Easiest way to add/amplify music at the helm

[FloJet]

@K.C. it all depends on what you are trying to accomplish. If you don't get out too much away from the boat, than having cabin speakers is good way to go. But if you are looking for more projection lets say for water sports, than having towers can help accomplish that. I've heard towerless systems that would blow away many tower systems so it's all just about your level of comfort and budget off course.

 

[fraserjr]

@K.C. it all depends on what you are trying to accomplish. If you don't get out too much away from the boat, than having cabin speakers is good way to go. But if you are looking for more project lets say for water sports, than having towers can help accomplish that. I've heard towerless systems that would blow away many tower systems so it's all just about your level of comfort and budge off course.

You also have to get some serious tower speakers to effectively hear them when on a tube/wakeboard behind the boat.

 

[K.C.]

Thanks guys!

 

[Julian]

Yes, I used the 5" hole cutter that came in a kit from Habor Freight.

Is this what you bought:
http://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-5-in-carbon-steel-hole-saw-set-18-pc-68115.html

 

[fraserjr]

Is this what you bought:
http://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-5-in-carbon-steel-hole-saw-set-18-pc-68115.html

Sure is. It worked well.

 

[Mainah]

Speed is your friend and torque your enemy with that set. Light even pressure on a drill that has a side handle will get the best results without hurting you or the boat.

 

[fraserjr]

Speed is your friend and torque your enemy with that set. Light even pressure on a drill that has a side handle will get the best results without hurting you or the boat.

100% agree. Do not try and use a battery powered drill. You need something with some power and speed to make a clean cut. I had to back it out a couple times just to make sure it was cutting properly but it does work well. Also, I think someone mentioned starting in reverse to score the fiberglass first.

 

[MattFX4]

100% agree. Do not try and use a battery powered drill. You need something with some power and speed to make a clean cut. I had to back it out a couple times just to make sure it was cutting properly but it does work well. Also, I think someone mentioned starting in reverse to score the fiberglass first.

Haha I tried to use a battery powered drill. Didn't work so well. It only lasted a minute or two before overheating and crapping out. I switched over to a heavy duty powered drill and no problem.

 

[Benny Sibbitt]

Is this what you bought:
http://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-5-in-carbon-steel-hole-saw-set-18-pc-68115.html

That's the same set I used to cut out my jl audio 6.5
Test by cutting a hole in a box and see if speaker fits an see how much play you have first

The first powered drill I used didn't have enough power, luckily I had a second one that did the trick. Cutting through the hull will take some time and a little elbow muscle

 

[Julian]

That's the same set I used to cut out my jl audio 6.5
Test by cutting a hole in a box and see if speaker fits an see how much play you have first

The first powered drill I used didn't have enough power, luckily I had a second one that did the trick. Cutting through the hull will take some time and a little elbow muscle

I've actually cut bigger holes than this in my boats....like for 6x9 speakers, but for the big ones I've just used a Dewalk hole saw. I've cut holes with a 4" hole saw...just go in reverse first and then high speed nice and smooth and slow.

 

[Julian]

Added this thread to the Stereo FAQ list

 

[Julian]

I spent the afternoon making some changes to the boat, including beginning the process of installing mid cabin speakers. Since I was hoping to install them in the mid cabin inserts I spent a long time measuring and checking depths before I drilled a 5" hole. My first step was to remove the cup holder near where I wanted to install the speaker and measured the depth to the outer wall. This measurement scared the crap out of me as it was about 3" to the edge of the cupholder to the out hull wall and there was about 1" between the cupholder and the insert wall (so only 2" of speaker clearance).

Not convinced yet, I removed part of the wall in the changing room and took some measurements there. These measurements showed there was 3.5" of clearance (the cupholder is much lower...so the clearance is less)


Since I could see behind the coving from this vantage point, I could see that there was likely enough room, so I took the advice someone earlier in this thread suggested and I drilled a tiny hole and stuck a wire in there. This measurement also read at 3.5".


I could also see where the wire came through from the storage closet view, and my only concern was one of the longer screws through the rub rail, so I attempted to mount the speaker as high as I could to avoid the rub rail more. At this point I decided to take the plunge as the JLs I was planning on installing needed 2 7/8 depth. So out came the hole saw and drilling began! Once I was through, of course one of the screws was very close to the back of the speaker....so I cut it off.

Here you can see the distance to the screw:


After this, I test fit the speaker again, and all looked good!


So I finished installing the speaker and here is the end result:




I'm very happy with the results, and now just need to go through the same process for the other side. Of course I will likely double and triple check the clearances on the other side as well! And the dealer said it wouldn't fit!

I'm waiting for wire to arrive to connect the Wetsounds amp then I'll know how they sound!

 

[Julian]

@Mainah @David Analog and other stereo/electronics gurus.....can I connect the remote turn cable on my new amp to the remote turn on plug on the existing amp? IE piggy back on the one wire?

 

[Mainah]

@Mainah @David Analog and other stereo/electronics gurus.....can I connect the remote turn cable on my new amp to the remote turn on plug on the existing amp? IE piggy back on the one wire?

Yes. Think of the remote turn on like a relay trigger. Very little current is needed and no danger of creating a loop.

 

[Mainah]

@Julian - The photo you got from inside the head is brilliant. Think I will be adding some more speakers come spring.

 

[Benny Sibbitt]

@Julian wow that's a tight fit.
Looks real good.

 

[Julian]

@Julian wow that's a tight fit.
Looks real good.

Yes a tight fit....If need be I could add a spacer....but it appears that it should be fine. I was concerned the white wouldn't look good....but I actually think it looks really nice.

 

[robert843]

I wonder if the would fit the previous model 240's there this is my next upgrade to get sound at the helm.

 

[MattFX4]

Yes a tight fit....If need be I could add a spacer....but it appears that it should be fine. I was concerned the white wouldn't look good....but I actually think it looks really nice.

The white looks great! I went with white too, and glad I did.

 

[Julian]

I wonder if the would fit the previous model 240's there this is my next upgrade to get sound at the helm.

Not sure....but measure often!

I can say that the distance at the bottom of the 5" hole was less than at the top....so mount them as high as you can! This is the depth at the top...just over 3":


And here is the distance to the bottom (not counting the screw I had to cut down):