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I've only heard of it on 2010 1.8l engines which may limit it to the 240 series for that year. I suspect but not sure if it also impacts early 2011 models.
I've only heard of it on 2010 1.8l engines which may limit it to the 240 series for that year. I suspect but not sure if it also impacts early 2011 models.
I have a 2011 AR240 and confirmed that it is an earlier style cooler (same as the 2010). My understanding is that in some part of the 2011 production, Yamaha switched to the new oil cooler and bolts. I check min after each outing and monitor the engine bay for any signs of oil. Everything has been good so far, but I still have less than 100 hours on the boat. What is the thought of replacing the bolt proactively?
So far I have not had any issues and last year I had 275 hours so by now I am over 300 hours. I am sure someday I may have a problem but so far so good. I always look at these threads to be a prepared as possible.
I think I am going to proactively replace the 3rd bolt on each cooler. I went back through the thread but did not see reference to a part # for the replacement bolt or a torque specification. If anyone has this information it would be greatly appreciated. I assume that I can just back the bolt out and replace with the new one? No need for pulling the cooler or replacing seals? Do we know of a scenario where someone has proactively replaced the bolt and still went on to have a problem?
I wouldn't fix anything that is not broken but that's just me. When my coolers were leaking it was between a half quart and a quart a day / weekend. Another observation is that my coolers started leaking after I started using full synthetic oil. The boats original owner used yamalube and when the dealer replaced the coolers they used yama lube , now I've gone back to using yamalube in the boat at least.
I will try and find cap n kevs yjb write up on this. I think he had the specs and sourcing info of the after market bolts he used listed in his write up. he had to mail his coolers in from out of state to his dealer who did the work as I recall.
I think someone here earlier quoted 5 hours at $85 per to replace the bolt. That is outrageous. If the the head is just broken off at the surface you could remove all the bolts to expose the remaining threads on the broken bolt to pull it. If you go that far you will need to replace the oil and may as well replace the seal as well, I think the seals are around $20 (less than the price of a yamaha oil filter). If you just want to replace bolt three and it is not broken, you should be able to do it without replacing the seal or oil in 10 minutes or less on both coolers including torquing to spec.
Referencing the guy who has the boat I'm looking at - the dealer he called quoted him about $150 to extract the broken bolt and about 5 hours labor @ $85/hour. So, about $575. I'm planning on calling them myself tomorrow. The dealer is Chatlee in Sanford, NC, which I really haven't heard a whole lot of good about.
Trust me, you could get the bolt out for much less than the $150 the dealer wants. Hard part is draining the cooler completely of oil. Yamaha recommends taking the boat to the dealer for issues with the cooler. Forgot to mention, I even changed the O rings as well. If your not afraid to get your hands dirty, the whole thing should take no more than an hour.
To Ronnie's point, I just came from the boat show and was talking with the Yamaha mechanics from the local dealer. about the oil cooler issue. He said if it isn't broke, don't touch it. He says he works on many 2010's with hundreds of hours with no issues. Not sure how much I value his opinion, but I found his thoughts interesting.
No clue what they really cost, but I've got to imagine no more than $10 for 2 bolts. Replace those proactively, and you don't have to remove the coolers to extract a broken bolt, which also involves a huge mess and new gaskets. Sounds like really cheap insurance to me.
Here is the link to the yjb page that contains the part numbers for the original and replacement bolt. This appears in the top fourth of this page. It's a very informative read but it is also currently 8 pages long.
I wish anyone dealing with this issue all the luck they can get. IMHO: Yamaha really screwed its customers who had this problem and didn't have a warranty to cover it. By their inaction they have demonstrated that if you have have this problem in the future you are on your own.
I have over 300 hours and have had the boat for five years. I do check regularly for any sign of a problem. From what I can tell there is an issue but not everyone has the issue. This is just based on conversations with my dealer.
Here is the link to the yjb page that contains the part numbers for the original and replacement bolt. This appears in the top fourth of this page. It's a very informative read but it is also currently 8 pages long.
I wish anyone dealing with this issue all the luck they can get. IMHO: Yamaha really screwed its customers who had this problem and didn't have a warranty to cover it. By their inaction they have demonstrated that if you have have this problem in the future you are on your own.
I don't know for sure if the new coolers have larger / stronger bolts but as I recall the new coolers do have a third bolt with a different head and the cooler face has an arrow on it pointing to the third bolt. The original poster of the yjb string, capnkev, did a very thorough write up of what he / his dealer did to address the problem. He was out of warranty so he went the bolt replacement route and researched the crap out of it first.
One thing that sucks about the oil coolers is that Yamaha only sells a few of the components indivudually, like the seal and bolts. If the face needs to be replaced because it is cracked or warped and therefore leaking, the entire assembly needs to be purchased.
If I could do it all over again I would even without the extended warranty but I would proactively replace the bolts rather than hope it wouldn't be a problem. I would also continue to use the same materials that the previous owner did, that is non synthetic lube and oem oil filters.
Just happened to our port side engine on our 2010 242 LS. Found oil in the bilge and took it to the shop. I think I'll have all the bolts replaced proactively.
Just happened to our port side engine on our 2010 242 LS. Found oil in the bilge and took it to the shop. I think I'll have all the bolts replaced proactively.