Greasing Intermediate Bearings - New Recommended Interval by Yamaha

[FSH 210 Sport]

The manual calls for marine grease, so that’s what I used.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

I wouldn't mess with the hose. I added grease at 10 hours until the hose seemed tight. I really have to question the credentials of a person who says grease 'gets old'. It's literally million year old dino juice.

WOW how brilliant,

 

[RobbieO]

The manual calls for marine grease, so that’s what I used.

Understood. Was it beige or red?

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

How foolish if you believe everything in the manual you would believe that every time a push button clean out plug blew it was the fault of the person who installed it and not a design flaw with the locking mechanism so is the intermediate bearing with no vent and using a grease gun will blow the seals plus grease gets thrown from moving parts and has a tough time getting in under the seals to make those last so gear lube loosens the grease and takes care of all those issues. And in the jet pump it works wonders and you will probably NEVER have to rebuild one just add gear lube to the existing grease.

 

[906Tony]

How foolish if you believe everything in the manual you would believe that every time a push button clean out plug blew it was the fault of the person who installed it and not a design flaw with the locking mechanism so is the intermediate bearing with no vent and using a grease gun will blow the seals plus grease gets thrown from moving parts and has a tough time getting in under the seals to make those last so gear lube loosens the grease and takes care of all those issues. And in the jet pump it works wonders and you will probably NEVER have to rebuild one just add gear lube to the existing grease.

Hey Jeff
Do you just use 80w90 for the intermediate bearing? Thanks

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

That will work , remember you are not removing the existing grease just making it more fluid to work better.

 

[906Tony]

That will work , remember you are not removing the existing grease just making it more fluid to work better.

Yes sounds good, thanks for the quick respons!

 

[RobbieO]

That will work , remember you are not removing the existing grease just making it more fluid to work better.

How about synthetic gear oils?

 

[HangOutdoors]

I have done mine as well as other boaters more than I can count now in the last 3 years, never an issue and never a problem. It takes a bit more effort and a bit more time. I unscrew the zerk and use dental syringe. Pretty much follow the persons advice whom has had thousands of hours on his ski's and has worked on these for quite some time. Thanks @Cobra Jet Steering LLC

 

[Cambo]

I wouldn't mess with the hose. I added grease at 10 hours until the hose seemed tight. I really have to question the credentials of a person who says grease 'gets old'. It's literally million year old dino juice.

You read a lot of info that gets posted with conflicting opinions, I thought the same thing how does grease get hard. It sure does for some reason while it sits in that hose it hardens over the years maybe it was the fourth or fifth year of owning the 2005 model someone recommended to remove the hose it seemed simple enough so I did it. The amount of force that was needed to make the hardened grease move out was amazing the hose expanded much more than it ever did before, I thought it was going to burst then slowly the old grease made its way out then flowed very quickly after that. Yamaha at some point just attached the zerk with no hose that lead to many failed seals from over filling. What I did was pull the zerk installed a threaded barb with a clear hose made a grease slurry and gently fed it into the hose using a syringe the hose was left halfway full so I have a visual inspection of when it needs more. Im not sure where it goes but it does drop over a season. To top off I remove the bolt that’s held in the hose with a zip tie creating a cap the syringe is full and ready not like my grease gun that always seems to be empty or primed from sitting.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

You read a lot of info that gets posted with conflicting opinions, I thought the same thing how does grease get hard. It sure does for some reason while it sits in that hose it hardens over the years maybe it was the fourth or fifth year of owning the 2005 model someone recommended to remove the hose it seemed simple enough so I did it. The amount of force that was needed to make the hardened grease move out was amazing the hose expanded much more than it ever did before, I thought it was going to burst then slowly the old grease made its way out then flowed very quickly after that. Yamaha at some point just attached the zerk with no hose that lead to many failed seals from over filling. What I did was pull the zerk installed a threaded barb with a clear hose made a grease slurry and gently fed it into the hose using a syringe the hose was left halfway full so I have a visual inspection of when it needs more. Im not sure where it goes but it does drop over a season. To top off I remove the bolt that’s held in the hose with a zip tie creating a cap the syringe is full and ready not like my grease gun that always seems to be empty or primed from sitting.

Over time in a high heat environment, and with a hose that allows the lighter ends of the grease to escape, the grease will become “harder”.

 

[906Tony]

You read a lot of info that gets posted with conflicting opinions, I thought the same thing how does grease get hard. It sure does for some reason while it sits in that hose it hardens over the years maybe it was the fourth or fifth year of owning the 2005 model someone recommended to remove the hose it seemed simple enough so I did it. The amount of force that was needed to make the hardened grease move out was amazing the hose expanded much more than it ever did before, I thought it was going to burst then slowly the old grease made its way out then flowed very quickly after that. Yamaha at some point just attached the zerk with no hose that lead to many failed seals from over filling. What I did was pull the zerk installed a threaded barb with a clear hose made a grease slurry and gently fed it into the hose using a syringe the hose was left halfway full so I have a visual inspection of when it needs more. Im not sure where it goes but it does drop over a season. To top off I remove the bolt that’s held in the hose with a zip tie creating a cap the syringe is full and ready not like my grease gun that always seems to be empty or primed from sitting.

