Lumitec Seablaze X on an AR240

[Mark]

Hello everybody! I am coming here in hopes that someone can help me out. I just got a set of the Seablaze X lights for the boat. Has anyone put some of these on? how did you handle the curve on the transom? I was thinking about putting three on one between the jets, and one on the outside of each jet. the problem is the transom is curved out there. Were you able to mount it with the curve or did you build some kind of pedestal to put it on?

 

[tdonoughue]

Don't have one and haven't tried. But, I do recall seeing the 2nd post here...

https://jetboaters.net/threads/optimal-location-to-mount-transom-mount-transducer.2719/

Does that help any?

 

[billyb]

edit:

Sorry, wrong topic.

 

[txav8r]

Howdy @Mark , welcome aboard! The curved surfaces do present a few challenges but they are easily overcome. The vendors out there that modify boats for a living use King Starboard mostly when they need to build a bezel or face frame to help with an install. King Starboard is an HDPE product that is very machinable and totally waterproof. A novice approach to machining the material so that you can make a bezel to go behind the lights to take the curve out of the mounting surface, would be to sand down the face that sits against the transom. The curve needs to match the curve of the transom obviously. You will need only enough thickness of the bezel to eliminate the curve, yet give stability to the bezel itself, and a 3/4" sheet of King Starboard of 12" by 12" is probably big enough for two, but you may want a 12"x18" or even a 12"x24" for some extra, in case you mess one up. I have taken a belt sander to the stuff to rough out the shape quickly, then taken a 8.5"x11" sheet of 80 grit sandpaper and fixed it where the light will mount on the transom with double sided tape. Then I just work the bezel back and forth across the length (back and forth in the U of the curve, not up and down) of the curve to finish the face of the bezel to match. This doesn't take as much work as it sounds like. Then you mount the light to the bezel and the bezel to the transom, using a high grade poly waterproof sealant like LifeCaulk or 3M 4200. Resist the temptation to use plain marine grade silicone or 3M 5200. The silicone will dry and lose its flexibility long before the poly based caulks, and the 5200 is far too brittle and permanent, and won't allow the needed flexibility between dissimilar surfaces. Welcome to the forum and good luck with the install!

 

[Mark]

Thanks for the reply's everyone. Sorry it took me so long to get back. (been very busy at work). I will try out the Starboard. And the directions you gave txav8r. Wish me luck! If anyone else has any ideas please share!

 

[Mark]

I know it has been a while since I started this posting. But I have gotten the lights worked out. Took some elbow grease and several hours of sanding to get' done. But I am very happy with the results. I went the king starboard route and didn't look back! Not the clearest water but I am happy. More photos later of the boat in motion. Thanks to everyone for all the help!

 

[tdonoughue]

Very nice! Congratulations on a nice install!

 

[Mark]

Thanks! Wasn't that bad to do, just very scary putting all those holes in the transom. I also made a drop light with some Pvc and strip lights that impressed me very much. I'll try to get some pics of them together soon.

 

[shane hric]

Hello everybody! I am coming here in hopes that someone can help me out. I just got a set of the Seablaze X lights for the boat. Has anyone put some of these on? how did you handle the curve on the transom? I was thinking about putting three on one between the jets, and one on the outside of each jet. the problem is the transom is curved out there. Were you able to mount it with the curve or did you build some kind of pedestal to put it on?

Mark, I bought the Seablaze X lights too for my 15 242 LS and plan on using your post for guidance. How are the lights working out so far?

 

[shane hric]

Howdy @Mark , welcome aboard! The curved surfaces do present a few challenges but they are easily overcome. The vendors out there that modify boats for a living use King Starboard mostly when they need to build a bezel or face frame to help with an install. King Starboard is an HDPE product that is very machinable and totally waterproof. A novice approach to machining the material so that you can make a bezel to go behind the lights to take the curve out of the mounting surface, would be to sand down the face that sits against the transom. The curve needs to match the curve of the transom obviously. You will need only enough thickness of the bezel to eliminate the curve, yet give stability to the bezel itself, and a 3/4" sheet of King Starboard of 12" by 12" is probably big enough for two, but you may want a 12"x18" or even a 12"x24" for some extra, in case you mess one up. I have taken a belt sander to the stuff to rough out the shape quickly, then taken a 8.5"x11" sheet of 80 grit sandpaper and fixed it where the light will mount on the transom with double sided tape. Then I just work the bezel back and forth across the length (back and forth in the U of the curve, not up and down) of the curve to finish the face of the bezel to match. This doesn't take as much work as it sounds like. Then you mount the light to the bezel and the bezel to the transom, using a high grade poly waterproof sealant like LifeCaulk or 3M 4200. Resist the temptation to use plain marine grade silicone or 3M 5200. The silicone will dry and lose its flexibility long before the poly based caulks, and the 5200 is far too brittle and permanent, and won't allow the needed flexibility between dissimilar surfaces. Welcome to the forum and good luck with the install!

