Ordered Hyundai Ioniq 5 today

[Jim_in_Delaware]

- That design is pretty polarizing, however 4/5 of agreed it was good. One hated it. Seems to be the trend now days. I like it after seeing one in person out in CA a few months ago.

Put me in the 4 out of 5 category. I think the 5th guy probably thinks this is more stylish :

Jim

 

[2kwik4u]

Put me in the 4 out of 5 category. I think the 5th guy probably thinks this is more stylish :

Jim

Naw, I think the 5th guy wants us all driving around in 60's era muscle cars.

I like the R1S better than the Ioniq 5, but don't hold any grudges either way.

 

[ripler]

• Home charging is where it's at for most of us. However only 3/5 of us have enough service to provide 60A for a dedicated charger. The other two live in smaller homes that only have 100A service into the building. No idea how that equates to charging with other normal loads on the system, but we all seemed to agree it feels like shaving it close.

I'm sure all of the people who are pushing EVs have this all figured out along with all of the other issues with charging an EV at home.

 

[2kwik4u]

I'm sure all of the people who are pushing EVs have this all figured out along with all of the other issues with charging an EV at home.

I sense the snark.......and to be clear we ALL firmly believed we have to move away from fossil fuels as a primary source of energy for transportation. Waiting until we have every single finite detail figured out will be to late. So we push now, and the details will sus themselves out.

3 things to do in life. The right thing, the wrong thing, and nothing. NEVER be the last on that list. EV's might not be the right thing, but they're not nothing.

 

[Julian]

I sense the snark.......and to be clear we ALL firmly believed we have to move away from fossil fuels as a primary source of energy for transportation. Waiting until we have every single finite detail figured out will be to late. So we push now, and the details will sus themselves out.

3 things to do in life. The right thing, the wrong thing, and nothing. NEVER be the last on that list. EV's might not be the right thing, but they're not nothing.

I don't look at EVs being right or wrong....they are a new approach to daily driving (far from a new technology), and as far as I'm concerned they are a far better solution for a daily driver. Massivey better conversion of energy to motion (2000 moving parts in an ICE causes friction, which causes heat, which results in energy loss - an ICE is like 40% efficient, and EV more like 80%), better acceleration, lower center of gravity (safer), quiet, more spacious, less maintenance, no trips to the gas station. Is it perfect....not yet, but it works for my setup.


@adrianp89 so looking at Juicebox chargers and wondering if getting the plug in version might be the best way to go? Thoughts?

Plug-in JuiceBoxes come with either a 240-volt NEMA 14-50P plug or a 240-volt NEMA 6-50P plug, which connect to a NEMA 14-50R or NEMA 6-50R receptacle often used for high-powered household items. The NEMA plug is more flexible than a hardwire set up, because it allows you to take JuiceBox with you on the go — either when traveling on a trip, or the next time you move residences.​

 

[Julian]

The other two live in smaller homes that only have 100A service into the building.

I'm seeing some interesting charging options that, for example, allow you to share an existing circuit for a dryer for example. The charger senses if the dryer is running, and if not charges the car. Pretty cool work around for the house with limited power.

 

[Jim_in_Delaware]

Yeah - need to know what it comes with. A level 1 is a no-go, especially for full EV. Level 2 is 100% the way to go, and the higher amperage the better. Even if you have a 220v it is probably on a 30amp breaker. Add a 60amp breaker and some 6/3 wire to really enjoy fast charging and future proof your self. That is what we did for the Tesla. For the Jeep it is overkill but still leaves us good for any future EVs.

For the Jeep we bought this charger:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HKLCXPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For yours I would like at a minimum a 40 amp charger.... but if the car can accept higher than go the with highest and upgrade your panel accordingly.

Also be aware of outlet type (of what you install and what you buy) They can look similar but are different. (NEMA 14-50 vs 6-50)

You are probably aware - but installing breakers is very easy. No need to pay someone $1000 to do it. Hardest put is running wire through the attic, if needed.

I installed a 240V outlet in the basement of our last house (for my wife's kiln). Like you note, it was pretty easy to do. The hardest part was running the wire as I need to cut and then patch the drywall to get access to where the wire ran (including at the breaker box.)

