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Might want to read this thread:
Wow, thanks.
You are the second person with a 2017 plus boat to mention the leads. I can say that I have noticed any such leads and will have to take a closer look (been meaning to so thos for a while). Wonder if it was a fix that happened with 2017 model years. That said I like the direct connection for each battery. This minimizes any voltage drop from things drawing power on the same circuit which wil artificially deflate the true battery voltage. I notice when heavy bass comes in on a song that my aux voltage drops one or two points with my amps pulling down more juice to feed my subs. Pops right back up when the bassy section is done and that is with very modest amp draw for the speakers that I have a system tuned with an oscilloscope, dedicated 0 awg run and group 31 agm batteries.
Lol. Tell me about it. When my bass is on I see fluctuations of 11.2v to 12.5 where I usually start the day. But like you said once bass is done, it always goes back up. I just can't wrap my head around why it barely gives me the 12.6v reading for long. Most of the day it's @ 12.4v when I know it's usually more like 12.5 to 12.6v.
Open up your engine hatch and directly behind the dvsr you will see the threads and nuts of the two bolts that hold it together.
Awesome, thanks!
My switch set has two bolts and two screws. The screws come straight out; the bolts have nuts on the engine room side of the bulkhead the switches are mounted to.
Thanks for this information, I opened up my switch cluster and found the sense wire. For me it was labeled to be where it was but switching over to the start battery gave me separate voltage readings so this definitely works. So Aux voltage is reading the start battery now and System voltage is reading the house battery. Incidentally this is now opposite what the manual indicates but I don't care cause now at least I have separate voltage readings.
Light will stay on until the voltage drops . Light on batteries are all connected together once the lights turns off it means the voltage dropped and the batteries are isolated.
You don't have to pull the switch cluster apart to check, you can see the wire going into the switch. Its a small (maybe 18-20 gauge?) sense wire that goes out bundled with the main feed coming off the house power. The issue is that it is connected inside the switch to the house battery which is redundant since the connext system already know what "it's" battery source voltage is. So to fix, is when you do need to take open up the switch cluster and move it from the house battery switch source to the start battery switch source so the connext system can get the start battery voltage via this sense wire.
Here is the DVSR Manual for all you electronic geeks
Take a look at my photos 2 posts above yours. On the '17 there is a red sense wire that heads out of the battery area bundled with the main House feed. That red sense wire goes into the battery switch cluster and is connected to the House battery switch (you have to remove the switch cluster to see the connection bolts on the back of it).
Are you talking about swapping the labels basically on connext. I'm not aware of anyway to do that.