SOLVED: anyone remove their intake duct (aka: ride plate)?

[CrankyGypsy]

I forgot they rent them.

I'm already committed to both. basically practicing on the non damaged side. plus, I want to polish everything before sealing it and replace the 10year old silicone - had to touch up some missing spots last year.

 

[Seadeals]

I totally get your wanting to just do both. You already have everything else off. After 10 years, some things just need a disassemble, clean and reinstall (assuming nothing is damaged trying to remove). That same logic is why I am considering removing the pump mount plate (you already have off) while doing my transducer install. How hard were they to get off? Like you, the intent is for everything to be like brand new when finished.

 

[Ronnie]

Can you get a piano wire, guitar string or something similar in there to use as an end to end saw blade on the remaining silicone?

 

[CrankyGypsy]

@Ronnie : guitar strings were part of the original attempt. it works for the most part.
i think i am able to cut through at least 80% of the surface area on both sides. it doesn't get all the way through as the silicone heavily gums up and you simply can't apply enough pressure to make the wire completely horizontal at the bottom - there's a hump in the middle. (hard to explain)

@Seadeals : exactly, i want to make sure there are no leaks or cavitation from old silicone that's fallen off.
the pump plate wasn't nearly as hard (it will be very easy if you have help): a metric "Tubular Spanner Box Wrench" will make removing the large nut on the steering cable easy - you can buy an SAE "Shower Valve Socket" set in the plumbing section of the large hardware stores like i did that will be close (my SAE shower wrench was a little too loose, so i carefully/slightly dented in the sides of the 29/32" hex with a ball peen hammer to add more grip to the metric nut). if you're working alone like i did, it can be tough to get the four large bolts out. on the top ones, i was able to lay across the swim deck, hold the nut with a long wrench while using my electric impact with a long extension to turn out the bolt (i have long arms). on the bottom ones, i had a large socket wrench with extension on the inside, propped up and padded with towels/foam against the transom while i carefully turned the bolts out from outside the boat (the inside socket wrench will stop itself against hull - i'm definitely going to need a second set of hands to re install these bolts). then you can use a piece of wood to pry the bottom of the plate off, leveraged against the intake duct.

 

[Julian]

I always "assumed" that the bolts holding the grates on didn't penetrate the hull, so no leaking is possible.....is that not the case? So the primary value of pulling it off is to replace the silicon...which is the stuff you are having so much trouble getting off. So my only point was....if you don't have any cavitation now....and the silicon isn't falling off/deteriotating...let it be. Seems like its being a holy terror getting the one side off....

 

[CrankyGypsy]

yes, there are no leaks from the intake duct - the bolts do penetrate the hull, though. and there are no repairs needed on the starboard side, but i pulled the entire pump assembly off for a fresh install and want to do the duct while i'm at it. that's just how i am: overkill. the starboard side used to cavitate, but i threw a band aid on it last season: it worked, but i just used my finger to half-blindly squish some 4200 up in there. i'd rather prep the surfaces and do it properly now that the boat is going to be down for a while. and absolutely, it's been a giant pain in the butt. however, one duct HAS to come off and i'll rest easier knowing both will be good for another 10years.

 

[Julian]

Makes sense! I assume you haven't gotten the thing to budge yet? Do you have someone helping you- was asking as you may be able to get the various implements suggested into the gap further if someone is levering it while attempting to slice the silicon....just don't crush them with the 2x4!

Keep the photos coming!

 

[CrankyGypsy]

@Julian : still stuck - been trying to cut deeper with the guitar strings and get acetone in there with no luck. i'm determined! ha
i'm solo. but levering it, i'm not seeing any kind of movement that would allow for the addition of a wedge. it just won't budge; rock solid. i'm still pondering the use of an industrial pressure washer - not sure it will penetrate deep enough, especially at the bolt mating surface (i can't even get a razor blade in there as of yet).

@Seadeals : i saw you refinished your pump parts with a "conversion coating" a while ago with really impressive results. do you recall what brand of coating and enamel you used?
i found silicone has to reach 500*F+ to start letting go. was figuring it nearly impossible to get that large chunk hot enough without damaging the anodizing and the surrounding area. but if you had luck refinishing yours, i might take the acetylene torch with a large tip to it, carefully heating from the center. it will be a breeze to refinish off the boat.

