2017-2019 AR 210 oil change (TR-1 engine)

[drewkaree]

• I extracted from the oil extraction hose (pink in picture at top) first.... 2 quarts came out
• I then extracted from the right most oil fill hole (red).... 1 quart extracted

That's super helpful info right there. To me, it demonstrates that the manual IS correct, that you should extract from both points, in order to get as much of the old oil as possible. The middle hole seemed like it wouldn't be too fruitful, but that's good to know your experience with it. I dunno what the oil passages are like, or how they're set up, so as to require extraction from both, but it DOES explain why the manual states to split the filler oil between the two openings. Good stuff!

How was your experience with the oil change? I know there are other engines that seem to require the absorbing pads and other measures, but I was kinda surprised that it seemed to be such a clean process on the TR-1. Given how well the extractor worked, I'm wondering if I even need to warm the engine up, but I know that might not be the case for every person's method of extraction.

 

[4x15mph]

Oil change experience was easy and completely clean. Not a drop anywhere. The Yamaha oil change kit also came with a collapsible cardboard oil funnel for refilling and you just toss it when you are done. I would warm up the engines to get a quicker extraction and to be sure to get the most out.

the only other oil change that was easier was on my 2 stroke LS2000. No oil changes and you just kept the oil tank full

 

[BeauSko]

This is absolutely fantastic! I'm about to perform my 10 hr service on my 2020 AR210 so this is priceless! Thanks so much! Thanks to everyone else for your tips and tricks as well!

 

[BeauSko]

Did my 10 hr oil change. Pulled 3 quarts out of the port engine and just 1.5 out of the starboard. Made sure i was bottomed out at both extraction points, and made multiple attempts. Put 1.5 quarts in each of the fill ports and got the level right.

Question though, let’s just say i needed to top of the oil...do i add it to the dip stick port or the other oil filler cap (green circle) or split between the two. I can’t imagine there r two different reservoirs the motors pull oil from. In other words, if i dropped 3 quarts of oil into just the dipstick port, the motor would circulate that oil as needed, correct?

 

[Dixie Highway]

It all goes to the same place eventually.

 

[Seaquest7]

Hello all. Great site! Informative and some fun reading. Many thanks to its creator and contributors.
I just bought a 2021 Yamaha VX Cruiser with a TR1 engine and finished my 10hr oil change with the help of the great post by @drewkaree.
My oil filter was on very very tight so I had to go through some extra measures to remove it. After trying a strap style wrench with no success I resorted to a large channel locks. This didn't work either but since the jaws ripped into the side of the filter and some oil was leaking out I went ahead and punched a 1/4 hole in the top to help drain the oil from the center of the filter (that was my thought anyway.) I ended up having to buy one of those jawed type oil filter removal tools to finally get it off. All went well there after and I completed it. I tell you all the details because in the tray that I dumped my old mangled oil filter in I found a strange piece that I didn't see during the oil change. My only guess it that it was part of the oil filter and I broke it loose during the removal (anyway, I'm hoping that's where it came from.) Has anyone ever seen this part before or where it came from? The base is just a touch smaller than a dime. After looking at the internal structure of the oil filter it looks like there is a overpressure bypass valve of sorts at the top of the filter that is held in place by a spring. This part could be part of it that maybe I broke free when I punched a hole in it? It's just a guess and I really don't know. I'm hoping someone else does.

 

[drewkaree]

I have seen other posts with something like that. I think you are correct in that it's a valve of some sort that is inside the filter.

Was it an OEM Yamaha filter, or an aftermarket filter from another manufacturer?

 

[Seaquest7]

It was the OEM filter, factory installed.
I ran the engine on the trailer for about 5 minutes with no problems after the oil change. Then launched it and ran it at 35mph or so for about 20 mins and didn’t have any problems. After it cooled off I checked again and no leaks. I’m more confident now that it was from the filter (or maybe one of those notorious extra meaninglessness parts the manufacturers always seem to include in their designs just to confuse the mortal man.)
Thanks for the quick feedback.

 

[drewkaree]

I also have purchased a right angle funnel. The dipstick hole is far enough back that this will make it easier to fill without hitting the engine hatch or blower hose. It CAN be done without a right angle funnel if your funnel fits and you're good at hitting the hole (that's what she said!), but it will be easier with a right angle funnel. The one I bought looks like this:


View attachment 100778


Last thing I'd recommend to make this process easier is a secondary container to use when filling the engines with oil. I've also purchased this, and will be using it next time. Longer spout to reach easily, and it has quantities marked on the side - my plan is to put one gallon in this container, and then I can use the markings to split the quantities, which you'll read about in a bit. All in all, with the right angle funnel and this container, I should have an easier time when filling. None of these things are required, they will simply make the job easier/cleaner, IMO.


