FSH 252/255 Trolling Motor Project

[Scott N]

Thank for the great feedback!

 

[Scott N]

I’m a bit confused on the mounting bracket. Do I need a quick release from Minn Kota and the Shuttleslide quick release and bracket?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I just re read the posts again and it looks like you need both. The MG quick release plate attaches to the shuttle slide, and the shuttle slide attaches to the boat. @Zackdadams will have to comment for specifics.

On another note, after re reading all the posts I didn’t see any mention of a shunt to measure how much power is being consumed while the trolling motor is in use, i te read fast so I may have missed it. I installed a Victron energy Bluetooth shunt that shows; battery voltage, instantaneous amperage being used, Ah used, KWh used, SOC or state of charge, and it can measure a second batteries’ voltage only. This second battery voltage measurement is labeled start battery, obviously you can measure whatever battery you want with it, or this port can be used to measure temperature.

There is a free app you put on your phone, pad or tablet to read the aforementioned. Without this device or one like it knowing the SOC of the battery is purely guess wok. These little jewels are about $135.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0856PHNLX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Victron also makes a dash mount version.

https://www.amazon.com/Victron-BMV-712-Battery-Monitor-Black/dp/B084M2XYK4/ref=sr_1_3?crid=P8LIJOFFPKL&keywords=victron%2Benergy%2Bbmv-712%2Bsmart%2Bbattery%2Bmonitor&qid=1671110686&s=electronics&sprefix=Victron%2Celectronics%2C178&sr=1-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0&th=1

 

[Scott N]

I’m a bit confused on the mounting bracket. Do I need a quick release from Minn Kota and the Shuttleslide quick release and bracket?

Replying to my own post. I did find a couple of older posts that helped, then I called ShuttleSlide to confirm. I was quite confused about the whole thing, but I now understand that for the 255 FSH we need both the quick release from the TM vendor (Minn Kota RT-54 in my case) and the ShuttleSlide sliding quick release mount to work. She also clarified that we need the longer 6” mounting bracket to get the reach that we need on the 255, so I am super glad that I called.

 

[Zackdadams]

Everything I installed should be listed.
Shuttleslide SS-7-UHD with BMAP-RE Plate, and Trolling Motor Quick Release Mount.

I didn't install a shunt, but it's a good idea.
I have a bluetooth one installed on my solar cargo trailer, and it's helpful.

 

[deputyjrp55]

Hey, does anyone have the measurement from trolling motor mount to waterline.... ?

 

[the_natural]

Great write-up! Thanks so much for this amazing resource. I'm hoping to do this install on my 220 FSH Sport.

A couple of questions:

1. You must've run two waterproof extension cords from the NOCO a/c pigtail in order to charge everything, right? One to the charger for the house and starter, and the other to the trolling motor battery charger?

2. Do you find that the mount itself impedes much view or is otherwise in the way/anoying for non-fishing outings (when the trolling motor is obviously removed)? I don't think my wife or kids will care much, but I'm still curious.

Thanks.

 

[Zackdadams]

1) Yes.
2) Never get any complaints. Easy to take off for sand bar trips.

Thanks

 

[the_natural]

1) Yes.
2) Never get any complaints. Easy to take off for sand bar trips.

Thanks

Great.

Would you buy the Motorguide again, now that you've had it for awhile? I guess they're getting cleared out and are a good price so I'm thinking about one of the exact same models.

Has your battery size been sufficient for your needs? I keep finding 50Ah and 100Ah, but the forward space in the console tapers as it moves toward the bow, making it not ideal for a battery of that size (based on my measuring this afternoon). Might have to put some kind of a riser down first, not sure.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Great.

Would you buy the Motorguide again, now that you've had it for awhile? I guess they're getting cleared out and are a good price so I'm thinking about one of the exact same models.

Has your battery size been sufficient for your needs? I keep finding 50Ah and 100Ah, but the forward space in the console tapers as it moves toward the bow, making it not ideal for a battery of that size (based on my measuring this afternoon). Might have to put some kind of a riser down first, not sure.

