Winterization debates

[Bill D]

I'm assuming a shrink wrap with the cover on / anti-pooling poles in. Since I store my boat 45 min from where I live... it wouldn't be wise to shrink wrap (poles in) and then roll down the highway eh?

I would think you would be fine to tow the boat with the shrink wrap on. Many boats are delivered that way. You would probably want to verify with whomever does the shrinkwrapping that the material is thick enough for travel. I'm not sure if there are different thicknesses.

 

[vxooxv]

I would think you would be fine to tow the boat with the shrink wrap on. Many boats are delivered that way. You would probably want to verify with whomever does the shrinkwrapping that the material is thick enough for travel. I'm not sure if there are different thicknesses.

I was more concerned with towing with the poles in than the shrink wrap itself. I was always told to not tow with the poles in as it causes to much pressure on the top.

 

[Bill D]

The main worry about towing with the poles in is that it puts a lot of pressure on the seam area across the bow. It is believed by some that doing this practice over time leads to premature separation of the seam. With the shrink wrap, you only need it for the winter, and there is no stitched seam under the pole. I am sure that whoever does the shrink wrapping will tell you if the poles are supposed to be in or out and if there is any concern towing the boat to storage.

 

[veedubtek]

I cringe every time I hear people say Fill yer tank all the way. The thought of dealing with 50 gallons of fuel that could have "gone bad" is my reasoning for running my tank down very low for storage. Once I get into September I add Marine Stabil to any new fuel I put in the boat right till the last day I use it. Been doing it this way since the 90s and never had a spring fuel issue. I mean to me it makes sense to have the smallest amount of potentially compromised fuel you can come spring, then adding new fresh fuel can off set the potential problem. But 50 gallons?? Yikes

The less fuel you have in the tank, the more air you have. The more air you have, the more condensation you will create, which is what leads to problems. A completely full tank will take MUCH longer to go bad, much more than just one winter.

 

[Ronnie]

I would think you would be fine to tow the boat with the shrink wrap on. Many boats are delivered that way. You would probably want to verify with whomever does the shrinkwrapping that the material is thick enough for travel. I'm not sure if there are different thicknesses.

Shrink wrapping is too expensive of an annual cost for me but if I were to go that route I'd want to put in a zipper door so that I could get into the boat if I needed to out of season.

 

[Evil Sports]

Dub, While your background is worthy of notice I can only speak to the 20 years I have done it this way with zero issues in the spring. This includes outboards, GM V6s, Yamaha and Honda Inline 4s. Just sharing my experience, not necessarily debating the virtues either way.

 

[Evil Sports]

 

[veedubtek]

Me either bud, I'm personally of the notion unless you have some shit fuel, you'll pretty much have no problems regardless in a 4 month span. Just sharing the science behind it is all. My experience with any real problems regarding fuel separation/contamination usually takes years to occur. And boy that smell just about never leaves once it happens.

 

[robert843]

Me either bud, I'm personally of the notion unless you have some shit fuel, you'll pretty much have no problems regardless in a 4 month span. Just sharing the science behind it is all. My experience with any real problems regarding fuel separation/contamination usually takes years to occur. And boy that smell just about never leaves once it happens.

I agree no way fuel is going bad in 4 months unless you put bad fuel in from the start. My grandfathers boat sat in his garage unused for 5 years and when I finally got it out put some stabil in the tank and did some obviously needed other items to the boat and it ran fine with 5 year old fuel in it.

 

[InmyElement]

After reading all these insightful posts..I'm still in denial and trying to get out on the water 1 or 2 more times, before I winterize it.

When I do.. I'm filling the tank and adding Stabil 360, grease fittings, spray protectant on all the metal parts inside and out, change oil and filter, fog intake and cylinders and I read the other day in the boating magazine when spaying into the cylinders make sure to turn over the engine a couple of times w/o plugs so the fogging doesn't pool in the cylinders... This way it will get spread around the cyl walls and lubricate the rings. I'll put the old plugs back in and in the spring after a run or 2 I'll put new plugs in. I have a tank and hose from winterizing my Sea Doo, so I'll make an adapter and use the pink anti-freeze through the flush ports while I fog it. Just for peace of mind. I'm going to remove the battery and charge it out side the boat (separate location). I'm not keen on leaving it on a maintainer for the whole winter in the boat..paranoid about fire. I'm also thinking about putting the trailer on blocks to relieve tires and springs.

Thanks for all the great ideas

 

[haknslash]

For those with SC motors where do you fog in the intake system?