View attachment 100782

Forgot to post about this. @WiskyDan and I did his boat, and that secondary container (the pitcher-looking thing with the yellow ring) is the hot ticket! The spout is quite flexible, and I thought it was SUPER easy to fill the engine with just that. I couldn't find the angled funnel, but I didn't think it was needed. His oil change was the maiden deployment of the pitcher, and I foresee it going just as nicely when I do mine. If I ever find that angled funnel, I'm not certain it'll even be needed, but I'm sure I'll find a use for it somewhere else.

Two thumbs up, recommend usage, and it's marked on the side if you want to use it to measure what you pulled out. A sharpie over the engraved markings will make them easier to read, if you've got old eyes like me.

One thing I noticed was that the time guesstimation of this task will be far higher for your first time, than when you're familiar with the process. I would say to set aside an hour to an hour-and-a-half for your first time. It's likely that you won't take that long, but if you're putzing around and talking with a friend, like we were doing, plan on longer. I think if we had 2 extractors and a set of tools for both of us, and didn't run into any problems, and I didn't talk as much or kept my mouth shut, we could now pound HIS boat out in half an hour or less. I think this was a 3 or 4 beer job, in Wisconsin measurements.

 

[WiskyDan]

I can confirm that the secondary container that @drewkaree picked up worked swimmingly.

 

[drewkaree]

Did my oil change today, before I have to put it in storage. I learned that it's far easier to first extract from the hose (orange area in previous pics), and the dipstick hole second. I can now verify that both extraction points are necessary, as well. Not sure if there's a baffle, creating two separate areas at the bottom of the engine, but today, I alternated for the 2nd motor, with the same experience - about a quart is left, no matter which extraction point is first.

I am trying a Wix filter, shown below. Everything important matches up to the Yamaha filter (thread pitch, diameter, identical appearance of the interior), and the Wix is taller, so more capacity, seems like there would be more filter area, and even though it's taller, it still fits without hitting anything. It's been a while since I investigated other filter options, but IIRC, the flow rate of the Wix was identical to the Yamaha, so I'm trying it out.

There is nothing stating any cross-reference of the Yamaha filter. I found this filter by seeing what uses the Yamaha filter, and tracking down any alternatives for that vehicle. I think it was a motorcycle engine that could use either filter.

 

[Berberman]

Excellent write up and super useful to me ahead of my approaching 10hr oil change on our 2022 AR210. I’ll be ordering supplies (replacement oil, extractor and funnel) in the next few days. What’s everyone using/recommending for an oil extraction pump, preferably plastic, transparent, with a scale, and manual?

 

[BeauSko]

Excellent write up and super useful to me ahead of my approaching 10hr oil change on our 2022 AR210. I’ll be ordering supplies (replacement oil, extractor and funnel) in the next few days. What’s everyone using/recommending for an oil extraction pump, preferably plastic, transparent, with a scale, and manual?

I use this oil pump, works like a champ!

Manual Oil Changer, 6.9 Quart | West Marine

Check out our Manual Oil Changer, 6.9 Quart and more from West Marine!

www.westmarine.com

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Hello all. Great site! Informative and some fun reading. Many thanks to its creator and contributors.
I just bought a 2021 Yamaha VX Cruiser with a TR1 engine and finished my 10hr oil change with the help of the great post by @drewkaree.
My oil filter was on very very tight so I had to go through some extra measures to remove it. After trying a strap style wrench with no success I resorted to a large channel locks. This didn't work either but since the jaws ripped into the side of the filter and some oil was leaking out I went ahead and punched a 1/4 hole in the top to help drain the oil from the center of the filter (that was my thought anyway.) I ended up having to buy one of those jawed type oil filter removal tools to finally get it off. All went well there after and I completed it. I tell you all the details because in the tray that I dumped my old mangled oil filter in I found a strange piece that I didn't see during the oil change. My only guess it that it was part of the oil filter and I broke it loose during the removal (anyway, I'm hoping that's where it came from.) Has anyone ever seen this part before or where it came from? The base is just a touch smaller than a dime. After looking at the internal structure of the oil filter it looks like there is a overpressure bypass valve of sorts at the top of the filter that is held in place by a spring. This part could be part of it that maybe I broke free when I punched a hole in it? It's just a guess and I really don't know. I'm hoping someone else does.

View attachment 151771

Pretty sure that’s part of the bypass valve in the filter. The bypass will lift if the filter becomes clogged or if it is so cold that the oil won’t flow properly until it gets warm enough. This is so the engine will not be starved of oil.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Wanted to add something about these Yamaha oil filter bypass valves…there was a post a few months back about a member who had one of these bypass valves come out of another Yamaha oil filter.

Further if you go on u tube there are numerous oil filter tests / cut them open type of thing and the bypass valves are something that is looked at. Some have a stamped spring steel plate and others use a coil spring, the spring being the desirable type as they will not deform if activated.

