Good luck and bless you in this crazy COVID time.... it’s a sellers market. It took us a long time to get lucky. Beware of brokers (and be ready for the 20% markup)... it’s almost comical? Delivery service is your call, and would depend on rep and contract. There are Tons and tons of great advise and experience here.... this is where I spent long hours researching pre-purchase.
Ask- You may even find a friend on site here local to the sale willing to help (It worked out I had boat familiar family for wet test and inspection help... if you need N. VA/DC area help - reach out).
Definitely HIN check it (a legit pay for service that have HIN and trailer VIN records). As said, get the papers/forms process needed clear and squared away for both states. And it does not hurt to have the seller sign more than might appear needed (ie. make bill of sales for trailer separate from boat, it just depends on your state and the clerk at the dmv .... but it can get really painful if you don’t have a signed document you need to complete registration)
Ask seller for the service records and shop - review and contact the shop to ask for their impartial opinion of the boat. Get marine survey that have been mentioned previously - and specifically get compression, cylinder drop test, and YDS reports (YDS will tell a ton about the engines).
I had wasted 1000s miles and hours (days) looking at salty-lemons ... so am very wary of salt boats.... grew up working a marina and salt boats. They aren’t bad, but must be meticulously cared for (interview and assessment of seller will tell you right away about that). There is a premium price differential fresh/lake vs salt... and it’s justified. You have to seriously test and vet the boat either way (there are numerous horror stories of overheating cropping up after purchasing without a good wet test). You/survey could consider to pull thermostats and/or anode to gauge the internal engine condition also.
Following advice trailering already described - be prepared (heck, be equipped and over prepared, you don’t know the tires and hubs condition, service/maintenance), plan your route, and take your time. Boat tows much easier than a box camper though - have fun!
This below is a mod from the checklist provided in FAQ and gathered up from other posts (sorry, I’m trying to figure out how to upload the doc, but pasted in below).
Yamaha Jetboat Pre-purchasing Inspections and Wet test drive items (Nov 2020)
Contact servicing marina/mechanic(s) to discuss this boat’s condition, records of service and work. Major problems? Major repairs/work - get records and warranty. (Same for trailer)
A- Check the serial numbers! Hull (HIN) AND trailer (VIN). Make sure they match the paperwork. Run HIN report and recalls.
B - Check hull for any repairs. Paint may not quite match in area / missing graphics / stripes that most AR210 have.....why? Rub-rail damage?
C- Inspect hull for any cracks or deformities. Especially the keel (run aground?) and by the trailer bow eye/roller area and stern tie-downs for spider cracks; check Speedo Pitot and depth sounder fittings (grounding damage?)
D- Jet pump impellers (get on your back underneath looking back with a flashlight) - check for no nicks on leading/outer edges and rust free is best. Jet nozzle condition (no ugly white deposits; (that cannot be cleaned?)
- Jet pump Clean out plug (x2) operation and condition- via access hatch on rear platform step.
- drive shaft and bearings - reach down into clean out and try to shake/move the shaft - any play is bad (intermediate bearings or rear of impeller /cone bearings)
- while in inside clean out hatch - open the inner portal hatch (with flashlight) - look for signs of water leaks, broken/missing pipe clamps (especially on exhaust through-hull and drive shaft tube).
E- Scupper for cockpit drain- upgraded to stainless. .. no? If not, inspect very closely- pull the flapper up and look around the circumference of the white plastic for cracking. (Stainless is a must upgrade- plastic will break and sink the boat.)
F- Trouble deck Soft spot? Deck around table insert bracket from failed caulk seal water enters and rots core wood of deck
G- Check deck / interior for any spider cracks. Especially at tower mount and cleats, hatch hinges areas.
H- Check upholstery for any tears. Check underneath each cushion for rip/breaks... mold? All cushions present (sun pad , step at center rear)?
I- Door/hatch gasket seals? Mold or mildew? Deck hatches and lockers? (Locker Storage door seal shrinks and separated?)
