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Repairing and Overhauling a 2010 242 LS (pic heavy)

VitaminSea

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Really like how you ran the charger to the base of a cup holder.
 

jmargo

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That black came out good.
 

Ronnie

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Did some test fitting of the impact graphics. These were cut for a 252. I need them closer to the bow. I will know by next weekend if this is the pattern / configuration I will go with.
77B36CB5-0E3E-495A-B865-97DFC9E529F7.jpeg
 

Ronnie

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Slowly but surely, it’s coming together.
Got the stern remote and cup holder / charger installed along with the blower system and reinstalled the sound absorbing foam in the engine compartment. Next I will work the foam for the underside of the engine compartment hatch.
4F9BACFA-C292-4F17-8F8B-0A63A1FC88DB.png121A4DE5-5751-4272-853C-DF3D39078959.png35388551-6062-45B7-8ECA-407D1E833D51.jpeg44F23CA4-D01D-4F57-BD23-C15272376C8B.jpeg
 

Ronnie

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I just drilled and threaded new mounting points for the pneumatic seat pedestal i purchased a few months ago. It took longer to gather the materials and watch how to videos than it did to actually do the job.

Summarily, I drilled pilot holes first, put WD40 in each pilot hole, threaded each hole about half way before removing, cleaning and lubricating the tap and mounting hole prior completing the threading / tapping of the same. Cleaned up the area and mounted the pedestal with red loctite. Install tip, the grooved part of the pedestal is supposed to be facing forward/toward the bow. Also used tape to mark how far i needed to drill and thread But it wasn’t necessary because it is clear when the drill passes all the way through metal plate in that location.
EA2F0C42-61A3-4490-898F-8C2234CD5653.jpeg057009C4-379E-49C5-9A52-5EBB26A369F3.jpegE822D03B-E2A1-4129-AB6D-8DAC33BE8AE6.jpeg57A60D0E-D2DF-464E-8E1F-65F322420FED.jpegC9E07EA4-FE73-4E34-A179-50C72AB087FD.jpegAAB8FDA9-39FC-48A4-A2C8-3FE16FD7DFBC.jpeg
 

Ronnie

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Before I begin, my allergies are making working on the boat, especially on hot days, very, very difficult. Over the counter meds are just not doing it.

Yesterday i removed the cobra fin / lateral thruster assemblies in prep for installing a new set of fins and fangs later this week, after I paint the reverse buckets and / or steering nozzle.

I also completed the installation of the impact graphics, matching registration numbers and decals.

Finally, I cleaned and reinstalled the top half of rhe tower.

The upholstery skins are supposed to be shipped to me later this week. There are still quite a few things to do but I think I’m on target to complete the boat by the end of May, hopefully a week earlier so it’s first day back in the water is not a busy holiday weekend.
DB8330D1-DD51-40AC-9409-9468FEA38B2B.jpeg
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Ronnie

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While waiting on the new upholstery skins I’m trying to get some little things done on the boat. Hopefully the pics are self explanatory because i don’t feel like typing much. I will state that it took a few hours to disconnect, move and reconnect the fresh water tank so that I could reinstall the bilge pump and fresh water tank overflow outlets through the impact graphics. I c had So much fun in that cramped hot compartment. Going to go the other side soon to reinstall the batteries.
103C5618-F0B9-49B6-B136-2DC22C54E0CF.jpeg02F0738F-5F25-419B-BF59-CD4AC88558D4.jpeg2AD5F2FA-DBCA-4814-B103-1AE3B73C96BD.jpeg
 

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VitaminSea

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Wow, lots of detail work there. What’s the red spout for, as I see the pair of cooling outflows are in another photo?
 

Ronnie

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The red port is the overflow for the fresh water tank, it’s near the bilge pump port. The other two ports are the cooling spouts (aka pissers) one for each engine. The latter three are metal upgrades that I installed a few years ago. The first one is the stock unit that I painted red (a metal upgrade wasn’t available, at least not that I know of):
 
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FSH 210 Sport

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While waiting on the new upholstery skins I’m trying to get some little things done on the boat. Hopefully the pics are self explanatory because i don’t feel like typing much. I will state that it took a few hours to disconnect, move and reconnect the fresh water tank so that I could reinstall the bilge pump and fresh water tank overflow outlets through the impact graphics. I c had So much fun in that cramped hot compartment. Going to go the other side soon to reinstall the batteries.
View attachment 199575View attachment 199580View attachment 199578
Looking good Ronnie! Man! You’ve got a ton of sweat equity in this project as well as cash! Speaks a lot of your work ethic!
 

Ronnie

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Looking good Ronnie! Man! You’ve got a ton of sweat equity in this project as well as cash! Speaks a lot of your work ethic!
Thanks for the compliment. I hope I can continue to live up to it. I’m getting really tired of driveway boating, this season of it has been way too long already.
 