UPDATE: okay, looks like silicone is more heat resistant than resin. so heating up the duct might not be a good option. i haven't counted it out, just timid about trying.
UPDATE: heat is a bad move. tried a little spot and had a tiny bit of gelcoat melt from the radiating heat. no big deal - appears it wasn't hot enough to damage the fiberglass underneath.

 

[CrankyGypsy]

SOME PROGRESS!

decided to give the port side a go to see if my luck would change. this time, i was more deliberate removing the silicone. used a razor to wedge-cut the bottom and back seams. then used small needle-nosed pliers to pull as much as i possibly could out. also did a little guitar string work, but nowhere near as much as the starboard side (the most port-side seem doesn't have much room for a string to fit). tried to pry it with a 2x4 and got absolutely nothing...

would be nice if Yamaha added a slight grade to the back of new ducts to allow penetration of a chisel/wedge.
the area in front of my port duct already needs fiberglass repair, so i decided to go for broke and hammer in a flat-blade screwdriver at the back where a razor wouldn't even fit. as i drove it in, it didn't appear to damage the gel. but it was separating with each strike and i continued to hear the silicone separating several seconds after i'd stopped. right now, i am waiting for the acetone and 3M adhesive remover to work deeper into the crevice. hope to switch to a wooden wedge (if i have one) that will be more forgiven on the body.

 

[CrankyGypsy]

both are finally out!

once i was able to also get a chisel in there, it separated enough that i could lever it out easily as @Cobra Jet Steering LLC had instructed. i did cause a few gel chips though on the starboard side - you can't go in straight with the flat-blades. the only real good access points are the corners and you have to go at this angle:


the manual shows a large bead running the edges of the duct before install. in these pics, you can see that my gaps were completely filled. not sure if this was factory or if someone had them both off. but i've got a hunch it's factory plus i don't see any repairs from within the hull (i have the cleanout plug tray removed) that would warrant it. also note that the guitar string really didn't go as far as i thought it did on the starboard side (maybe 50%):

solid layer of silicone:

 

[Bruce]

That is a lot of silicone!

I look forward to seeing pictures of your progress.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Great pics! This will help future members....thanks for documenting your project.

 

[CrankyGypsy]

went at removing the huge amount of silicone. pretty tedious due to the amount of surface area, but here's what worked for me.


the purple thing is a ScotchBrite Stay Clean Scrubber. it didn't gunk-up on me and doesn't scratch the gelcoat like regular scotchbrite would. i tried using acetone - i'm not saying it doesn't work on silicone, but i can definitely tell the 3M Cleaner works better. i later found a small plastic plaster spreader is very useful once the 3M Cleaner is applied. also get some Bar Keepers Friend.

i used the metal paint scraper to get the thicker layers off. then i went back over everything with the razor blade/glass-scraper. there was still a very thin film left. using the soft side of the Scrubber, i applied 3M Cleaner over it. this loosened the silicone just enough to allow the razor to really get under it. the plaster spreader is almost as good as the razor for this. the plaster spreader was very useful on the corners, though - you can get very aggressive with it without marking up the gelcoat. the screwdriver works in the tighter spots. then i used the coarser side of the Scrubber to get most of the gummy remnants off.

there will still be a a very fine film that the razor cannot get up, but i found using Bar Keepers Friend on a paper towel with some elbow grease actually gets it to bare gelcoat! i love that stuff.

 

[tdonoughue]

Wow! Congratulations on getting them out. Yes, they appear to have put a little silicone on there... I don't think that I would bother trying to upgrade the silicone to something else. With the way that is designed, looks like it will hold for the next 30 years...

 

[Speedling]

Grats man, what a project!

 

[4x15mph]

You got it done. Nicely done and I like hearing of another use for barkeepers friend. One of the top 10 cleaning products!

 

[uccats]

I have no experience in this removal but will give you service manual pages that show the siliconed surfaces.

View attachment 16133 View attachment 16134

Thats an awesome diagram can ask where you located it? I had to take off my intakes to do a repair and now am reinstalling and this will be helpful. thanks!

 

[uccats]

Thats an awesome diagram can ask where you located it? I had to take off my intakes to do a repair and now am reinstalling and this will be helpful. thanks!

Thanks!!

 

[uccats]

Crankygypsy, were these bolts stainless? I took these grates off one side last year and conveniently lost the bolts.....argh

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Thats an awesome diagram can ask where you located it? I had to take off my intakes to do a repair and now am reinstalling and this will be helpful. thanks!

You’ll find that in the service manual available through Yamaha