Also worth mentioning is the anti back flow valves that keep the oil in the filter after shutdown, so upon next start up the oil pump doesn’t have to fill the oil filter before delivering oil to the engine. Since the TR-1 filters are inverted this could be pretty important.

 

[Berberman]

I finally got to do the 10 hour oil change on my AR210. Here are some things I’ve learned during this process:

- The instructions on this thread are amazingly helpful (thank you!). I also watched this useful video:

- Go very slow, to avoid any oil spills. have plenty of paper towels handy.
- oil extraction went smooth. Make sure to wiggle the tube around the different oil compartments to get all of it out.
- i bought and used a manual pump. If i had to do it again I would have bought the 20 dollar electric pump from amazon. Also it was 93 degrees today. You probably don’t want to be pumping anything in that heat. (Almost anything).
- Filter removal, not so straight forward for me. I didn’t have the correctly sized tools and ended up making 2 trips to Autozone. i learned that a mm makes all the difference when it comes to cap filter wrenches. The correct size for the OEM Yamaha filter is 65mm. I had a 66mm. Live and learn. This part should have been the easiest, but took the longest for me. make sure you have all the right tools before you start.
- when you remove the oil filter, the oil inside it makes its way to the oil compartment. So you’ll have to extract it. Next time, I think I’ll remove the oil filter first, extract, then close things back up and install the new filter. Any counter indications?
- Though I put back approximately the same volume of oil I took out, my levels were still low and I had to adjust for it, on a warm engine.

Overall, fairly easy but very tedious. Next time, I’ll learn from my mistakes above and it should be a breeze.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I finally got to do the 10 hour oil change on my AR210. Here are some things I’ve learned during this process:

- The instructions on this thread are amazingly helpful (thank you!). I also watched this useful video:

- Go very slow, to avoid any oil spills. have plenty of paper towels handy.
- oil extraction went smooth. Make sure to wiggle the tube around the different oil compartments to get all of it out.
- i bought and used a manual pump. If i had to do it again I would have bought the 20 dollar electric pump from amazon. Also it was 93 degrees today. You probably don’t want to be pumping anything in that heat. (Almost anything).
- Filter removal, not so straight forward for me. I didn’t have the correctly sized tools and ended up making 2 trips to Autozone. i learned that a mm makes all the difference when it comes to cap filter wrenches. The correct size for the OEM Yamaha filter is 65mm. I had a 66mm. Live and learn. This part should have been the easiest, but took the longest for me. make sure you have all the right tools before you start.
- when you remove the oil filter, the oil inside it makes its way to the oil compartment. So you’ll have to extract it. Next time, I think I’ll remove the oil filter first, extract, then close things back up and install the new filter. Any counter indications?
- Though I put back approximately the same volume of oil I took out, my levels were still low and I had to adjust for it, on a warm engine.

Overall, fairly easy but very tedious. Next time, I’ll learn from my mistakes above and it should be a breeze.

I did not have the correct 65 mm wrench for the oil filters, the one I had ordered was too big, probably a 66mm like you had, I had a strap wrench and tried using that, but the oem oil filters were on there very very tight and I ended up having to use channel locks to get them loose. Since then I sourced the correct wrench and that’s this process a lot easier.

I also punch a couple of holes in the oil filters (a tip from the service manual) as the first step in the oil change process to allow the oil in the filters to drain into the sump.

Also, if you get a piece of 3/8” or 1/2” plywood and cut it to fit across the engine bay to lay on it makes removing and replacing the oil filters a lot easier.

Not sure what manual extractor you bought, I have a mighty vac, vacuum style extractor, very easy to use even when its hot out.

Thanks for your post!

 

[drewkaree]

- Filter removal, not so straight forward for me. I didn’t have the correctly sized tools and ended up making 2 trips to Autozone. i learned that a mm makes all the difference when it comes to cap filter wrenches. The correct size for the OEM Yamaha filter is 65mm. I had a 66mm. Live and learn. This part should have been the easiest, but took the longest for me. make sure you have all the right tools before you start.
- when you remove the oil filter, the oil inside it makes its way to the oil compartment. So you’ll have to extract it. Next time, I think I’ll remove the oil filter first, extract, then close things back up and install the new filter. Any counter indications?
- Though I put back approximately the same volume of oil I took out, my levels were still low and I had to adjust for it, on a warm engine.

Since first doing this and documenting it, I have purchased the Tekton oil filter pliers I showed a picture of above. I used to use the cap style filter remover, and it was a PITA when having to buy a new one due to the issue you had - wrong size. I had at least 3 different sizes for the various Honda's I had at the time, because I hated strap wrenches. The pliers will change your life by giving you far less hassle (stuck on the filter, grabbed the wrong size, can't find your ratchet, etc).