Imma take the liberty of jumping in here on the battery size.. that is highly dependent on how much you use the trolling motor. I use mine a lot and have three 100Ah battler born LFP batteries, before that I had three flooded lead acid batteries. Zack installed a DL 63Ah / 2.2KWh 36 Volt trolling motor battery, that looks like a great choice as far as run time, weight and simplicity. If you use your trolling motor a lot like I do, then go with the 100Ah LFP batteries. Zack says basically the same in post #18. Also, if you are not willing to pay the money for a Dakota Lithium, Battle Born or ReLion battery stick with flooded lead acid batteries. LFP batteries are some serious coin, but, if you decide to sell this boat you can always just pull them out for the next boat and put in a set of flooded lead acid deep cycles for the sale.

Again, depending on how much you use your trolling motor, it may or may not be important to you about whether or not said trolling motor will interface with the Simrad unit. I’m pretty sure @Roger Vrooman put a motor guide troller in his boat ( he sold his 255 and I have not seen him around in a while) and he had a few issues with it staying synched to his Simrad, I don’t know if @Zackdadams has tried integrating his trolling motor into his Simrad unit, so he will have to comment when he can.

 

[the_natural]

Imma take the liberty of jumping in here on the battery size.. that is highly dependent on how much you use the trolling motor. I use mine a lot and have three 100Ah battler born LFP batteries, before that I had three flooded lead acid batteries. Zack installed a DL 63Ah / 2.2KWh 36 Volt trolling motor battery, that looks like a great choice as far as run time, weight and simplicity. If you use your trolling motor a lot like I do, then go with the 100Ah LFP batteries. Zack says basically the same in post #18. Also, if you are not willing to pay the money for a Dakota Lithium, Battle Born or ReLion battery stick with flooded lead acid batteries. LFP batteries are some serious coin, but, if you decide to sell this boat you can always just pull them out for the next boat and put in a set of flooded lead acid deep cycles for the sale.

Again, depending on how much you use your trolling motor, it may or may not be important to you about whether or not said trolling motor will interface with the Simrad unit. I’m pretty sure @Roger Vrooman put a motor guide troller in his boat ( he sold his 255 and I have not seen him around in a while) and he had a few issues with it staying synched to his Simrad, I don’t know if @Zackdadams has tried integrating his trolling motor into his Simrad unit, so he will have to comment when he can.

Thanks! BTW I have a couple of your upgrades bookmarked and want to roll some of them out to my 220 Sport. It's an impressive list of things you've done to your boat, sir!

I have essentially assumed I'd probably go with the 100Ah LFP. Were you saying that, in your view, there are only a few manufactures that are worth buying? I'd found some other fishing guy talking about a brand called LiTime, which seem pretty good I guess. Dakota is very expensive.

I'm a noob on all things marine. We bought the boat in early October and have had it out about 6-7 times and we love it. I quickly realized that I'd never be able to fish here in Charleston without a trolling motor, so I'm working on that piece now (obviously). I don't have a huge budget for this, and the Xi5 trolling motors (72", 36v) are now a good deal, at around $1,700; but I really want to fish and take my kids fishing, so I don't want to get a tiny battery either that unnecessarily limits our abilities.

I have a Lowrance Elite FS9, and I know that with requisite adapters the Xi5 will work with it, but I think it has to run an older software version, etc, so I'm fine just using the remote control, at least for now. I've never had a boat and never had a trolling motor, so I want to make sensible choices and go/learn from there; don't necessarily need all top-shelf stuff right away.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thanks! BTW I have a couple of your upgrades bookmarked and want to roll some of them out to my 220 Sport. It's an impressive list of things you've done to your boat, sir!

I have essentially assumed I'd probably go with the 100Ah LFP. Were you saying that, in your view, there are only a few manufactures that are worth buying? I'd found some other fishing guy talking about a brand called LiTime, which seem pretty good I guess. Dakota is very expensive.

I'm a noob on all things marine. We bought the boat in early October and have had it out about 6-7 times and we love it. I quickly realized that I'd never be able to fish here in Charleston without a trolling motor, so I'm working on that piece now (obviously). I don't have a huge budget for this, and the Xi5 trolling motors (72", 36v) are now a good deal, at around $1,700; but I really want to fish and take my kids fishing, so I don't want to get a tiny battery either that unnecessarily limits our abilities.

