2021 FSH 252 Sport Thread

[Thor32766]

Zack will you be doing another amazing write up on this?

 

[Zackdadams]

Yes sir. ?

 

[Zackdadams]

The Trim Tabs are installed, and the tutorial is up.
Enjoy.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/fsh-252-255-trim-tab-project.42284/

 

[Bjensen24]

Question for you guys. Do you think this system would work on our boats?
It is the octopus intellisteer type t

Intellisteer Type T F/Helms W/Tilt Function F/Cable Steered Boats W/Dash Mounted Wheel

INTELLISTEER TYPE T FOR TELEFLEX TILT MECHANICALType T for Helms with Tilt Function for Cable Steered Boats with Dash Mounted WheelFeaturesReplaces existing helmElectronic clutch disengages for manual steeringRotary drive systemFits behind dashSafe...

www.hodgesmarine.com

 

[kwaldron199]

What length ShuttleSlide would you use for a 2024 Yamaha 255 H?

Thank you!
kw

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

What length ShuttleSlide would you use for a 2024 Yamaha 255 H?

Thank you!
kw

Do you have one??? Or just planning ahead??

 

[kwaldron199]

Got one on the way.... already placed large deposit....... November-December delivery date.

kw

 

[Zackdadams]

What length ShuttleSlide would you use for a 2024 Yamaha 255 H?

Thank you!
kw

Should be the same as previous years.
You can check out my tutorial for parts list.

 

[LeonPhelps]

I personally think the shuttleslide is junk, I will be getting rid of mine in the spring and replacing with the mount from cyclesprings. Also do yourself a favour and get a minkota trolling motor, I have had both and the motorguide is also junk.

 

[Zackdadams]

I don't use my trolling motor alot, but the Shuttle Slide works great for me.

The Motorguide also can connect to the Simrad, where-as the Minn Kota cannot.

I almost went with a Minn Kota self-deploying, but was talked out of it by a couple mechanics.
Apparently they break a lot.
Who knows; either is a great option.

 

[Dixemon]

I like having the motorguide for the same reason it interfaces with my simrad go12 xse, pretty cool to use the autopilot feature to take you back to a sonar hit. Also, in case you Simrad folks didn't know. You can integrate the victron energy smart shunts with a victron energy GX device that interfaces with the Simrad MFD. This will display state of charge and AH used data ect.. Pretty cool, im halfway there, already installed the smart shunts. Just need the GX device and cables to make the connections.

 

[MilesPrower]

I like having the motorguide for the same reason it interfaces with my simrad go12 xse, pretty cool to use the autopilot feature to take you back to a sonar hit.

Same! ...especially when I'm scanning a wreck, and I want the Motorguide to take me back to (and anchor me right above) a specific spot on the wreck.

I also use the Motorguide as a "bow thruster" to keep me on-route while the jets are pushing the boat forward — a redneck method of trolling on autopilot (albeit at low speeds) — while avoiding collision targets like pilings, other boats, or even kayakers. I have a Simrad NSS12 evo3s, a GPS heading sensor, AIS Class B+, and radar — so my autopilot has a few extra functions beyond the stock GO12 setup.

But yeah, I'm not going to argue with @LeonPhelps regarding his opinion on Motorguide... because I do think they have at least one dealbreaker design flaw, and every single Motorguide I've seen (except for my own mod'ed one ?) has eventually failed because of that flaw.

Also, Motorguide remotes are seriously the worst remotes on the planet. The fact that the remote has no LEDs (or other means of feedback) is utterly ridiculous. But what's worse, the manner in which the AAA batteries are held in place pretty much guarantees that the remote will fail.

Also, in case you Simrad folks didn't know. You can integrate the victron energy smart shunts with a victron energy GX device that interfaces with the Simrad MFD. This will display state of charge and AH used data ect.. Pretty cool, im halfway there, already installed the smart shunts. Just need the GX device and cables to make the connections.

I thought about doing that too, after installing Victron Blue Smart chargers and SmartShunts, but I didn't want to fall down the Cerbo GX rabbit hole.

I'm assuming you have Victron chargers for your batteries. (Hopefully you don't have craptastic NOCO chargers. If you do, the galvanic isolation in the Cerbo will be moot because NOCO chargers don't have isolated outputs.)

Looking forward to hearing more about your Victron setup when you complete it.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Same! ...especially when I'm scanning a wreck, and I want the Motorguide to take me back to (and anchor me right above) a specific spot on the wreck.