Really simple to use charger that you link. I'm amazed at how the home charging technology has evolved.

Jim

 

[Mesa50]

I saw an Ioniq 5 in Durham a few weeks ago. I thought it looked pretty neat. It had Virginia plates, and I was wondering if it made it all the way without stopping.

 

[BlkGS]

Guy at work has an ionic. I think it's OK looking sometimes, but ugly others. It has some awkward panels that are ugly, but the front is OK? It's probably the right sort of vehicle to make an EV mainstream though, as it seems like an overall sensible car. No idea how much they cost, but at 30 to 40k it'd have a value prop vs like a camry.

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

@Julian I would for sure get a plug in. They are cheaper and portable.

 

[JetPowered]

Consider a Tesla charger with the J-1772 plug. It is middle of the road in price, is UL listed and amperage selectable, meaning if you don't have capacity in your panel for 60 amp breakers, go down in charing amperage to something you can support.

J1772 Wall Connector

Our J1772 Wall Connector is a convenient charging solution for Tesla and non-Tesla electric vehicles alike, and is ideal for houses, apartments, hospitality properties and workplaces. With up to 44 miles of range added per hour, a 24-foot cable, multiple power settings and a versatile...

shop.tesla.com

Also consider adding energy monitoring into your panel(s) NOW and seeing how much you actually consume. It may help guide your choices on what charger/capacity you will need.

https://shop.emporiaenergy.com/collections/emporia-products

Last, read that new tax codes. Credit for chargers and associate installation is back! 30% credit on up to $1000 install costs.

https://www.kiplinger.com/taxes/605201/federal-tax-credit-for-electric-vehicle-chargers

 

[Julian]

consider adding energy monitoring into your panel(s) NOW and seeing how much you actually consume.

Most of the chargers I'm looking at have an app that tells me in great detail how much I consume. My neighbor who has solar does have a system that identifies everything in his house and tells him how much electricity it is using. Pretty cool, but not sure its saved him anything.

The charger tax credit info is good to know (surprised none of the sites I've been looking have that in big letters somewhere). I may want to install it this year as my tax burden this year will be far higher than next year.

 

[JetPowered]

True and sometimes more data is just noise. But I've had a few examples recently that have made me want to have a little more data. 1) Had a bad contactor on a outdoor roof AC condenser at a rental condo, only knew it was stuck on because of a fluke leak that made me shut down my internal AC unit and cause the unit to over cool. Could have cost me hundreds of dollars in electricity before the problem would have been identified. 2) Had another AC unit at home blow a coil, causing electric heat to stay on longer or AC to run continuously. 3) Failed heat element in 2 element water heater. All three would have been noticed sooner if usage had been monitored.

But my use case is more practical than that. I have a 200 amp panel on the opposite side of the house from the garage, with a 60 amp subpanel in the garage. Pulling new cable into the garage for vehicle charger is going to cost thousands of dollars, may be able to do a smaller 20 or 30 amp breaker direct from sub panel to charger (10 feet versus 100+ feet) if I can map out my usage and time of usage. Cost of monitoring unit is cheaper than a date with the electrician.

 

[mwalker4]

I'm putting together a plan which combines my Prepper tendencies with helping with the carbon issue and hopefully saving a bit of money over the long term:
1. 30' x 36' RV, Boat, and Auto shop barn with 15KW of solar panels on the roof. (Including a two post lift of course)
2. An EV with bidirectional interface so I can use it as a battery backup for house and charge with solar when possible.
3. Leverage Uncle Sam's Gov'ment money to do the above where possible.

Here is an article on the F150 as a battery back up. It is equivalent to 7 Tesla Powerwalls so its actually a great deal. There are starting to be more EV's planning this capability. Can Your EV Power Your House? (caranddriver.com)

 

[Beachbummer]

Now I need to decide on which home charger is best...any advice here?

Heads up, the charger is just a relay with a comn board, when the car says give me juice, the charger connects the car to the house wiring. No voltage regulation/conversion, just big relay, clack, done.


For home, being the cheap man I am, found a model on ebay meant for the UK market for $300. Cut the cable and wired it to the house.

