Fix for Connext Battery Voltage Issue - Confirmed

[WildCatFan54]

Didn't order the crimping tool however !! They wanted $318 to crimp a $.44 terminal ?? Needle nose pliers , here I come.

 

[Mainah]

I don't think that is it. The capture point (what locks it into the wire harness connector) near the bottom is what I think is missing there. Someone please prove me wrong.

This past weekend I got my boat unwrapped, my new rtic 40 filled and put in (the boat is named Liquid Therapy afterall) the batteries put back in (tunes), the cobra fins installed, and spent some backyard boating time with the wife enjoying the sunny warm weather. I also got an upclose look to think about my planned mods somemore. The first thing I think I am going to do based To add 5 bus bars or small fuse panels for the hots and colds of the battery switches. This way nothing gets swapped around and add ons are easy. After that I will do this voltage fix. I have decide to just cut and splice unless someone locates the pins before I do that.

 

[Rod5]

That looks to be very close and might work. Not sure it's long enough behind the notch though...

 

[Coheeba]

You can solder and crimp (needle nose) the connector on, the issue is if the pin will fit inside the barrel.

 

[Coheeba]

I see what your talking about @Mainah it may not lock into the connector. I'm looking to see if I can find the correct one.

 

[Julian]

Good plan @Mainah ! One of my first mods was bluesea fuse blocks with dual bus bars to make add ons easy! Then a heavy duty neg ground bus bar by the batteries to make hookup less complicated.

 

[WildCatFan54]

I ordered a dozen of these on Monday and received them in the mail today. I am cautiously optimistic they can be made to work ? Overall length , distance in front of the crimp area to terminal tip , and diameter seem to be the same as OE. The only possible obstacle could be the location of locking collar on the barrel. It may be closer to the crimp area than OE. If that is the case then maybe tip trimming will work ? I won't know until I get down to my boat at Lake Cumberland , hopefully this weekend (weather permitting) ?

1062-20-0222-PS

Socket, Stamped and Formed, Nickel, 16-22 AWG, .051-.085 Insulation

Click for More Detail

 

[WildCatFan54]

These are the ones that came today . What do you think @Rod5, @Mainah, and @Coheeba ?

 

[Mainah]

Looking foward to your results.

 

[Rod5]

I give it a definite maybe! Fingers crossed you can get the locking clip seated with it installed.

 

[Coheeba]

Looks good just may not lock into connector. I contacted the company (Actia) that makes the gateway that the connector plugs into. I haven't heard back from them. If I get some info I will pass it on.

 

[WildCatFan54]

I ordered a dozen of these on Monday and received them in the mail today. I am cautiously optimistic they can be made to work ? Overall length , distance in front of the crimp area to terminal tip , and diameter seem to be the same as OE. The only possible obstacle could be the location of locking collar on the barrel. It may be closer to the crimp area than OE. If that is the case then maybe tip trimming will work ? I won't know until I get down to my boat at Lake Cumberland , hopefully this weekend (weather permitting) ?

1062-20-0222-PS

Socket, Stamped and Formed, Nickel, 16-22 AWG, .051-.085 Insulation

Guys , I'm sorry for taking so long to reply on this topic. Between busy schedule at work and terrible weather I had not been to my boat until today to follow up on this. I'm happy to report that these female barrel connectors WILL work in place of cutting and splicing into existing wires. I used 16 gauge stranded primary wire and crimped these on and soldered. After unlocking and removing the two OE wires from the harness , I inserted these all the way to the stop. I was first concerned that maybe lock would not reengage , but it did. The aftermarket connector does pull up , just a fraction of a millimeter before catching and to the eye a little more of the crimp end of the barrel is exposed than the others. But it is locked. I just taped off the ends of the original red leads and left them in the bundle in the unlikely event I ever need to go back to stock ?

 

[WildCatFan54]

The barrel connectors work. I crimped them on 16 gauge stranded primary wire and they fit securely in the wiring harness after removing the two OE wires. My initial fear was that I would not be able to relook the white clips on the plug. Not the case. Replacement connector does pull a fraction of a millimeter before locking in place but it , and all other OE pins are secure. Much better than cutting and splicing and I just taped off the removed wires in the unlikely event of needing to go back to stock config.

 

[Bruce]

#Yamaha it would be awesome if you could fix this and perhaps issue something along the lines of a #TSB to your dealers.

 

[Coheeba]

The barrel connectors work. I crimped them on 16 gauge stranded primary wire and they fit securely in the wiring harness after removing the two OE wires. My initial fear was that I would not be able to relook the white clips on the plug. Not the case. Replacement connector does pull a fraction of a millimeter before locking in place but it , and all other OE pins are secure. Much better than cutting and splicing and I just taped off the removed wires in the unlikely event of needing to go back to stock config.

So you just pull the start and aux pins out and replace with the two new wires with the new pins? They just pull out of the connector easily?

 

[WildCatFan54]

The factory connectors pull out easily after unlocking by depressing the white plastic clip on the harness. I used 16 gauge wire and if I had it to do over again would probably go with 18 gauge. I would recommend a small pair of needle nose pliers for both removing the old connectors and gently inserting the new. Be sure and relock by pushing the two locking clips on the bottom side of unlocking clip. I believe that @Rod5 provided an excellent picture earlier in this thread. Page 6 , post #115

 

[Coheeba]

Thanks. I just ordered the Deutsche pins. I almost cut the wires this past weekend but thought I would wait to see your results. I like this mod better.

 

[WildCatFan54]

Good luck ! Large thumbs and fingers are not an asset on this type project ! Thats why I recommend a small pair of needle nose especially on the AUX wire as it is buried deep in the bundle. Be sure you have both crimps secure and maybe even a drop of solder if possible. A wire coming off the Deutsche pin in the plug could get ugly.

 

[subysti]

Another confirmation that it works.

 

[Coheeba]

View attachment 55988 Another confirmation that it works.

Did you use the cut and splice method or did you buy the pins and swap them out in the plug?