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Just Installing a Subwoofer

Evil,
It's too late bro. Andy already cut the hole for that 10" sub. :p
 
Stop, I just left it there yesterday.. No way.
 
I talked to Andy this afternoon. He's cutting and pulling wires like a mofo!
 
LOL...Bob, you will really like the sound quality of the amp/sub/and better speakers. That is an estimate based on cranking the damn thing at a high level. Your average listening evening on the boat may not be anything like that. But I would tell you that sharing a trolling battery for stereo duties when your NOT fishing, is a noble cause and doable. So don't give up on this...your trolling motor burns through battery big time, so will a high power stereo. Your stereo will not be "high power" but it will be a moderately powered sound system...and even a moderate system will need some reserves. If your good with the money on the upgrade, don't shy from sharing battery duty with the upgrade...it will pay for itself in enjoyment! You might even get lucky out there!:winkingthumbsup"
 
I got. 10" sub, 4 6 1/2" and wired from a "1600 amp" and I ran it for 4-5 hours this weekend off the 1 battery and the boat started right up. So I guess it depends on the system. But I do recommend a jump box just in case. They are cheap insurance
 
Sorry Tim, not possible to run a 1600watt amp for 4 to 5 hours off of one battery...unless it is running at about 10% volume. I had a 700W 5 channel amp on my previous boat. A true 700W. I don't know what amp you had, but the manufacturers don't all put out real numbers. But my amp at 700W did not do 700W duty. I ran my 6 speakers in various ways with a 10" sub and assumed 380W divided by efficiency, drawing 480W divided by 13V and that is 37 amps at MAX. A conservative average is 30% and that is 13 to 14 amps at full volume. Who does that? So I was told by David (at Earmark at the time) that based on my listening habits, I would draw less than 10 amps while anchored or less per hour...and it would last me 5 hours. Now my battery system had two group 24 AGM 95 amp/hour batteries that would be isolated at that point, so I was depending on a single battery.

Bob, if you run your stereo conservatively, your still going to use over twice the battery capacity that I did. But...if you play it any louder than easy listening volume...1.5 hours max. These are conservative estimates. You may get more, you may get less. But it will be based on what you have and how you use it. @tim2808 , I am not disputing you, I am just saying that a high power amp will take battery capacity. I fly for a living...I ain't leaving my wellbeing or that of my family (or yours) up to chance. These are motorcycle engines, and they take far less to turn over and start than your amplifier takes to power up. There are many guys on the forum that would attest to having run the battery dry with the stereo and still had power to start the boat. But that may be where your problems start too. Planning your fuel load to zero isn't a good idea.
 
And to note...I didn't run the math on the above, I assumed (bad idea to begin with) based on what my 700W system took to power vs a 1600W system. It is use vs available amps.
 
Thanks Tim, My boat is set up with a 24 volt system, 2 separate batteries for just my Trolling motor so I have 2 expensive jump boxes on board just in case.
Mel, If I do indeed kill the house I will go for the sharing option. I would rather not complicate the wiring any more than I already have cause its quite simple right now. More switches and connections more opportunity for failure or stupidity:facepalm:
 
LOL...yeah, I can get on board with the ability to turn stupid! I gotta keep it simple...and draw pictures, lots of pictures! lol Don't turn back on the stereo Bob...I am anxious to hear about it!
 
Yeah I said "1600 watt amp" in quotes because it can't possibly be (Fusion MS-DA51600 amp). We were running it at about 40-50% power each day over the past weekend for the entire afternoon, charging it at the house each night. I agree this is not ideal on a single battery but it worked just fine for us on the lake. And we always have the jump box just in case, mainly because that was a cheaper option then adding another battery, wires, switches, chargers, etc.
 
That must be photoshopped, how in the hell do they get all the speaker wires to those things. Definitely not inside the tower.
Not photoshopped... Here are a few pi20140524_071656.jpg 20140524_071638.jpg cs taken in the channel at havasu on memorial weekend myself... Loud and clear, but we all agreed we wanted him no where near us when he beached...
 
The owner must be SERIOUSLY compensating for something! That is just plain stupid. And in the first pic, I would love to have been a cop.....talk about dangerously overloading a boat!

@Evil Sports - not really hard at all to add a 2nd battery....will give you peace of mind....but if you think you can jump off the 24v trolling batteries...perhaps you already have that.
 
Sub installed also had the bulb seal added to the engine hatch area. I have not picked it up yet for sound test.
 

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Well I did say that but Im not gonna go all ape shit and do a set up that requires its own battery. I firmly believe this is the limit of my stereo upgrade. :p

LOL
 
That's exactly where Andy mounted mine. It sounds awesome! Subwoofer.jpg
 
He likes that spot, mine is in the same location.
 
I can't wait to hear an IB sub in person. I am going to change my setup but i want to hear one before i purchase 2 of them.
 
Sorry Tim, not possible to run a 1600watt amp for 4 to 5 hours off of one battery...unless it is running at about 10% volume. I had a 700W 5 channel amp on my previous boat. A true 700W. I don't know what amp you had, but the manufacturers don't all put out real numbers. But my amp at 700W did not do 700W duty. I ran my 6 speakers in various ways with a 10" sub and assumed 380W divided by efficiency, drawing 480W divided by 13V and that is 37 amps at MAX. A conservative average is 30% and that is 13 to 14 amps at full volume. Who does that? So I was told by David (at Earmark at the time) that based on my listening habits, I would draw less than 10 amps while anchored or less per hour...and it would last me 5 hours. Now my battery system had two group 24 AGM 95 amp/hour batteries that would be isolated at that point, so I was depending on a single battery.

Bob, if you run your stereo conservatively, your still going to use over twice the battery capacity that I did. But...if you play it any louder than easy listening volume...1.5 hours max. These are conservative estimates. You may get more, you may get less. But it will be based on what you have and how you use it. @tim2808 , I am not disputing you, I am just saying that a high power amp will take battery capacity. I fly for a living...I ain't leaving my wellbeing or that of my family (or yours) up to chance. These are motorcycle engines, and they take far less to turn over and start than your amplifier takes to power up. There are many guys on the forum that would attest to having run the battery dry with the stereo and still had power to start the boat. But that may be where your problems start too. Planning your fuel load to zero isn't a good idea.


watt ratings do not equate to power draw...different models/styles/brands are all different depending on the technology used to create the power....

for reference, I have a 600w sub amp, 4x100 and 2x150 currently installed, all alpine pdx amps...on memorial weekend we played for about 6 hours w/volumes ranging from 50-80% as well as another 3-4 hours at lower volumes on one battery and did not charge as I didn't have access to shore power overnight

to the OP, congrats on the upgrade, i'm sure you'll love it when you get your chance to listen!!!! :)
 
I added this sub to my Ar192. I have the polk's too and they are pretty sweet. That's 10" Fusion sub. I'll be installing the amp in about a week. I'm going to run the polk's, the sub, and my 2 towers off it (5 channel amp). View attachment 5904


Is this the best location to mount a sub on the 190/192 boats?
 
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