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Home automation dabblers

Dean P

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Speaking of speakers, I was looking for a pair of outdoor speakers and end up going with POLK AUDIO Atrium 6. To power these I opted for a bluetooth amp. This little thing is fantastic; never knew they existed. So, instead of using bluetooth speakers (that each require their own outlet), now I only need to plug in 1 item and run speaker wires (no big deal in my setup). The phone hooks right up to the bluetooth amp and works/sounds great.

@Julian you're right about the Mesh. I have the main plus one, one at each side of the house. Super connection and speed.

I luv automating things. Makes my/anyone's life much easier. Highly recommend.
 

johhnyboat

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Funny.....your house is nearly identical to mine, except I use Echo vs Sonos. I even have Swann cameras on a backup battery! My Logitech died, and now I use Apple TV remote (although our house running joke is "Did I ever mention how much I had this F'ing apple TV remote?". The idiot who came up with a remote with no "Mute" button should be beaten with something - that's apple over doing their simplification for ya!

As I have some of the higher end Echo devices....I guess my simplest approach is to just get the Echo amp and have it run the outdoor speakers, and run a line out to the main amp. Then I can have all the speakers playing the same audio if I want, and I'll have remote access to the volume of the Echo amp (outdoor zone). This will give my wife something to buy me for Xmas that I'll need to install before our New Years Party!

@adrianp89 So have you linked your switches to Ring to trigger lights?
Second on the Amazon Echo. The only thing different is I added Garageio to my garage doors to automate opening and I can tell who accesses and make sure they are closed and locked when I'm away. I added a couple of furbo cameras indoor as well so I can check on the dogs when I am away.
 

Julian

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Second on the Amazon Echo. The only thing different is I added Garageio to my garage doors to automate opening and I can tell who accesses and make sure they are closed and locked when I'm away. I added a couple of furbo cameras indoor as well so I can check on the dogs when I am away.
I've got the ring alarm (which pays for itself in insurance discount- and pays for the camera storage too). I added garage door sensor to Ring, so I can trigger (and see) lights based on the door's status.

Ring cameras cloud storage (Ring Protect) costs $100/year and includes 24/7 Security alarm monitoring. I get a $100/year discount from State Farm for having fire/theft remote monitoring. So in effect, this system has no ongoing maintenance costs (but yes...you have to buy the ring alarm with smoke detector integration).
 
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TimW451

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I currently have Ring alarm and cameras which replaced an old school alarm, between service and POTS line cost me $50/month, and an Arlo camera setup. Arlo was good, but when I bought it the service was included, only long term video storage was extra. Now you have to pay for any service, and that wasn’t worth it to me. Got a useless Dropcam for same reason.

I use Wemo and a few Lutron Caseta switches for lights. My wife got the Wemos a number of years ago and I like them once the software settled down. last time I had something other that a timer switch was X10, literally a millennium ago. ;) I did replace my outdoor wall lamps with ones that use Wiz (owned by Phillips now, but different than Hue). The interface is clunky, but they have integrated LEDs that you can pick the color, and it comes with holiday color settings preprogrammed.

I had Logitech Harmony, but since that is EOL I refitted my home theater setup so it is now just a TV, AppleTV, and two HomePod speakers. It was too much of a PIA for other family members to get everything in synch. RIP TiVo (first time w/o one since 2000), blu-ray, HT receiver, Bose Acoustamass (sp?).

Several Echos(Alexas) of course. While Siri could do a lot of the same if you shop at Amazon you’ll still want to have Echos. I did get a couple of the small plug-in ones. They work great for the garage workbench and hallways that could be dead zones.

I bought LiftMaster HW to use with my older Sears garage door openers. I didn’t buy the consumer MyQ HW, but the OEM wall switches and bridge as when I was researching it Chamberlain was charging a monthly fee for the consumer kit, which I believe they don’t do anymore. I also read mixed reviews on compatibility with Amazon Key, which was a primary reason to do it, along with being able to check if the door was closed. It works great, my only complaints are that the notification alerts don’t work like I wanted (it will tell me if the door opens at night, but not if I left it open) and the Amazon Key delivery sucks (~2 days longer for delivery, sometimes don’t even put it in my garage, and have left the door open!).
 

