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Miscellaneous questions/issues after our maiden voyage

Got back from our second trip today and this time when flushing, water came out of both spouts! My wife told me that last time I had tried to flush she was in the shower. So, apparenty it's another non-issue.
 
I do have a new issue. I tried using the raw water wash down for the first time today and wasn't getting anything out. I did check the valve, it was open. I guess first thing to check is if the hose for the spigot is even clear. I wasn't able to blow through it so I'm guessing it's not clear.
 
I do have a new issue. I tried using the raw water wash down for the first time today and wasn't getting anything out. I did check the valve, it was open. I guess first thing to check is if the hose for the spigot is even clear. I wasn't able to blow through it so I'm guessing it's not clear.
Another non-issue. The sprayer nozzle was sealed shut. I was able to break it loose.
 
Regarding your no flow or low flow, if you pinch off the hose by the Y-connector, you will get a more complete flush or flow through your system.

Regarding all the rest, I sent a message to @FSH 210 Sport for some responses or answers to complete things, or close the loop for you
 
Regarding your no flow or low flow, if you pinch off the hose by the Y-connector, you will get a more complete flush or flow through your system.

Regarding all the rest, I sent a message to @FSH 210 Sport for some responses or answers to complete things, or close the loop for you
So you will want to pinch off the hose behind the Y connector where the flush hose and the main cooling water hose comes in.. mind you, you will not be flushing out that line back to the jet pump but this makes a dramatic difference in the amount of water that flows through the engine.. much more water will come out the pilot water outlet which is coming from the oil cooler.. so very important especially if you were in salt water.

You want to apply the pinch off where the red arrow is pointing .. disregard the yellow mark ups that is from another post. You should have room to slide that alligator protected back and put your clamp there.. I just did mine there when I was decontaminating my boat from a recent trip.

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So, on your live well inlet.. there is a little black lever on the inlet fitting that is a valve.. has anyone checked to make sure that is fully open? That inlet director also spins off..

If it is the original live well pump it could either be bad, or there is debris clogging the inlet, this is tough to check as the boat sits on the inlet while its on the trailer.. did you try manipulating the sea cock for the live well inlet while it was running to see if it made a difference?

I see that you have a different trailer than stock….. Can you see the thru hull on the bottom for the live well pick up? Also if your moving too fast the live well will not pull water in as it does not have a high speed pick up.
 
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Yea the pump was replaced. The full story on that is...

In the maintenance records I saw that the pump had been had replaced. The salesman told me it was because the original had stopped working. Then when we showed up for a test ride, the salesman told me that when he took the boat out before we got there (to make sure everything was running good) the live well pump wasn't working. Due to that, we never tested the live well on the test ride. I told him if they got the pump figured out, we'd be good to buy the boat. He called me later that day and said the service guys put the boat in the water and the pump was actually already working (despite him originally telling us it wasn't working for him). I took his word for it, bought the boat, and the pump just trickles water out.
The live well does not fill super fast, so a picture would be helpful, a video better of the flow, and a good picture of the live well fill pump itself. The oem fill pump is a Tsunami and I’m not sure what gph it is, are very easy to swap out once you can get to it. I want to make sure it’s the same pump in the first place, and I want you to take the pump out and get use a picture of the vanes.. If it is the oem tsunami pump, push down on the red tab and unscrew the motor and the vanes from the base and make sure the vanes look symmetrical at the very least.
 
Your bilge pump activity is extremely excessive for thed length of time you were out and when you were cruising.

I think @zipper mentioned the anchor locker, I agree, look in my signature for a link to the anchor locker drain fix.

Most of the water, 95%-100% will be coming in through the clean out tray not being sealed up while underway. I think we addressed this in another thread? Apply seal and peel after the tray is installed.

Then makes me think about the live well fill rate, I think it was @zipper who mentioned something about the possibility of a leak in this system into the bilge…. So you’re going to have first check the fittings in the live well for tightness, if they’re loose you’ll need to pull the clean out tray and get back up in there to tighten them. You may be able to reach some of them through the cup holder on the transom.
 
Regarding your no flow or low flow, if you pinch off the hose by the Y-connector, you will get a more complete flush or flow through your system.
Sorry to have you spend the time replying to this, but the no/low flow is a non-issue now. It turned out my wife was actually doing laundry/showering while I was trying to flush the motors, which created a low flow for me at the hose outside. During my next flush, when no one was using water in the house, I had water coming out of both spouts for the motors.

So, on your live well inlet.. there is a little black lever on the inlet fitting that is a valve.. has anyone checked to make sure that is fully open? That inlet director also spins off..
Yes I found that little black lever and ensured it was open. I also spun off the inlet director to ensure there were no clogs at that point.

