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Rear access panel water leak fix.

Dagenham Dave

Active Member
Messages
17
Reaction score
9
Points
32
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2019
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
21
I am thankful the many threads on water getting into the bilge. I have this issue on the 2019 sx210 that I recently bought, and I believe the cause is water is leaking through the rear access panel that is between the clean out ports. I am looking for options of how to fix this leak, and if anyone has successfully done this, I would appreciate a description of what you did.
 
I am thankful the many threads on water getting into the bilge. I have this issue on the 2019 sx210 that I recently bought, and I believe the cause is water is leaking through the rear access panel that is between the clean out ports. I am looking for options of how to fix this leak, and if anyone has successfully done this, I would appreciate a description of what you did.
This is what most people use to fix that issue
 
I am thankful the many threads on water getting into the bilge. I have this issue on the 2019 sx210 that I recently bought, and I believe the cause is water is leaking through the rear access panel that is between the clean out ports. I am looking for options of how to fix this leak, and if anyone has successfully done this, I would appreciate a description of what you did.
Have you sealed the clean out tray ?
 
I am thankful the many threads on water getting into the bilge. I have this issue on the 2019 sx210 that I recently bought, and I believe the cause is water is leaking through the rear access panel that is between the clean out ports. I am looking for options of how to fix this leak, and if anyone has successfully done this, I would appreciate a description of what you did.

No need for guesswork when it's an easy test to see if that's the first place you have water coming in.

Plug the cleanout tray drain if you have one, and start filling the area with the garden hose. Take off that inspection hatch to see if you have leaks around the cleanout tray edges (look inside the opening to see if there's any drips).

If not, then adding a riser to that inspection hatch is easy, either buy @JetBoatPilot's 3D printed riser, or buy a cutting board and fabricate one like I did.

Some sealant on the edges and seams of the riser, and you should have eliminated water from at least one trouble spot
 
To see how bad the water leaks put a cork in the drain hole that is in the clean out area fill it with hose water it just dumps through almost as fast as the hose fills it . Its mainly the entire clean out tray mine was sealed with a neo prene gasket and more screws. Also did the same to the inspection port then added a one way spa valve to the drain so most of the water can only drain.

The final repair was pulling back the rub rail and sealed that up I'm 95% water free in the bilge. I think its mostly rain water getting in

water out.jpg
 
Thanks to all. Looks like I have a little work to do.
 
I removed the cleanout tray and resealed everything with silicone. I was surprised how distorted the tray is and I think this was the main problem. Installed a riser and sealed it. The inspection door is a little distorted, so I put screws around the edge to hold it down. The bilge has been bone dry for a while now. A boat that leaks REALLY bothers me, so many thanks to all that helped.
 
I removed the cleanout tray and resealed everything with silicone. I was surprised how distorted the tray is and I think this was the main problem. Installed a riser and sealed it. The inspection door is a little distorted, so I put screws around the edge to hold it down. The bilge has been bone dry for a while now. A boat that leaks REALLY bothers me, so many thanks to all that helped.

That’s totally awesome!!! Thank you for closing the loop on this!

Now you could get a couple of O rings from @Spooky pantz to seal up your clean out tubes….
 
I was surprised how distorted the tray is and I think this was the main problem.

You probably have the same one I do. It seems like the design was a purposeful, and stupid, choice.

It's formed to create a V, with a kink in the center that will never sit flat against the deck, meaning it will never seal properly from the underside, and will require sealant on the outside edge to keep water out, in addition to the riser.

If you install the riser, the screws aren't needed at all, and you can keep the hatch cover in OEM condition. There's a rubber o-ring underneath, but it's decorative at best, without topside pressure to keep the hatch pressed against it for an okay seal.

The riser is THE best solution for that hatch, as you don't want to have to fiddle with screws in the event of an emergency - that's your preliminary look, before you have to pull MORE screws from the tray. The less to deal with in an emergency, the better your chances for quick recovery.

Hopefully you used some silicone on the cleanout tubes when reassembling, as some have reported water that fills the tubes will seep into the bilge if that seal is broken or nonexistent. The check valve on the tray drain and the O-rings on the cleanout plugs should keep the tubes dry, but keep that in mind for future reference
 
You probably have the same one I do. It seems like the design was a purposeful, and stupid, choice.

It's formed to create a V, with a kink in the center that will never sit flat against the deck, meaning it will never seal properly from the underside, and will require sealant on the outside edge to keep water out, in addition to the riser.

If you install the riser, the screws aren't needed at all, and you can keep the hatch cover in OEM condition. There's a rubber o-ring underneath, but it's decorative at best, without topside pressure to keep the hatch pressed against it for an okay seal.

The riser is THE best solution for that hatch, as you don't want to have to fiddle with screws in the event of an emergency - that's your preliminary look, before you have to pull MORE screws from the tray. The less to deal with in an emergency, the better your chances for quick recovery.

Hopefully you used some silicone on the cleanout tubes when reassembling, as some have reported water that fills the tubes will seep into the bilge if that seal is broken or nonexistent. The check valve on the tray drain and the O-rings on the cleanout plugs should keep the tubes dry, but keep that in mind for future reference
I wouldn't seal it, i did this with a thick adhesive backed weatherstrip from lowes it is thick enough to make up any distortion and keeps water out and no need to keep sealing it. And no clean up with easy removal
20240625_163751.jpg
 
I wouldn't seal it, i did this with a thick adhesive backed weatherstrip from lowes it is thick enough to make up any distortion and keeps water out and no need to keep sealing it. And no clean up with easy removal
View attachment 240175

I did that with mine as well.

I'm guessing it will depend on each individual tray, but the design of mine, and I think @Dagenham Dave's is so creased in the center, it causes a gap on both sides that doesn't seem able to be sealed, short of sealant around the edges

You can sorta see the issue in this pic, for reference

1000043482.jpg
 
That’s totally awesome!!! Thank you for closing the loop on this!

Now you could get a couple of O rings from @Spooky pantz to seal up your clean out tubes….
Great idea. I'm sure Yamaha didn't intend them to leak, and they have done a terrible job of stopping that water from getting into the bilge. It's always bothered me that you are wasting fuel and thrust to push water overboard and into the boat. I already ordered a pack of 10 from Amazon. However, after reading the posts, I am still not totally sure where they fit. Do you just put them at the bottom of the inspection holes?
 
Great idea. I'm sure Yamaha didn't intend them to leak, and they have done a terrible job of stopping that water from getting into the bilge. It's always bothered me that you are wasting fuel and thrust to push water overboard and into the boat. I already ordered a pack of 10 from Amazon. However, after reading the posts, I am still not totally sure where they fit. Do you just put them at the bottom of the inspection holes?
Read that…

 
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