Julian

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I currently have Ring alarm and cameras which replaced an old school alarm, between service and POTS line cost me $50/month, and an Arlo camera setup. Arlo was good, but when I bought it the service was included, only long term video storage was extra. Now you have to pay for any service, and that wasn’t worth it to me. Got a useless Dropcam for same reason.

I use Wemo and a few Lutron Caseta switches for lights. My wife got the Wemos a number of years ago and I like them once the software settled down. last time I had something other that a timer switch was X10, literally a millennium ago. ;) I did replace my outdoor wall lamps with ones that use Wiz (owned by Phillips now, but different than Hue). The interface is clunky, but they have integrated LEDs that you can pick the color, and it comes with holiday color settings preprogrammed.

I had Logitech Harmony, but since that is EOL I refitted my home theater setup so it is now just a TV, AppleTV, and two HomePod speakers. It was too much of a PIA for other family members to get everything in synch. RIP TiVo (first time w/o one since 2000), blu-ray, HT receiver, Bose Acoustamass (sp?).

Several Echos(Alexas) of course. While Siri could do a lot of the same if you shop at Amazon you’ll still want to have Echos. I did get a couple of the small plug-in ones. They work great for the garage workbench and hallways that could be dead zones.

I bought LiftMaster HW to use with my older Sears garage door openers. I didn’t buy the consumer MyQ HW, but the OEM wall switches and bridge as when I was researching it Chamberlain was charging a monthly fee for the consumer kit, which I believe they don’t do anymore. I also read mixed reviews on compatibility with Amazon Key, which was a primary reason to do it, along with being able to check if the door was closed. It works great, my only complaints are that the notification alerts don’t work like I wanted (it will tell me if the door opens at night, but not if I left it open) and the Amazon Key delivery sucks (~2 days longer for delivery, sometimes don’t even put it in my garage, and have left the door open!).
I forget which addon I bought, but there is one that detects the garage door status. On my brother's house I just used standard Ring contact sensors.
 

TimW451

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I forget which addon I bought, but there is one that detects the garage door status. On my brother's house I just used standard Ring contact sensors.
I had forgotten about that, but I recall in my journey on what to do about the garage doors that was suggested. I think that was and still is a great idea. Thanks for mentioning that. (I have like 4 spares of those too.)
 

adrianp89

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Anyone use HomeKit compatible cameras? If so how do they work? It seems Eufy are pretty cheap.
 

JetPowered

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I have one, a Logitech Circle. It worked better as a stand alone. I find HomeKit video processing and video review to be slow and cumbersome. It frequently misses events.

BUT

It could be due to the camera and or the placement of the camera. Grab a EUFY, try it out and return it if it doesn't work well for you.

My other HomeKit camera's are actually imported into HomeKit by way of either Home Assistant or Home Bridge software. With a combination of the two I have been able to bring in a bunch of systems that otherwise would be locked out.

For camera's I've brought in my Unifi Protect cameras and made them HomeKit, including audio. They don't record to the cloud, but they were already recording to the Unifi controller. The same trick works for other RTSP cameras that you may already own. Like my dock cameras at the lake ;)

Other things I have brought into HomeKit:
DSC Alarm Panel; alows me to arm/disarm using Siri, plus check doors/windows AND use those as actionable switches (open patio door after 10:30 on a weeknight, turn on porch lights for 10 minutes)
Ring Doorbell camera and button (turn Hue Lights Red on button press, ding dong on HomePod and video preview on AppleTV/iOS devices/Computer
Pentair pool control? Turn on Spa using siri. Turn on jets. Check water temperature. Turn on pool light!
 

Julian

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Jim_in_Delaware

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We may try Google Mesh Wifi when we move into our new house. We had Wifi extenders in our rental townhome, but were never really happy with the outcome.

Jim
 

seanmclean

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Google Mesh works awesome for me. Have three of the pucks around the house, and even put one out in the backyard by the firepit with a hardwired ethernet lead - fantastic coverage and speed everywhere.
 

