Modifications to 2016, 242X (Thinking about Bimini...)

[Glen]

First, bunch of buddies that put up with my need to always get on the water (varying boats) and I put up with their need to fish. Very happy friendship.
Fishing on Bimini is certainly a serious possibility, but this mod accelerated itself on the priority list as a buddy was moving out of state, sooner, than later-
BTW, these are stainless, rod and cup holders. Everyone's happy

 

[Glen]

Bunch of shallow water, slow maneuvering on this bass fishing trip, reminded me that that is not a jetboats strength.
For my boat use, it needs to be.
Cobra's (with Fangs) get put in the 242, like they did the 232, year ago-
Could not be happier.
Love the handling improvements and can through the helm to nearly anyone who has driven any boat, and it handles somewhat like they are experienced (non-jet).

 

[Glen]

Next critical step is the second bilge pump.
Purpose is to be a backup for a failed bilge pump system (which is fairly common; had 4 on previous new boat and replace 3 failed systems, over 5 years), as well as be reinforcements of extreme water removal circumstances.
With just the first requirement, you can share the through hull and hoses, which makes it easy. To have the second capability as well, you need to provide another independent through hull system.
I have accumulated the equipment and most of the way through the decision process for where it will be installed and how I will route the through hull system.

Fairly certain that I will install the switched (float) system, which does not cycle the power on a regular basis, in the actual bilge and not in the engine compartment.

I laid it out tonight and believe I am going to use 3M 4300 to secure both the pump and switch base, and then route the out-flow through the keel cut into the engine compartment, then under the starboard driveshaft and cross through to the hull exterior with the starboard engine flush line, and put the through hull with the other 3 (port & starboard engine cooling and engine compartment bilge).

I am going to upgrade the out-flow line to match the OEM line (compared to what is in the picture) and its looking like I will need about 7 feet (bought 5 of this cheaper line).

Would to easier to just head outboard from within that rear compartment, but it gets closer to the waterline, closer to the stern.

I will assess again in the AM and make the final decision.
-Longer run and exit next to the other lines
-Shorter run and be closer to the waterline
Pros & Cons to both-

 

[Glen]

@Julian
have you decided how you are going to run the 2nd bilge pump and outlet?

 

[Julian]

@Julian
have you decided how you are going to run the 2nd bilge pump and outlet?

2nd bilge pump isn't on my short list...and to figure it out I'd have to have my hands on the boat. I bought a 2nd pump and all the fittings for my last boat and never installed it. I did install a bilge alarm. My reasoning was that I had a huge ballast pump on board and that if I had a failed bilge pump, I could just toss the ballast pump in and have a backup. Since I'll still run extra ballast for wake surfing...I'll still have this approach available.

 

[Glen]

Keel Shield Installed.
Was surprised how scuffed the keel was from the single beaching I did very early in the season. (Left the bilge plug out so lightly beached the bow and went under the stern to put the plug back in. Water was cold!

 

[Glen]

Installed the Cobra EZ Locks-
EZ Locks are open in the picture. From here, when you seat the plugs normally, they will Lock automatically.

 

[Glen]

Received, registered (IMEI & Authorization Code) & Sync'd (iPhone) the DeLorme inReach Explorer.
Went with the Freedom/Recreation Plan that allows turning on/off on monthly basis. Unlimited 10 min position reporting and 40 texts/mo.
I am also a fairly aggressive off-roader (Jeep) and have often found myself in places just because I was curious if we could get there-
& heading to a remote cabin outside Bozeman, MT for Elk in Nov
Pay $35/mo, just for the months that I have such an adventure in it. Likely just 4-5 months a year.

Someone always knows where I am (w/ SOS) & it can provide limited 2-way comms, when cell is not available.

Insurance & convenience-

 

[swatski]

Next critical step is the second bilge pump.
Purpose is to be a backup for a failed bilge pump system (which is fairly common; had 4 on previous new boat and replace 3 failed systems, over 5 years), as well as be reinforcements of extreme water removal circumstances.
With just the first requirement, you can share the through hull and hoses, which makes it easy. To have the second capability as well, you need to provide another independent through hull system.
I have accumulated the equipment and most of the way through the decision process for where it will be installed and how I will route the through hull system.

Fairly certain that I will install the switched (float) system, which does not cycle the power on a regular basis, in the actual bilge and not in the engine compartment.

I laid it out tonight and believe I am going to use 3M 4300 to secure both the pump and switch base, and then route the out-flow through the keel cut into the engine compartment, then under the starboard driveshaft and cross through to the hull exterior with the starboard engine flush line, and put the through hull with the other 3 (port & starboard engine cooling and engine compartment bilge).

I am going to upgrade the out-flow line to match the OEM line (compared to what is in the picture) and its looking like I will need about 7 feet (bought 5 of this cheaper line).

Would to easier to just head outboard from within that rear compartment, but it gets closer to the waterline, closer to the stern.