Ronnie

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I managed to cut new base boards for the two big seat cushions in the bow. The oem starboard failed soon after I bought the boat in 2012. I went nuts when I reinforced it plywood. This time around I used 1/2” thick plywood which is the same thickness as the oem starboard. However, I didn’t like how it flexed when I put pressure on it so I cut and water sealed some new reinforcement boards out of the same 1/2” plywood. This time I plan to use glue and only a few screws to hold the boards in place while the glue dries.
 

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Ronnie

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Probably too much, too pimp but I don’t care, one is going on the boat and the other my Waverunner if I can find a good spot for it.
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Ronnie

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I put some sealed plywood on the bottom of the battery compartment so the tray with bunk slides installed on the bottom would slide on it ( a little) easier. I also got the batteries and new three bank charger installed and tested (everything seems to be in working order). Finally I relocated the “YAMAHA” letters and symbol/trademark.
640CAEE7-AEC9-4C23-B851-A7C0C0F029BE.jpeg56ED8AB0-91EF-4142-89D8-AFED5D16844C.jpeg7D9D03C9-21B8-497A-9785-C8745B75C34B.jpegAB0F42DC-6E23-45CA-B516-2BC9AD59E975.jpeg37302E2E-7824-4D38-A605-21AB171321F5.jpeg398ED5E6-F8F8-4A04-BC02-18DE68130296.jpegFD0FFA10-B5A1-48D7-ACC6-671ADAE9B111.jpegC9329D21-B6F6-4A3B-9BD8-FB47441960DB.jpeg024F996F-BE38-4111-A243-3C3E282AEDEB.jpeg
 

RobbieO

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While waiting on the new upholstery skins I’m trying to get some little things done on the boat. Hopefully the pics are self explanatory because i don’t feel like typing much. I will state that it took a few hours to disconnect, move and reconnect the fresh water tank so that I could reinstall the bilge pump and fresh water tank overflow outlets through the impact graphics. I c had So much fun in that cramped hot compartment. Going to go the other side soon to reinstall the batteries.
View attachment 199575View attachment 199580View attachment 199578
Let’s not forget to replace the scupper…I’m sure you plan on putting a stainless steel one on that bad boy
 

Ronnie

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Let’s not forget to replace the scupper…I’m sure you plan on putting a stainless steel one on that bad boy
Your Timing is great. I bought it months ago and was going to install it tonight after work. That task has now been rescheduled to tomorrow morning or tomorrow night.

the scuppers on the first generation 240s is a lot higher and easier to get to than the ones in the last generation 230s so it’s not as fatal if the oem plastic version fails but I’ve gone this far so I plan to go all the way.

It’s just too damn hot to work on the boat after 9a and before 6p here, besides I have to work. If I could redo anything so far it would be to prioritize refitting the Bimini top and extension.
 

Ronnie

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I reset my work space and so I’m ready to tackle some of the smaller modifications, including tinting the exterior of the windows, ta-attaching the Bimini top, installing an SS scupper valve
And new upholstery skins.

looks Like swapping parts between trailers is next. I was going to replace the bow roller with the ramp n clamp I already have but am now thinking about the drotto boat catch and release system instead.

here are pics of the standard rivet gum o bought and the heavy duty model my brother lent me. Also pictured is the mirror tint I’m going with.

A4E18AE1-04CE-4170-AD2A-D567E99E1D40.jpeg9D9329B6-F39E-498E-AF76-0BD9B9008CD0.jpeg7CCC83EE-7E22-4E26-BD46-F7102F6E8F02.jpegE737F6CB-D905-45A3-B01D-6A6F1D7435DB.jpeg2B2626D1-AD27-46C8-8BC2-9C629817855C.jpeg
 

Ronnie

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I replaced the scupper after work today. I thought I would remove the nut holding the oem unit in with a pair of channel locks but I ended up snapping it off at the neck while trying to disconnect the hose. It was very brittle so I’m glad decided to replace it. The neck looked like it had a dormant prehistoric insect in it but it turned out to be a hair clip. I ended up replacing the hose clamp as well. Overall it was an easy modification with cleaning the outer hull surface took the most time. 60 minutes start to finish.
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Ronnie

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I upgraded the Bimini top frame mounts on the tower and reinstalled the top today. No pics.

I also upgraded the throttle assembly to the 2017 model. The difference being that the 2017 has an extra detent in the forward position (that is, N to FWD to FWD +1 to WOT, the 2010 does not have a FWD + 1 position). Took about two hours, including lubing the cables, moving the throttle sync, prep and cleanup. The 2017 assembly also had another sensor and lead, I think its connext system related.
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