• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

Winterization debates

I'll be darned! Thanks for the link.

EDIT: I thought it looked familiar. It is, unfortunately, not a gas station, just a performance shop -- they sell canned specialty gas of all sorts.


I just saw that when I looked closer. Looks like the closest place is Caryle IL.

See what happens when I get too excited about non-ethenol fuel :-)
 
I finished my winterizarion routine yesterday. I will admit that the fogging gave me some trouble. That is; I couldn't get the Yamalube Stor-Rite at my local Yamaha dealer, but they had this Mercruiser "Storage Seal" fogging oil which the parts guy said was the "same thing". Well it isn't. When I shot it at the intake (flame arrestor), it formed up like shaving cream. Apparently that is supposed to be some benefit, but clearly it didn't atomize the way it was supposed to. I had to buy a different kind which didn't foam up.

I ended up doing the 3 second shot and run the engine for 15 seconds method like in the book. I wanted to run it directly through the spark plug holes but decided that it's way too much work and effort. I'm not sure if the method I used actually got much into the cylinders though. All in, I may agree that the hassle may not be worth it. Either way I will need to run some TB cleaner or similar in the spring because the first stuff may have gummed up my arrestors ('ribbon'?).
 
@ncnmra , I have used Mercruiser Storage seal in the past and still do. You should be fine. Even though it foamed it liquifies quickly as well. When I used it in my 2006 sx230ho with the same engines as your boat I did it the same way you did. that is, through the throttle bodies (At least once with the flame arrestor ribbons installed) and the boat started right up at the beginning of each season every year with the same spark plugs installed. I don't think fogging ever caused the plugs to foul but I replaced the plugs yearly for a while anyway right after I burned the fogging oil off at the start of the season while the boat was on its trailer and the engines on a hose. Again, I think you should be fine.
 
I didn't read all thorough this so it may have been discussed....It's NOT GOOD to start the engine during the winter. You just invite condensation since you don't get fully up to temp on the hose. Put it to bed until spring.
 
After reading all this, I think I'm just going to let the dealer do it. I could, but I think it's more peace of mind for me.

Please don't let our philosphical discussions about the minutae of winterizing put you off from doing it yourself. Many dealers do different things in their winterization lists too. One thing you might consider though is....doing the oil change yourself and telling the deal you did the oil change and you'd like a price on the rest of the winterizing. That would reduce your cost (should be significantly).
 
So when I picked up my new boat from Bayside Jet Drive in MD this weekend I asked them specifically what they do for winterizing. I am not at all endorsing or renouncing their procedures but I figured I would add it to the discussion. As for fuel level they try to get them as low as possible and for fogging they fog both at the intake and the plugs. They also run antifreeze through the flush ports. They said it was all likely overkill but as a dealer they said any residual water would be a huge issue if it were to freeze.

The other interesting thing they said was that they didn't see ethanol as a big issue with these engines but more the drop in octane with the fuel left in the tank for long periods of time. So do with that, what you will.
 
The other interesting thing they said was that they didn't see ethanol as a big issue with these engines but more the drop in octane with the fuel left in the tank for long periods of time. So do with that, what you will.
It's the phase separation the fuel goes through over time & the fact that ethanol is a sponge for water vapor that is problematic. The more air left in the tank the more water will be absorbed by the ethenol. I think it would be problematic for many dealers to fill the tanks of all boats they winterize.
 
Guys here's a link I found on YouTube made by Jetboat Pilot.

 
Please don't let our philosphical discussions about the minutae of winterizing put you off from doing it yourself. Many dealers do different things in their winterization lists too. One thing you might consider though is....doing the oil change yourself and telling the deal you did the oil change and you'd like a price on the rest of the winterizing. That would reduce your cost (should be significantly).

I'm also going to sign up for the Yamalube advantage with this new boat. Can't beat that warranty. I don't mind spending a few bucks more for oil and filter, or stabilizer, etc if I am protecting my investment.

With that said, I definitely like hearing how others do things. Its always good to compare notes. I have learned so much in a short period of time due to this forum. :thumbsup:
 
Well, I didn't do anything this year. I was going to fog but couldn't find the spark plug wrench. Didn't do antifreeze. Boat will be stored inside and heated. First year boat was outside. I fogged but didn't run anti freeze. It was -18 the year the boat was outside. I know we like to take care of our boats but I think they'll survive just fine without any extra care. How many lawnmowers and jet skis have we stored outside with no problems.? We pay a lot for out boats but I think if nothing was done, they'd be just fine.
 