I also use the Motorguide as a "bow thruster" to keep me on-route while the jets are pushing the boat forward — a redneck method of trolling on autopilot (albeit at low speeds) — while avoiding collision targets like pilings, other boats, or even kayakers. I have a Simrad NSS12 evo3s, a GPS heading sensor, AIS Class B+, and radar — so my autopilot has a few extra functions beyond the stock GO12 setup.

But yeah, I'm not going to argue with @LeonPhelps regarding his opinion on Motorguide... because I do think they have at least one dealbreaker design flaw, and every single Motorguide I've seen (except for my own mod'ed one ?) has eventually failed because of that flaw.

Also, Motorguide remotes are seriously the worst remotes on the planet. The fact that the remote has no LEDs (or other means of feedback) is utterly ridiculous. But what's worse, the manner in which the AAA batteries are held in place pretty much guarantees that the remote will fail.



I thought about doing that too, after installing Victron Blue Smart chargers and SmartShunts, but I didn't want to fall down the Cerbo GX rabbit hole.

I'm assuming you have Victron chargers for your batteries. (Hopefully you don't have craptastic NOCO chargers. If you do, the galvanic isolation in the Cerbo will be moot because NOCO chargers don't have isolated outputs.)

Looking forward to hearing more about your Victron setup when you complete it.

Im curious, what is the motor guide design flaw that you mitigated with your modification?

I have the Victron Energy IP 67 chargers for my Battle Born LiFePO4 trolling motor batteries, they are very good chargers, it’s nice to be able to see what they are doing via the Bluetooth app. Same with the smart shunts, great products. I have a MinnKota PC MK220 for my house BB battery and the AGM start battery, that charger will be getting changed out for a pair of Victron Energy IP 67 chargers this winter.

Zach mentioned the self deploying Minnkota above so a few comments from a MinnKota Rip Tide Ulterra with IPilot Link owner. I had heard about the problems some were having with these units, these were the early units to the best of my knowledge, and it seems like in some cases the battery voltage was allowed to drop too low for the self retrieve function to operate properly. When I was still running my lead acid batteries there was a situation wherein I got the voltage low, the trolling motor then stopped trolling, but the self retrieving function still worked. This is not in any of the literature from MinnKota which I thought was weird. Having said that, and knock on wood, I’ve not had an issue with my Rip Tide Ulterra, I’d say I have at least 1500 hours (conservative estimate) of use on the Ulterra. I’m tempted to pull the motor apart this winter and check on / put in a new set of brushes on the commutator just to get a benchmark on the wear.

Navigation sounds similar to the other units on the market, the Ulterra has an auto pilot with two different modes, Legacy and Advanced. Legacy will hold a bearing to a point while AdVanced holds a gps track / course. Legacy is good for those times when it’s windy and the boat is getting moved around a lot, Advanced is better when it’s not really windy. With either function you simply activate the Auto Pilot function with the troller head pointed in the direction you want and that is the way it will go, on the Humminbird Solix screen a message with Navigation Started appears momentarily and a dashed line appears on the chart of the auto pilot route. This route can be modified by either using the remote, the touch screen on the Solix, or the rotary knob on the Solix. It does not have the anti collusion function that you mention as far as I know but I’m still learning. The Ulterra via the Solix will also record I Tracks up to two miles in length, so if you set up what I call trolling routes, you simply get close enough to one of these routes and hit Go To and the Solix will ask if you want to go to the beginning or the end of the route, make your selection and you are on your way. Then there are three arrival modes the trolling motor will go into depending on your selection, motor off, spot lock, or auto pilot. As with the other brands, the Ulterra will follow a route that you layout using way points and will use whatever arrival mode you select. There is also contour following, this requires Humminbird lake master cards, wherein the trolling motor will follow a depth contour line in whichever direction you choose at whatever speed you choose, either by prop speed or cruise control (see below). There is also circle mode where the trolling motor will make circles around a given point at whatever distance you choose from that point, so if you’ve found a school of fish the troller will keep you circling them. There is also a trolling grid mode, I haven’t tried this one yet, that will make passes over a given area to provide what ever amount of overlap in a cross crossing fashion.

Cruise control, this feature is really great in that it will maintain a set speed while trolling. Used in conjunction with the auto pilot it makes fishing by yourself a lot easier, especially when you get a fish on. I also use the engines with the cruise control on to help the trolling motor keep its prop speed down if it’s really windy, and or if I’m say trolling for Salmon and am trolling at 2.5 mph, all while the Ulterra is providing navigational duties. I have found that keeping the Ulterra at a prop speed of [HASH=7732]#4-5[/HASH] is the best to allow enough control authority and keep the KWh draw to a minimum.

