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2017 242X Solar panels not working

jcyamaharider

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I mean with reverse wiring. Do you think so J&*^ A&* just said one day " Watch this ".
 

Julian

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Julian if you have a voltage drain I would HIGHLY recommend looking here.

https://www.amazon.com/ECO-ENERGY-Ganz-Eco-Energy-Semi-Flexible-Solar/dp/B00FWS4KKG
Why would I need a 3rd solar panel?

It doesn't suprise me that this is only now getting uncovered....I've not trusted that the panels would charge my boat in the slip, so I've had a dual bank charger on my boat since I bought it. I've never noticed an appreciable charge from the panel....and as I said earlier...have wondered if they were actually draining the batteries! I'll look at my wiring this weekend if I can!
 

jcyamaharider

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Why would I need a 3rd solar panel?

It doesn't suprise me that this is only now getting uncovered....I've not trusted that the panels would charge my boat in the slip, so I've had a dual bank charger on my boat since I bought it. I've never noticed an appreciable charge from the panel....and as I said earlier...have wondered if they were actually draining the batteries! I'll look at my wiring this weekend if I can!
I mean the wiring issue.......:p
 

Mainah

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Rated Open circuit voltage of 19.3v would be max ouput when reading with a dmm and no load which explains the 17v reading. 15.3 may certainly be all you are getting. Polarity is important and I persoanlly would not want more than 14.4 volts going into my 12v nomimal system. My previous disclosure still apllies.
 

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I have done a bunch of solar panel work. Using the panel direct to a battery can be done but is not ideal. It looks like Yamaha gets away with it by having large batteries and tiny panel, that way the panel voltage doesn't overpower the electrical system a and raise the system voltage in the boat over what the battery is putting out. Not what I would do. It is not a great way to charge a battery as the voltage needs to fluctuate at different states of the charging cycle. Solar panels add voltage when put in series and add current when put in parallel. From the pics it looks like they are wired in parallel. What is the OC current output. With panels you can simply put your meter in series and set it to amps (as long as the meter will go to 10A). For example, while WAY bigger, my RV panels put out 35V and 9A in full sun. Can the yamaha panels get the batteries to 14.4 V? Typically most OEM solar systems are underdesigned. Cam.
 

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I have my boat in a enclosed marina and have not charged, other that running the boat and the solar panels, all season and have not had a problem. I usually anchor and run the audio system for three to five hours. I have a short run from the island to the marina, maybe 3 miles.
 

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I have done a bunch of solar panel work. Using the panel direct to a battery can be done but is not ideal. It looks like Yamaha gets away with it by having large batteries and tiny panel, that way the panel voltage doesn't overpower the electrical system a and raise the system voltage in the boat over what the battery is putting out. Not what I would do. It is not a great way to charge a battery as the voltage needs to fluctuate at different states of the charging cycle. Solar panels add voltage when put in series and add current when put in parallel. From the pics it looks like they are wired in parallel. What is the OC current output. With panels you can simply put your meter in series and set it to amps (as long as the meter will go to 10A). For example, while WAY bigger, my RV panels put out 35V and 9A in full sun. Can the yamaha panels get the batteries to 14.4 V? Typically most OEM solar systems are underdesigned. Cam.
When installing a controller do you want it closer to the batteries or the panels?
 

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So I swapped the positive and negative lead and hooked everything back up. When the starter battery wasn't hooked up the red light was blinking indicating it was charging the house battery and when I hooked up the starter battery it went off indicating it was charging the starter battery. All is right in the world again and I can get some sleep now.
So you left the wires at the batteries (G1 and SP1) connected to their factory connection points and and swapped the wires around in the box on top of the tower (between the panels) so that positive and negative leaving the box were reversed?
 

jcyamaharider

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So you left the wires at the batteries (G1 and SP1) connected to their factory connection points and and swapped the wires around in the box on top of the tower (between the panels) so that positive and negative leaving the box were reversed?
Yes, but you need to make sure that the sp1 and the G1 are wired in reverse before you do this.
 

jcyamaharider

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When installing a controller do you want it closer to the batteries or the panels?
I don't know if it matters or not but I am going to mount mine to the same wall that my switches are on so it will be closer to the batteries than the panels.
 

