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Need help! Engine cranks for two seconds then stops....

Doing this B. C. so first be sure the ground wire to the engine is tight and clean but if the impeller is binding here is an easy way to check just spray some WD 40 in the pump via the nozzle opening and if the engine turns over easier the issue is dissimilar metal corrosion causing the pump liner to swell and drag on the impeller. Usually you will have visible black streaks on the liner surface from the friction as well
 
GOT IT STARTED!!!!!!!

WD-40d the entire pump last night and let it sit overnight. Also charged the brand new battery overnight, and put it in the boat this morning, and attempted to start one more time. First attempt it cranked for close to 7 seconds before I stopped it. Second attempt it fired right up, but sounded terrible. I think it is definitely dissimilar metal corrosion causing the pump liner to swell and drag on the impeller. I ran the boat for a few mins on the garden hose and the sound began to slowly go away (I'm guessing it began grinding down on the contact points). I then shut it off and waited a few minutes and started it up again, and it fired right up with no issues at all.

I recorded video of the boat running and I think the prop is definitely making contact with the pump liner, let me know if you agree.

Startup 1

Startup 2
 
GOT IT STARTED!!!!!!!

WD-40d the entire pump last night and let it sit overnight. Also charged the brand new battery overnight, and put it in the boat this morning, and attempted to start one more time. First attempt it cranked for close to 7 seconds before I stopped it. Second attempt it fired right up, but sounded terrible. I think it is definitely dissimilar metal corrosion causing the pump liner to swell and drag on the impeller. I ran the boat for a few mins on the garden hose and the sound began to slowly go away (I'm guessing it began grinding down on the contact points). I then shut it off and waited a few minutes and started it up again, and it fired right up with no issues at all.

I recorded video of the boat running and I think the prop is definitely making contact with the pump liner, let me know if you agree.

Startup 1

Startup 2
Yes that is the routine with a bad pump liner and if you run in salt water buy some zinc anodes and add them to your pump housing to help reduce the problem.
 
Yes that is the routine with a bad pump liner and if you run in salt water buy some zinc anodes and add them to your pump housing to help reduce the problem.

Actually just put a new anode on the port side a month ago, replaced the old one. Going to order the parts now of what I need to replace the swollen impeller housing. Hopefully all goes smoothly. My impeller does not look too bad, dont think I need a new impeller, but wonder if its worth just replacing that too while I'm at it.
 
Probably don't need an impeller, I put 850 plus hours on my impellers and replace the pump liner section when it starts to do what your experienced but I also add gear lube to the pump housing grease and have not had a pump wear out yet just curious as to why you have the spring disconnected on your steering???
 
just curious as to why you have the spring disconnected on your steering???

spring disconnected on my steering? its not disconnected, the rudder is just folded up. unless I am not sure what you are referring to?
 
Awesome news!
 
Pictures of my impeller. Has a few dings but overall not bad. Considering replacing it, but not sure...
 

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it is definitely disconnected inner arm goes behind the nozzle steering arm and the outer arm goes over the top of the fin
 

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it is definitely disconnected inner arm goes behind the nozzle steering arm and the outer arm goes over the top of the fin

O I see, so the part of the spring that I drew the arrow from has to go behind the steering arm where the arrow is pointed to?
 

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OK now you have it but you will need to unbolt the spring to get the arm to go behind the nozzle without damaging the inner spring arm also use some thread lock when you reinstall that long bolt
 
OK now you have it but you will need to unbolt the spring to get the arm to go behind the nozzle without damaging the inner spring arm also use some thread lock when you reinstall that long bolt

Gotcha! Will do. To be honest it's been like this since 2017 when I bought the boat from the previous seller haha. I didn't know the spring arm was in the incorrect position. Thanks for pointing that out!
 
So today I replaced the impeller housing after concluding (assuming) that that was causing my starting issue, the housing was so swollen it wouldnt allow my prop to spin.

Here is a picture of the old housing, clearly it was rubbing badly.
20210624_105229.jpg

And the new one! Beautiful!
20210624_125015.jpg

Just waiting on some new grease to come in the mail so I can grease the jet bearings under the cone. (figured since I have everything apart, I may as well do some preventative maintenance)

Now comes the important question, what do you guys think of my impeller? Worth replacing? I put the new impeller housing on the impeller and it did not rub at all, however there appeared to be a bit of space between the impeller and the new housing, but not much. (supposedly its only supposed to clear the housing by a space about the thickness of 3 sheets of paper)

But by looking at the impeller, clearly it was rubbing badly so I can tell the impeller is definitely filed down a bit. Few dings on the blades, but not too bad. What do you guys think? Replace?

20210624_143058.jpg

20210624_143106.jpg

20210624_143135.jpg

20210624_143149.jpg
 
So today I replaced the impeller housing after concluding (assuming) that that was causing my starting issue, the housing was so swollen it wouldnt allow my prop to spin.

Here is a picture of the old housing, clearly it was rubbing badly.
View attachment 154646

And the new one! Beautiful!
View attachment 154647

Just waiting on some new grease to come in the mail so I can grease the jet bearings under the cone. (figured since I have everything apart, I may as well do some preventative maintenance)

Now comes the important question, what do you guys think of my impeller? Worth replacing? I put the new impeller housing on the impeller and it did not rub at all, however there appeared to be a bit of space between the impeller and the new housing, but not much. (supposedly its only supposed to clear the housing by a space about the thickness of 3 sheets of paper)

But by looking at the impeller, clearly it was rubbing badly so I can tell the impeller is definitely filed down a bit. Few dings on the blades, but not too bad. What do you guys think? Replace?

View attachment 154648

View attachment 154649

View attachment 154650

View attachment 154651
The one with "teeth" ain't great, but I'd probably keep running with it if I wasn't noticing any cavitation.
 
The one with "teeth" ain't great, but I'd probably keep running with it if I wasn't noticing any cavitation.

How will I know if its cavitating? Obviously have to put the pump back together and take it into the water and run it. But what would I look for?

The boat ran great all last year, never had any issues getting up to speed or pulling people out of the water wakeboarding/tubing.

I'm just curious if getting a brand new impeller will drastically improve pickup speeds, etc.
 
How will I know if its cavitating? Obviously have to put the pump back together and take it into the water and run it. But what would I look for?

The boat ran great all last year, never had any issues getting up to speed or pulling people out of the water wakeboarding/tubing.

I'm just curious if getting a brand new impeller will drastically improve pickup speeds, etc.
One way to tell is to look for burn marks on the blades ....it looks like this:unnamed.jpg

If its bad you'll hear and feel it.
 
I agree. I don't think that is at replacement yet. Do take a file and smooth it up a little. Mine was worse than yours when I pulled it last. I took the file to it (mostly to remove the burrs, not to smooth out the leading edge necessarily). Between that and putting more caulk in all of the intake path gaps--made a world of difference. Still have those same stock impellers today...
 
Wouldn't the slight imbalance of the prop due to nicks and weight imbalances at high rpms possibly cause an issue over time?
 
Yes, it can. So you want to not remove too much material and you want to do so as evenly as possible. That is why you want to take off the burrs only, really. That removes the least material with the biggest impact. And if you take burrs off all of the blades, you have balance again.
 
Yes, it can. So you want to not remove too much material and you want to do so as evenly as possible. That is why you want to take off the burrs only, really. That removes the least material with the biggest impact. And if you take burrs off all of the blades, you have balance again.

Sounds like I'd rather just spend the $250 and have a brand new impeller and not have to worry about anything.
 
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