Question regarding equalizers/crossovers are they needed?

[Setec_Fl]

update. Skip to my last post with the block diagram and equipment list.

I recently purchased a used Yamaha jet boat and the previous owner added a lot of stuff to the stereo system that I don’t think are needed.
There are 3 amps of various size. 1 for the subs. 1 for the deck speakers and tweeters in the tower and 1 for the 10” speakers in the tower.
there is also an electronic equalizer and a crossover. So 5 pieces of equipment all mounted to 1 board in the storage locker and the wiring is a nightmare. A ton of RCA plugs that aren’t sealed.
My issue is, there is a lot of noise in the speakers and occasional popping. I am trying to diagnose the issues, but I am thinking of taking everything out and starting over.
Are things like the equalizer and crossover really of any use on a boat? Any suggestions on how to better deal with the RCA plugs?
maybe, rather than 3 separate amps, I get 1 multi-channel amp that can drive all speakers?
I can post a picture of this rats nest if it helps.
oh, and the speaker wires are just ran haphazardly. Not even routed through the wire mounts. So I’m sure some of the noise is from that.

 

[Julian]

Post pictures for sure!!!

Equalizers are helpful for balancing the sound.
Crossovers are helpful when you have tweeters installed separately from woofers.....normally the crossover is built into the speaker. Are there separate tweeters anywhere. Otherwise the only other reason for a crossover is for subs, but most amps enable that on the amp itself.

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

I would use what you have but drop the EQ/Crossover... the amps should have those.

I would take out the amp rack and start identifying and tagging everything as you do so. Clean it all up and put it back in cleanly.

One amp will not drive all of that (properly anyways)

 

[Julian]

10” speakers in the tower.

WOW....want to see photos of those too!!!!

 

[Setec_Fl]

Here are some pics. There are the 4 stock deck speakers. A box with what I think is 2x 8” subs. And 2x the box in the photo with 2 large midrange and two tweeters.

 

[Setec_Fl]

I’m tempted to ditch those boxes and get some wet sound icon 8s

 

[ripler]

Get rid of that LED controller or move it an see if that helps with your noise. No offense, as far as everything else goes I'd trash it all and start over.

 

[Setec_Fl]

Get rid of that LED controller or move it an see if that helps with your noise. No offense, as far as everything else goes I'd trash it all and start over.

I don’t even have the LED controller powered on and there is noise.
I am tempted to start over. Trust me. But I also just bought new sea decking and reupholstered the seats, so I’d rather work with what I have for now if I can.

 

[Setec_Fl]

As I’m pulling out equipment, I’m finding out how much of a mess this really is.
1. He used speaker wire as power lines.
2. Jumbled all of the power lines and speaker lines behind a board.
3. Spliced multiple power lines together and didn’t even use a power connector. Just wrapped them together and then wrapped them in some odd fabric like tape. Most of these lines are so corroded and nasty that I’m not even sure how they still work.
And so much more.

Really funny thing is, he claimed this was all installed professionally ?‍

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

Yeah I’d junk the whole thing then determine if any equipment can be reused.

 

[Setec_Fl]

Okay. Here is what is in the boat. Any help at all with this is greatly appreciated!!

the part in parentheses is what I labeled it in the attached diagram.

1. First Eq - Timpano TPT-EQ7 (EQ-7)
2. Second EQ/crossover - Expert Electronics Px-2 (EQ)
3. Sub Amp - TARAMPS HD3000: 3000w RMS - 1 OHM (Sub Amp)
4. Mid AMP - TARAMPS DS800x4: 800x 2 OHM/4 OHM bridge (Mid range amp)
5. Large Amp - TARAMPS MD5000.1: 5000w 1 OHM

see attached drawing for how this is all hooked up.

oh and the head unit has RCA outputs for 3 amps. So maybe I just run 2 more RCA cables and eliminate the 2 EQs?

 

[Hilario Perez]

Hey Setec we’re are you located?

 

[Setec_Fl]

Hey Setec we’re are you located?

I’m in Melbourne

 

[212s]

I agree with the others, pull it all out and start fresh. Sounds like you're boating in saltwater so you'll want marine grade wiring which is tinned to prevent corrosion for both power and speaker wires. Taramps are for vehicles, not marine so they might not last, and they're not high quality amps, but they'll work if you want to keep them. Take them out and pull the covers off to see if there's any corrosion in there though, if not continue to use them. Dump the EQ's and crossovers as they're not needed, re-wire it properly and tune the system with the controls on the amps for low-pass to the subs, high-pass to the rest. You can use RCA Y-splitters if needed for connections from the head unit to the amps. Also check the batteries...with that many amps, you'll need at least one deep cycle just to drive the system depending on volume levels and length of time.