Julian

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We may try Google Mesh Wifi when we move into our new house. We had Wifi extenders in our rental townhome, but were never really happy with the outcome.

Jim
I would never go without mesh (or whatever the next new and better solution is). Google isn't rated the best anymore...but it is massively better than standard extenders! I have 4 and like @seanmclean I may add one to our shed to cover the back yard! You won't be unhappy with any mesh system you buy!!!
 

tabbibus

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I had Google and then Nest mesh for the longest time. Initially I was a huge fan. Last year or two I started having lots of wifi issues. Slow speed. Dropped signals. Outages.

Switched to the more expensive eero pro system and I'm in love. Then I added MoCa connections to the three eero spots and my speed is now blazing fast AND reliable.
 
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HangOutdoors

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All Mesh systems are not created equal. There are single band, dual band and tri-band. The key is how they use the backhaul and over which bands it is used. The backhaul is how each Access Point (router/node/etc.) communicates with each other. The fastest and most reliable, of course is wired backhauls.

In a typical dual band system, without a wired backhaul, you will have typically 1 2.4GHz band and a 5 GHz. When the wireless nodes talk to each they will consume one of the bands which bottlenecks transfer speeds. Typically it would be the 5 GHz band unless the range is far between nodes. If it is using the 2.4GHz then you usually see a larger degradation in speed. So in essence the speed from your wireless device to the node would be strong, the internet connection to the primary router is strong but connection between access points becomes slow/bogged down. This is a typical problem with Mesh System that are not structured correctly or only have two bands. Of course it will also depend on how many devices you have on the mesh at anytime. This may not be an issue for just one or two, but bring that number up a lot + with smart devices, cell phones, streaming tv's, computers, security etc. It always creates a bottleneck.

Tri-band Systems will have one 2.4GHz and two 5Ghz so the wireless backhaul would consume one of the 5Ghz bands and make it dedicated. This greatly improves performance and are the fastest Mesh systems available today.

A system like I am running at home is a Tri-Band Mesh System. But I use a wired backhaul, Cat 6 between 3 Mesh Routers. The main router in my home office. One Upstairs and one out in the garage. Additionally I have 3 others which are using wireless backhauls out near the pool and then one back at the rear of the property for range, also one in the basement. Of course wired backhauls are superior in performance on a Mesh system than wireless for speed and continuity. Unfortunately running Cat 6 between some points may not be an optimal solution for some. As I remodeled the house I ran the cabling this last year. I wired backhaul gives you significantly more bandwidth and speed, but a Tri Band Mesh System is the next best thing with a dedicated backhaul.

The other key is also what type of wireless you have. Wifi-6 (802.11ax) is up and coming with full backward compatibility is important. AX if you are buying new which will support a/b/g/n/ac. The other important part is data rate and processer speed of the routers. 1024-QAM high data rate 20/40/80/160 MHz bandwidth

I currently use the ASUS AiMesh system. Which is fantastic because you can continue to grow the system, add more nodes with any of their ASUS routers that support Mesh. So for instance my main router which also controls firewall and security is a ROG Rapture GT-AX11000 | Gaming Routers|ROG - Republic of Gamers|ROG USA (asus.com) and then I use different ASUS routers as access points. You can even use older models as long as they can run the AiMesh firmware, software update. The granularity and configurability of the ASUS Mesh System and routers is the most robust I have seen.

Another fantastic feature of the ASUS AiMesh system is I can easily assign each and every device a preferred node and preferred band and/or channel. So I have my lights and camera's riding on specific bands and connecting to specific nodes. My appliances on different channels, streaming and computers delegated as well with QoS, so that when the entire family is streaming something on every TV and gaming and all their friends are over and using my guest wireless, my computers take priority on channel and bandwidth. Pretty cool stuff. Not too mention I can schedule any band, channel or node to allow connections on a schedule. So for instance I shut of guest wireless at certain times and change priority to cameras and security at night.