Not sure how much gear lube everyone else puts in, but I was surprised how little it actually took. My boat is a 2017 with about 140 hours and only took about a quarter of a teaspoon from the syringe In each one. Curious if that’s the norm.

 

[adrianp89]

What tools are people using to do this. I’m sure it needs done on the FSH, I’ve never done it and it’s coming up on 650 hours.

 

[Judge]

I'm taking my 275SD in for the 10-Hour Service tomorrow and I'm going to talk to them about the discrepancies in both the User Manual and the Service Manual and ask them what they actually do for the 10-Hour.

The User Manual contradicts itself and mentions lubricating the bearing at 10-Hours in one place but in the Maintenance Schedule it lists to do it at 100-Hours. The Service Manual just says 100-Hours.

As far as Oil Changes go.... both the User Manual and Service Manual don't say to change the oil filter at 10-Hours or even 50-Hours. Both manuals say change the oil filters at every 100-Hours.

I'll have them replace my filters now at 10-Hours regardless of what the manuals say since the whole purpose of the 10-Hours is to remove any impurities from manufacturing and break-in.

You would like to think that the Yamaha Engineers may not read every page of the manuals to confirm they are correct, but you'd certainly think they would read the maintenance sections since that impacts the warranty line item in their budget.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Understood. Was it beige or red?

It is blue.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I'm taking my 275SD in for the 10-Hour Service tomorrow and I'm going to talk to them about the discrepancies in both the User Manual and the Service Manual and ask them what they actually do for the 10-Hour.

The User Manual contradicts itself and mentions lubricating the bearing at 10-Hours in one place but in the Maintenance Schedule it lists to do it at 100-Hours. The Service Manual just says 100-Hours.

As far as Oil Changes go.... both the User Manual and Service Manual don't say to change the oil filter at 10-Hours or even 50-Hours. Both manuals say change the oil filters at every 100-Hours.

I'll have them replace my filters now at 10-Hours regardless of what the manuals say since the whole purpose of the 10-Hours is to remove any impurities from manufacturing and break-in.

You would like to think that the Yamaha Engineers may not read every page of the manuals to confirm they are correct, but you'd certainly think they would read the maintenance sections since that impacts the warranty line item in their budget.

I posted the other day about a discrepancy in the grease amounts for the bearing cones…the amount was a pittance of what should be in there, so application of common sense is required at all times. Ergo, not changing the oil filters at 10 hour service, just the oil. To me that says the particulate in the oil is smaller than what the filter will catch and is thought to be in suspension. It’s either a mistake or it’s about “environmental“ stuff like Yamaha has done with the new engine, I suppose it could be break in oil but I haven’t heard of any manufacturers using break in oil for a long time. So oil and filters it is…

My manuals are kinda like yours, the owners manual calls for greasing the intermediate bearing at 10 hours with a specific amount of grease, the shop manual mentions nothing about the 10 hour, but calls for the 100 hour / annual greasing but no specific amount of grease. In a way that makes sense, most owners don’t have the shop manual, but every owner has an owners manual. I cannot imagine a lubricated component not benefitting from being properly lubricated. I saw a video of a guy lubricating the intermediate bearing until grease was being forced out through the mating surfaces of the bearing holder, a fine example of improper lubricating and probably messed up the seals. As others have stated in this thread, adding grease until it doesn’t freely flow, then relieving any built up pressure by pushing down on the check valve, others add grease with a syringe, but grease is being added which is a good thing. I just add grease with a grease gun and pay attention to the feel, at the slightest increase in pressure I stop.

I‘ll be looking forward to what your shop has to say about greasing the intermediate bearing.

The best thing is that after having your boat for so long and not being able to use it you are starting to rack up hours so that you to get it serviced!

 

[Judge]

I posted the other day about a discrepancy in the grease amounts for the bearing cones…the amount was a pittance of what should be in there, so application of common sense is required at all times. Ergo, not changing the oil filters at 10 hour service, just the oil. To me that says the particulate in the oil is smaller than what the filter will catch and is thought to be in suspension. It’s either a mistake or it’s about “environmental“ stuff like Yamaha has done with the new engine, I suppose it could be break in oil but I haven’t heard of any manufacturers using break in oil for a long time. So oil and filters it is…

My manuals are kinda like yours, the owners manual calls for greasing the intermediate bearing at 10 hours with a specific amount of grease, the shop manual mentions nothing about the 10 hour, but calls for the 100 hour / annual greasing but no specific amount of grease. In a way that makes sense, most owners don’t have the shop manual, but every owner has an owners manual. I cannot imagine a lubricated component not benefitting from being properly lubricated. I saw a video of a guy lubricating the intermediate bearing until grease was being forced out through the mating surfaces of the bearing holder, a fine example of improper lubricating and probably messed up the seals. As others have stated in this thread, adding grease until it doesn’t freely flow, then relieving any built up pressure by pushing down on the check valve, others add grease with a syringe, but grease is being added which is a good thing. I just add grease with a grease gun and pay attention to the feel, at the slightest increase in pressure I stop.

