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How to add a Shutoff Valve to your boat's cooling system

adrianp89

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What do you guys use to cut the hose?
 

Gym

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PJ73

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Bump
 

Daron

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Ok, so I've given this topic lots of consideration. I like to prepare for the worst, within reason; everybody has their comfort zone. I have a masters degree in chemical engineering, and I know that installing a valve will always create a resistance to flow relative to a no-valve scenario. In this case, I'd have to dig into my old textbooks to figure out what the reduction in flow would be with the valve wide open after I install some pressure valves before and after the ball valve. I'm not going to do this because I spoke with Yamaha and asked them if they knew what kind of tolerance there was with respect to reducing flow by adding a valve, and their answer was simple, "we don't know, we've never tested this, so don't do it". Obviously many have successfully done this on many models, but if you have a warranty, and your engine fails, this is an easy one for Yamaha to use to void your warranty.
That's my perspective.
I'm going with the radiator hose clamps.
Maybe not the easiest to clamp on in rough seas while laying between two hot engines, but that's what I'm comfortable with. And in the end, maybe I'll have some scars to use as a story to tell over a beer or two, or three, or four...
Just my 2 cents.
I just read through this whole thread some areas twice, as I am wanting to do something about being prepared for an engine(s) failure on the water, and not having to go at wake speeds for hours to limp it home. It wouldn't surprise me if every dealer gave you a different answer. I just got off the phone with the dealership I purchased mine from and talked to the service department, they said they encourage them, that the tow valves are a great thing and they recommend them. They said there would be no warranty issues for something like that because it is protecting the boat from severe damage. I think I am leaning towards the Island Racing valves.

My next question may seem dumb, but I am piecing my knowledge of the system together through this forum, so be gentle please. When I pull my boat out of salt water and hook up the hose for flushing my Salt Terminator through the system, do I close the valves? If you leave them open I see it's just normal. But if I close the valves does it force more cleaning solution through the cooling system?

BTW, I found this for dispensing my Salt Terminator through, and so far it works good. They're hard to find, but I think it may be because they might be discontinued. It's much smaller than the picture may make it look. I'll send a pic of mine later when I'm out at the boat. I fill it half way with solution (which is maybe a few ounces) and it takes about 3 minutes to dissolve it all while it's flushing, that's per engine.

Pressure Washer G-Injector -- Green Earth Technologies

91745
 
Last edited:

Daron

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Here it is in “life size”. You can see it barely fits in my hand, I think the total capacity is maybe 7oz. I have it all set up for quick connect hose fittings to my house hose.
91764
 

Daron

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Also, I’m confused on the valve placement. The original poster of this thread placed his AFTER the “Y” fitting. The diagram that was uploaded says to place them on the line UNDER the red line/hose. So in my picture, I place them inline of the BLACK line UNDER the red one, correct? (forward or aft of the stern being my choice). The red line/hose goes to the flush hook up line, correct?
91769
91770
 

JetBoatPenguin

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That is my understanding with what everyone said if you place the shut-off valves in the engine compartment.
 

tdonoughue

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Yes. I, myself, considered placing mine there (in the engine compartment) for about 13 seconds until I actually tried to reach back there and do anything. Then I went for the cleanout tray.
 

Daron

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Yeah, I'm going for the clean out tray area as well, just confirming to install them on the line before the "Y" (under the red line) where the ribbed hose wrap/sleeve is, and follow it through the stern wall aft and then install them there. I was browsing around Lowes yesterday, I didn't buy these but I liked them a lot. They are all very hard and thick PVC and no metal (so no corrosion issues) and plenty of straight or reduction adapters available to choose from. I need to get into the clean out compartment though and measure the inside diameter of my hoses first. Anyone see any reason why these wouldn't work? They really are very strong/hard valves, 3/4" and 1/2" valves available.

91945
91946
 

tdonoughue

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Just that the hose is an odd size. No reason why these shouldn't work, I would think. But I found on doing mine (I bought 2 size valves), one size was too big and one size was too small. I used the too big one, but it was a @#$$@ to get on... I used brass ones, so maybe you will find a better size selection with your reducers?
 

Jgorm

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The brass valves linked earlier work great. I think it was 14 bucks for 2 shipped.
 
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