Shallow water damage :/

[orexismd]

So i hit bottom taking off in shallow water over an oyster bed in the marsh and broke the articulating keel retaining plate. Ordering a new one from Yamaha Sports Plaza but have a question about the black sealant that is used to seal when fixing it to the hull. Is this just regular marine black silicone sealant they use?

 

[haknslash]

Probably a 3M marine adhesive like 5200 or something but I don't know for sure. There are a few people on here who have had to replace theirs so maybe they will chime in. Sucks you got damage!

 

[orexismd]

Has a silicone/rubbery feel to it. As far as the damage goes, could be worse- hull seems intact and the retaining plate looks easy to replace. Absolutely loving this boat down here in southern Louisiana. Seems to be a good mix for marsh and being able to cross the lakes on windy days in 2-4 foot seas. However, I haven't fished in grassy areas yet.

 

[swatski]

So i hit bottom taking off in shallow water over an oyster bed in the marsh and broke the articulating keel retaining plate. Ordering a new one from Yamaha Sports Plaza but have a question about the black sealant that is used to seal when fixing it to the hull. Is this just regular View attachment 85103 marine black silicone sealant they use?

Are you sure that is original (OEM) sealant - it looks slobbered all over... IIRC they use some kind of epoxy paste for those parts, but I would not hesitate to use the strongest sealant, which would be 5200 - it comes in white but also black.

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[Jgorm]

5200.

 

[Julian]

I wouldnt use 5200 as that stuff is pretty permanent. 4200 would be better IMHO. What if you do this again? With 5200 you'd be chiseling it off!

 

[Gym]

It also looks like that piece is through hull bolted. I think you'll have to get your hands inside the lower bilge to hold or loosen the retaining nuts & washers. You want to seal that side also.

 

[seanmclean]

As another fellow with a cracked AK mount, it IS throughbolted. My impact resulted in taking on water at the throughbolts, so definitely seal well (and possibly plan for a little glass work if cracked on the inside).

 

[swatski]

I would treat this as a permanent repair/fix!
Even if you do it again... (I wouldn;t plan on it, lol)
To me, it is no different than damaging the hull.

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[Julian]

I would treat this as a permanent repair/fix!
Even if you do it again... (I wouldn;t plan on it, lol)
To me, it is no different than damaging the hull.

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I broke my rudder once too. I think this will not be uncommon, thus the need to be able to easily remove and replace as needed.

 

[Seadeals]

You know, if you put a prop on the bottom of that thing you would only have to worry about dinging up a prop.

 

[swatski]

You know, if you put a prop on the bottom of that thing you would only have to worry about dinging up a prop.

Well, I tried that for a few years on my river. After few dozen props and three entire lower units... I got a jet. lol.

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[Jgorm]

That should put that on a pop up hinge.

 

[Britboater]

Windshield adhesive/sealant.

 

[orexismd]

Spoke to the service department at Gulfshore Power Sports and they said they put 5200 on it. Spoke to people at West Marine who work on their boats and they recommended 4200 as 5200 would be too permanent and may cause damage to the hull if it happens again- which I tend to agree with. The material seems almost rubber-like. Here it is with the retaining plate and keel removed. Going to need a little gelcoat repair but overall could be worse...

 

[orexismd]

Maybe this is the ticket-

Boatlife lifecalk

A synthetic rubber with excellent adhesive properties. A good caulking compound that has a combination of adhesion and is flexible. The best choice for most deck fittings except plastic

Versatile one-part adhesive/sealant for hardware sealing and bedding above and below the waterline.

One-part, thiokol-based polysulfide sealant cures to a positive waterproof seal. Resists oil, brine, gas, water and most chemicals. Bonds to wood, fiberglass, metal and glass. No priming required except on oily woods such as teak.