 

[Setec_Fl]

I agree with the others, pull it all out and start fresh. Sounds like you're boating in saltwater so you'll want marine grade wiring which is tinned to prevent corrosion for both power and speaker wires. Taramps are for vehicles, not marine so they might not last, and they're not high quality amps, but they'll work if you want to keep them. Take them out and pull the covers off to see if there's any corrosion in there though, if not continue to use them. Dump the EQ's and crossovers as they're not needed, re-wire it properly and tune the system with the controls on the amps for low-pass to the subs, high-pass to the rest. You can use RCA Y-splitters if needed for connections from the head unit to the amps. Also check the batteries...with that many amps, you'll need at least one deep cycle just to drive the system depending on volume levels and length of time.

Thank you.
I pulled the amps apart and they look fine.
I have 2 batteries just for the stereo.

Is there a decoder ring for the amp controls?

The sub amp has 4 dials.
level 0 to max
High pass 10 Hz to 80 Hz
Low Pass 80 Hz to Full
Bass boost 0 to 10 dB

the mid speaker amp has 2 channels. Each channel has
A level knob 0 to max
A switch that says HPF/Full/LPF

the large amp has
level 0 to max
High pass 10 Hz to 90 Hz
Low Pass 90 Hz to 10 KHz
Bass boost 0 to 10 dB
Frequency 35 to 55 Hz

 

[jocolo21]

W

I agree with the others, pull it all out and start fresh. Sounds like you're boating in saltwater so you'll want marine grade wiring which is tinned to prevent corrosion for both power and speaker wires. Taramps are for vehicles, not marine so they might not last, and they're not high quality amps, but they'll work if you want to keep them. Take them out and pull the covers off to see if there's any corrosion in there though, if not continue to use them. Dump the EQ's and crossovers as they're not needed, re-wire it properly and tune the system with the controls on the amps for low-pass to the subs, high-pass to the rest. You can use RCA Y-splitters if needed for connections from the head unit to the amps. Also check the batteries...with that many amps, you'll need at least one deep cycle just to drive the system depending on volume levels and length of time.

Wrong and big misconception about boating in salt water. I’ve using nothing but car amps in all my boats for the past 10 years never an issue , yes marine grade has a coating on the board but these are well sealed unit, the coating don’t make it waterproof either you will be ok with car amps and save $200 on each buying car vs marine. The eq is pretty handy, your noise is coming from cheap amps, nothing you can do about sealing rca but you can buy jl or es rca and they fit tighter

 

[jocolo21]

https://learn.sonicelectronix.com/how-to-adjust-amplifier-gains-using-a-digital-multi-meter/

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

W
Wrong and big misconception about boating in salt water. I’ve using nothing but car amps in all my boats for the past 10 years never an issue , yes marine grade has a coating on the board but these are well sealed unit, the coating don’t make it waterproof either you will be ok with car amps and save $200 on each buying car vs marine. The eq is pretty handy, your noise is coming from cheap amps, nothing you can do about sealing rca but you can buy jl or es rca and they fit tighter

I would disagree, my car amps stay dry and already show rust.

 

[Julian]

I would disagree, my car amps stay dry and already show rust.

Might be the difference between a fresh water boat and salt water. It is STUNNING to me how quickly a boat on salt water rusts - having had my boat on both. For example, the table mount on my swim platform was spotless until the end of the first Bimini trip - rust on it from one week! Same for the tools I brought along. They were in a sealed tool box in the battery compartment. I never used them, took them out when we got home and they were covered in rust!!!! Just from the "sea air" WOW!

@Setec_Fl - I did a quick look on those big amps....looked like they are both Mono amps (for subs). Post pics as you go. Clearly this "professional" installer was working for beers!!! LOL

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

Might be the difference between a fresh water boat and salt water. It is STUNNING to me how quickly a boat on salt water rusts - having had my boat on both. For example, the table mount on my swim platform was spotless until the end of the first Bimini trip - rust on it from one week! Same for the tools I brought along. They were in a sealed tool box in the battery compartment. I never used them, took them out when we got home and they were covered in rust!!!! Just from the "sea air" WOW!

@Setec_Fl - I did a quick look on those big amps....looked like they are both Mono amps (for subs). Post pics as you go. Clearly this "professional" installer was working for beers!!! LOL

Nothing is safe in salt and I run it 99.5% salt.