Fix for Connext Battery Voltage Issue - Confirmed

[Julian]

Both, it’s been like that since the first season.

Might want to read this thread:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/2016-yamaha-connext-screen-delamination.14161/

 

[Hector]

Might want to read this thread:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/2016-yamaha-connext-screen-delamination.14161/

Wow, thanks.
I have the YES warranty but at this point I’m going to wait until after the season or at least until after Bimini. My dealer is slammed right now and it’s barely starting to warm up here and don’t want to miss out.

 

[Mainah]

So everyone I went and looked and the lead coming out of my switch for the house battery had a second wire with it. I took apart the battery switch and swapped the leads for the house and start batteries. Sadly this is how it was labeled so it looks like it was installed wrong. Hooked everything back up and poof I now have two different readings. Did not have to cut, splice or change anything else at all. Hope others have the same luck.

You are the second person with a 2017 plus boat to mention the leads. I can say that I have noticed any such leads and will have to take a closer look (been meaning to so thos for a while). Wonder if it was a fix that happened with 2017 model years. That said I like the direct connection for each battery. This minimizes any voltage drop from things drawing power on the same circuit which wil artificially deflate the true battery voltage. I notice when heavy bass comes in on a song that my aux voltage drops one or two points with my amps pulling down more juice to feed my subs. Pops right back up when the bassy section is done and that is with very modest amp draw for the speakers that I have a system tuned with an oscilloscope, dedicated 0 awg run and group 31 agm batteries.

 

[FloJet]

You are the second person with a 2017 plus boat to mention the leads. I can say that I have noticed any such leads and will have to take a closer look (been meaning to so thos for a while). Wonder if it was a fix that happened with 2017 model years. That said I like the direct connection for each battery. This minimizes any voltage drop from things drawing power on the same circuit which wil artificially deflate the true battery voltage. I notice when heavy bass comes in on a song that my aux voltage drops one or two points with my amps pulling down more juice to feed my subs. Pops right back up when the bassy section is done and that is with very modest amp draw for the speakers that I have a system tuned with an oscilloscope, dedicated 0 awg run and group 31 agm batteries.

Lol. Tell me about it. When my bass is on I see fluctuations of 11.2v to 12.5 where I usually start the day. But like you said once bass is done, it always goes back up. I just can't wrap my head around why it barely gives me the 12.6v reading for long. Most of the day it's @ 12.4v when I know it's usually more like 12.5 to 12.6v.

 

[Mainah]

The reading is only as good as the components, programming and calibration (if they even calibrate) of the spu box.

 

[Bluewater272]

So everyone I went and looked and the lead coming out of my switch for the house battery had a second wire with it. I took apart the battery switch and swapped the leads for the house and start batteries. Sadly this is how it was labeled so it looks like it was installed wrong. Hooked everything back up and poof I now have two different readings. Did not have to cut, splice or change anything else at all. Hope others have the same luck.

So, here's the stupid question of the day. How do you take apart the switches? Just remove the screws from the front and it comes off? Any other trick to it? I need to take a peek both at this and the DVSR loop.

 

[Hector]

So, here's the stupid question of the day. How do you take apart the switches? Just remove the screws from the front and it comes off? Any other trick to it? I need to take a peek both at this and the DVSR loop.

Open up your engine hatch and directly behind the dvsr you will see the threads and nuts of the two bolts that hold it together.

 

[Bluewater272]

Open up your engine hatch and directly behind the dvsr you will see the threads and nuts of the two bolts that hold it together.

Awesome, thanks!

 

[Sbrown]

So, here's the stupid question of the day. How do you take apart the switches? Just remove the screws from the front and it comes off? Any other trick to it? I need to take a peek both at this and the DVSR loop.

Open up your engine hatch and directly behind the dvsr you will see the threads and nuts of the two bolts that hold it together.

My switch set has two bolts and two screws. The screws come straight out; the bolts have nuts on the engine room side of the bulkhead the switches are mounted to.

 

[MidnightRider]

So everyone I went and looked and the lead coming out of my switch for the house battery had a second wire with it. I took apart the battery switch and swapped the leads for the house and start batteries. Sadly this is how it was labeled so it looks like it was installed wrong. Hooked everything back up and poof I now have two different readings. Did not have to cut, splice or change anything else at all. Hope others have the same luck.

Thanks for this information, I opened up my switch cluster and found the sense wire. For me it was labeled to be where it was but switching over to the start battery gave me separate voltage readings so this definitely works. So Aux voltage is reading the start battery now and System voltage is reading the house battery. Incidentally this is now opposite what the manual indicates but I don't care cause now at least I have separate voltage readings.

Question - it looks like the DVSR has power even when all switches are off cause I see the LED on even after I shut both switches off - is this correct? If so, how much draw is that on the batteries if they were to sit for a while - I'm guessing not enough to worry about.

