FSH hard top

[JDinfla]

Pretty easy to fit, except it doesn't seem to fit as well as the original canvas at first. I didn't tighten the strap tight as usual for a couple of days to let the canvas stretch out to to a better fit on the t top. I tightened it and smoothed out the few wrinkles on a couple of the corners over a few days and now it fits perfect.

 

[Dwayne Henderson]

I've never changed one out, but it looks fairly straight forward. Jet boat pilot guys have a little video on tightening it up. It's under pooling water on the top.

 

[Van T]

How did you drill through t top what were the steps. did you have drill the t top plate and the the down tube or are they hollow

 

[Dwayne Henderson]

I started inside, and drilled through the fibre glass and the mounting plate. I took the T top apart, and drilled out each mounting plug. The tubes are hollow, but where the bolts connect the section, those are solid inserts that are welded. They are about 2" thick. I lined up the holes I drilled so when it was put back together the wires would have a straight run. I wanted to come up the port side of the T top, so to gain access to the mounting plate inside, I had to remove the front console section. It was easy, I just took out the screws and moved the console to the side a bit so I could get my drill at the correct angle.

 

[Van T]

Did you just take the top half of the t top off ? And the console do you mean the Black middle insert with the glove box I'm trying to mount rev8 on one of the vertical down bars at the top of the t top my wire is 4 wire about 1/4 to3/16 thick do you think I have room to do this before I take the hole boat apart

 

[Dwayne Henderson]

Sorry, was off line for a couple days. Yes, I took the black middle section out. I do think you can put a 3/16 wire through, I drilled a 1/4" hole with no issue, there is lots of meat.

 

[Chadharter]

Man....that looks great.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

Very nice... I was originally thinking Aluminum (former rally car guy).

 

[Julian]

It cost about $450.00 Canadian. I think that's about $50.00 USD . The weight is about 30lbs. I tried it this weekend, and it rained, worked great. I'll send more photo's when I get the lights mounted. I ran the wires for the light through the tubes, you can see them in the top of the picture.

Is the company that made this interested in making more? I'll bet there are members here that would be interested! Tough part would be shipping it!

 

[Liveto99]

Very nice... I was originally thinking Aluminum (former rally car guy).

I have the aluminum piece cut out and ready to go. No one wants to weld to Powder coated aluminum. They say it goes into the metal and not work. So I am letting it sit for now till I get the boat back from FL. I bought ring clamps from Amazon that will go on the pipe around the hard top and then bolt the aluminum sheet to them. As soon as it happens I’ll post photos.

 

[Liveto99]

These

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

I have the aluminum piece cut out and ready to go. No one wants to weld to Powder coated aluminum. They say it goes into the metal and not work. So I am letting it sit for now till I get the boat back from FL. I bought ring clamps from Amazon that will go on the pipe around the hard top and then bolt the aluminum sheet to them. As soon as it happens I’ll post photos.

Having come from an aerospace manufacturing back ground (25 yrs ago), if there is enough meat on the upper rails, I'd just tap and screw the sheet down. Or some serious rivets (not your Home Depot 1/8 aluminum). However, what are you using (thick/alloy)?

 

[Liveto99]

I think 3/16” I will measure it. Aluminum sheet from my steel supply. I ordered stainless rivets and then I thought about it and ordered aluminum rivets from McMaster Carr for it. I figured that way I would not have dissimilar medals, they have the same tear out strength just different sheer strength. The center of the rails on the top are a little more than 5 feet apart the largest sheet I could buy standard was 5‘ x 10‘. So you could either find a larger sheet or splice them together with a joint down the center or something. The 5’ would come to the inner 1/4 of the outside rail. Also on mine the rail is off a bit, just looks like bad craftsmanship on it. I made a temple out of Masonite then cut the aluminum with a jigsaw and polished the edges. I could’ve riveted it just in the center bars but I wanted it connected to the outside edge, so I wanted it welded on the outside. I had also thought of using 5200 or some other type of adhesive on the outside but I figured it would crack under the stress. When I bring it back in the spring I’ll use those brackets on the outside. But if you come up with a better way I will gladly use that idea .Good luck and I hope you do.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

Sorry about being vague on specifics of my post... I’m on my phone again which is a pain. Staying away from dissimilar metals is not a bad idea in and of its self p). When I made the reference I was referring to the size of the hardware, and the beer can alloy used in generic hardware store 1/8 aluminum rivets. You could make those work, but I’d be inclined to create more of an aerodynamic seam (lots O holes) vs a larger, more hearty (harder alloy) rivet with greater spacing. Then again, I’m sure my solution would step the line of over kill... not necessarily a bad thing either per se.

You can absolutely use the stainless rivets. We used dissimilar fasteners all the time (Ti/Al) in the V2500 and RB211 lines. However, you would want to use an epoxy primer in each hole to help prevent reaction.

I’d have to look at it closer, but you always could make a seam down the middle with an Al strap. Again, bunch O holes though.

 

[Liveto99]

Search
GO9
Plenty on dash and pics of plotters installed

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

Thx