• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

Engines start rough, cut out

The first year I had the boat I had a similar problem and it was always the port engine. The dealer worked on several times and even road with us to see it first had. It was just a pain when I was backing in to the slip and then engine would shut down right in the middle! Anyway, I finally figured it out, well at least it stopped. I didn't know that the bilge pump would just stop pumping after several minutes even if there was water in the bilge. So when I would run it and then when it stopped pumping water I would turn it off. What happened is there was a lot of water (to me) in the engine compartment. I saw this and thought not good, so I left the bilge pump (always do now) and after awhile the water was gone. Amazingly the problem has been gone ever since. I suspect the water was either splashing or just creating enough moisture to cause a problem. Now almost into our 5th year I have never had the problem again regardless of how we use the boat. This is just what happened to me.
 
Here is a couple of things to consider, with the 1.8 engines if the throttle is not completely back to the stop , the sensor will keep the ignition from firing so the thing will crank over but not run, I can't say if this is true of the mr1 engines but it is probably the same.
So if a sensor is acting up you can have an issue . Here is what I have found that causes issues with things running and operating correctly.
Keep in mind it's my personal experience and remedy.
I always rinsed off my engines after use even though they never really needed it. One day After rinsing the engines off I started the engine and had all sorts of issues even the low fuel warning but the tank was full. I then tried not rinsing the exterior of the engines just to see if that was causing a problem but I did coat them with white lithium grease .
This solved the issue . So perhaps you are getting your wiring wet and it is causing it to run rough for a while, just something for you to check. I actually sprayed inside all my electrical conections with silicon spray to prevent moisture from causing any issues , I know they are supposed to be water proof but it can't hurt. Any corrosion on a sensor pin conection changed the value and may cause issues so a ounce of prevention is a good thing.
Any recommendations for the white lithium grease and the silicon spray ?
 
I just pick it up off the shelf at walmart
 
I have always used WD40 on my marine engines. It will eventually lift stickers off but they always looked brand new after a good bath when I lived in SW Fl.
 
That is something I have always told people NOT to do, it is a penetrating oil and it can break down rubber hoses and other important components, The white lithium is really working great so far. and it stick to what you spray it on. Silicon is good for wire connectors , dielectric grease is good for the spark plug boots.
 
Been using it for decades like that, never had an issue. BTW WD-40 does not attack rubber, it is safe for it. The only two items you have to watch out for are polystyrene and clear polycarbonate plastics. It will dull the clear polycarbonate and it does dissolve polystyrene over time. I use WD-4 for many things, from gun care, my engines and even bare metal on my restorations. Never had an issue. If someone had an issue with rubber breaking down I would wager it was more than likely from the newer ethanol gas etc than it would be from good ole WD.
 
Last edited:
Suit yourself, but my advice is do not use it on your boat or your ammo it can ruin your bullets, A local trooper learned that lesson years ago .
On the engines pumps hose clamps white lithium grease is what I use, on my guns it's silicon spray.
Carried a gun every day in the Florida humidity and rain for 23 years.
 
Suit yourself, but my advice is do not use it on your boat or your ammo it can ruin your bullets, A local trooper learned that lesson years ago .
On the engines pumps hose clamps white lithium grease is what I use, on my guns it's silicon spray.
Carried a gun every day in the Florida humidity and rain for 23 years.

Jeff - never heard of silicon spray on firearms. I am intrigued, do you use this in place of Ballistol or similar - or is it more of a post clean protective spray?

Thanks!
 
Just spray it on and don't touch it. I did test bullets spraying them with wd 40 and it did ruin several . Any way everyone has their own preference when it comes to engine protection I just did plugs in both my engines today used platinum plugs MY preference, used silicon grease on the boots and re-sprayed the engine and hose clamps with whit lithium grease as I always do, And it is still raining this is never going to end 2 weeks and continuing.
 
I will absolutely agree with you on ammo, never under any circumstances oil ammo. It is best left alone. They drilled that into us in the Police Academy and showed examples. Some lessons you dont wat to learn the hard way. As far as my guns I soak them for long term storage, pull them out, hose them down with non chlorine brake cleaner or gun scrubber then lightly oil like they are supposed to be. Too much oil can be just as destructive on a gun for a dirt attractant. Thankfully we have great new tech and the polymer coatings etc are awesome! Only oil required on modern arms today is just the friction points.
 
Last edited:
To get back to the original post...It appears to be a RICH fuel/air mixture issue. The posters having the issue seem to be in Florida, Georgia and Texas. Excuse me Mel, I meant TEXAS. :) Anyway, the hot, humid conditions down their create even hotter temps in the engine compartment which is where the engines INITIALLY get their combustion air from. This hot humid air is lacking in combustible oxygen causing the engines to run very rich until the engine compartment air stabilizes with the outside ambient air. Running the blower motor first helps to expel the hot/humid/stagnant engine compartment air and replace it with the outside ambient air which may be 30 degrees cooler and more oxygen rich. The solution...Move north young man, move north. :)
 
To get back to the original post...It appears to be a RICH fuel/air mixture issue. The posters having the issue seem to be in Florida, Georgia and Texas. Excuse me Mel, I meant TEXAS. :) Anyway, the hot, humid conditions down their create even hotter temps in the engine compartment which is where the engines INITIALLY get their combustion air from. This hot humid air is lacking in combustible oxygen causing the engines to run very rich until the engine compartment air stabilizes with the outside ambient air. Running the blower motor first helps to expel the hot/humid/stagnant engine compartment air and replace it with the outside ambient air which may be 30 degrees cooler and more oxygen rich. The solution...Move north young man, move north. :)
I would hope that folks that are just starting their engines and having this issue...would have just had the blower running for 4 minutes....???? No?
 
I was also told by our firearms guy to NEVER use the wd-40 on firearms/ammo. On the other topic, has anyone ever tried to make a vent in the engine compartment for air flow, or that would cause it to be even more loud I assume.
 
I just spray the whole engine compartment with crc 6-56. But it by the gallon, pour it n a garden sprayer, pump and go.....any negatives ? Havent had an issue yet, everything looks great inside
 
What jawsf16 said.

Last week one engine sounded like it had rocks in it. Oil check was good, then checked battery.....yep it had loose connections. I love 10 second repairs!
 
What jawsf16 said.

Last week one engine sounded like it had rocks in it. Oil check was good, then checked battery.....yep it had loose connections. I love 10 second repairs!


Great news! I hauled a battery out and drove into town while at Broken Bow, OK. The battery checked good and got me thinking. Unfortunately I took a huge rock to the truck windshield on the unnecessary trip...

Glad it worked out better for you!
 
What jawsf16 said.

Last week one engine sounded like it had rocks in it. Oil check was good, then checked battery.....yep it had loose connections. I love 10 second repairs![/QUOTE]

Yeah but the down side to a 10 second repair is it doesn't give you time for e beer. :)
 
Last edited:
Sorry to hear about the rock! It is always something.
 
Back
Top