I have a Lowrance Elite FS9, and I know that with requisite adapters the Xi5 will work with it, but I think it has to run an older software version, etc, so I'm fine just using the remote control, at least for now. I've never had a boat and never had a trolling motor, so I want to make sensible choices and go/learn from there; don't necessarily need all top-shelf stuff right away.

I’m going to send you a private / direct message as I do not want to hijack Zacks thread any further.

 

[Zackdadams]

I don't use my trolling motor a lot, but when I do, my current battery seems to run all day; never had it die.

I don't have it tied into my simrad at the moment, although I have bought all of the cabling to do this.
That's the reason I went with Motorguide.
An optional upgrade.

Just another future project.

Also @FSH 210 input is always welcome!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I don't use my trolling motor a lot, but when I do, my current battery seems to run all day; never had it die.

I don't have it tied into my simrad at the moment, although I have bought all of the cabling to do this.
That's the reason I went with Motorguide.
An optional upgrade.

Just another future project.

Also @FSH 210 input is always welcome!

Thanks Zack!

 

[the_natural]

As I inch closer to doing this project myself (the same trolling motor is on order), I'm struggling with the Shuttle Slide mount aspect of it. I really like how low the (albeit not great) factory Yamaha mount sits, and my main issue with the Shuttle Slide is that it's so tall.

You had to get the BMAP-RE because the SS-7 essentially wasn't long enough to overhand the gunnel and allow the shaft to clear it, right? I guess I'm trying to figure out why you went with the SS-7 + BMAP-RE instead of the longer SS-9 and have it overhang the gunnel the way the factory one does? Personal preference?

On another forum I saw some people used a thick piece of aluminum plate made which they bolted to the gunnel and then mounted the trolling motor to that. Personally, I think I'm less bothered about something that overhangs than I am something tall on the gunnel, for whatever reason, and I'm trying to figure out what another good, solid mounting option might be.

Admittedly I'm a noob to this stuff, so maybe I'm missing something obvious.

 

[Zackdadams]

Shuttle Slide will call you when you order, to double check which boat you have.
They will send you the parts recommended, which are the ones we listed.

You want the motor to retract in past the hull, so the mooring cover fits properly.

 

[the_natural]

Shuttle Slide will call you when you order, to double check which boat you have.
They will send you the parts recommended, which are the ones we listed.

You want the motor to retract in past the hull, so the mooring cover fits properly.

I actually spoke with them the other day and the woman wasn't exactly sure what I needed. I told her it was probably the same as the 252/255, which she was familiar with. She said that requires a slightly longer BMAP-RE, as you said above (I think).

I didn't think about the OEM mooring cover not fitting over the OEM trolling motor mount. Bummer.

Thanks.

 

[MilesPrower]

You had to get the BMAP-RE because the SS-7 essentially wasn't long enough to overhand the gunnel and allow the shaft to clear it, right? I guess I'm trying to figure out why you went with the SS-7 + BMAP-RE instead of the longer SS-9 and have it overhang the gunnel the way the factory one does? Personal preference?

On my 255 FSH, I used an SS-9-UHD with a BMAP-RE... not because I needed the extra length, but because it was purchased for another boat... so I had it lying around. The extra length doesn't hurt (there's plenty of space on the 255's gunnel for it), but there's no need for the extra length. When I deploy my motor, I don't slide out the motor all the way, and I have more than an enough clearance from the rub rail.

On another forum I saw some people used a thick piece of aluminum plate made which they bolted to the gunnel and then mounted the trolling motor to that. Personally, I think I'm less bothered about something that overhangs than I am something tall on the gunnel, for whatever reason, and I'm trying to figure out what another good, solid mounting option might be.

The ShuttleSlide mount does look ugly as sin. Considering your preference for something that extends forward vs. something that stands tall & ugly, I would recommend you go to a marine outfitter or welder nearby and have them machine you a stainless steel plate that exactly matches the size and hole-pattern of your OEM mount. Then sandwich that plate between the OEM mount and the base of the trolling motor (or quick-release mount). Going this route will satisfy your preference for a lower-profile mounting scheme — and you'll save money.

