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Has any one moved the post on the Shorland'r trailer?

I'm afraid we will be seeing a lot more of that:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/broken-trailer-part.13628/

I think this may be a direct result of the boat/trailer setup with excessive tongue weight.

I don't have the time to deal with this right now, but given the tongue weight from factory is in excess of 500lbs (as it was in mine before I moved the bow stop) the weight measured at the jack attachment point (2-3 feet back from the coupler) may exceed the 1,000lbs ratings of that jack...


EDIT: In the meantime, I would not attempt to move the trailer with the trailer jack extended, I think that is asking for trouble.

Moving the bow post back makes the trailer ride, turn, and brake easier and improves overall handing (safer). Loading is also easier, but that is not really an issue.

I hope that if anyone moves their bow back and feels otherwise they will speak up.

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Last night I took a look at the Shorelandr and noticed the stern was 3-4 inches forward of the end of the bunks. At the minimum I would have tried to make that flush. I have a new combo trailer I just picked up in Ohio that I will be using going forward, otherwise I'd be doing this. I also upgraded my tongue jack to a 1500 pound unit many months ago because the original one looked so stressed. Now the new trailer owner will have that little upgrade along with the Stoltz roller and custom rims and tires I installed.
I also just purchased the tongue scale linked below so I will never wonder about tongue weights. With this new combo trailer I have no friggin idea how it will balance out initially.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007REJTGI/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A7O51HGOUZ91S
 
Last night I took a look at the Shorelandr and noticed the stern was 3-4 inches forward of the end of the bunks. At the minimum I would have tried to make that flush. I have a new combo trailer I just picked up in Ohio that I will be using going forward, otherwise I'd be doing this. I also upgraded my tongue jack to a 1500 pound unit many months ago because the original one looked so stressed. Now the new trailer owner will have that little upgrade along with the Stoltz roller and custom rims and tires I installed.
I also just purchased the tongue scale linked below so I will never wonder about tongue weights. With this new combo trailer I have no friggin idea how it will balance out initially.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007REJTGI/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A7O51HGOUZ91S
That tongue scale should be pretty accurate, with all the instructions followed. Not sure how easy it is to operate and store, so please let us know. I might go for this. Another purchase...

And do jump on the hitch so that we can see that differential. 175 lbs? :D

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175??? You need to eat more!!
 
That tongue scale should be pretty accurate, with all the instructions followed. Not sure how easy it is to operate and store, so please let us know. I might go for this. Another purchase...

And do jump on the hitch so that we can see that differential. 175 lbs? :D

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Yes! 175 pounds exactly.....then...the other leg....lol

I will keep you posted on the scale. Has not arrived yet and I'm spending the weekend transferring the boats and adjusting the bow stops and bunks as needed. Can't wait!
 
So I moved the bow stop on my trailer back 3 inches, any negative side effects of this move? I haven't loaded the boat yet, but I will take the boat on a few 100 mile trips this summer
 
So I moved the bow stop on my trailer back 3 inches, any negative side effects of this move? I haven't loaded the boat yet, but I will take the boat on a few 100 mile trips this summer
3" is good.
5" is better.
I am at about 8" - it is GREAT.
In my experience - the stern needs to stick out about 5-6" past the end of the bunks when loaded up (all the way - w/the roller tucked under the front chine) after a short stop.

I've just completed a 300+ mile trek down to our favorite place, Bull Shoals Lake, AR. Trailered beautifully, it feels better than my 190 had. To be sure, the last 30 miles of that route is a winding down path with a steep decline and multiple hairpin loops (the famous Promise Land Road) - all the way down to the shore (we are staying with our friend Jim at his Wood's Landing). That road makes some drivers uncomfortable just driving down, not towing.

To all my fellow (2015- 240/242) Yamaha jetboaters:
Do yourself a favor, move your trailers' bow stop back few inches. Thank @Neutron for test trailer "mod" ever.

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Love the new trailer setup, it feels a lot more nimble especially in tight turns. I didn't even change the SHorland'r tires yet, still riding on the original plys, the radial replacements waiting to be put on. I am going to keep the factory jack, too, it's fine now with the trailer finally ballanced.

That said, those TDIs (the Q7) are ridiculous for towing. I get over 400 miles range on a 20 gal fill-up with the boat and family in tow, a good quarter of that over hilly rural roads on the last trip.
And then - at one point I had to use a steep gravel road into the lake in lieu of a ramp (most ramps in BSL were flooded), the traction control is so insanely good I couldn't slip a tire if I wanted to, in and out the lake.

upload_2017-5-31_17-58-0.png

upload_2017-5-31_17-58-11.png

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I wet slip so it makes it easy to work on the trailer. Moving the bow stop is literally two bolts and the entire unit isn't that heavy. You don't even have to remove the bolts, loosen, move and tighten, it's really easy.
 
@swatski my Q7 TDI is getting approx 15 mpg towing...which would translate to 375 mile range leaving me 1 gallon in the tank. Are you getting over 16mpg....if so are you driving 55 to accomplish that?
LOL, you are making me think now. I usually don't pay much attention to my mpg burn to be honest. I do have a habit of resetting the mile-clock/odo whenever I fill up though. That last trip was over 400 miles of trailering the boat between fill ups and not even hitting the reserve - about half /half major highway and rural roads. I don't usually drive 55... but when I do, yeah, it was a holiday weekend and traffic was slowish.