 

[Hector]

Thanks for this information, I opened up my switch cluster and found the sense wire. For me it was labeled to be where it was but switching over to the start battery gave me separate voltage readings so this definitely works. So Aux voltage is reading the start battery now and System voltage is reading the house battery. Incidentally this is now opposite what the manual indicates but I don't care cause now at least I have separate voltage readings.

Question - it looks like the DVSR has power even when all switches are off cause I see the LED on even after I shut both switches off - is this correct? If so, how much draw is that on the batteries if they were to sit for a while - I'm guessing not enough to worry about.

Light will stay on until the voltage drops . Light on batteries are all connected together once the lights turns off it means the voltage dropped and the batteries are isolated.

 

[Pullen724]

So can anyone confirm if the “fix” found with the wires in the switch cluster is only on 2017 and newer models? Ive got a 2016 and would like to know if any out there with 16 or older have pulled this apart to check.

 

[MidnightRider]

So can anyone confirm if the “fix” found with the wires in the switch cluster is only on 2017 and newer models? Ive got a 2016 and would like to know if any out there with 16 or older have pulled this apart to check.

You don't have to pull the switch cluster apart to check, you can see the wire going into the switch. Its a small (maybe 18-20 gauge?) sense wire that goes out bundled with the main feed coming off the house power. The issue is that it is connected inside the switch to the house battery which is redundant since the connext system already know what "it's" battery source voltage is. So to fix, is when you do need to take open up the switch cluster and move it from the house battery switch source to the start battery switch source so the connext system can get the start battery voltage via this sense wire.

 

[Coheeba]

Thanks for this information, I opened up my switch cluster and found the sense wire. For me it was labeled to be where it was but switching over to the start battery gave me separate voltage readings so this definitely works. So Aux voltage is reading the start battery now and System voltage is reading the house battery. Incidentally this is now opposite what the manual indicates but I don't care cause now at least I have separate voltage readings.

Question - it looks like the DVSR has power even when all switches are off cause I see the LED on even after I shut both switches off - is this correct? If so, how much draw is that on the batteries if they were to sit for a while - I'm guessing not enough to worry about.

Here is the DVSR Manual for all you electronic geeks

 

[Jameson Clark]

After reading all 9 pages. I am still confused on what (if any) mod I need to do on my 2017. I really want the actual separate readings but not sure what to do.

 

[FloJet]

After reading all 9 pages. I am still confused on what (if any) mod I need to do on my 2017. I really want the actual separate readings but not sure what to do.

What part you need help at? @Mainah @swatski are the man when it comes to this kind of things.
Really just cutting the red line in the perk than running leads from battery to the STU on the starboard side of the boat. I think you can even run it to the port side wiring too.

 

[MidnightRider]

After reading all 9 pages. I am still confused on what (if any) mod I need to do on my 2017. I really want the actual separate readings but not sure what to do.

Take a look at my photos 2 posts above yours. On the '17 there is a red sense wire that heads out of the battery area bundled with the main House feed. That red sense wire goes into the battery switch cluster and is connected to the House battery switch (you have to remove the switch cluster to see the connection bolts on the back of it).

You need to remove that sense wire from the House battery switch and instead connect to the Start battery switch. After you do this the Connext will read the House battery as "System" and the Start battery as "Aux" separately.

What you are fixing is that as-is the Connext is getting its voltage reading from itself which is fed by the House battery named "System" on the connext. Also it is getting the "Aux" voltage from the sense wire, problem is the sense wire is also connected to the House battery. So both are reading the House battery. Which is why you need to swap the sense wire over to the Start battery switch.

If that doesn't make sense let me know and I or some else that has done this can go into greater detail.

 

[Jameson Clark]

That makes more sense. Anyway to make them read correctly on the connext screen? (start battery as house battery)

 

[MidnightRider]

That makes more sense. Anyway to make them read correctly on the connext screen? (start battery as house battery)

Are you talking about swapping the labels basically on connext. I'm not aware of anyway to do that.
As some have pointed out it kinda makes sense to call the House battery "System" cause its what the Connext [system] runs on, leaving the Start as "Aux". But you bring up a good point, it is actually opposite of what the '17 Manual says System and Aux are.

Edit: I'll just add for completeness sake - this only works on boats that have the extra sense wire which from what I understand was added in '17 models. Earlier boats would need to use @Mainah method of hi-jacking the SPU wiring. For that matter there isn't any reason '17 model owner couldn't do this as well if they wanted to - just seemed the sense wire swap was easier. Using @Mainah mod you can really choose what battery you want labeled what by what wires you tap into for each battery.

 

[Jameson Clark]

I see your point entirely. My main goal was to see individual battery readings. With having a 21' model like yourself, I don't really wanna run new wires from down in the battery compartment all the way over to the other side of the boat when just swapping one wire from one switch to the other seems much easier.