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LED Store 6” oval red LED trailer tail lights, it has 10 super bright LED colored lights that can deliver full visibility at night. Submersible in water and waterproof
That connects to the connection plug between your truck and trailer. Should be brown for both brake lights, yellow and green for turn signals and white for ground.
brown is for all marker lights (at night)
yellow left turn/brake
green right turn/brake
white ground
My 2 cents - I always unplug as I'm prepping the boat for launch so the bulbs are cold when the trailer hits the water. This ensures my vehicle is protected from any potential shorts. This also means the surge brake lockout is not energized, but I use a magnetic lockout pin to release the brakes for backing into the water. Been doing this for years so it's routine.
brown is for all marker lights (at night)
yellow left turn/brake
green right turn/brake
white ground
My 2 cents - I always unplug as I'm prepping the boat for launch so the bulbs are cold when the trailer hits the water. This ensures my vehicle is protected from any potential shorts. This also means the surge brake lockout is not energized, but I use a magnetic lockout pin to release the brakes for backing into the water. Been doing this for years so it's routine.
@SCP1 Yup, bought a two pack of the orange ones in case one breaks or is lost. The magnet holds it in securely so no fussing with the stock key shipped with the trailer that is designed to fall out when you pull forward. I pop it in as soon as I unplug the light cord.
@SCP1 Yup, bought a two pack of the orange ones in case one breaks or is lost. The magnet holds it in securely so no fussing with the stock key shipped with the trailer that is designed to fall out when you pull forward. I pop it in as soon as I unplug the light cord.
You could, I just put the cord in the holder beside the tongue. I'm not too concerned with it getting splashed, just don't want it dunked when it's live and connected to the truck.
Ok guys I’m done replacing bulbs looking for a full LED replacement for both sides. Thinking like take the old one off and smash it and put a new LED unit on. Do you guys have any recommendations on a preferred vendor or part number?
I just purchased submersible LED trailer lamps from etrailer.com. My new Shorelandr trailer (2021) came with incandescent bulbs which are not even sealed. For $60, you can replace both rear lamps, and the rear marker strip with sealed LED's. I was told by the dealer to leave my trailer plugged in when launching because I need to keep the brake bypass solenoid active. I was told my trailer had sealed LED's so I shouldn't have any issues. When I checked the lamps, I was appalled to see bulbs that I could touch with my finger. $5k for a trailer, and they don't even give you LED stop lamps. CAF.
I can give you my recommendation on the specs you should look for based on my experience. Definitely LED instead of incandescent. Look for submersible lights with tinned wires. Not sure if you launch in saltwater but untinned wire will corrode because the saltwater permeates the insulation.
I know most don’t but I always unplug before launching. Old habit. Before LED’s I used to coat the incandescent bulbs with clear silicon rubber and this reduced the chance of the hot bulb popping.
To back the trailer when I unplug the lights I would plug in just the last connector for the brake. Just turn the flat plug at a 90 degree angle. Since I launch in saltwater I changed to a military plug that won’t corrode. Got tired of cleaning the corroded plug every time. Now to bypass the brake I just stick in the hitch coupling locking pin to the prevent the coupling brake from collapsing. Etrailer is a good source for LED’s. Most suppliers don’t know if their light wires are tinned or not. Not an issue if you are only fresh water guy.
I can give you my recommendation on the specs you should look for based on my experience. Definitely LED instead of incandescent. Look for submersible lights with tinned wires. Not sure if you launch in saltwater but untinned wire will corrode because the saltwater permeates the insulation.
I know most don’t but I always unplug before launching. Old habit. Before LED’s I used to coat the incandescent bulbs with clear silicon rubber and this reduced the chance of the hot bulb popping.
To back the trailer when I unplug the lights I would plug in just the last connector for the brake. Just turn the flat plug at a 90 degree angle. Since I launch in saltwater I changed to a military plug that won’t corrode. Got tired of cleaning the corroded plug every time. Now to bypass the brake I just stick in the hitch coupling locking pin to the prevent the coupling brake from collapsing. Etrailer is a good source for LED’s. Most suppliers don’t know if their light wires are tinned or not. Not an issue if you are only fresh water guy.
LED is the way to go. I have them on all of my trailers, toy hauler to boat. I put IP67 on anything other than a boat/jet ski trailer and IP68 rated for the latter. 67 gives you dust and submersion protection for 1 meter for 30 minutes, 68 gives you fully sealed to 10 meters or no damage if water does intrude. IP68 is a bit more spendy.... but lasts longer.
Yup I'll be ordering a set from my local dealer this spring to replace the stock bulb set - they're not terribly bright during the day and I want brighter brake lights. There's a kit available that has the left/right lights plus an LED center marker replacement. The rest of the marker lights on the trailer are already LED. Everything is plug and play in the kit - the part number is TA0126 per Shoreland'r
I ordered these on Monday and they hit the deck Friday. Install was plug n play and I can’t believe how bright they are. Major improvement! The left side has a light for the plate and the right does not so make sure you order both part numbers.