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2017-2019 AR 210 oil change (TR-1 engine)

I don't recall offhand. I know it was more, but like you mentioned, not much. If I had to guess and put a figure to it, it was maybe half a quart combined, for both engines. It's been long enough that I don't trust my figures though. 2/3 is where I prefer the level as well. I've definitely experienced an overfilled motor, and it was noticeable enough that it caused me to check, so I try to fill it to the lowest mark on the dipstick, and then take a few quarts out with me for 2-3 trips, and check it until I'm confident it's at 2/3.

Right on….a measured approach..see what I did there?

A tad more detail, I split the difference on the fill amounts listed in the manual, 3.2L without filter 3.4L with filter. I added 3.3L, then ran each engine for 6 mins then let it sit for 6 mins and then checked the oil level (leveled the engines before I started) both were at the L low mark. I then added enough oil 45-.5L (in case you are wondering how I got that .45-.5L a quart is .946L and I was using the graduations on the side of the bottle to measure (I miss my ratio rite I need to get another one Ratio Rite ) and there are not any marks above .9 so I’m assuming .45-.5 ) to bring it to 2/3 then ran the engines again for 6 minutes let sit for 6 mins and rechecked, no change, oil level still at 2/3. I’ll check it again next time I’m on the water.

Im hoping this is repeatable but it all depends on getting the same amount of oil out of the engine, at least I have a closer baseline so I do not overfill.
 
After getting beat up for my last year's "I just put in what I take out" comment LOL I've found that my boat likes to be no more than half full (between low and full) on the dipstick as far as reaching max rpm's and top speed.
 
After getting beat up for my last year's "I just put in what I take out" comment LOL I've found that my boat likes to be no more than half full (between low and full) on the dipstick as far as reaching max rpm's and top speed.

Spark plugs and oil level, of all the things to be so noticeably temperamental about these boats... I could have 15 gallons of water in the bilge, and those 2 things would be more noticeable! ?
 
Was gonna add this to the first post, not sure if that option to edit is removed after some time (@zipper @Admin @Julian @Bruce ?)

This gets asked often enough, and I didn't have access to my service manual myself today, so had to reach out for assistance from @FSH 210 Sport,who was Johnny on the spot for me.

Gap and torque specs. The AR210, and the 212X, directly from the service manual:

1000040701.jpg
 
Yes, the ability to edit “times out” after some period of time.
 
Was gonna add this to the first post, not sure if that option to edit is removed after some time (@zipper @Admin @Julian @Bruce ?)

This gets asked often enough, and I didn't have access to my service manual myself today, so had to reach out for assistance from @FSH 210 Sport,who was Johnny on the spot for me.

Gap and torque specs. The AR210, and the 212X, directly from the service manual:

View attachment 237612
Isn’t gap something you would set? I was always taught that the condition of the electrodes was what determined the condition. If they are dirty, clean them. If they are eroded replace them. If they are out of gap adjust the gap.

I do know that a regular replacement cycle is normal for these boats, which I do. But I set the gap to specs rather than assume it is correct out of the box.
 
Isn’t gap something you would set? I was always taught that the condition of the electrodes was what determined the condition. If they are dirty, clean them. If they are eroded replace them. If they are out of gap adjust the gap.

I do know that a regular replacement cycle is normal for these boats, which I do. But I set the gap to specs rather than assume it is correct out of the box.
The majority of the plugs come gapped correctly, but it’s always a good idea to check them to make sure they’re set at .028” of an inch which is the minimum gap for the plugs that go in the TR1 engines.
 
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