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Another Clean-Out Plug Thread

If you installed a #350 o-ring read post #109.
Sounds like your o-ring is installed where mine are.
I had a little difficulty turning the handle on one of my plugs. I put a long wrench down onto the handle and used a screwdriver to turn the wrench. I have subsequently added super lube to the top go the locking lugs and between the metal plate and the plastic plug to reduce friction. I haven't had any problems since.
 
If you installed a #350 o-ring read post #109.
Sounds like your o-ring is installed where mine are.
I had a little difficulty turning the handle on one of my plugs. I put a long wrench down onto the handle and used a screwdriver to turn the wrench. I have subsequently added super lube to the top go the locking lugs and between the metal plate and the plastic plug to reduce friction. I haven't had any problems since.
How much did it help with water intrusion?
 
So the consensus on this is adding the o-rings and a small amount of grease or wax?

I got some bees wax, but don’t like the idea of having to put so much in there that it’s a mess every time I remove the plugs or put them in.
 
So the consensus on this is adding the o-rings and a small amount of grease or wax?

I got some bees wax, but don’t like the idea of having to put so much in there that it’s a mess every time I remove the plugs or put them in.

I would have to say at this point, there's not a consensus, as this has been a recent discovery, or idea, to try to maintain a dry bilge, and limit water from entering the boat wherever possible.

It seems like it's definitely promising, so give it a try, and most importantly, report your experience and results so we can learn, and modify, if needed.

There's no way to determine if this is a solution without more folks trying it, and other methods, and fine-tuning once results are observed. Everything I've learned is from what others on here have posted, and me trying to improve things where it seemed like it helped, but wasn't conclusive.

You can contribute by trying it. I hope to test out the theory in the near future. The messiness was reported on by @FSH 210 Sport and therefore can be improved upon, or cast aside, depending on the reporting of others. If the o-ring works, the beeswax may be redundant, and would only be needed for keeping the plugs pliable and easy to insert, which wouldn't take much at all - that's my hope, that a swipe along the o-ring is sufficient.

Testers are needed, here's hoping for more reports of success.
 
10-4 Admiral.

To be honest, I think these clean out jobbers are dumb. 4th jet boat I’ve owned, albeit 1st Yamaha, but I’ve never sucked anything up into the jet. Used the vegomatic feature enough times sure, but that’s a good excuse sometimes to have to get into the water and do my part to introduce warmer liquid to a generally cool WI lake.

Family - “Why are we stopping? Let me guess dad has to pee again.”

Me - “No no no. Felt some cavitation. Gonna check for weeds. I’m actually concerned no one else noticed that. Ya’ll should be more connected with the boat and lay off the capri suns.”

Me 2 min later and 128oz lighter - “Ok throw me a towel, we’re good to go!”

Family - “Any weeds??”

Me - “Huh? What are you talking about?”
 
Took it for a spin and it was completely dry.
Installed a plug rebuild kit, applied some beeswax around the seal, installed the O ring. Last time out, the plug was completely full of water. After these adjustments, it was completely dry, thanks for the info!
 
I may give this a whirl as well - looks like you can get five from Amazon for $22

569812B0-FB9C-4BDC-B32D-EA19536C3C52.jpeg
 
Update from my boat... I installed the o-rings and completed the cleanout plug rebuild process. Yesterday we got out to test.

Results? Completely amazing. We put on about 20 miles, 20% at WOT, 50% at 30mph cruising speed, and 30% at wakeboarding speeds of 18mph ish. Halfway through our day we went to the sandbar - when I got my sand spikes out of the cleanout hatch, there was ZERO water - not even a drop of water, in the cleanout plug area. I couldn't believe it. I'm running twin impellers too, so slightly higher pump pressure than OEM.

Same when we got back to the dock - pulled the plugs, not an ounce of water back there. Pulled the transom drain plug at the ramp, nothing came out. Possibly the first time in five years since we purchased this boat that we've had no water in the boat after that sort of usage.

O-rings + fresh cleanout plug rubber for the win!

Quick edit: I did not use beeswax, just silicone spray. No issues twisting and pulling out plugs with this method.
 
Update from my boat... I installed the o-rings and completed the cleanout plug rebuild process. Yesterday we got out to test.

Results? Completely amazing. We put on about 20 miles, 20% at WOT, 50% at 30mph cruising speed, and 30% at wakeboarding speeds of 18mph ish. Halfway through our day we went to the sandbar - when I got my sand spikes out of the cleanout hatch, there was ZERO water - not even a drop of water, in the cleanout plug area. I couldn't believe it. I'm running twin impellers too, so slightly higher pump pressure than OEM.

Same when we got back to the dock - pulled the plugs, not an ounce of water back there. Pulled the transom drain plug at the ramp, nothing came out. Possibly the first time in five years since we purchased this boat that we've had no water in the boat after that sort of usage.

O-rings + fresh cleanout plug rubber for the win!

Quick edit: I did not use beeswax, just silicone spray. No issues twisting and pulling out plugs with this method.
Great news. I am considering the same strategy for 2018 242 with original plugs. Do the o-rings stay seated when you pull the plugs for inspection or do they tend to come up/out with the plugs?
 
Great news. I am considering the same strategy for 2018 242 with original plugs. Do the o-rings stay seated when you pull the plugs for inspection or do they tend to come up/out with the plugs?
Mine have stayed seated. In fact, when I tried to remove them, I had a heck of time, and had to go get a small screwdriver to help me get some purchase so I could pull them out. They sit right on the metal ledge of the bottom portion of the latching ledge.

You can tell the plug is just slightly more "firm" when the plug is twisted into the lock position. I think the o-ring helps prevent the plug from pushing up under pressure, which creates a gap when the plug skirt is formed by the pump.
 
Mine have stayed seated. In fact, when I tried to remove them, I had a heck of time, and had to go get a small screwdriver to help me get some purchase so I could pull them out. They sit right on the metal ledge of the bottom portion of the latching ledge.

You can tell the plug is just slightly more "firm" when the plug is twisted into the lock position. I think the o-ring helps prevent the plug from pushing up under pressure, which creates a gap when the plug skirt is formed by the pump.
You mean in the groove at the bottom of the well? That’s where@TeenGee said he put his.

35F0214B-C16B-4962-8D96-5855A385D42A.jpeg

From @TeenGee ’s post #19 in this thread

1C611351-A6D3-4897-8BC7-FE9577337D15.jpeg
 
Yep, that's exactly where mine fits. Why Yamaha didn't see that they could do this AND sell "OEM" o-rings at $45 a piece is beyond my comprehension.
Okay cool…. Hard to say, but the trend in all industries is to sell “assemblies”..somehow that makes sense to their bottom line.

Focusing on the positive, Mr TeenGee has given the community a great gift, a super easy and clean way to keep things drier. @TeenGee deserves a gold star and an evening in the corner of excellence.
 
McMaster 9452k408 - 5 pack of 350 o rings $7.75
 
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