Channel Lock now has a 2-pack that wasn't available the many years ago when I made the switch, but here's what I have, and recommend.

My original Channel Lock version: https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-209-Filters-Conduit-Fittings/dp/B0009WG5SU/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?crid=1XY9QTKQFNJJJ&keywords=tekton+oil+filter+pliers&qid=1656817503&sprefix=Tekton+oi,aps,189&sr=8-7

The Tekton I bought that I leave at the lake house for the boat: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5866-12-Inch-Filter-Pliers/dp/B000NPR33O/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=1XY9QTKQFNJJJ&keywords=tekton+oil+filter+pliers&qid=1656817503&sprefix=Tekton+oi,aps,189&sr=8-2

I would recommend the 2-pack Channel Lock set, it has a 9" for tight areas, and a 12" if you need some muscle. Those two links above are my actual tools, and the 9" should suffice, but the 2-pack gives you flexibility. Here it is: https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-2Pc-Filter-Wrench-2/dp/B00JF5ESRW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1XY9QTKQFNJJJ&keywords=tekton+oil+filter+pliers&qid=1656817503&sprefix=Tekton+oi,aps,189&sr=8-3

As for removing the filter first, you'll never get 100% out, so I don't see the small amount from the filter as vital to remove, but I can understand the desire to get as much as possible. If you want to do it, I don't see any flaws in your reasoning. I had a negligible amount of oil in my filter each time I've done it, so I just leave it til the end, but if I had the experience that you described, I might consider doing it that way too.

Last item was putting back the same amount you removed. I have seen the comments around, about doing it that way. I just want to make things easier for myself, and I would never trust that I wasn't overfilling it, so I simply underfill and top it off afterwards.

Far less math or remembering amounts, and you should be checking your oil levels the next few times you're out in the boat anyway, to verify no leaks or high levels, so I err on the low side and bring it up to spec. I prefer that method vs possible overfilling, and having to bring out the pump to remove the excess, as well as possible air filter contamination from the extra oil.

Keep relaying your experiences and tips for the next person, and we can all learn from each other. Take what works best for you, and leave the rest for those who find it better in some other ways

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Did my oil change today, before I have to put it in storage. I learned that it's far easier to first extract from the hose (orange area in previous pics), and the dipstick hole second. I can now verify that both extraction points are necessary, as well. Not sure if there's a baffle, creating two separate areas at the bottom of the engine, but today, I alternated for the 2nd motor, with the same experience - about a quart is left, no matter which extraction point is first.

I am trying a Wix filter, shown below. Everything important matches up to the Yamaha filter (thread pitch, diameter, identical appearance of the interior), and the Wix is taller, so more capacity, seems like there would be more filter area, and even though it's taller, it still fits without hitting anything. It's been a while since I investigated other filter options, but IIRC, the flow rate of the Wix was identical to the Yamaha, so I'm trying it out.

There is nothing stating any cross-reference of the Yamaha filter. I found this filter by seeing what uses the Yamaha filter, and tracking down any alternatives for that vehicle. I think it was a motorcycle engine that could use either filter.



View attachment 165441

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Did you notice how much more oil you had to add to bring it up to the level you normally run on the dipstick?

Today I changed my oil and am now running Amsoil filters in place of the stockers. I made an extra effort to extract all the oil I could, which was about 7.5 L per the graduated cylinder on my mighty vac extractor. I was careful putting oil back in, and the total was 3.75-3.8L per engine, which put the oil level at roughly 2/3 full on the dipstick. The manual states 3.4 with a filter change, so the amsoil filters hold an extra .35-.4L with the Amsoil filters and then some, they do not seem that much taller but are definitely a bit larger in diameter.

 

[drewkaree]

Did you notice how much more oil you had to add to bring it up to the level you normally run on the dipstick?

Today I changed my oil and am now running Amsoil filters in place of the stockers. I made an extra effort to extract all the oil I could, which was about 7.5 L per the graduated cylinder on my mighty vac extractor. I was careful putting oil back in, and the total was 3.75-3.8L per engine, which put the oil level at roughly 2/3 full on the dipstick. The manual states 3.4 with a filter change, so the amsoil filters hold an extra .35-.4L with the Amsoil filters and then some, they do not seem that much taller but are definitely a bit larger in diameter.

I don't recall offhand. I know it was more, but like you mentioned, not much. If I had to guess and put a figure to it, it was maybe half a quart combined, for both engines. It's been long enough that I don't trust my figures though. 2/3 is where I prefer the level as well. I've definitely experienced an overfilled motor, and it was noticeable enough that it caused me to check, so I try to fill it to the lowest mark on the dipstick, and then take a few quarts out with me for 2-3 trips, and check it until I'm confident it's at 2/3.