Key features

• Permanently flexible marine sealant
• Can be sanded and painted
• Resistance to teak oils, gasoline, and diesel fuel
• Will bond to fiberglass, wood, metal, glass, and itself
• Cures to a firm flexible rubber seal
• Can be applied underwater

Specifications

• Formulation: One-part polysulfide
• Recommended Usage: Fiberglass, wood, metal, glass, above and below water
• Material Incompatibilities: Not recommended for use with ABS or Lexan plastics
• Adhesion Rating: Tensile: 170 psi;
• Ultimate elongation: 500%
• Cure Time: Tack-free: 24hrs.; Complete cure: 10-20 days
• Cleanup: Life-Calk Solvent, Model 139592
• Removal: Mechanical removal

Properties

• Both good adhesives and good sealants.
• Bonds well to teak and primed oily woods
• Polysulfides have good resistance to UV
• Polysulfides also possess excellent resistance to petroleum products
• Can be painted.

Disadvantages Solvents in Polysulfide and Polyurethane will soften some plastic, Do not use with Plexiglas or Lexan ports

 

[swatski]

Spoke to the service department at Gulfshore Power Sports and they said they put 5200 on it. Spoke to people at West Marine who work on their boats and they recommended 4200 as 5200 would be too permanent and may cause damage to the hull if it happens again- which I tend to agree with. The material seems almost rubber-like. Here it is with the retaining plate and keel removed. Going to need a little gelcoat repair but overall could be worse...

View attachment 85218 View attachment 85219

This is a bit different than what I had in mind.
With this type of damage:

Ideally you would not want to apply any kind of adhesive/sealant without fixing the gelcoat first - with exposed fiberglass/FRP.
Spectrum sells Yamaha OEM gelcoat paste kits, 2oz, perfect for those kind of repairs.

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[zipper]

Maybe this is the ticket-

Boatlife lifecalk

A synthetic rubber with excellent adhesive properties. A good caulking compound that has a combination of adhesion and is flexible. The best choice for most deck fittings except plastic

Versatile one-part adhesive/sealant for hardware sealing and bedding above and below the waterline.

One-part, thiokol-based polysulfide sealant cures to a positive waterproof seal. Resists oil, brine, gas, water and most chemicals. Bonds to wood, fiberglass, metal and glass. No priming required except on oily woods such as teak.

Key features

• Permanently flexible marine sealant
• Can be sanded and painted
• Resistance to teak oils, gasoline, and diesel fuel
• Will bond to fiberglass, wood, metal, glass, and itself
• Cures to a firm flexible rubber seal
• Can be applied underwater

Specifications

• Formulation: One-part polysulfide
• Recommended Usage: Fiberglass, wood, metal, glass, above and below water
• Material Incompatibilities: Not recommended for use with ABS or Lexan plastics
• Adhesion Rating: Tensile: 170 psi;
• Ultimate elongation: 500%
• Cure Time: Tack-free: 24hrs.; Complete cure: 10-20 days
• Cleanup: Life-Calk Solvent, Model 139592
• Removal: Mechanical removal

Properties

• Both good adhesives and good sealants.
• Bonds well to teak and primed oily woods
• Polysulfides have good resistance to UV
• Polysulfides also possess excellent resistance to petroleum products
• Can be painted.

Disadvantages Solvents in Polysulfide and Polyurethane will soften some plastic, Do not use with Plexiglas or Lexan ports

x2 on the Life Seal/Calk products. And you can get it in black. Compare the two formulas to see which will be best for any particular situation. I do like 3-m stuff. I use 4200 and 5200 for certain purposes. I also use Life Seal, on the Beneteau for certain jobs. I laughed when the guy installing the Raymarine RV-200 thru hull sonar transducer said "Friends don't let friends use 5200". And he was right for that purpose.

This is not the first articulating keel mount I have seen broken in the same spot on this forum. I would use something that would allow removal. Someone with a service manual can lookup and see what Yamaha uses.

Edit: It took me a few tries at rolling the tube to get a single legible picture of the back of the tube in panoramic. Close enough.

 

[swatski]

Well, looks like @zipper et al. are right on.
Here is the manual, looks like they use "SS" (which is silicone).






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[Britboater]

In my opinion and experience with my boat, Yamaha use inferior quality consumables when assembling.
How many of us have had to re-stick our sound deadening with 3M spray adhesive? I recently had to change a shift cable and was amazed at the poor quality silicone used around the cables entrance into the hull, it hadn’t even stuck to the hull, I think the thought was, apply excessive amounts and that will work!
Subsequently I have now found another area of leakage and again, finished what the assembly line didn’t .