So, I don't know exactly. I'm sure the bow stop mod/ balancing the trailer helped, but truth be told I've been a bit obsessed with the Q7 maintenance and I think that might be the key to improved fuel economy.

Since I got this car last year, I have changed oil several times - do it about every three thousand miles. The oil I extract is continuously improving in appearance with every change, the first one looked basically like tar. I think the "recommended service intervals" for those cars are badly off and really misleading, most likely designed to appease the customer. But those TDIs run hot, REALLY HOT, like 1,500deg hot, so changing oil needs to be a frequent occurrence. What is also bad is - oil needs to be that special no ash formula to preserve the DPF, so it is not the best formula (for wear protection) by definition. It is the same with the transmission - I already replaced the oil/ATF twice and the filter once, those are partial changes though, will do another round soon. every time it seems to help - the car just seems to run smoother and smoother.

All of that is expensive (the OEM fluids and parts are stupid expensive) but it is worth it to me - is WAY cheaper than funding the 2 vehicles it would take to adequately replace the Q7 (euro sports commuter/suv AND capable TV).

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I am finally getting back to this thread. @swatski are you concerned with the position of you boat on the trailer as in not enough bunk at the very rear of the boat where the hull is strongest? I will admit my 2 inch move still feels a bit tounge heavy for the load. IMO the options are replace the rear bunks after moving the roller back, or move the roller back a few inches and move the axles foward a few inches, or be happy with just the few inch bow roller move. I am going with option 3.
 
I am finally getting back to this thread. @swatski are you concerned with the position of you boat on the trailer as in not enough bunk at the very rear of the boat where the hull is strongest? I will admit my 2 inch move still feels a bit tounge heavy for the load. IMO the options are replace the rear bunks after moving the roller back, or move the roller back a few inches and move the axles foward a few inches, or be happy with just the few inch bow roller move. I am going with option 3.
No concerns, it just seems way more balanced. I would move it even further back but want to have some buffer.
The engines are still in front of the bunk ends, I can not see how this could be bad, frankly.
Not to mention - looking at some of the outboard setups - that can get iffy pretty fast. Our boats tow easy, especially with double axles.

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This was on uneven ground along w the trailer npt being leveled. This is w me not moving the stop on the trailer at all. View attachment 56427
@Minh Nguyen i was glad to see the photo you posted. I have a weighsafe hitch as well and assumed the scale was way off because I'm only reading about 300 lbs with the trailer level. The boat seems to tow well but I assumed the scale was reading light. I certainly didn't want to move the bow stop back and make it even lighter.
 
Im ok with it being between 350-500lbs. And to be honest it feels better with a bit more weight on the hitch. With my truck empty the ride feels kinda jarring, but with the boat hooked up it feels smoother lol.
 
Moved mine back today by about 5 inches today (boat is hanging off about 3-4 inches off the bunks in back) and it towed so much better than before! I'll get the exact measurements if anyone is interested.

Also, keep in mind that your tongue weight will be influenced by how much stuff you have in the forward part of the boat. Throw in a box anchor up front...there's 20'lbs, grill 10lbs, 2nd anchor with chain 20lbs - and theres 50lbs right away! I'm guessing I have 100lbs of stuff in forward storage compartments.
 
@swatski I plan to move mine back tomorrow. I know you are on the way to Florida but with out having to dig back through the whole thread does any one know what the magic number is on moving this back? I guess a better reference would be how far back it should be from the break away though as bet if we went and measured these on 10 new trailers I would be willing to bet we got 7 different distances they are starting at from the mfg.
 
@swatski I plan to move mine back tomorrow. I know you are on the way to Florida but with out having to dig back through the whole thread does any one know what the magic number is on moving this back? I guess a better reference would be how far back it should be from the break away though as bet if we went and measured these on 10 new trailers I would be willing to bet we got 7 different distances they are starting at from the mfg.
There is no magic number. Everything comes into the equations, height of hitch, amount of weight in the bow, amount of weight in the stern, every combination will be different.
 
@swatski I plan to move mine back tomorrow. I know you are on the way to Florida but with out having to dig back through the whole thread does any one know what the magic number is on moving this back? I guess a better reference would be how far back it should be from the break away though as bet if we went and measured these on 10 new trailers I would be willing to bet we got 7 different distances they are starting at from the mfg.
Sorry - was driving, just made a stop. We are in Chattanooga, TN, I think.
Mine is moved by 8 or 9 inches. Tows like a champ. I would never want to go back. I'm also no longer planning on replacing my trailer jack, at least for now.
I would move it at least 5inches. 5 is good. 8 or 9 is better.

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Looks like most reporting here have 24' models, so I thought I would report my initial test for a 21' model. I moved mine back 3-4" and didn't notice much difference in trailering home from the lake. I plan on moving it a couple more inches back this upcoming weekend and see if the change is more noticeable. I don't have a way to determine the weight difference on the ball, so nothing scientific to show.
 
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