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Yes, but you need to make sure that the sp1 and the G1 are wired in reverse before you do this.
Was this photo from before or after you swapped the wires? If it was before, then clearly they'd swapped red and black...but I suspect this was after...

And what controller are you getting?
 

jcyamaharider

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This photo was after. I haven't dug too deep into the controller yet.
 

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Wires should be red to red etc for +. The controller normally is close to the battery but at this low current and voltage it really doesnt matter. Voltage drop is the enemy so larger gauge wire is called for. You want to be less than 1%. There are some great voltage drop calulator apps. A weatherproof location is best for the controller. Putting the panels in parallel is best since if one panel is shaded, then the other still works. Any shading completely kills the output of the panel. Cam.
 

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Was this photo from before or after you swapped the wires? If it was before, then clearly they'd swapped red and black...but I suspect this was after...

And what controller are you getting?
Based upon what I can see in that photo post swap the reverse polarity issue may be at the panel assembly line and not Yamaha's fault.
 

Don R

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I have a 2016 242 Limited S e-series boat, We've left it running with radio blasting for 4+ hours, the charge was at 12.3 to 12.5 all day, during the evening before we started up, we were down to 12.0 to 12.2, It seems to think mine are charging properly.


I will add I love the comfort of these solar panels, i use to worry about running the stereo without starting the engines but now I am much more confident
 

jcyamaharider

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I have a 2016 242 Limited S e-series boat, We've left it running with radio blasting for 4+ hours, the charge was at 12.3 to 12.5 all day, during the evening before we started up, we were down to 12.0 to 12.2, It seems to think mine are charging properly.


I will add I love the comfort of these solar panels, i use to worry about running the stereo without starting the engines but now I am much more confident
Now that mine are fixed I will fell the same way.

I checked my batteries last night and both were still sitting at 12.77. So I wonder if they actually do have a controller built in somewhere???
 

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My $o.2... The solar panels seem to do what they are designed to do (barring they are installed/connected correctly). They are to simply trickle charge your starting battery to ensure you can start your boat, once the starter battery is detected to be "full" it switches over to the house/auxiliary battery via the VSR. There have been many times I have tested this, albeit, unintentionally after a long day of boating. I've put the boat away (in the sun) for 3-5 days with very low batteries, come back to the boat days later and both batteries are charged to peak (with all battery switches off). The way the system was detailed and explained to me by my Yamaha rep, that's what I expected and what it does, so no complaints.

However, with a 600 watt stereo system that can pound for 6+ hours I did have to use the "emergency parallel" switch to start the engines and let them idle to get up to operating voltage. The solar panels work, as they are designed to, they just cannot keep up/recharge with the continuous draw of the stereo without supplemental power, ie engines running/stator etc.

Here's my question, with the blower and bilge in auto mode, to save power on the house battery, would it be wise to take them out of auto while moored? Also, are there any other stock accessories to consider turning off to extend the battery life while moored, or is that the nature of the beast with a stereo upgrade? Occasionally start the motors to ensure adequate charge? Third battery? Different Batteries?
 

Julian

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However, with a 600 watt stereo system that can pound for 6+ hours I did have to use the "emergency parallel" switch to start the engines and let them idle to get up to operating voltage.
This doesn't make any sense to me. If you crank the stereo it should only deplete the house battery, not the starting battery....
 

props2you

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@Julian My thoughts as well, which is why I'm researching this issue. House stays house and SHOULD be completely separate of the starter. Is there a wiring diagram for hooking up the batteries? I would like to double check the dealers connections.
 

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