Trailer help

[Street glide]

Hey guys need some help the brakes on my trailer don't work and havnt in years according to the previous owner . I was wondering if there was a way the keep the hitch part from sliding back and forth . I don't plan on fixing the brakes

Thanks for the help

 

[Dave burke]

Maybe a stupid question but why would you not want to fix the brakes? A 21 ft boat weighs over 4000 lbs and without the brakes, you lose a lot of stopping ability.

 

[Ronnie]

Although I too question why you would want to permanently disable the surge brake mechanism instead of repair and activate it, you can disable the slide action by taping a nickel in either or both oval slots on the sides of the tongue.

P.S. I hope I’m never on the same road as you when you are towing that trailer with a boat on it.

 

[drewkaree]

Mebbe take a look at your insurance policy for the boat. Seems like something an insurance company might deny a claim for, or you might be on the hook for an even higher settlement due to lack of maintenance.

As to your question, post pics of the part(S) you're looking to keep from sliding back and forth

 

[HangOutdoors]

@Street glide If you disable it and get into an accident, your insurance would be one of the concerns, but you could possibly be found intentionally negligent and in a possible criminal case if you injur or kill someone. Being responsible is part of being a boat owner, not just for you but others as well.

 

[Elliott]

Although it seems like a very bad idea, you would need more facts to determine if it is irresponsible and/or negligent to disable the brakes on the trailer. For example, the OP could only be using the trailer to launch the boat on his own or other private property (he might not plan to tow on any road). You would also need to know the OP's tow vehicle rating; his tow vehicle might be rated to tow this amount of weight without having trailer brakes. Similarly, the OP (depending on local laws and tow vehicle rating) could legally tow on public roads up to 30 or so MPH; think of the guy that lives down the street from the boat ramp.

Overall though, I cannot imagine a reason not to have the trailer repaired to allow for its full use with the highest level of safety.

 

[Julian]

Although it seems like a very bad idea, you would need more facts to determine if it is irresponsible and/or negligent to disable the brakes on the trailer. For example, the OP could only be using the trailer to launch the boat on his own or other private property (he might not plan to tow on any road). You would also need to know the OP's tow vehicle rating; his tow vehicle might be rated to tow this amount of weight without having trailer brakes. Similarly, the OP (depending on local laws and tow vehicle rating) could legally tow on public roads up to 30 or so MPH; think of the guy that lives down the street from the boat ramp.

Overall though, I cannot imagine a reason not to have the trailer repaired to allow for its full use with the highest level of safety.

Most states (not sure if it is all) require brakes on all trailers >3000lbs and the size of the tow vehicle is irrelevant. Here is Louisiana's law (seems like where the OP lives):

Every trailer or semi-trailer of a gross weight of 3,000 pounds or more, when operated upon a highway of this state, shall be equipped with brakes adequate to control the movement of and to stop and hold such vehicle and so designed as to be applied by the driver of the towing motor vehicle from its cab, and said brakes shall be so designed and connected that in case of an accidental breakaway of the towed vehicle the brakes shall be automatically applied.​

​

But yes...if he's only driving it in a parking lot to the ramp....no need....but then whats the worry about the tongue moving?

 

[HangOutdoors]

@Elliot It has nothing to really do with tow rating, I was more or less specifically about state laws trailering and brakes. What the vehicle can tow is just an additional issue which could compound the issue. Never heard of a 30 mph exception. I believe it is all based on weight statewide, etc. To refresh I went looking and here was a synopsis I found, which of course would need to be validated with each state.

Towing Laws | Brake Buddy®

Also, here is another site which details more information and nuances.

Trailer Laws & Regulations By State - Trailers.com - Shop Cargo, Utility, Equipment, & Enclosed Trailers

 

[sunbyrned]

Also, take the 30 MPH out of the equation. I left my brakes disengaged once going down a steep driveway. The driveway was gravel and I was pushed right into the highway. Scary as hell.

 

[Elliott]

@Elliot It has nothing to really do with tow rating, I was more or less specifically about state laws trailering and brakes. What the vehicle can tow is just an additional issue which could compound the issue. Never heard of a 30 mph exception. I believe it is all based on weight statewide, etc. To refresh I went looking and here was a synopsis I found, which of course would need to be validated with each state.

Towing Laws | Brake Buddy®

Also, here is another site which details more information and nuances.

Trailer Laws & Regulations By State - Trailers.com - Shop Cargo, Utility, Equipment, & Enclosed Trailers

In terms of negligence, it has to do with both the vehicle rating and state laws. The state laws might allow up to 3K before you need brakes, but your vehicle manufacture may specify brakes required for anything beyond 1.5K (think of a small SUV.

As your chart shows, the weight thresholds vary from state to state, and it even notes that some requirements are speed related (see the special requirements section).

 

[captras]

Obviously, your choice, but If I were taking my kids, family, friends, and if I was going to be on the road at the same time others, with their family, wives and friends, I would bite the bullet and get it fixed!

 

[Jpace76]

Glad I live in Texas since it is 4500 lbs. I bought my boat and the trailer brakes had already been removed by the previous owner (I assume they rusted out in salt water in Florida.) I have never had a problem stopping it with my Tundra and I have had to do some fast stops at 70 mph on the highway. I think it depends a lot on what you are pulling it with.