I have a Motorguide Xi5 integrated with my Simrad MFDs. Being able to touch any point on my MFD's chart, downscan, or sidescan display and command the trolling motor to move the boat to the exact location that corresponds to that point is a crucial feature. In other words, if I pass over structure that's holding fish, I can just click on the sonar image of the structure/fish, and command the motor to take me back to that spot. The integration also allows me to use the Xi5 as a bow-thruster when I'm trolling on autopilot, using the main engines for forward movement.

If you go with a Motorguide, there's a simple mod that you have to do to prevent the Motorguide from literally falling apart. I'll have to dig up the description and photos I sent to Roger Vrooman back when he did his Motorguide installation. Every Motorguide I've seen fail, has failed in the same, easily preventable way.

 

[the_natural]

The ShuttleSlide mount does look ugly as sin. Considering your preference for something that extends forward vs. something that stands tall & ugly, I would recommend you go to a marine outfitter or welder nearby and have them machine you a stainless steel plate that exactly matches the size and hole-pattern of your OEM mount. Then sandwich that plate between the OEM mount and the base of the trolling motor (or quick-release mount). Going this route will satisfy your preference for a lower-profile mounting scheme — and you'll save money.

I have a Motorguide Xi5 integrated with my Simrad MFDs. Being able to touch any point on my MFD's chart, downscan, or sidescan display and command the trolling motor to move the boat to the exact location that corresponds to that point is a crucial feature. In other words, if I pass over structure that's holding fish, I can just click on the sonar image of the structure/fish, and command the motor to take me back to that spot. The integration also allows me to use the Xi5 as a bow-thruster when I'm trolling on autopilot, using the main engines for forward movement.

If you go with a Motorguide, there's a simple mod that you have to do to prevent the Motorguide from literally falling apart. I'll have to dig up the description and photos I sent to Roger Vrooman back when he did his Motorguide installation. Every Motorguide I've seen fail, has failed in the same, easily preventable way.

Great info, thanks! After talking with some other FSH guys, I'm going to use my upgraded OEM mount (with the cross brace and front mount holes), it seems to be working a lot better for folks. I need to get some 1/4" aluminum for the undersides.

I did get an Xi5, so I'd love to hear what the fix is to prevent the common failure, if you're able to find it.

I have a Lowrance Elite FS9, which technically can integrate with the Xi5, but allegedly you have to roll back the OS to an older version or something like that, so it's unlikely I'll do that, but it would be a cool feature.

 

[MilesPrower]

I did get an Xi5, so I'd love to hear what the fix is to prevent the common failure, if you're able to find it.

I searched for my posts describing the fix... turns out they were in a string of DMs to Roger. Instead of copy-pasting a bunch of private messages here and spamming Zack's thread, I'll link to a summary of the problem+fix that I posted publicly a couple years ago:

Post in thread '2021 FSH 252 Sport Thread'

Oct 28, 2023

Im curious, what is the motor guide design flaw that you mitigated with your modification?

The saltwater MotorGuides use stainless-steel press-fit starlock washers to hold the deployment plates together, on all of the various pins required for the mechanism to work. Stainless-steel being relatively soft — these starlock washers eventually slide right off the ends of the pins, and the deployment mechanism jams when the plates slip off one or more pins.

The real fix would be to cut a retaining-ring groove into the end of each pin, and employ an E-clip on each groove. That's...

• MilesPrower

• 

I didn't take photos, and I don't want to re-post Roger's photos that he DM'ed me... but oddly enough, if you look at Motorguide reviews on Amazon, one of the first reviews includes these photos that point out the exact problem:

Check out this Amazon review of MotorGuide Xi5 Saltwater Trolling Motor, Wireless, Bow Mount - 72-inch Shaft, 105-Pound Peak Thrust - GPS

Fell apart on first use. Starlock washers came off

www.amazon.com

My redneck fix was to:

1. Take off the plastic side plates (which you have to do to mount the motor anyway).
   
   
2. Slide each starlock washer off its pivot pin.
   
   
3. Use a mototool (e.g., Dremel) to cut a groove into the pivot pin for the starlock washer to grab.
   
   
4. Slide each starlock washer back onto its pivot pin.

The best (and most elegant) fix would be to replace all of the pivot pins with cotter-lockable clevis pins:

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