I will assess again in the AM and make the final decision.
-Longer run and exit next to the other lines
-Shorter run and be closer to the waterline
Pros & Cons to both-

@Glen Awesome install. I like the idea of the exit next to the other lines/higher above the waterline, even though it is a longer line reducing pump efficiency/ GPH. Still safer I think, if things would go really bad - you would not want your bilge pump out-flow submerged.
How are you wiring it? Hard wired to the battery and a separate/on switch in the dash? (I mean like in a normal boat?) (Gosh, I hate that OEM system.)

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[Glen]

@Glen Awesome install. I like the idea of the exit next to the other lines/higher above the waterline, even though it is a longer line reducing pump efficiency/ GPH. Still safer I think, if things would go really bad - you would not want your bilge pump out-flow submerged.
How are you wiring it? Hard wired to the battery and a separate/on switch in the dash? (I mean like in a normal boat?) (Gosh, I hate that OEM system.)

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I have come to the same conclusion.
Planning on longer, higher egress.
Have decided to add the below switch/alarm, in the battery locker, for this high volume pump.
Ease wiring, loose light ID, gain audible alarm if this secondary pump runs for 2 minutes.
Everything is a trade off in boats. I am comfortable with these-

http://aqualarm.net/high-water-bilge-alarms-c-8/20346-smart-bilge-alarm-12v-p-67.html?zenid=ac3f6bf305206a210d1b69693cc812db

20346 Smart Bilge Alarm, 12v

Found it cheaper at Defender.
Hoping to have done in the next few days. Will share once validated-

 

[Bruce]

I want you to install a refrigerator to test if it will fit in a new 242'

 

[Glen]

I want you to install a refrigerator to test if it will fit in a new 242'

I have the ultimate fridge (ARB, 50 quart; http://www.amazon.com/ARB-10800472-Fridge-Freezer-Quart/dp/B002Q1INDM)

It is designed for those going off the grid (Jeepers) for 5+days. It is therefore big (insulation) and very power efficient. I had used it on previous larger boat (sail) that we would go days w/o touching shore power. Power constrained.

So far, I have yet to see the use case for my use on the Yamaha, as nearly every night I have access to ice and the engine is running often, charging the batteries.
Power is available, but larger issue for me is space.

Were my cooler smaller, I would consider putting it on the floor of the port storage room, and install a 'cigarette lighter' outlet to power it. Should be an easy run from the battery bank in the port stern locker.

Will welcome your thoughts and hope to gain more practical experience when we are playing off Bimini.

Thank you for all the work you have done and share with all of us. LOVE THIS JETBOATERS GROUP!

 

[Bruce]

I looked at the ARBs but decided on permanently installing a Dometic into previously unused space. It is the number one mod that my family will insist on when we upgrade boats. We turn it on in the spring and let it run until we put the the boat away for winter.




https://jetboaters.net/threads/installing-dometic-waeco-cd-030dcw-refrigerator-in-yamaha-sx230.2630/

 

[swatski]

I looked at the ARBs but decided on permanently installing a Dometic into previously unused space. It is the number one mod that my family will insist on when we upgrade boats. We turn it on in the spring and let it run until we put the the boat away for winter.

View attachment 38315


https://jetboaters.net/threads/installing-dometic-waeco-cd-030dcw-refrigerator-in-yamaha-sx230.2630/

I don't know @Bruce, looks a bit like an afterthought...

(I'm not talking about the fridge, just that lonely Beck's thrown in there...)

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[Glen]

Love it Bruce!
May be this Winter's mod!

 

[latitudeadjuster]

Hey @Glen ....I see you are in our neck of the woods. We are hitting Bimini also.....cant wait! Nice mods to your 242!

 

[Bennie]

@Glen - Do you have a link to those cup/rod holders? That looks like a great mod.
Perfect for flag poles as well!!

 

[Glen]

@Glen - Do you have a link to those cup/rod holders? That looks like a great mod.
Perfect for flag poles as well!!

I do put my flag there as well. Nice catch!

 

[Glen]

@Glen - Do you have a link to those cup/rod holders? That looks like a great mod.
Perfect for flag poles as well!!

This is what I installed in the stern. Only the 15 degree in the back, as there is already some slope towards the back. After 3 trips, all rods have stayed in the holder from everything to trolling to full speed heading back to the ramp.

http://www.amazon.com/Combination-Holder-Stainless-bottom-degree/dp/B00NYD0ZA0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I also bought these which are 30 degree rounds that I plan on installing on the bow. I have yet to have the need/time/motivation to install these, yet. The thought is that it would be good for the kids fishing with bobbers or bottom fishing. And who wouldn't use an extra set of cup holder-

http://www.amazon.com/Combination-Holder-Stainless-bottom-degree/dp/B00NYD0QA4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

 

[Glen]

Got as far as securing the base of the float switch and the back-up bilge pump, before deciding that rushing to get it in tonight was not a good idea.

When you find yourself patting yourself on the back for such a fine, double shrink sealed connection of the bilge switch,..., to the bilge switch, it is time to take a step back and do the rest of the work when you are not so time pressed and distracted.

I have decided that I am going to add a 3 way, smart switch (with alarm) to the battery box for this, and run the outlet under/around the engines to exit next to the primary/smaller bilge exit. It is a 10 foot run of 1" but I didn't like the height above the water line of exiting in that very back compartment.