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2023 195s 5/6mph loss

evosteve

Active Member
Messages
18
Reaction score
9
Points
42
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2024
Boat Model
252SE
Boat Length
24
2023 195s a year ago would see 47mph…since this summer haven’t been able to see over 41mph. I’ve changed and checked oil, changed plugs, add a Riva/K&N air filter, intake and impeller seem to be ok and clean, throttle cable good and adjusted properly. Had dealer check for any codes when recalled throttle cable was replaced, none found. Boat does have Cobra jet and Lucky 13 cone, cobra jet was installed early before any mph loss, lucky 13 after loss. Anything I’m missing?
 
Whats the oil level?

Check to make sure the sound insulation in the engine bay close to where the intake is, is fully glued to the bulk heads by tugging on it. There have been several reports of people suffering performance loss due to that sound insulation pulling over the blocking the air intake under full power, but then when its just sitting there the foam looks normal.

If it has a SVHO motor have you checked the tightness of all the hose clamps on the supercharger, intercooler, and where it connects to the throttle body?

Also make sure that the water lines into and out of the intercooler are not kinked.

Cleanliness of the hull? Is your boat wet slipped?

Did the speed loss occur after you had done all that stuff to the boat?
 
Last edited:
Cleanliness of the hull? Is your boat wet slipped?
This right here will decrease top speed. Even if it looks clean I would drag my hand across the portion of the hull that primarily sits in the water and see what it feels like. If it’s not a smooth feel I would acid was it to remove any lime/calcium buildup.
 
Oil level is at the mid mark. I’ve checked there’s no insulation anywhere near the air intake on mine,

all hoses clamps looked good and nothing kinked.

boat is stored in garage on trailer, hull is clean and smooth.
Performance was lost not before the mods

Now, I did beach it twice last summer on a sandy bottom, I’m thinking that could be the issue.
Impeller looks great, any chance Sand running through as it was beached and running through the impeller would’ve caused an issue and how can I check?
 
mating surface of cleanout plug has a noogie.
 
Minimum gap on the impeller to wear ring is .014” on my 155mm pumps, max gap is I believe .028” I’d have to double check on that gap max limit.

Can you hear, feel or see that the pump is cavitating?

If the hull feels smooth then its probably not the beaching.

Perhaps check that the reversing bucket is up all the way when the throttle is advanced?

Did you check / set the gap on the plugs before installation? OEM plugs?

How are you measuring the speed of the boat? If its the water wheel and not gps, get under there and see if you‘ve got some fishing line or something wrapped around the water wheel pivot.
 
Minimum gap on the impeller to wear ring is .014” on my 155mm pumps, max gap is I believe .028” I’d have to double check on that gap max limit.

Can you hear, feel or see that the pump is cavitating?

If the hull feels smooth then its probably not the beaching.

Perhaps check that the reversing bucket is up all the way when the throttle is advanced?

Did you check / set the gap on the plugs before installation? OEM plugs?

How are you measuring the speed of the boat? If its the water wheel and not gps, get under there and see if you‘ve got some fishing line or something wrapped around the water wheel pivot.
My guess is that’s the wear ring.
Speed measured by speedo and gps that’s not off.

Yes I did gap the plugs.

Cavitation didn't seem to be an issue.

I did recently pull out some of the L13 rings to see if that made a difference but that may have added a tiny bit of cavitation at higher rpm/top speed. Going to put the rings back in for next time out.

How long should it take to swap the wear ring? I may go ahead and order one then see if I can get a gap tool and check it before replacing.
 
You need to measure the impeller to wear ring gap first. All you need is feeler gauges to measure the gap. If you have not pulled one of these pumps before it will probably take you two hours or less to R&R the pump. I’m not sure how much time it will take to R&R the wear ring out of the casting. I highly recommend you get a shop / service manual before you do this task, that way you will know what materials you will need in addition to seeing how it comes apart. I have followed the step by step directions that the shop manual shows and it was relatively easy.
 
Minimum
You need to measure the impeller to wear ring gap first. All you need is feeler gauges to measure the gap. If you have not pulled one of these pumps before it will probably take you two hours or less to R&R the pump. I’m not sure how much time it will take to R&R the wear ring out of the casting. I highly recommend you get a shop / service manual before you do this task, that way you will know what materials you will need in addition to seeing how it comes apart. I have followed the step by step directions that the shop manual shows and it was relatively easy.
I will get a set of gauges and check that first. Am I able to check the gap from under the boat without pulling anything?

gap on the impeller to wear ring is .014” on my 155mm pumps, max gap is I believe .028” I’d have to double check on that gap max limit.

Can you hear, feel or see that the pump is cavitating?

If the hull feels smooth then its probably not the beaching.

Perhaps check that the reversing bucket is up all the way when the throttle is advanced?

Did you check / set the gap on the plugs before installation? OEM plugs?

How are you measuring the speed of the boat? If its the water wheel and not gps, get under there and see if you‘ve got some fishing line or something wrapped around the water wheel pivot.
My guess is that’s the wear ring.
Speed measured by speedo and gps that’s not off.

Yes I did gap the plugs.

Cavitation didn't seem to be an issue.

I did recently pull out some of the L13 rings to see if that made a difference but that may have added a tiny bit of cavitation at higher rpm/top speed. Going to put the rings back in for next time out.

How long should it take to swap the wear ring? I may go ahead and order one then see if I can get a gap tool and check it before replacing.
 
You need to measure the impeller to wear ring gap first. All you need is feeler gauges to measure the gap. If you have not pulled one of these pumps before it will probably take you two hours or less to R&R the pump. I’m not sure how much time it will take to R&R the wear ring out of the casting. I highly recommend you get a shop / service manual before you do this task, that way you will know what materials you will need in addition to seeing how it comes apart. I have followed the step by step directions that the shop manual shows and it was relatively easy.
 
I will get a set of gauges and check that first. Am I able to check the gap from under the boat without pulling anything?
 
I will get a set of gauges and check that first. Am I able to check the gap from under the boat without pulling anything?

I would think you can check the gap from underneath, it will just be a bit difficult.

You know a lot of stuff can affect speed on the water.. are you running with the same amount of cargo and fuel in the boat? Just having a full load of fuel vs say a 20% load of fuel can make quite a difference.
 
What RPM's are you getting at wide open throttle? I didnt see that posted.
 
I’d say about 7700
 
What RPMs did you get before the speed issue?
 
All things considered above, have you added any fuel additives, changed octane ratings on the fuel used, been using fuel with ethanol, or perhaps have old fuel?

I use fuel additives over the winter and keep the tank full on my 195s and using that fuel even with the additives “seems” to underperform on that tank in the spring compared to a full tank of fresh fuel. I usually run that tank out, put fresh fuel in it and then change the plugs.

probably not the solution but I thought I would throw it out there.
 
What RPMs did you get before the speed issue?
I believe the same RPM’s, I’ll check the impeller wear ring this weekend
All things considered above, have you added any fuel additives, changed octane ratings on the fuel used, been using fuel with ethanol, or perhaps have old fuel?

I use fuel additives over the winter and keep the tank full on my 195s and using that fuel even with the additives “seems” to underperform on that tank in the spring compared to a full tank of fresh fuel. I usually run that tank out, put fresh fuel in it and then change the plugs.

probably not the solution but I thought I would throw it out there.
No additives and fuel is good, have run many fresh tanks of 93 with same issue
 
I believe the same RPM’s, I’ll check the impeller wear ring this weekend
If it was impeller or wear ring your RPM's would be higher then before.
 
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