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Bought a used boat - SX230HO - The adventures of a newbie

Mats -

Pretty smooth install after I cleaned up the old mess. Wish the instructions said to vacuum the dang stuff first lol covered the anchor hatch but not the side hatches .. still debating if I want to.

Also replaced the anchor locker and cooler drains.

Cheers!
 

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Got around to doing the stainless scupper today. Another task I hope I never get to do! What a pain this was... my arm looks like ut's been in a cat fight...

Used a wrench from local hw store to help (see pic below):thumbsup: for $12

Now off to enjoy fiberglass on my skin for couple of days lol
 

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Got around to install the new cleanout tray seal today. Didn't want to go the sealant rounte on this for easy removal. Did stick it to the hull instead though and left the old one in place which has collapsed to about 1/32in. Used a leather hole punch so that the screws won't tear it up.
 

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Finally got a chance to hook up YDS and see if anything pops up. Got one from ebay last year - http://www.ebay.com/itm/330918278833

There was only 1 code 68 back from ~86 hr mark and that explains the new-ish nowake button but no issues other than that. Did not get a chance to actually run the engines with it but will most likely get to it just out of curiosity this weekend.


YDS 2.22.2017.png
 
Finishing up (part 1)..

Due to the windy weather today I didn't get a chance to deal with sound insulation but managed to finish up couple of things:

  • Replaced the plastic flanged dry bearings on the steering joint.
  • Greased up few pivot points on the steering/reverse bucket I had apparently skipped last time.
  • Put some more moly grease on the impeller shafts.
  • Tightened up all the wee hole through hull fittings.
  • Replaced the horn facia with a chrome looking one.
  • Removed, opened and resealed the plastic facia for the back radio remote (3M 4200)
The door half is cut and "polished" up ready just waiting on some barrel nuts to arrive wednesday.

By next Friday all should be all done for a quick photo shoot and to head out to the marina in the PM.
 
Finishing up (part 2)...

Got the engine hatch insulated today. It's an all day thing for a single person. Made it a little larger for better seal on the side. Nothing fancy just some 2.5in eggcrate foam. Def not a project I am proud of but hey it worked :)

This is another one of those projects I hope I don't get to tacle again too soon lol wel'll see how it holds up.

Tools and such in picture... tired as heck!
 

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Finishing up (part 2)...

Got the engine hatch insulated today. It's an all day thing for a single person. Made it a little larger for better seal on the side. Nothing fancy just some 2.5in eggcrate foam. Def not a project I am proud of but hey it worked :)

This is another one of those projects I hope I don't get to tacle again too soon lol wel'll see how it holds up.

Tools and such in picture... tired as heck!
Man, this looks better than the new 2015+ 240 factory "Quiet Ride"! I bet it'll hold up better, too.

--
 
Still need to take some shots of how the hull turned put but here's some cockpit photos and a finished door/hatch.
 

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Thought I elaborate a little more on building the door since I didn't see much information around when I was looking for it. Perhaps I didn't find it but maybe it will help someone eventually :)

I had never worked with starboard prior to this and appears it's very similar to handling wood and I would venture to say it's actually easier. I was feeling a bit nervous at first with talks about it melting it etc. on the internet but once I made my first cut it was actually quite easy.

Was missing a few things of what I needed except for a hand saw and made a trip to the local HW store, obtained some files, clamps and a saw blade that King Starboard recommended. Definitely didn't want to make an investment for a single project so I tried to go the cheapest route I possibly could. King Starboard recommends somewhat lower RPM for cutting tools .. I watched this video -


but from my experience, the 5500rpm saw I had already (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-18780-evolv-12-amp-corded-7-in/p-00918780000P) did the trick just fine. KS also recommends 60-80 tooth saw if I am not mistaken and so I had to purchase it for ~$10.

saw.JPG

In order to obtain the Starboard material, after a trip to West Marine and looking at some sellers on-line etc, I ended up in a local marine upholstery shop. I just needed the piece to be in great shape since it's not going to go into a cabinet and both faces of it will be visible. Basically I wanted to see it and touch it before purchasing to avoid slow returns etc.

I was lucky to have one half of the door so I used it to exactly mirror the half I was going to build. So I traced the existing piece (it's a trapezoid not a rectangle!) onto the new piece and then used the old piece as a saw guide with the help of the clamps.

clamps.JPG

The resulting piece ended up being a rough cut and that's where the files came in. At first I tried doing it with a Dremel tool but that ended up being slow and I didn't like the results. The best results were form the hand file, used it without a handle just in the palm of my hand and took a very short time to get it to what I wanted. I started off with a more coarse file then finished with something more fine for the finish.

files.JPG

Used the OEM hinges which were ~$14 a piece (had to have the holes lined up with the existing piece) and these from https://www.jamestowndistributors.com --
FSSMSFP832X3/8 MACH SCR FLAT PHIL S/S 8-32 x 3/8
FSSBN832 BARREL NUT S/S 8-32, 3/8" BARREL LENGTH 7/32 OUTSIDE DIAMETER UOM: bx-25

All in all couple of hours from start to finish and attention to detail.
 
Hi fellas!

It's been a while so I thought I check in. We've had 8 outings since the beginning of the season and so far so great! Boat's running great, the family loves it and I am pretty sure it will be on great summer!

Some things I've done since my first couple of trips -
Oh and very much looking forward to the water becoming a bit warmer! :-D
 
  • Keychain that works with 2 keys: Chums Floating Keychain

Advice: Test that. I had a floating keychain with my two keys on it. And my boat shed key. And my trailer lock key. To test I tossed the whole rig into my pool. Sank right to the bottom. I added 2 more floats so now it does (float). You can also test in a sink.
 
Advice: Test that. I had a floating keychain with my two keys on it. And my boat shed key. And my trailer lock key. To test I tossed the whole rig into my pool. Sank right to the bottom. I added 2 more floats so now it does (float). You can also test in a sink.

Yes I tested in the sink when I got it because of some of the reviews. Floats fine w/ just boat keys.
 
You have been really busy! In reference to a post from page 2....gunnel leaks....I'll bet many of our boats leak at the gunnel...it isnt a spot they focus on much, and I'll bet your leaks happen when you slow down and water washes over the transom. Personally I'd not worry about it unless you plan on adding thousands of lbs of ballast to wake surf and sink the rub rail below the water line.
 
You have been really busy! In reference to a post from page 2....gunnel leaks....I'll bet many of our boats leak at the gunnel...it isnt a spot they focus on much, and I'll bet your leaks happen when you slow down and water washes over the transom. Personally I'd not worry about it unless you plan on adding thousands of lbs of ballast to wake surf and sink the rub rail below the water line.

Thanks for the advice Julian! Definetly no leak issues so far. Most of it does appear to come from stopping more abruptly through the cleanout tray really. I did end up tightening some grabhandle bolts back there that were loose. No worries here and no ballast plans either.

Perhaps next winter when I go about changing the rub rail (if it bothers me enough) I'll take a closer look there.
 
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