The I Pilot remote is a really nice remote in that in addition to controlling the Ulterra I Track routes can be recorded with the touch of the screen, as well as system / setting controls such as trolling motor off set from center and boat scale. Boat scale basically adjusts the amount of thrust the motor uses when spot locked for a given boat size / weight. I had to turn mine down a bit as it would really move the boat fast to put it back on the spot. The remote comes with a rechargeable battery pack installed with a usb charger cord, or you can use AA batteries. Whenever you push a button the remote there is a tactile and audible click, when changing speeds in the prop whether in cruise control or just prop speed there is a beep that comes from the trolling motor head, if the trolling motor changes state, in or out of spot lock, beginning or ending a route etc.. there is a beep or series of beeps that you will learn mean different things, for example there is a euro emergency vehicle sounding beep when the pre arrival (user configurable) to a destination warning sounds, while the navigation ended sound is a series of quick beeps strung together.

I’m sure all of the different brands of trollers and their interfaces have a ton of functionality, and I encourage anyone who has one to explore and exploit these functions as they are really quite amazing.

 

[MilesPrower]

Im curious, what is the motor guide design flaw that you mitigated with your modification?

The saltwater MotorGuides use stainless-steel press-fit starlock washers to hold the deployment plates together, on all of the various pins required for the mechanism to work. Stainless-steel being relatively soft — these starlock washers eventually slide right off the ends of the pins, and the deployment mechanism jams when the plates slip off one or more pins.

The real fix would be to cut a retaining-ring groove into the end of each pin, and employ an E-clip on each groove. That's what MotorGuide should have done in the first place. The redneck fix, which is what I implemented because I wanted to get back on the water quickly, is to use a motor-tool with a cutting wheel to cut just enough of a groove so that the starlocks don't slip.

Many other cost-cutting measures are evident throughout the design of the MotorGuides. They're far from being a premium product for sure.

I’m sure all of the different brands of trollers and their interfaces have a ton of functionality, and I encourage anyone who has one to explore and exploit these functions as they are really quite amazing.

You clearly have your boat dialed.

I always make sure to read your posts twice, even if they're discussing projects that I don't foresee myself pursing. You're very generous in sharing your wealth of knowledge, and you consistently illuminate the finer details that are critical to the specific project on hand. Just as importantly, I believe that many of the problem-solving strategies that you convey can be pivotal to the success of a broader range of projects in the future. You're a true asset to this community!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

The saltwater MotorGuides use stainless-steel press-fit starlock washers to hold the deployment plates together, on all of the various pins required for the mechanism to work. Stainless-steel being relatively soft — these starlock washers eventually slide right off the ends of the pins, and the deployment mechanism jams when the plates slip off one or more pins.

The real fix would be to cut a retaining-ring groove into the end of each pin, and employ an E-clip on each groove. That's what MotorGuide should have done in the first place. The redneck fix, which is what I implemented because I wanted to get back on the water quickly, is to use a motor-tool with a cutting wheel to cut just enough of a groove so that the starlocks don't slip.

Many other cost-cutting measures are evident throughout the design of the MotorGuides. They're far from being a premium product for sure.



You clearly have your boat dialed.

I always make sure to read your posts twice, even if they're discussing projects that I don't foresee myself pursing. You're very generous in sharing your wealth of knowledge, and you consistently illuminate the finer details that are critical to the specific project on hand. Just as importantly, I believe that many of the problem-solving strategies that you convey can be pivotal to the success of a broader range of projects in the future. You're a true asset to this community!

Love the red neck / shade tree mechanic / Mc Guiver fix to the design flaw on the motor guide! Withiut knowing what they look like have you tried looking for pins that have a groove on them so you can put a Jesus clip on them? Mc Master Carr might have something or perhaps Aircraft Spruce and specialty Pilot Supplies and Aircraft Parts | Aircraft Spruce may have something.

Thank you very much for the gracious compliment! I try and contribute any knowledge or help I can so that others will have answers without having to go through the process of investigation and trial and error that I did.

Again thank you !

 

[MilesPrower]

Mc Master Carr might have something [...]

Before I kludged the existing pins, I considered measuring the pins and replacing them with 316 clevis pins with retaining grooves (and matching E-clips) from McMaster:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

...but, I couldn't find my friggin' precision caliper or my rod gauge... and I wanted to get back on the water... so I took the redneck route... and so far, the starlock washers haven't slipped and my MotorGuide has remained in one piece. ?

 

[Zackdadams]

Adding a front LED bar.
Almost done.
I'll post a quick tutorial when it's completed.