If it is the original live well pump it could either be bad
It's not the original - it's a replacement from the dealer, during the period where the previous owner owned the boat.

or there is debris clogging the inlet
I held a garden hose up to the inlet director and let water flow backwards through the live well piping, to backflush it all, so I would think if there was debris clogged in the pump or inlet back flushing would have resolved it, which it did not.

did you try manipulating the sea cock for the live well inlet while it was running to see if it made a difference?
I did not. I did at least confirm that the sea cock is in the correct position. I tried to spin it, but I'm actually not able to spin it. Now that I'm typing this I'm realizing maybe that DOES mean there is something clogged in the sea cock, blocking the flow of water and stopping me from being able to spin it? I guess it's possible, but, confuses me if it is, because like I mentioned above back flushing worked. I would think if the sea cock/hose area was blocked with debris it wouldn't backflush either.

I see that you have a different trailer than stock….. Can you see the thru hull on the bottom for the live well pick up?
I can't see it, it's blocked by the bunk.

Also if your moving too fast the live well will not pull water in as it does not have a high speed pick up.
I was not moving when I tried to fill it. I was sitting still.

The live well does not fill super fast, so a picture would be helpful
Possibly a non-issue because the boat is at the dealer currently for keel repair and they've agreed to look at the live well since it was supposed to be working when they sold me the boat.

The oem fill pump is a Tsunami
My pump is not OEM but I'm not sure what pump it is at the moment. If this becomes a problem in the future, after I get the boat back, I can dive deeper into this.

Your bilge pump activity is extremely excessive for thed length of time you were out and when you were cruising.
And then of course this last time we just went out the bilge never kicked on. Despite this, when we got back to the ramp, when I opened the drain plug on the ramp water drained out for a minute or two. This is something I will have to keep an eye on and pay more attention to as we continue to use the boat.

Next time we go out I will not put the drain plug in until we're on the ramp so that I can be 100% sure all water is drained out of the boat before our outing. Keeping note of if the bilge pump comes on or not, in combination with seeing how much water collected after our trip is over, in combination with checking the engine bay throughout the trip, checking hose fittings, peeking into the cleanout tray, etc... to try and see if it's obvious where water is coming from, should help. I just need to have some time with it.

Most of the water, 95%-100% will be coming in through the clean out tray not being sealed up while underway. I think we addressed this in another thread? Apply seal and peel after the tray is installed.
Yes, we spoke about this elsewhere. I already purchased Seal n' Peel, I'm just waiting for the live well pump fiasco to be 100% resolved first, before sealing up the cleanout tray.

It's all coming along. I'm eating the elephant one bite at a time - I just can't eat any more until I get the boat back from the dealer. They're waiting for the weather to warm a little so they can have a proper hull temperature before using the 2 part epoxy.
 
So, if the live well pump is not the original that could very well be the issue.. just not enough pump. Just use your 5 gallon bucket and dip it in the water and fill the live well up and be done quickly, should take about 5-6 bucket fulls of water to fill it. Then you can use the pump to keep it topped off.

Okay you say you cannot manipulate the sea cock for the live well fill, there very well could be something stuck up in there. Yeah maybe you got water to come out when you back flushed it, but you do not know what it should look like. @Adrian @ JB Solutions do you remember what size the aerator or live well fill pumps are in terms of gph?

Its usually to leave a valve partially closed, and by that I mean, just a bit, that way you can try and turn it either direction if its stuck to relieve it. Thats an old pipe fitter trick, same with the little valves under your sink or the ones that feed the water to the toilet which notoriously get stuck full open.. if they are say 1/2 turn close you can rock them back and forth to break them free.

Adrian had to replace one or both on his 190 fsh he had.

Waiting for the weather to warm up??? They do not have a heated shop they can put it in?

A minutes worth of water draining out is not too bad.. but you’ll get that down to zero in time.
 
So, if the live well pump is not the original that could very well be the issue.. just not enough pump. Just use your 5 gallon bucket and dip it in the water and fill the live well up and be done quickly, should take about 5-6 bucket fulls of water to fill it. Then you can use the pump to keep it topped off.

Okay you say you cannot manipulate the sea cock for the live well fill, there very well could be something stuck up in there. Yeah maybe you got water to come out when you back flushed it, but you do not know what it should look like. @Adrian @ JB Solutions do you remember what size the aerator or live well fill pumps are in terms of gph?

Its usually to leave a valve partially closed, and by that I mean, just a bit, that way you can try and turn it either direction if its stuck to relieve it. Thats an old pipe fitter trick, same with the little valves under your sink or the ones that feed the water to the toilet which notoriously get stuck full open.. if they are say 1/2 turn close you can rock them back and forth to break them free.

Adrian had to replace one or both on his 190 fsh he had.

Waiting for the weather to warm up??? They do not have a heated shop they can put it in?

A minutes worth of water draining out is not too bad.. but you’ll get that down to zero in time.
Atwood Tsunami T500 (500gph) for both
 
Thanks Adrian!
Adding to this…. That pump is sold in a bunch of different housings. Buy the cheapest one you can find and just take it out of the housing.
 
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