@ncnmra , I have used Mercruiser Storage seal in the past and still do. You should be fine. Even though it foamed it liquifies quickly as well. When I used it in my 2006 sx230ho with the same engines as your boat I did it the same way you did. that is, through the throttle bodies (At least once with the flame arrestor ribbons installed) and the boat started right up at the beginning of each season every year with the same spark plugs installed. I don't think fogging ever caused the plugs to foul but I replaced the plugs yearly for a while anyway right after I burned the fogging oil off at the start of the season while the boat was on its trailer and the engines on a hose. Again, I think you should be fine.
I read on another forum that the Mercuiser Storage Seal formula had changed. It comes out and stays very thick. I bought some "Kleen-Flo" engine storage and fogging spray and it works much better:
http://www.kleenflo.com/products/789.html
 
I just finished changing the oil and fogging the engines in my 242ls and four and two stroke waverunners. I videoed and commented on the entire process but am on the fence about making a posting an edited video for several reasons. One there are plenty other how to videos out there already, two a lot of the footage is of my back (thankfully I was wearing under wear so no embarrassing boating cleavage was revealed, which would have answered the question, "How much cleavage is too much?") and three I can already imagine all the comments I'd get (e.g., you didn't warm up the oil, put the engines on a hose before starting them, put an adult diaper in place before removing the oil filters). What's done is done, I'm happy to have it out of the way but also sad because it marks the formal end of this boating season for me.
 
@Ronnie : I don't think extra videos will hurt, but I agree that everyone seems to have their own spin and opinion. I did my own winterizarion this year and found some interesting things. I.e.: the oil wasn't very warm at all, even after 20 mins on the hose. Also I wasn't exactly sure why the "diaper" would be necessary, and I made a mess on the port side until I realized how/where it comes out.

I ended up fogging through the intakes, I didn't want to pull the plugs although I think that is likely the best method overall.
 
Is there a how-to on shrink wrapping yourself? I've googled and there are a million other video's but none are my trusted jetboat experts. I'm a couple hours from any marina that could/would/can do this... or is a couple hours drive worth the effort. How hard could it really be?
 
Is there a how-to on shrink wrapping yourself? I've googled and there are a million other video's but none are my trusted jetboat experts. I'm a couple hours from any marina that could/would/can do this... or is a couple hours drive worth the effort. How hard could it really be?
Not a direct answer to your question but if you live in a boating community, there may be people that will drive to your boat to shrink wrap it. There are several where I live. With regard to doing it yourself. I considered the same thing a few years back. The main concern seemed to be knowing how much heat to apply to get the job done without burning the plastic or gelcoat. I decided to tarp it instead. Much cheeper, gives me access during the winter and keeps the snow off.
 
I cringe every time I hear people say Fill yer tank all the way. The thought of dealing with 50 gallons of fuel that could have "gone bad" is my reasoning for running my tank down very low for storage. Once I get into September I add Marine Stabil to any new fuel I put in the boat right till the last day I use it. Been doing it this way since the 90s and never had a spring fuel issue. I mean to me it makes sense to have the smallest amount of potentially compromised fuel you can come spring, then adding new fresh fuel can off set the potential problem. But 50 gallons?? Yikes
 
Not a direct answer to your question but if you live in a boating community, there may be people that will drive to your boat to shrink wrap it. There are several where I live. With regard to doing it yourself. I considered the same thing a few years back. The main concern seemed to be knowing how much heat to apply to get the job done without burning the plastic or gelcoat. I decided to tarp it instead. Much cheeper, gives me access during the winter and keeps the snow off.

I'm assuming a shrink wrap with the cover on / anti-pooling poles in. Since I store my boat 45 min from where I live... it wouldn't be wise to shrink wrap (poles in) and then roll down the highway eh?
 
I cringe every time I hear people say Fill yer tank all the way. The thought of dealing with 50 gallons of fuel that could have "gone bad" is my reasoning for running my tank down very low for storage. Once I get into September I add Marine Stabil to any new fuel I put in the boat right till the last day I use it. Been doing it this way since the 90s and never had a spring fuel issue. I mean to me it makes sense to have the smallest amount of potentially compromised fuel you can come spring, then adding new fresh fuel can off set the potential problem. But 50 gallons?? Yikes

I do the same with adding Marine Stabil a tank or two before I put it up for Winter, however I keep mine full with 50 gallons with Stabil - besides the condensation issue, I like having an extra 50 gallons of fuel around during the Winter if there is a major power outage, that will run my generator for a week on top of the 30 gallons I have stored in my shed. The folks dealing with Hurricane Matthew would probably agree with this thought process.
 
Back
Top