Tested through put on my system out the modem to the internet is Max at 1.03 Gbps (1036 Mbps) over the wireless. This is based on my laptop or other devices that have wireless AX cards in them at peak load.

For many users this type of speed and resiliency is not needed. I am in IT and connectivity, latency, saturation, speed and security are big priorities for me from my home office.

One more point of note is that not all Mesh system can use wired back hauls, if you consider doing that someday. If it is a consideration I recommend purchasing as system that has that capability in case you want to use it down the road.

AiMesh home WiFi system | ASUS US
 
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tabbibus

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All Mesh systems are not created equal. There are single band, dual band and tri-band. The key is how they use the backhaul and over which bands it is used. The backhaul is how each Access Point (router/node/etc.) communicates with each other. The fastest and most reliable, of course is wired backhauls.

In a typical dual band system, without a wired backhaul, you will have typically 1 2.4GHz band and a 5 GHz. When the wireless nodes talk to each they will consume one of the bands which bottlenecks transfer speeds. Typically it would be the 5 GHz band unless the range is far between nodes. If it is using the 2.4GHz then you usually see a larger degradation in speed. So in essence the speed from your wireless device to the node would be strong, the internet connection to the primary router is strong but connection between access points becomes slow/bogged down. This is a typical problem with Mesh System that are not structured correctly or only have two bands. Of course it will also depend on how many devices you have on the mesh at anytime. This may not be an issue for just one or two, but bring that number up a lot + with smart devices, cell phones, streaming tv's, computers, security etc. It always creates a bottleneck.

Tri-band Systems will have one 2.4GHz and two 5Ghz so the wireless backhaul would consume one of the 5Ghz bands and make it dedicated. This greatly improves performance and are the fastest Mesh systems available today.

A system like I am running at home is a Tri-Band Mesh System. But I use a wired backhaul, Cat 6 between 3 Mesh Routers. The main router in my home office. One Upstairs and one out in the garage. Additionally I have 3 others which are using wireless backhauls out near the pool and then one back at the rear of the property for range, also one in the basement. Of course wired backhauls are superior in performance on a Mesh system than wireless for speed and continuity. Unfortunately running Cat 6 between some points may not be an optimal solution for some. As I remodeled the house I ran the cabling this last year. I wired backhaul gives you significantly more bandwidth and speed, but a Tri Band Mesh System is the next best thing with a dedicated backhaul.

The other key is also what type of wireless you have. Wifi-6 (802.11ax) is up and coming with full backward compatibility is important. AX if you are buying new which will support a/b/g/n/ac. The other important part is data rate and processer speed of the routers. 1024-QAM high data rate 20/40/80/160 MHz bandwidth

I currently use the ASUS AiMesh system. Which is fantastic because you can continue to grow the system, add more nodes with any of their ASUS routers that support Mesh. So for instance my main router which also controls firewall and security is a ROG Rapture GT-AX11000 | Gaming Routers|ROG - Republic of Gamers|ROG USA (asus.com) and then I use different ASUS routers as access points. You can even use older models as long as they can run the AiMesh firmware, software update. The granularity and configurability of the ASUS Mesh System and routers is the most robust I have seen.

Another fantastic feature of the ASUS AiMesh system is I can easily assign each and every device a preferred node and preferred band and/or channel. So I have my lights and camera's riding on specific bands and connecting to specific nodes. My appliances on different channels, streaming and computers delegated as well with QoS, so that when the entire family is streaming something on every TV and gaming and all their friends are over and using my guest wireless, my computers take priority on channel and bandwidth. Pretty cool stuff. Not too mention I can schedule any band, channel or node to allow connections on a schedule. So for instance I shut of guest wireless at certain times and change priority to cameras and security at night.

Tested through put on my system out the modem to the internet is Max at 1.03 Gbps (1036 Mbps) over the wireless. This is based on my laptop or other devices that have wireless AX cards in them at peak load.

For many users this type of speed and resiliency is not needed. I am in IT and connectivity, latency, saturation, speed and security are big priorities for me from my home office.

