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Mounting a Thru Hull transducer

Nice job @txav8r ! Now, where on the boat did you install that thru hull?? Is it just on the other side of one of the intakes??
 
I haven't had a stripped hole in the clean out tray yet on the Blue Yonder, @utahrd , but I did have a stripped screw hole on the Nauti Dawg. I do have some chipped gelcoat and that can easily be fixed as well. You can even beef them up besides repairing them. I discovered a product years ago doing woodworking called Quickwood. It is a two part epoxy stick that is like a tootsie roll in consistency. It has the catalyst in the middle and wrapped with the epoxy outside. You just slice as much as you think you need and the mix ratio is established by the inside and outside amount, no matter what length you slice from it. You just mix it by mashing it up in your fingers until a uniform color. I have mashed it into and behind a few holes numerous time and then aligned my tray or speaker, marked it, drilled a pilot hole through it the screw diameter not counting the threads, and screwed it down. That hole will probably never fail again. The best part of this is that the Quickwood can be painted, sanded, stained, or whatever. I actually have about 7 jars of epoxy dye that I use to tint epoxy for wood projects. I just throw a little tint the mix if my repair will show. But under the tray, there is not much reason to tint it and the tint is a PIA because it tends to gum up the mix more if your wearing nitrile gloves, or stain your fingers if your not. JB Weld, Marinetex, and others make similar sticks and may be easier to find locally. I can't speak for the setup time on them, but the Quickwood sets up in 30 minutes, so I can make a repair and be done with it. It comes in tan and brown. As I was typing this, I realized that this would be an invaluable product in your motorhome as well! Here is a link on Amazon to order it...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=087R4BE4V2MYDW4DZGH2
Or you can pick it up at your local Woodcraft!
Woodcraft of Salt Lake City/South Valley
Pheasant Hollow Business Park Bldg. No. 4
9891 South 500 WestSandy, UT 84070
Call Us: (801) 566-5652
Fax Us: (801) 566-5264
Email Us: saltlakecity-retail@woodcraft.com
 
I don't know if you can tell more from this pic @Jim Robeson . The best location on the 240 was in the lower bilge area between the intake grates. From inside, you have to identify where the nut will fit flush with the least amount of sanding or prep and on the outside, the flange of the transducer won't overlap any uneven surfaces or edges. I put it almost in the opposite spot from the stock thru hull on my boat. There was some fiberglass reinforced mat in the corner that forced me to move the new transducer just a little farther aft than the stock unit, but they are pretty symmetrical. This pic is laying under the boat just forward of the intakes, looking aft along the keel line. The 240 is so flat in that area, that the actual center keel is hard to see there, just a slight curvature from one intake to the other. Hope that helps. On your 230, you will find a place in the lower bilge under the tray somewhere, but it may be slightly different than the 240. I have interior pics of my 230, I will look to see if I can find a descriptive pic for you to use as a guide.
IMG_5488.JPG
 
Here is the finished transducer...
IMG_9490.jpeg
 
Nice Install. Can you tell us what Device you will pair with your Transducer?
 
That looks great Mel!

p.s. I did the cleanout tray gasket mod last weekend. i had totally had it with removing 4200 (again). every time i remove the cleanout tray i say "thank goodness i wont have to do that again...." and then 3 months later another mod comes along.

p.s. what do you guys do for stripped screw holes, as is common in the cleanout tray?

I know this is old... but @utahrd what is this gasket mod you speak of?
 
@utahrd and I have done a mod under the cleanout tray. We removed the screws that hold the tray in, and removed the old caulk and cleaned it off completely. Then we just used a gasket from Home Depot or equivalent. I used a vinyl gasket instead of open cell rubber, so it wouldn't absorb water. It was about 1/2"x1/2". I say about, because I measured compression and made sure I would get good coverage, it may have been bigger or smaller, and now thinking, it was 5/8" I think. It is backed with 3M adhesive with a peel off strip to expose it. Just place this under the cleanout tray on a clean face. You may find, depending on your boat year and model, that it is better to install this under the tray, vs on the lip of the boat that the tray sits in. If you put it on the boat lip, it is smooth, and sanding with 220 grit around the lip will give better adhesion. It is a great mod...makes removing that tray a breeze! I can get into the bilge anytime I need to.
 
@utahrd and I have done a mod under the cleanout tray. We removed the screws that hold the tray in, and removed the old caulk and cleaned it off completely. Then we just used a gasket from Home Depot or equivalent. I used a vinyl gasket instead of open cell rubber, so it wouldn't absorb water. It was about 1/2"x1/2". I say about, because I measured compression and made sure I would get good coverage, it may have been bigger or smaller, and now thinking, it was 5/8" I think. It is backed with 3M adhesive with a peel off strip to expose it. Just place this under the cleanout tray on a clean face. You may find, depending on your boat year and model, that it is better to install this under the tray, vs on the lip of the boat that the tray sits in. If you put it on the boat lip, it is smooth, and sanding with 220 grit around the lip will give better adhesion. It is a great mod...makes removing that tray a breeze! I can get into the bilge anytime I need to.

Picture?
 
I didn't take one. It's a pretty simple mod past cleaning the old silicone off the damn lip.
 
I am just trying to determine what to use as a seal from HD. Are you just using a vinyl door seal or something?
 
I used a 5/8" x 5/8" vinyl based square weather stripping. I don't remember the length but I bought two bags of it. I actually bought several sizes and tested, using what worked best. I know the different compounds in the weather stripping is confusing. It was confusing to me too. Most didn't say waterproof, this one did.
 
5/8"! Wholly smokes... that seems really thick. Does it compress much?
 
Almost completely. Probably less than 1/8" after compressing. The stuff is soft.some year models didn't even have silicone. But it needs it. The weather stripping is perfect.
 
How is this working out for you? I am 90% sure I am going with a thru-hull like this. No sense in half assing it if I am going to do the job plus Id like water temp.

I have a 190 so I dont have the option of between the grates. Current speed sensor is just right of the intake so I am wondering if this area would be ok? Do you have any issues due to the intake being right there or does it scan pretty well?
 
I had no issue with accuracy or disturbance. But again, I had a twin engine boat.
 
I had no issue with accuracy or disturbance. But again, I had a twin engine boat.

If you had a daughter and she got married, would you say "had a daughter"?
I dare say have a boat, just different household.
 
If you had a daughter and she got married, would you say "had a daughter"?
I dare say have a boat, just different household.
You can't sell family members.....that I know of....if you can...I have a SIL for sale! LOL
 
If your sister in law is in the same shape/condition as the Yonder, I am writing to my congressman to make the practice legal.
 
Can you just remove the yamaha ducer and use that same hole for the upgraded one? Once you put the fishfinder in you won't ever use the yamaha's depth or temp readings. Does it do anything else?
 
I was wondering the same thing dos anyone have an answer?
 
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