the heck has he been holding out on us (or did I miss it)? I want to get the exact same one and wrap it in some carbon fiber 3m film that I have hanging around from a truck dash mod that did not work out.

Good point, thats a solid trash can fit and finish. Linky please. Let me know when you drill, I'm still over a month before I bring my boat to the house to do the winter mods.

 

[Mainah]

I am still over a month away before I can unwrap or move my boat. Even once the feet of snow and snowplow banks melt it will still be too soft in my back yard to yank it out of there. We have this season here in Maine we less than affectionately call mud season. The length of which is determined by how much snow has to melt, how much rain we get, and how much wind we get. So far based on the first part of the equation I may have to suffer not doing mods for much longer than temperatures will allow.

 

[fraserjr]

I spent the afternoon making some changes to the boat, including beginning the process of installing mid cabin speakers. Since I was hoping to install them in the mid cabin inserts I spent a long time measuring and checking depths before I drilled a 5" hole. My first step was to remove the cup holder near where I wanted to install the speaker and measured the depth to the outer wall. This measurement scared the crap out of me as it was about 3" to the edge of the cupholder to the out hull wall and there was about 1" between the cupholder and the insert wall (so only 2" of speaker clearance).
View attachment 51591
Not convinced yet, I removed part of the wall in the changing room and took some measurements there. These measurements showed there was 3.5" of clearance (the cupholder is much lower...so the clearance is less)
View attachment 51590

Since I could see behind the coving from this vantage point, I could see that there was likely enough room, so I took the advice someone earlier in this thread suggested and I drilled a tiny hole and stuck a wire in there. This measurement also read at 3.5".
View attachment 51592

I could also see where the wire came through from the storage closet view, and my only concern was one of the longer screws through the rub rail, so I attempted to mount the speaker as high as I could to avoid the rub rail more. At this point I decided to take the plunge as the JLs I was planning on installing needed 2 7/8 depth. So out came the hole saw and drilling began! Once I was through, of course one of the screws was very close to the back of the speaker....so I cut it off.

Here you can see the distance to the screw:
View attachment 51593

After this, I test fit the speaker again, and all looked good!
View attachment 51594

So I finished installing the speaker and here is the end result:
View attachment 51595

View attachment 51596

I'm very happy with the results, and now just need to go through the same process for the other side. Of course I will likely double and triple check the clearances on the other side as well! And the dealer said it wouldn't fit!

I'm waiting for wire to arrive to connect the Wetsounds amp then I'll know how they sound!

The white looks great with that seat color combination!

 

[fraserjr]

Has anyone tried fitting either the Polks or JL MX650s in the mid cabin where @fraserjr did on specifically a 2015 LTDE? @Mainah think its possible? I'm about to pull the trigger on ordering 8 MX650s, 1 IB sub and 2 amps. I'd really like the speakers higher, but not sure i have the ballz, even drilling a small pilot checking depth. And even if someone has done this, how are the tolerances from 1 boat to the next of the exact same year/model? Worst case add a 1" spacer? Would anyone notice?

They also have 1/2" spacers. I bought a set of two just in case I needed them. These were the ones I got:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ITN4IR6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would cut into a piece of cardboard and use the spacer to see how it would look. I would think you would hardly notice the 1/2". I guess at that point it depends how much having the speakers higher matters to you.

 

[Julian]

My big question after looking at @Julian photos again is where the heck is the link to the trash can that fits so well and why the heck has he been holding out on us (or did I miss it)? I want to get the exact same one and wrap it in some carbon fiber 3m film that I have hanging around from a truck dash mod that did not work out.

I never posted about this trash can as it actually hasn't worked out as well as I would have liked. The lid is loose and comes off to easily, and the strange part is the flip top is so light that the swirling wind created when driving actually opens up the lid and allows light loose garbage (like paper napkins) to get sucked out too! I MAY try adding a weight to the bottom of the lid....or just find a different one! I did have to make some mods to it to make it fit...I'll post that is a more pertinent thread.

 

[swatski]

I am going to add lateral support between the combing and outer hull using aluminum.

@Mainah that is a very good idea and I want to see what you come up with.

I would be mindful of @McMark experience with a bulkhead divider (plywood piece inside that gunnel compartment) causing substantial damage to the hull (bulging from the inside and cracking gelcoat).
Checkout post #19 pictures in this thread:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/dropped-my-boat-at-the-glass-shop-over-the-weekend.10277/#post-179871
To me, it was an eye opener, as I had a similar issue with my 240 which I managed to resolve before any damage occurred to gelcoat, thanks to @McMark very useful post.
Also reminded me that in my 190 a subwoofer installed inside the helm compartment putting extremely light pressure at an extremely low angle was enough to cause a visible bulge on the outside of the hull. I could not believe it as the box was mounted and was not moving or bouncing around.

Basically, the FRP hulls are light and thin, and appear to be very delicate. Spreading pressure points over large surface is a must with any in-hull installs that came in contact w/the shell.

--

 

[Mainah]

@swatski - Thanks for the heads up. @Julian I will be curious as to how much deflection you get on the black combing or on the outer hull when those new mx 650s are turned up. Did you notice how that black panel is secured to the rest of the hull? @fraserjr have you noticed any deflection in the wall where you mounted the speakers when they are playing? Did you notice how the panels are secured to the rest of the hull?

Speakers should not be mounted anywhere you can make flex with your hand. They need very solid support.

 

[Julian]

@swatski - Thanks for the heads up. @Julian I will be curious as to how much deflection you get on the black combing or on the outer hull when those new mx 650s are turned up. Did you notice how that black panel is secured to the rest of the hull? @fraserjr have you noticed any deflection in the wall where you mounted the speakers when they are playing? Did you notice how the panels are secured to the rest of the hull?

Speakers should not be mounted anywhere you can make flex with your hand. They need very solid support.

It was pretty solid when I was pressing the hole saw against the panel. Also, I expect it will be more rigid closer to the top edge (where I mounted it) vs centered in the panel. I'll let you know once all the parts arrive that will allow me to connect the new amp to them. The fiberglass/gelcoat looks to be about 1/4 in thick

 

[fraserjr]

@swatski - Thanks for the heads up. @Julian I will be curious as to how much deflection you get on the black combing or on the outer hull when those new mx 650s are turned up. Did you notice how that black panel is secured to the rest of the hull? @fraserjr have you noticed any deflection in the wall where you mounted the speakers when they are playing? Did you notice how the panels are secured to the rest of the hull?

Speakers should not be mounted anywhere you can make flex with your hand. They need very solid support.

It was pretty solid when I was pressing the hole saw against the panel. Also, I expect it will be more rigid closer to the top edge (where I mounted it) vs centered in the panel. I'll let you know once all the parts arrive that will allow me to connect the new amp to them. The fiberglass/gelcoat looks to be about 1/4 in thick

When I was using the hole saw I was pushing pretty damn hard and didn't notice the panel flexing at all. I just went and checked the hole that I cut out and it is 1/4" thick and seems solid. I had the speakers cranked pretty loud this past weekend and didn't notice anything but I will check a little more closely the next time I get the cover off.

 

[skrip345]

Would a starboard backing ring in the gunwale side help distribute the stress the black panel would have? Hopefully my speakers make it in today.

 

[Julian]

Would a starboard backing ring in the gunwale side help distribute the stress the black panel would have? Hopefully my speakers make it in today.

I suppose it might, but this panel isn't much bigger than some of the other ones in which speakers are already mounted....like the cabin speakers, or the sub on my boat. I'll be installing my amp this weekend and will crank it up and see how much that panel moves (if I can get video I will).