One more point of note is that not all Mesh system can use wired back hauls, if you consider doing that someday. If it is a consideration I recommend purchasing as system that has that capability in case you want to use it down the road.
All true and great points. Eero pro has back haul and nest doesn't. But now with moca I'm basically bypassing that.

I have fiber. 1k up and down. I get real world 900/900 on most wired devices and depending on the wifi capabilities of my others like phones and TVs I'm looking at 400/400. So for us everyone can and usually are abusing the network with all sorts of usage and no slow downs.
 

HangOutdoors

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@tabbibus Moca is pretty cool. In essence your coax is the backhaul. What's nice, for those who want a wired backhaul and have existing coax running through the house, it gives them this opportunity without having to drop in Cat6 on fresh runs everywhere. I am amazed from time to time the ingenuity in the Technology Sector.
 

tabbibus

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@tabbibus Moca is pretty cool. In essence your coax is the backhaul. What's nice, for those who want a wired backhaul and have existing coax running through the house, it gives them this opportunity without having to drop in Cat6 on fresh runs everywhere. I am amazed from time to time the ingenuity in the Technology Sector.
I didn't know it was a thing until last month. I was YouTubeing the best ways to get cat6 to different floors and came across it. Blew my mind. Not cheap. But time is money and it's way faster than fishing cables and drilling holes and patching them up.
 

seanmclean

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Wired backhaul on all devices here too, makes a huge difference. Get around 450/450 over wifi (gigabit fiber) using phones that are a couple years old, and the original google wifi.
 

Jim_in_Delaware

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Lol, life is much easy when one is ignorant. Now I have to concern myself with mesh wifi and cat 6 cables! 😆

For me, this is a very timely topic and I appreciate the information given. The framing of our new home started last week, and I'm guessing we will do a walk-through with the electrician in 4 - 5 weeks for the placement of outlets, etc. They are putting cat 6 lines in the house. I hadn't really given the cat 6 lines much thought as we don't use cable for TV and stream everything over the internet. Guess I need to take a second look at the cat 6 lines.

The new house will be about 2400 square feet on the main floor (with the master bedroom and two other bedrooms down) and 1,000 square feet (of finished space) on the second floor. The contract comes with four cat 6 lines, but we can add as many extra as we want to pay for. TV buffering while streaming, has always been our biggest internet complaint, (well, not our biggest, that would be paying for gigabit service and getting 240 mb when we do speed tests!)

I'm guessing we will run six cat 6 lines in the house, four downstairs (living room and three bedrooms) and two additional cat 6 lines upstairs. Any advantage to running a cat 6 line to the garage (it's at the front of the house)? We also won't have a basement, only a crawlspace. So, I'm guessing we would probably want to connect all the smart tv's to cat 6 cables and have two mesh routers, one downstairs and one upstairs?

Jim
 

HangOutdoors

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Have them run a Cat6 drop out to the garage. Some areas require double 5/8" Type X which can reduce signal strength also depending on the construction of the home. Right now it is the perfect time.

For your house I would run one from the upstairs down to where ever your main router will be. One on the first floor and one in the garage. Also, depending on your back yard, you run a drop out to an overhang or put it in a weather proof box outside for future use for another access point. That is all you need. Also an another one where ever you are going to put a home office, that way you have the choice of either going wirelessly or hard wired with your computer. They should all go to the same location, closet, etc. That is where your modem will be and primary router will be.

Additionally if your router will be away from your modem and where the other drops meet (closet, cabinet, etc.), then you will need to run a double run to the primary router and then back to where all the other drops come together and use a network switch, which starts becoming a bit more complex.

The drops should be centrally located on each floor. If you think you are going to have an issue, like I do in my house between the kitchen and the Great room, I put an extra drop in back there in case. I ended putting in an access point as well because the signal got all funny around the corner through the brick.

The TV's can go wirelessly if you like at that point for streaming since it is a short distance than it is on the wired backhaul network. I don't put any of my TV's on the Cat 6, they connect to the a mesh wireless node, which is on the wired backhaul.

If you have a layout of your house I could mark it up for you if like with suggestions.
 
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