Drip irrigation filters

[WREKS]

Has anyone tried installing drip irrigation filters to keep sediment from entering cooling system?

 

[Julian]

Perhaps add a link to what you are referring to.

I have a drip irrigation zone with no filter, but my drip zone doesnt move a lot of water....so I wonder what the capacity of such a filter would be.

My other concern is I would want to have some way of knowing what the flow rate is, to know if I'm starving the engines. Engine temp gauges would be nice!!!

 

[haknslash]

Indmar makes a strainer which doubles as a flush port for our Raptor engines.

Strainer Pro - Indmar Products

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www.indmar.com

Perhaps something similar or heck even the same piece could be used for the Yamaha boats. Of course you would need two for twin engine boats.

 

[tdonoughue]

I like it.

No idea where I would put it in our setup, but I like it. Anyone have any ideas on that front?

 

[WREKS]

Indmar makes a strainer which doubles as a flush port for our Raptor engines.

Strainer Pro - Indmar Products

Request Test Drive Mail sent successfully. Enter your comment SEND

www.indmar.com

Perhaps something similar or heck even the same piece could be used for the Yamaha boats. Of course you would need two for twin engine boats.

Thanks for the feedback. There is also one available at RIVA Water Filter/Strainer.

 

[Cambo]

There are almost no cases that I can remember of clogged water lines . If you install that filter it could get blocked and cause an issue .The pissers seem to get blocked by bugs nesting . If you are really concerned install an in line water temperature gauge . The pump has a filter and it seems to work what can over heat the motors is cavitation when the water is filled with air bubbles it losses a lot of the cooling capacity , that has been posted numerous times.

 

[WREKS]

I like it.

No idea where I would put it in our setup, but I like it. Anyone have any ideas on that front?

I would install it below the cleanout tray below the clean out hatch. On the 2007 SX230 HO, the cleanout tray is held in place by 22 ss screws. I leave it loose, to gain easy access. It would be a perfect place to install a filter. There is plenty of room.

Perhaps add a link to what you are referring to.

I have a drip irrigation zone with no filter, but my drip zone doesnt move a lot of water....so I wonder what the capacity of such a filter would be.

My other concern is I would want to have some way of knowing what the flow rate is, to know if I'm starving the engines. Engine temp gauges would be nice!!!

Thanks for the quick response, Julian! Sorry for my slow one.

This post is regarding maintenance/overheating issues.

Filters are often used at the start of a drip irrigation system to keep the low flow, low volume heads from getting plugged with sediment. The irrigation water is often taken from a holding pond, so the water is not filtered. www.dripirrigation .com is just one place to look at such filters.

Here are three photos of the of the back an oil cooler cover on a 2007 SX230 HO after two separate one hour excursions in brackish waters where dozens of boats travel throughout the day. Each time the engine was flushed with 80 psi city water for ten minutes. The plate was clean before the boat was launched the first time. The first sequential photo is after a ten minute flush with city water; the next after Dawn dish washing detergent; and the last, after Salt-Away. Hardly anything changed.

Buckbuck's psi/rpm/speed measurements indicate lower flow (low psi) at lower rpms. That indicates to me that it does not take much water to keep theses engines cool. That is at low rpms. Most of my over-heats have been at low rpms. The heat sensors shut the engines down if a problem occurs. I would like to experiment a little and see if this "stuff", whatever it is, can be kept from reaching the engine's cooling system.

 

[WREKS]

The duplication of KIMG1041.JPG was accidental.

 

[BrentEB]

WREKS - are you using a "flush valve" on your engines when on the hose?

 

[WREKS]

WREKS - are you using a "flush valve" on your engines when on the hose?

BrentEB, I am using the hose connections in the boat along with the Salt-Away dispenser.

 

[BrentEB]

BrentEB, I am using the hose connections in the boat along with the Salt-Away dispenser.

To get a good flush on the hose the water inlet line needs to be clamped closed or better yet a valve installed (and closed), otherwise most the flush water and salt-away, detergent, whatever will just flow out the strainer.

 

[WREKS]

Thank you much. I had not thought about that.

 

[BrentEB]

Search for "flush valve" and "tow valve" - lots of picts here.

 

[tdonoughue]

Although, you should, I think, start with such valves open, no? If there is anything clogging the input strainer, you want the backflow across that to flush that out...

 

[WREKS]

The sediment on the back oil cooler cover earlier in this post is much the same as that I have found inside the cylinder water jackets (link below). I pulverized it between my thumb and forefinger to the point where it goes through a 155 mesh screen. There goes my 'drip-filter-it-out-idea'. There is no taste of salt. There was about three times as shown here. I hope this stuff is flushable once the tow/flush valves are installed. Just to clarify: the round cover in the picture is 3 1/4" diameter.

2 new photos · Apr 13 – Jul 31, 2020 📸

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[swatski]

I would totally agree with @Cambo and @BrentEB here. Having recently been a victim of some sort of overheating event/cracked head issue - I will be looking into this very soon, once I settle down after moving across the country.

I believe with Yamaha JB cooling design the more flow the better, I would not want any filters on the water intake, exactly for the reasons @Cambo mentioned.

As far as intake valves - we have been discussing this here for a while, @Gym has those installed for the purpose of flushing with fresh water while wet slipped in salt water - brilliant set up.
My only hesitation there is that unlike w/salt, I have been mostly concerned with silt/grit accumulation and would not like any obstructions in the intakes - it is difficult to design a valve that would cause no obstruction or narrowing of the flow.
I have learned that from messing with my wake surfing ballast system where any changes to reduce hose/valve internal diameter have GREAT effect on reducing the flow (duh..., half a diameter squared is involved, lol).

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[WREKS]

I would totally agree with @Cambo and @BrentEB here. Having recently been a victim of some sort of overheating event/cracked head issue - I will be looking into this very soon, once I settle down after moving across the country.

I believe with Yamaha JB cooling design the more flow the better, I would not want any filters on the water intake, exactly for the reasons @Cambo mentioned.

As far as intake valves - we have been discussing this here for a while, @Gym has those installed for the purpose of flushing with fresh water while wet slipped in salt water - brilliant set up.
My only hesitation there is that unlike w/salt, I have been mostly concerned with silt/grit accumulation and would not like any obstructions in the intakes - it is difficult to design a valve that would cause no obstruction or narrowing of the flow.
I have learned that from messing with my wake surfing ballast system where any changes to reduce hose/valve internal diameter have GREAT effect on reducing the flow (duh..., half a diameter squared is involved, lol).

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How did you determine the head is cracked?

 

[BrentEB]

How did you determine the head is cracked?

Now that's a LONG read! Haha. Also, glad things are better there!

When I got into my engine a few months ago I saw no evidence of sand or sediment in there. Not saying it doesn't happen, just I didn't see it. Both engine screens were clean as new. I'd expect something if it were a problem. And I agree, don't spend time on a filter. The system is designed for raw water feed.