Sudden end to my boating season-part failure????

[gthh]

Ooops.

Something you never want to hear from a Surgeon during an operation while you are on the operating table or your wife as she is mowing the lawn with a 54” zero turn mower around our boat!

Long story short-she bumped the port side jet and broke the control deflector arm attachment and possibly the control cable support strut.

I thought I would canvas the group and garner any suggestions (and sympathy) before a trip to partzilla.

This may be an opportunity to upgrade (guilt is like an open check book!-I know, that’s just mean-just getting over the trauma-I guess). What do you think Will Owen????

The 2007 AR230 never cost me a dime in repairs so investing in some improvements would not be out of the question.

Not a good premature end to the boating season but possibly a chance to give back to a boat that has given so much to us over the years.

Thanks

 

[Neutron]

Partzilla is probably your best bet, definitely could have been worse

 

[gthh]

Another photo

 

[tdonoughue]

Well, at least she made it clear which part was broken. She could have just nicked it, bent something, and you might not have found out until on the water and your boat turned in circles or something.

Here providing sympathy.

 

[TeeNGee]

How about a weld repair or even JB Weld?

 

[Neutron]

How about a weld repair or even JB Weld?

Jb weld wont hold. Way to much force and pressure on the nozzle.
Parts are available so its just a matter of money now

 

[gthh]

@TeeNGee That would be an option if I knew what the magnitude of the torsion or tension forces acting on deflector control arm.

It would be a risk I could accommodate if I could not find the part or the part was astronomically expensive.

 

[TeeNGee]

My thought was that epoxy or welding would be a quick and easy fix.
Since you have a twin engine boat, failure of the repair would not be catastrophic. The starboard engine would still have steering capability, albeit reduced.

 

[anmut]

That should be an easy fix with the new part. Heck you might be able to find a used part on Ebay.

You should be up and running in a few days again.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Welding cast anything can be tricky. Just buy the new part and get it fixed so you’re back on the water.

 

[gthh]

My thought was that epoxy or welding would be a quick and easy fix.
Since you have a twin engine boat, failure of the repair would not be catastrophic. The starboard engine would still have steering capability, albeit reduced.

Your idea has some merit and if it was not a lever and I didn’t have $500 bucks laying around ; > ) I wouldn’t hesitate. I have JB welded cast metal parts that are still usable and saved tons!

And I agree, two screws are better than one! (sorry-an old US Navy DDG vs Cruisers joke)

I will probably get it welded by someone that does good work with cast aluminum. (Clinton Welding for you local folks). Just in case I have any trouble in the future getting this part.

 

[gthh]

The tragic saga continues….

I got the part but with a catch. It is not identical to the original broken part. Not a problem if everything fits but as @Bruce pointed out in a thread the part may offer a performance bump because of the new design.

If that is the case I guess I can throttle back that jet but may just buy another for the starboard side.

I will report back for the curious but if any of you have any differing opinions on what I should do, please contribute!

Also, any ideas on how I can reuse the Trust Vector brackets off the old nozzle with out destroying the nozzle (I plan to get the damaged nozzle welded for the hell of it!)

 

[tdonoughue]

With the thread locker used in the install, you will have no luck getting them off normally. I tried with mine (the spring of the TV's interferes with the bolt for the turning cable). Finally gave up and cut the bolt and flipped it over (considering replacing with a pin setup secured with a cotter pin, but that is a separate thread). Read later that heat can help release the thread locker. Care would be needed to not melt the TV's....

 

[drewkaree]

With the thread locker used in the install, you will have no luck getting them off normally. I tried with mine (the spring of the TV's interferes with the bolt for the turning cable). Finally gave up and cut the bolt and flipped it over (considering replacing with a pin setup secured with a cotter pin, but that is a separate thread). Read later that heat can help release the thread locker. Care would be needed to not melt the TV's....

I think he's talking about the brackets that are epoxied on - these had to be added by the end user, and can be seen in my thread where I added the Thrust Vector Wake's. This bracket circled in green is the add-on that had to be epoxied in place:




@gthh if that's what you're referring to, heat should get that to a point where you can remove them, but I don't know what the best method would be to tackle this. I'd start with a heat gun set on low, or if you feel comfortable, a propane torch, kept moving, until it breaks free. I'd keep applying heat and possibly a deadblow mallet to persuade it to let go. @JetBoatPilot may want to confirm

 

[gthh]

I think he's talking about the brackets that are epoxied on - these had to be added by the end user, and can be seen in my thread where I added the Thrust Vector Wake's. This bracket circled in green is the add-on that had to be epoxied in place:

View attachment 238257


@gthh if that's what you're referring to, heat should get that to a point where you can remove them, but I don't know what the best method would be to tackle this. I'd start with a heat gun set on low, or if you feel comfortable, a propane torch, kept moving, until it breaks free. I'd keep applying heat and possibly a deadblow mallet to persuade it to let go. @JetBoatPilot may want to confirm

Yes, that is the problem.

I would like to salvage these parts because Will’s customer service told me replacement parts may not be available.
I think I will try to chip off a piece and heat it up with a thermocouple and see what happens.

Still waiting for Jetboat pilot to reply.

 

[tdonoughue]

Ah, different connection... sorry about that. Disregard...

 

[TeeNGee]

Cast aluminum can typically withstand temperatures up to about 400°F (204°C) without significant loss of strength, but higher temperatures can lead to softening and potential structural issues. For specific applications, such as in automotive parts, the maximum safe temperature may vary based on the alloy used.
Original J-B Weld can withstand temperatures up to 550°F (288°C) intermittently. At 550°F JB Weld retains about 1/7 it's original strength.

Understanding The Heat Resistance Of J-B Weld Products | Artizono

Have you ever wondered just how much heat J-B Weld products can endure? Whether you're tackling an engine repair or fixing a high-temperature appliance,

artizono.com

If your wife permits, you could try heating the part in your oven to weaken the JB Weld bond.

 

[JetBoatPilot]

Did this ever get resolved? Sorry I just saw this. I don't get on this platform much anymore.