Water coming into engine compartment under power. See pics.

[GregGreg]

I have a used 2017 FSH 190. I've fixed all the common leaks IE anchor, self bailing, etc. This is a new one and it pours water into the engine compartment from the stern while under power. I've attached two photos, 1 with arrows where the water rushes in and the 2nd being a screenshot of a video I took.

 

[GregGreg]

There is a video of the leak

 

[GregGreg]

I believe I solved this. Broken hose clamp... Go figure. The clamp secured 1 end of the hose the prop drive shaft would rotate in with water. It would force water out one end subsequently filling the back end with high pressure water pushing it into the engine bay. I will test tomorrow and update if this is the cause.

 

[Acard7]

Your intermediate bearing sure looks like it’s seen better days. Hope the hose clamp was the only issue!

 

[GregGreg]

Me too! The engine compartment looked like this when I bought it. I doubled up all the hose clamps on the exhaust pipes as a precaution. I plan on replacing all bearings this off season, or after the weekend lol

 

[Melissa Hall]

Hello GregGreg , I'm having the same problem with water coming in. Where was the hose located at ?

 

[Beachbummer]

It is a painful job to replace all those rusted clamps. The tabs rust and break off, and they can't be removed easily at all. I would not do it for $50 a clamp if I had a choice. it was that bad for me. I would suggest you attack as a fun project in the off season if you want to replace them all, but ready for them to take some time.

If others have techniques to remove them more easily, by all means share!!!

 

[Melissa Hall]

THANKS

 

[GregGreg]

**update** not a fix for my current water leak while under power. See next comment


That was my issue and there is no more water coming in. Beachbummer is correct, the clamps will rust out and snap. Sometimes they are broken and only held on by the indentation into the hose. Give them a good tug. To replace them I attacked one by one and got lots of fiberglass friends in my arms. I also doubled up most, I have some left. When I took them off I used a flat head, a wrench and socket. The socket was the easier way with extensions and elbows. When I reinstalled the clamps I made sure to have all the heads of the clamps up and easily accessible for future maintenance.

Melissa that hose is behind the motors "firewall" located stern side but right against the "firewall". I'm not sure of your experience level so please don't take any over explanations the wrong way.

Open engine hatch and look where the exhaust hose goes through a fiberglass wall. Along with where the engine is connected to the driveshaft which turns the impeller for our jet drive. That's the wall and in order to view the opposite side you will need to check the clean out port hatch or other access hatch behind the motor. (I say all of the above for anyone will a different model) open that hatch and then remove all the screws holding the plate which allows the access port door to secure to. You might have to use a blade, heat gun etc to break the silicone seal or maybe not. Mine was rotted and I had resealed it and now sealed it again after this job. This plastic piece is fairly forgiving and will bend slightly but don't push it. Once that piece is off you will have to remove/loosen 1 hose clamp that connects to a drain run off port connected to the tray. Then you can completely remove it and have much more room and access to all the clamps plus the hose that I had a broken clamp on. If you have the FSH, go ahead and just remove that big exhaust hose that connects to silver keg looking thing and black box.

 

[GregGreg]

I was wrong. That did not fix my issue. There is however less water than before but still water coming into that spot. Apparently on my test drive 20 minutes of hard running wasn't enough of a test. Today my bildge kicked on so I checked; sure enough same water intrusion. Even had the wife drive while I had the clean out port hatch open. Looking in the Bay area while I held down the safety switch. "Insert OSHA violation song" it also poured into the rear area. So I'm now thinking bad bearing seal. It's there a way to test these seals without removal? I've filled the engine bay with water a good bit and tilted the boat- nothing leaked out from the bottom. Water coolant hose line maybe?

 

[Acard7]

Look at the intermediate bearing while underway. You should see water gushing in or leaking in when it’s bad. Mine was gushing water in just in the forward detent.

 

[Beachbummer]

Also, check water level when you stop for some time and again on departure. If the water level goes up also while stopped you should not need the engine running to find the leak.

Rub rail and hose/cable entry points are known areas of possible water ingress.

Best of luck on your hunt.

 

[GregGreg]

 

[GregGreg]

This is where it is leaking. Only when under power. I checked the stern side of this wall and it leaks on that side too. So, the leak is coming from under that wall; what is there to leak? The intermediate bearing? Also the water is warm, not cool which would mean engine cooling water right? I'll have to check again as when I did the engine bay had a fair amount of water and possibly could have heated up that way.

 

[anmut]

I would check your post-manifold hoses and pre-intake hoses - doesn't look like it's spraying from the bearing, but looks like it's being pushed out under power.

 

[Cambo]

What a lot of owners don't realize is how the water is getting in the hull. Someone posted a go pro video of the water coming up the "Drain/Run off" then it spills down from all the gaps in the clean out tray and inspection port. Put your boat on the trailer with the bow elevated plug that drain hole and fill the clean out tray with water and watch how fast it pours out the hull drain. All this water pours down over all the clamps sits on the lowest portion of the hull and sloshes around into the engine bay. The other area is the anchor locker drain is also a hull filler all the water pools in the back area when throttle is applied the bow rises and water rushes to the back and is most likely what you have posted on the you tube video.

Lots of good info here and how to seal it on post 52 in the tread below

https://jetboaters.net/threads/need-help-lots-of-water-draining-from-plug-on-17-212x.23345/page-3

 

[GregGreg]

What a lot of owners don't realize is how the water is getting in the hull. Someone posted a go pro video of the water coming up the "Drain/Run off" then it spills down from all the gaps in the clean out tray and inspection port. Put your boat on the trailer with the bow elevated plug that drain hole and fill the clean out tray with water and watch how fast it pours out the hull drain. All this water pours down over all the clamps sits on the lowest portion of the hull and sloshes around into the engine bay. The other area is the anchor locker drain is also a hull filler all the water pools in the back area when throttle is applied the bow rises and water rushes to the back and is most likely what you have posted on the you tube video.

Lots of good info here and how to seal it on post 52 in the tread below

https://jetboaters.net/threads/need-help-lots-of-water-draining-from-plug-on-17-212x.23345/page-3

View attachment 221376

I've filled the boat up with water in my driveway. Had the trailer as high as I can get it and positioned the boat on a slope in my driveway with absolutely zero leaks on the outside. Not even a drop from the drain plugs. Left it like that for 30 minutes before I pulled the plug. Where can I find a good diagram for our cooling system? I cannot make heads or tails of what I can find using Google.

I've also sealed the anchor locker, re sealed starboard side self bail, cleared port side self bail hose (had some crab line in there from previous owner). I will double check what you said to look for but when I increase the rpms the boat isn't moving fast enough to slosh any water anywhere. It just oozes in on both sides when under power.