The more amps the better, as long as the car can support it, but for home use, I don't think there's really any difference in what the charger provides, except for Max output. (Which is important, but also depends on the available wiring and panel capacity for you, but not so much on the charger)

 

[Julian]

Heads up, the charger is just a relay with a comn board, when the car says give me juice, the charger connects the car to the house wiring. No voltage regulation/conversion, just big relay, clack, done.


For home, being the cheap man I am, found a model on ebay meant for the UK market for $300. Cut the cable and wired it to the house.

The more amps the better, as long as the car can support it, but for home use, I don't think there's really any difference in what the charger provides, except for Max output. (Which is important, but also depends on the available wiring and panel capacity for you, but not so much on the charger)

As long as it has the ability to be scheduled (and even better - to interface with your power company) I think you are correct. What I've found so far is:

• Chargers are out of stock in a number of places.
• Seems that 40amps is the most you can do for a plug in type (which I am leaning towards as I could take it with me on the road - for example - going to my brothers house - his dryer is right next to the garage so I could plug in there)
• Longer cord the better - adds cost, but I can see how it would be helpful....see bullet 2.
• Having the ability to track usage and consumption will be interesting-most offer this.
• Uber offers a discount on EnelX chargers ($80 off MSRP - but since they are on sale now for $50 off its really only $30 off) (Uber also gets you $2000 off a Chevy Volt....so if you are about to buy one....sign up for uber first!!!)

 

[Beachbummer]

Mine is a dumb box. The car was still able to handle scheduling.

I could not find anyone willing to sell me energy at a better price for night charging in my area. I don't schedule anymore, just plug it in wherever.

I find this works best for me because my volt only has a few miles of range, the faster it's back to fully charged, the more likely I can use more range if I need to use the car unexpectedly.

Enjoy the adventure, electric torque and the silence is a lot of fun!

 

[ripler]

As long as it has the ability to be scheduled (and even better - to interface with your power company) I think you are correct. What I've found so far is:

• Chargers are out of stock in a number of places.
• Seems that 40amps is the most you can do for a plug in type (which I am leaning towards as I could take it with me on the road - for example - going to my brothers house - his dryer is right next to the garage so I could plug in there)
• Longer cord the better - adds cost, but I can see how it would be helpful....see bullet 2.
• Having the ability to track usage and consumption will be interesting-most offer this.
• Uber offers a discount on EnelX chargers ($80 off MSRP - but since they are on sale now for $50 off its really only $30 off) (Uber also gets you $2000 off a Chevy Volt....so if you are about to buy one....sign up for uber first!!!)

Be careful buying chargers off of ebay and Amazon, a lot of electrical products on these sites do not carry a UL certification. There are a lot of products on both sites that are misleading about actually having a UL certification. UL certification isn't cheap and that's why they can offer their chargers at a lower price. It would suck to burn down your house because of a junk charger. Your insurance may not cover your loss if they found out the charger that caused the fire didn’t have a UL certification.

If you have any doubts about whether a product has gone through the UL safety process and has certification send me the product info and I can check for certification. I have access the the entire database of UL certified products, if the product isn't in the database it's not UL certified.

 

[Julian]

@Julian I would for sure get a plug in. They are cheaper and portable.

I ended up getting a hard wired one as they go to 48amps vs only 40 for the plug in style. It will be mounted right next to the circuit breaker. The wire on the Juicebox is 6 guage....the distance from the end of the juicebox wire to the breaker is about 6 feet....the juicebox only gives me 3 feet, so what sort of wire do I buy to extend from the breaker to the juice box? Any
tips on:
1) Type of wire to buy for that 3 feet run (do they make rolmex that can handle that voltage with 3 wires - 2 main and a ground?)
2) Best way to join the 3 wires (this is in the garage, so an exposed junction box was what I was planning)
3) Places to buy the wire

Any other tips appreciated!!!

 

[Bruce]

@Julian you can buy 6/3, 6/2, 8/3 and 8/2 romex by the foot at an electrical supply or hardware store.

Since the box has 6 gauge leads and you will be paying for any current loss on the wire I would go with 6/3 or 6/2. 6/3 has three shielded conductors and an unshielded ground.

I would go with an inwall box with an access panel then use large wire nuts to join the wires.