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2016 242X Stereo

Rod5

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@Rod5 Where is your sub hooked up on the amps? Seems too much for those amps.
Sub is on the sub chan of the 5000.5 amp which is way under utilized. The sub output at 4 ohms is only 200 watts, 2 ohms is 400 watts, and 1 ohm is 500 watts. The one factory sub is a 4 ohm sub. I added a second 4 ohm sub on the starboard side in parallel making the stock 4 ohm load a 2 ohm load and increasing or uncorking the amp sub output from 200 to 400 watts at only the cost of a sub. Here is the thread for more on this topic...

https://jetboaters.net/threads/242x-stereo-how-to-exploit-free-unused-watts.13256/
 
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ffas11

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Check the gain on the amps. Mine was doing the same until I fried both amps. Also had a bad front speaker that caused both to quit working. Come to find out Yamaha puts the amps in with Gain turned all the way up for some stupid reason. Ever since I took the amps out and tuned them I can run mine all day at 95% with no problems. Idk if you've already checked all this out or not but that was the cause of mine. You can also contact your local dealer and they'll email you thebworing diagram. Hope this helps.
 

jcyamaharider

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@ffas11 do you have the wiring diagram that you can post here? A lot of us want to know where the sound bar and the rear speakers tie together at.
 

ffas11

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@ffas11 do you have the wiring diagram that you can post here? A lot of us want to know where the sound bar and the rear speakers tie together at.
I've actually been looking for it again myself. I'm needing to adjust mine because I put new speakers in. I'm not 100% sure what I did with it. Will definitely get back with it. Sorry
 

Julian

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Here is a wiring diagram I just finalized and confirmed all the connections on. I used this to wire a 3rd amp to power the sound bar on the tower (also powers my new mid cabin/helm speakers). The red and yellow wires are accessible behind the port cabin speaker. There is a connection there that you can disconnect and pull the wiring harness out of the speaker hole that makes it easier to cut and connect the wires. I only realized that you could simply connect the two ends of the Series and + wire after diagraming it - so my port speaker is connected differently than my starboard (which I did just connect the two wires on). In short, just
  1. cut each of the 4 wires
  2. Connect the LRS+ and LRS Series wires together (this will re-enable power to you left cabin speaker)
  3. Connect the right RRS+ and RRS Series wires together (this will re-enable power to your right cabin speaker)
  4. Then connect the wires going up to the tower to new wires to your Left and right channels on your amp.

242X Tower Wiring MODIFIED 2.png
 
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Julian

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Rod5

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This is great Julian! Curious what new amp and specs are you powering the soundbar with now? Again thanks you just me a bunch of discovery time!
 

Julian

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This is great Julian! Curious what new amp and specs are you powering the soundbar with now? Again thanks you just me a bunch of discovery time!
Glad to be of help! If the diagram saves anyone any time....its a winner! Hopefully it is clear....I was in a rush yesterday when I uploaded it.

I connected a Wetsounds HT-4 that runs my new mid cabin speakers and also the soundbar. All my mods are documented and linked in this thread - which is also linked in my signature.
 

Rod5

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Julian

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Cool man!
I added some steps directions to the post with the wiring diagram to make it clearer.

Yesterday afternoon, I cranked this up in the driveway for a while and the stock polks that used to go into protection no longer do. So I think wiring the speakers in series was causing one of the polks to over heat and because they are in line, it shuts off the other amps too.
 

Cambo

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For the audiophiles I was looking at the specs on the amps and the the sub woofer output shows that its 1 ohm stable . I can remember back 30 years ago that they would have stereo competitions for sound . Yes its easy to throw in multiple amps and speakers and create a lot of noise but the true art was getting a low power unit to max out on its capability the 50w to 100w class. The Polk amplifiers look like they have this ability

I have a dual voice coil Alpine R10 2 ohm sub woofer that I will put in parallel with the polk it should yield a 1.5 ohm load and draw the true power from this amp. I will check the impedance on the other channels but will most likely be able to add more speakers and drop them to a 2 ohm load.

its only yielding 200watts

Friday, August 31, 2018 (2).jpg Friday, August 31, 2018.jpg
 

jcyamaharider

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You will be adding a ton of stress on the amplifier and you will still not be getting the wattage you are wanting because most times these systems are running at 12.7 volts not 14.2 which is what the power rating is for.

What is the RMS on the Alpine?
 

Cambo

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over 20 stereo systems never blew an amp or speaker. Over driving speakers is what causes problems I will let you know how it sounds

500w RMS
 

Julian

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Cambo

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Hooked the other sub in parallel it works great the stock sub looked like it was being driven to hard now it is not. I tuned the system using a mirror and pulling the fuses out of the way. The sound is improved by 40% I disconnected the speaker harness adjusted one amp then did the same on the other then some minor tweaks and its dialed in . I still need to look into the sound bar if its in series i don't think so I unplugged it and the cabin speakers still played.

Eventually I will add another amp and the wet sounds eq with micrphone

I did have a speaker cut out on the swim deck with the HPF setting on

Below are my settings

PA5000.5

Monday, August 27, 2018.jpg Copy of Monday, August 27, 2018 (5).jpg
 

Cambo

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I have confirmed my cabin speakers and sound bar are in series

I'm usually very good with wiring and I'm trying to figure out if its possible to simply change the connection from series to parallel there are 6 wires in the harness for the series connection between the cabin speakers and sound bar . I thought there would only be four one positive going up and one negative coming down for each left and right channel. You would think the tower speakers and sound bar would be tied together in parallel to project sound out the back.


Here is a wiring diagram I just finalized and confirmed all the connections on. I used this to wire a 3rd amp to power the sound bar on the tower (also powers my new mid cabin/helm speakers). The red and yellow wires are accessible behind the port cabin speaker. There is a connection there that you can disconnect and pull the wiring harness out of the speaker hole that makes it easier to cut and connect the wires. I only realized that you could simply connect the two ends of the Series and + wire after diagraming it - so my port speaker is connected differently than my starboard (which I did just connect the two wires on). In short, just
  1. cut each of the 4 wires
  2. Connect the LRS+ and LRS Series wires together (this will re-enable power to you left cabin speaker)
  3. Connect the right RRS+ and RRS Series wires together (this will re-enable power to your right cabin speaker)
  4. Then connect the wires going up to the tower to new wires to your Left and right channels on your amp.

View attachment 66140
 

FloJet

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Yes you can just re wire it in parallel. I believe the tower speakers, and back transom speakers are in series now.
 

Julian

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I have confirmed my cabin speakers and sound bar are in series

I'm usually very good with wiring and I'm trying to figure out if its possible to simply change the connection from series to parallel there are 6 wires in the harness for the series connection between the cabin speakers and sound bar . I thought there would only be four one positive going up and one negative coming down for each left and right channel. You would think the tower speakers and sound bar would be tied together in parallel to project sound out the back.
Are you sure there are 6? What are they labeled? Not sure how you'd wire 4 speakers with 6 wires?
 

Cambo

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The solar panel must be in this plug I looked at the lettering a black and red wire were listed as SLR PNL + and - . So down to the four wires but still confusing of how to convert it to parallel on the one channel .
 

Julian

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The solar panel must be in this plug I looked at the lettering a black and red wire were listed as SLR PNL + and - . So down to the four wires but still confusing of how to convert it to parallel on the one channel .
I'm not sure I would bother converting it to parallel on one channel. I thought you were adding an amp so you could put it on its own channel?
 
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