I‘ll be looking forward to what your shop has to say about greasing the intermediate bearing.

The best thing is that after having your boat for so long and not being able to use it you are starting to rack up hours so that you to get it serviced!

The big challenge is getting competent and properly trained service techs. A lot of shops are like rotating doors when it comes to techs, which isn't the best for quality service. Plus some dealers sell so many different manufactures that it can be hard for them to become "experts" on a particular make and model.... much like the RV industry.

My dealer has only been a Yamaha Boat dealer for a few years so hopefully they have adequate training and experience to know what to do and not do. They only sell boats and don't sell jet skis so they don't have that jet experience to fall back on. But they also sell some higher-end boats like Chris-Craft, Cobia, Pathfinder, Tiara and Regal and they have multiple locations in the area.

One of the guys on here boat their boat from them and had the 10-hour service done there and has no complaints so far. I also know there is another 275SD on the rack where I store mine and he's used them so they should have several under their belt.

We'll see!

 

[RobbieO]

The big challenge is getting competent and properly trained service techs. A lot of shops are like rotating doors when it comes to techs, which isn't the best for quality service. Plus some dealers sell so many different manufactures that it can be hard for them to become "experts" on a particular make and model.... much like the RV industry.

My dealer has only been a Yamaha Boat dealer for a few years so hopefully they have adequate training and experience to know what to do and not do. They only sell boats and don't sell jet skis so they don't have that jet experience to fall back on. But they also sell some higher-end boats like Chris-Craft, Cobia, Pathfinder, Tiara and Regal and they have multiple locations in the area.

One of the guys on here boat their boat from them and had the 10-hour service done there and has no complaints so far. I also know there is another 275SD on the rack where I store mine and he's used them so they should have several under their belt.

We'll see!

I agree about the techs that some of these dealers have. Just bought a new FXHO and ask the dealer to check the grease on the trailer bearings. After arriving home, I had grease on both sides of the hull and both seals were blown. They’re getting nowhere near my intermediate bearing that’s for damn sure.

 

[Judge]

Dropped the boat at the dealer this morning. Of course it is impossible to talk to an actual tech......

According to the Service Manual they don't change the oil filters at the 10-hour service. They change them at the 50-hour service. I questioned it and they said those are the recommendations so they follow what Yamaha recommends and that is what they have done on every jet boat they've sold. I told them ok.... since they are the Yamaha dealers and they sold me the YES Warranty then I should be covered if anything goes off the rails.

The Service Manager couldn't tell me what they do with the Intermediate Bearing lubrication. So I guess I will find out when I get the paperwork later today.

When I lived up north and had a shop and could do all my own service, I would be doing the oil filters and the bearing. But now that I live in Florida and don't have a shop or place to do it (and getting older), I've got to rely on the dealer. While that costs more and you roll the dice on it being done right, the upside is if anything happens it's on the dealer for them to get it covered under YES.

 

[lazergeek]

Dropped the boat at the dealer this morning. Of course it is impossible to talk to an actual tech......

According to the Service Manual they don't change the oil filters at the 10-hour service. They change them at the 50-hour service. I questioned it and they said those are the recommendations so they follow what Yamaha recommends and that is what they have done on every jet boat they've sold. I told them ok.... since they are the Yamaha dealers and they sold me the YES Warranty then I should be covered if anything goes off the rails.

The Service Manager couldn't tell me what they do with the Intermediate Bearing lubrication. So I guess I will find out when I get the paperwork later today.

When I lived up north and had a shop and could do all my own service, I would be doing the oil filters and the bearing. But now that I live in Florida and don't have a shop or place to do it (and getting older), I've got to rely on the dealer. While that costs more and you roll the dice on it being done right, the upside is if anything happens it's on the dealer for them to get it covered under YES.

I did the same with my 10 hour service. My issue was they did not change the spark plugs at 10 hours and when I hit 50 hours when boat was a year and half old, one spark plug broke from being seized by galvanic corrosion. My service adviser said Yamaha recommends replacing plugs ever 6 months for that reason. Of course service manual does not state that. YES does not cover items considered wear such as steering cables and apparently seized spark plugs so I was SOL and had to pay the dealer $1200 to remove the head to get the plug out. Now I always use Anti Seize and replace every 6 months whether they are bad or not.