This is some awesome guidance! I will be installing a set of three Seablaze X lights on my 15 242 LS. GREAT POST!

 

[Julian]

Do keep in mind that when you are on plane the jet pumps are out of the water, so these lights would be also. This might cause your local water patrol to pull you over if you run with them on plane. The lower you place them, the closer to the water they will be and less chance of this happening.

Nice install @Mark !

 

[Mark]

Thanks guys! The lights are placed as low as I could get them and be comfortable with the placement. I have not hung my head over the edge to see if they are out of the water on plane. @Julian Pretty sure they are. But acording to lumitech they are safe for the lights to do so. @shane hric they are working great! The only problem if you want to call it that is when they are cycling from blue to white on the auto cycle they are not in sync. But I love the output! Those pics are in some pretty dingy water!

 

[txav8r]

The entire transom is out of the water on plane. The water is displaced under the entire hull on a planing hull. Less concern about heat on the lights but need to be aware that even if local authorities don't stop or ticket you, that you may be creating a real danger with them. It is next to impossible at night, to identify the red/green navigation lights and certainly can't see the white light, when LEDs are back flashing off the rooster tail behind the boat. LEDs are incredibly blinding. No risk imo, when no other boat is crossing or trailing. But with other traffic around you, they look cool, but they are totally blinding. And in addition to blinding other boaters, the severely reduce your own night vision. Looks like a great install @Mark !

 

[Mark]

Thanks @txav8r! To be honest I use them more for night fishing than anything else! I add a 4 foot led light strip tube I made up. They both put out some amazing light. Draws in minnows like they are going out of style!
I don't run them much when going across the water on plane. If it is real dark it actually is bright enough to effect my vision. Would I do them again? Absolutely!

 

[Trevor Shipman]

OK...

(2) SeaBlaze X lights coming in today - Check!
(1) 12x12 sheet of 3/4" starboard coming in today - Check!

I'm making progress, ha! 2 questions if you dont mind chiming in again @txav8r

1. The placement, I'm going to put mine in the same spot you did (outside the jets) when the boat is on plane, I'm pretty sure they are partially out of the water, arent they? Is that ok? The pictures is actually a slow motion video on YouTube of my boat on plane that I took last year. Looks to me like they will kinda sorta be out of water but partially in. Think the placement is ok?



Video link:

2. Wiring, do you wire straight to the battery or did you tie into your exsisting light? Whats the best option? I assume I need to run an inline fuse too?

I'm pumped to get these babies installed!

 

[Bill D]

From the SeaBlaze FAQ, it looks like they will be fine to run out of the water. Especially when they will only be out of the water while you're running.

You'll want some short-circuit protection, either a fuse of circuit breaker. Mine is on a fuse with a switch at the helm. They're gonna look great. Can't wait to see pictures.

 

[Bill D]

Here is the info from the SeaBlaze site.

 

[Trevor Shipman]

Here is the info from the SeaBlaze site.

View attachment 35016

Yeah thanks @Bill D I saw that as well, I guess my question is will I get the affect I'm looking for if I put them where @Mark put his. His is a 240 mine is an 06 210 not sure if they they sit higher or lower on plane?

 

[Bill D]

I'm not sure, your video has me curious what mine looks like when I'm running. Looks like a mission for the GoPro...

I'd bet it is about the same though. My light sits about even with the pumps and gives that "flame" look. But I only have the one light.

 

[Trevor Shipman]

Thanks @Bill D thats about the height I was thinking as well. How about wiring? Did you tap into existing light (stern light)? Or run straight to the battery?