J- Windshield function, lock and seal? Windshield loose?
K- Wake board tow tower sound & secure?
L- Battery(s?), fuses and wiring - year, condition (test)?
M- Electronic components all work? (should be done and checked by mech inspection/survey in documented report). Vent fan, Bilge pump, ignitions and engine safety kill, lights, horn, radio, marine radio? Running and anchor lights?
N- Verify accessories- anchor, extinguisher, covers?, Bimini top and boot (cover) , tow tube , rope, life jackets? Fenders, lines. Umm.. keys, flush adapter, what else ??
O- Check the trailer. Look for bad rust, cracks in welds / beams. or dry rot tires. Visual insp is ok. (These are claimed to be all brand new, new brakes.??)
- hubs grease and seals. what type of grease used on hubs previously (cannot mix typically)
- brakes- fluid, rust?
- Winch functions?
- Electrical all functions?
ENGINE
A- OIL type used? (Yamaha lube marine 10w-40 is strongly recommended) when cold, the oil level should be between the low and halfway point (no more- this is serious overfill and damages engine!!). Then when it is hot the level rises to between the halfway point and full.
- smell the oil. (These MR1 engines run 8k rpm and more- they are very high and if they get cooked, they die hard, but rarely), milky water contamination? Bilge area clean?
B- Check for cacked engine block (or damaged gasket) - look under the exhaust manifold with a mirror or iPhone video - specifically at the #3 cylinder for any weird deposits on the crank case that indicate a leak. It is rare. It can happen (especially on older than 2011)
C- Engine compression numbers. They should all be close to each other. - all 8 nearly 180psi?? Cylinder drop test performance recorded.
D - Dash instrument lights flashing on tachs means they are telling you an error code (note No-wake mode flashing signal)
E - YDS read ECM will read all sorts of data from your Yamaha engine(run diagnostics on both)? This includes not just engine hours, but even the hours in specific RPM ranges! As well as overheat and other warnings, errors, etc. (purchase and will run this test)
F- Air-filters? Check condition . If oil soaked (overfilled engine) or wet .... bad.
G- Steering Operation? Play? Smooth?
H- Throttle Operations? Forward, neutral..... reverse function & smooth? But not sloppy loose (correct amount of friction?)
I- All the linkages can/should have grease. The service manual shows all the possible points. See the external linkages by pulling back the rubber boots if needed.
- what type of grease used previously - should be marine water proof (cannot mix typically)
J- Engine operating & Running-
Ashore: Hose hooked up (engine on, then hose on/hose off, then engine off). Inspect Coolant water circulation- check bypass outlets in side hull and both water discharge points through exhaust and outlet above jetpump (is there raw water/emergency tow shutoff valves added?)
— Listen to engines (knocks, ticks ... lifters are noisy but not “bad” sounding), note any water leaks, smell for exhaust or gas leaks?
— Listen to impellers out back - any blender metal rattle noise? (Drive shaft/Cone Bearings need attention ... or worse: jet pump wear ring can warp due to salt intrusion and corrosion of metals - look for wear /burn high spot)
K- In water- does it leak? (From where??) ???
- Observe closely all launch procedures (any issues ?)
L- After proper engine warming.... shutdown and check oil levels. Then, test if the boat can hit 10K RPM, go 44-49+ MPH or so on GPS. At all speeds- note any vibrations or sounds that would indicate bearing wear or worn impellers, how the boat steers and tracks, does it overheat, etc.
- Feell for precise boost “hole-shot” from standing - hit the throttles wide open and it throws you back, if you ease into it you can hide cavitation.
- While underway feel and listen for excessive vibration, knocks and surges. The boat should accelerate smoothly. Hold different RPM like 2500, 3000, 5000, 6000 etc and feel for vibrations.
M- No-wake mode work? Dash tach lights flash? Depth gauge and speedometer?
N- Observe closely all haul out, flush, wash procedures (any issues ?)