 

[Ronnie]

In case my earlier description is not descriptive enough.

Solution A: One or two nickels and some tape

Solution B: $13 for each magnetic “D” key via Amazon.

 

[tdonoughue]

If your tongue is sliding back and forth freely, that indicates that there is either a) no brake fluid in the reservoir or b) air/bad fluid in the lines. Bleed the brakes. You may find that for the cost of a couple of bottles of brake fluid and 30 min of your time that you have brakes and a tongue that does not slosh back and forth any longer. Win/win.

Easiest with 2 people. Fill the reservoir just aft of the tongue. Pump the tongue a bunch and have one person hold it in. Other person open the bleed screw on the brake caliper at the end of the brake line (looks like a zerk fitting--unscrew it just a little bit) and close it (basically you want to close it before the person pushing the tongue bottoms out the tongue). Check the reservoir and refill as needed (don't let it run dry--that will introduce air into the line again). Repeat until you get only fluid coming out. Close the fitting as fluid is coming out and the person pushing the tongue should feel strong resistance.

Repeat on the other side.

Once that is done, one of two things will happen: a) your brakes will be all better or b) they will stop working shortly. If they stop working, you have a leak (either letting air in or fluid out). Or you may need a new cylinder (the seals can go bad and let fluid by--but if that is the case, when you push in the tongue you will feel it gradually pushing in, usually--not common). But 8/10 times bleeding it does the trick.

FYI, the rubber brake lines in our trailers leak air. All rubber does. So it is very normal to need to bleed your brakes annually on these trailers. Prior owner may not have known that. Many don't and figure there is something wrong, when really it just needs a little maintenance of bleeding the brakes.

 

[Canuckjetboater]

Hey guys need some help the brakes on my trailer don't work and havnt in years according to the previous owner . I was wondering if there was a way the keep the hitch part from sliding back and forth . I don't plan on fixing the brakes

Thanks for the help

@Street glide .... respectfully, three concerns: 1. That is a decent sized boat you have, I'd want brakes on it. 2. Some jurisdictions require brakes and if you get stopped with brakes that don't work you could be fined. If you get stopped and have disabled your brakes that could be a whole different matter. 3. If you have a trailer with inoperable brakes or worse yet disable your brakes your insurance might not cover you in an accident a fact that might make a brake job look real cheap! You can't boat from the grave!

 

[Ralph MIA]

Where are you located?

 

[sunbyrned]

If your tongue is sliding back and forth freely, that indicates that there is either a) no brake fluid in the reservoir or b) air/bad fluid in the lines. Bleed the brakes. You may find that for the cost of a couple of bottles of brake fluid and 30 min of your time that you have brakes and a tongue that does not slosh back and forth any longer. Win/win.

Easiest with 2 people. Fill the reservoir just aft of the tongue. Pump the tongue a bunch and have one person hold it in. Other person open the bleed screw on the brake caliper at the end of the brake line (looks like a zerk fitting--unscrew it just a little bit) and close it (basically you want to close it before the person pushing the tongue bottoms out the tongue). Check the reservoir and refill as needed (don't let it run dry--that will introduce air into the line again). Repeat until you get only fluid coming out. Close the fitting as fluid is coming out and the person pushing the tongue should feel strong resistance.

Repeat on the other side.

Once that is done, one of two things will happen: a) your brakes will be all better or b) they will stop working shortly. If they stop working, you have a leak (either letting air in or fluid out). Or you may need a new cylinder (the seals can go bad and let fluid by--but if that is the case, when you push in the tongue you will feel it gradually pushing in, usually--not common). But 8/10 times bleeding it does the trick.

FYI, the rubber brake lines in our trailers leak air. All rubber does. So it is very normal to need to bleed your brakes annually on these trailers. Prior owner may not have known that. Many don't and figure there is something wrong, when really it just needs a little maintenance of bleeding the brakes.

I've only done this once, but I seem to recall that one side had the main line connected to it and the other side was an off-shoot of that, so I had to bleed the secondary line first. Is that any relevance in this case or does it matter which side he does first?

 

[dan144k]

If you want to resolve the banging noise from the trailer, regardless if brakes work or don't work. Replace the shock absorber inside moving tongue.

 

[tdonoughue]

I've only done this once, but I seem to recall that one side had the main line connected to it and the other side was an off-shoot of that, so I had to bleed the secondary line first. Is that any relevance in this case or does it matter which side he does first?

I probably didn't explain it very well (was trying to be brief), but that is what I meant by starting at the end of the brake line. The brake fluid line runs from the master cylinder (at the tongue) to one brake caliper and then from there to the other caliper (what I call the end of the line). You start at the end of the line and work your way backward (so if you had 4 calipers, for example, you would start at the last and work your way forward). So you are wanting to start at the one with just 1 line going to it.

 

[sunbyrned]

I probably didn't explain it very well (was trying to be brief), but that is what I meant by starting at the end of the brake line. The brake fluid line runs from the master cylinder (at the tongue) to one brake caliper and then from there to the other caliper (what I call the end of the line). You start at the end of the line and work your way backward (so if you had 4 calipers, for example, you would start at the last and work your way forward). So you are wanting to start at the one with just 1 line going to it.

I got you! Thanks for clarifying. I just misinterpreted what you were saying.