 

[Julian]

I'm in the camp with those that fill their tanks for winter storage. Much more likely that you'll have condensation and water in your tank than you will have your gas go bad. We had at least one boat in the last year with water in their tank....

Been doing it this way for decades....no issues. Not sure how much of a risk condensation is....which is why many have no issues either....but I'd prefer to lower that risk as much as I can.

 

[InmyElement]

First year winterizing a Jet Boat and I've winterized all my others full inboards, outboards, and pwcs. I've read most of the debates here and watched all the you tube instructionals. My question is and I even bought the shop manual...If most experienced winterizers don't bother with the anti-freeze, how are we sure all the water has left the engine block? I'm assuming the raw water is being circulated through the engine block and regulated by a thermostat similar to other engines. (maybe that's what I get for assuming) So by revving it a couple times I realize the exhaust cooling water is being evacuated, but what about the block? How are we sure the raw water has evacuated all the water jackets?
I apologize if I'm missing something and maybe I have some more reading to do...Thanks for all the insight!

 

[txav8r]

It's been my experience that shit happens. So the 3 or 4 months all of a sudden turns in to a much longer period of time. Why take any chances? Why risk water in the fuel? It has been my procedure for s very long time, to use Marine Grade Stabil AND Yamaha Ring Free Plus, in EVERY tank of fuel. AND...I don't ever use ethanol free fuel, because the specific gravity is not what the fuel sender in your boat is designed for, and your fuel measurements (fuel gauge, fuel used, gph) will all be wrong. I do agree that a few months is not a concern for fuel burn capability, but a few months of fuel separating or even attracting outside moisture=BIG problem.

And to answer your winterizing question...the block is self draining, the reason we rev the engines is to move excess moisture and vapor as far down the exhaust section as possible, to prevent internal corrosion. Fogging hour engine regularly, using Ring Free, and evacuating the vapor from the engine, all the time will keep your boat winterized. And even during the season, changes in temperature and humidity does damage. Using these procedures year round have been very effective for many Yamaha owners for years.

 

[Gym]

I agree no way fuel is going bad in 4 months unless you put bad fuel in from the start. My grandfathers boat sat in his garage unused for 5 years and when I finally got it out put some stabil in the tank and did some obviously needed other items to the boat and it ran fine with 5 year old fuel in it.

I would tend to agree that your grandfather's fuel would last a good long time. Unfortunately, most of us are no longer using your grandfather's fuel. We are using a 10% blend of grain alcohol which is the problem. Think about it for a second. What do you put in your car gas tank if you have water in the tank? Dry Gas, which is alcohol. The reason you put alcohol in is because it sucks up the moisture. That is exactly what the 10% ethenol does...sucks up moisture. Yes, it will absorb it from your tank if there is any which is good but if not it will suck it out of the air causing your fuel to begin phase separation which is bad. The top off and treat theory came about after years of problems that most of us have learned and benefitted from.

 

[robert843]

I would tend to agree that your grandfather's fuel would last a good long time. Unfortunately, most of us are no longer using your grandfather's fuel. We are using a 10% blend of grain alcohol which is the problem. Think about it for a second. What do you put in your car gas tank if you have water in the tank? Dry Gas, which is alcohol. The reason you put alcohol in is because it sucks up the moisture. That is exactly what the 10% ethenol does...sucks up moisture. Yes, it will absorb it from your tank if there is any which is good but if not it will suck it out of the air causing your fuel to begin phase separation which is bad. The top off and treat theory came about after years of problems that most of us have learned and benefitted from.

I will actually have a good test of this in the coming months. I last used my grand fathers boat in July of 2015 I have not touched it since then. I did put 10% ethanol fuel in it at that time. It will likely be February or March before I touch it but I do intend to sell it in the spring we will have to see how it handles it by that point it will have been sitting unused or started with that fuel in it for aprox 19-20 months. Hopefully it will start and run but we shall see how it handles it.

 

[Gym]

I will actually have a good test of this in the coming months. I last used my grand fathers boat in July of 2015 I have not touched it since then. I did put 10% ethanol fuel in it at that time. It will likely be February or March before I touch it but I do intend to sell it in the spring we will have to see how it handles it by that point it will have been sitting unused or started with that fuel in it for aprox 19-20 months. Hopefully it will start and run but we shall see how it handles it.

Was the tank topped off @robert843? Is it a metal or plastic fuel tank? Should be an interesting test.

 

[robert843]

Was the tank topped off @robert843? Is it a metal or plastic fuel tank? Should be an interesting test.

Metal tank and I do not recall how much fuel is in it as it was over a year ago but I do know it was not topped off after use.