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2022 255xd LiFePo4 battery upgrade (pics)

Trucon01

Well-Known Member
Messages
47
Reaction score
59
Points
57
Location
Pensacola, Florida
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2022
Boat Model
255XD
Boat Length
25
Hey all,

I've upgraded my lead acid Interstate batteries to Zooms / Redodo lithiums. Start battery is 100ah with a 100amp BMS and the house battery is a 300ah with 200amp BMS.

Start battery is in the original location and house battery is now under the helm. I used 1/0 anchor wire for the runs.

I have some clean up to do, but we're in business! Engines fire up perfectly.
 

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That's awesome!

And... the next time a tropical storm knocks out power lines in our 'hood, you can power your house from your boat while you wait for Florida Power & Light to restore power. No need for a Generac.

I've been keeping an eye out for a K̶a̶w̶a̶s̶a̶k̶i̶ Bright Green 255, but haven't seen yours yet. ?
 
$1450? Damn son, that's son heavy duty cost right there!
 
Hey all,

I've upgraded my lead acid Interstate batteries to Zooms / Redodo lithiums. Start battery is 100ah with a 100amp BMS and the house battery is a 300ah with 200amp BMS.

Start battery is in the original location and house battery is now under the helm. I used 1/0 anchor wire for the runs.

I have some clean up to do, but we're in business! Engines fire up perfectly.

Good job!

I’m going to assume you have a the OEM BEP marine battery switch with DVSR. Be advised, the DVSR is going to remain closed due to the higher resting voltage of those batteries. You will have to switch red wire on the back side of the DVSR with either a rocker switch or hook it to an ignition hot. Otherwise your Batteries are going to stay in parallel until almost dead.

I did a thread on converting my boats batteries to LiFePO batteries here.. https://jetboaters.net/threads/conversion-to-lifepo-batteries.35834/
 
I'm interested in changing the stock dual purpose flooded battery (Interstate 24M-XHD) to a lithium battery. The lithium battery manufacturers seem to recommend against using them as starter batteries, but the 100ah batteries are rated for 200a draw intermittently. That seems plenty for our small engine.

I found this one, which appears to be Group 24 size and would fit in the stock mount: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B313T3YT/

Any thoughts?
 
I'm interested in changing the stock dual purpose flooded battery (Interstate 24M-XHD) to a lithium battery. The lithium battery manufacturers seem to recommend against using them as starter batteries, but the 100ah batteries are rated for 200a draw intermittently. That seems plenty for our small engine.

I found this one, which appears to be Group 24 size and would fit in the stock mount: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B313T3YT/

Any thoughts?

Dakota Lithium just came out with a 135ah group 24 size dual purpose LiFePO battery…
 
Good job!

I’m going to assume you have a the OEM BEP marine battery switch with DVSR. Be advised, the DVSR is going to remain closed due to the higher resting voltage of those batteries. You will have to switch red wire on the back side of the DVSR with either a rocker switch or hook it to an ignition hot. Otherwise your Batteries are going to stay in parallel until almost dead.

I did a thread on converting my boats batteries to LiFePO batteries here.. https://jetboaters.net/threads/conversion-to-lifepo-batteries.35834/
Interesting, do you have any pics of your setup showing what you did for the Dsvr? Otherwise, can I just cut the wire and install a rocker switch in line?
 
That is a lot of money for batteries.

The pair of group 31 DieHard Platinum AGMs in my boat are still working perfectly during their 9th summer. They are running a refrigerator 24/7. They provide 100 Ah of usable capacity while you likely have around 240 Ah of usable capacity.

I have thoughts of switching to something like this when they fail. https://batteryhookup.com/products/3s2p-6000-cycles-lithium-ion-polymer-electrovaya-10-95v-80ah
A pair would provide 140 Ah of usable capacity for $300 at voltages that match lead acid batteries.
 
Good job!

I’m going to assume you have a the OEM BEP marine battery switch with DVSR. Be advised, the DVSR is going to remain closed due to the higher resting voltage of those batteries. You will have to switch red wire on the back side of the DVSR with either a rocker switch or hook it to an ignition hot. Otherwise your Batteries are going to stay in parallel until almost dead.

I did a thread on converting my boats batteries to LiFePO batteries here.. https://jetboaters.net/threads/conversion-to-lifepo-batteries.35834/


I'm going to upgrade my lead batteries to LiFePo and have the OEM DVSR. I have cut the red wire on the back and it is currently connected to the starter battery switched power, so it has 12v when I turn on the starter battery switch. This works perfectly with my lead batteries, but I'm concerned about what you mentioned...the resting voltage of the lithium batteries will trigger the DVSR to connect the batteries thinking they are being charged. I'm thinking connecting the red wire to an ignition hot source would keep the batteries separated until the chosen ignition is on as you said...easy enough to change. Am I understanding you correctly?

Do I need to make any changes to the charging system? I've read mixed messages on adding a DC to DC charger. Is this something you are knowledgeable about? I'd prefer to change both my house and start batteries to LiFePo, but at least want to upgrade the house batt.

I also have a Noco 5x two bank charger for topping the batteries off when on shore power.

Thanks.
 
I'm going to upgrade my lead batteries to LiFePo and have the OEM DVSR. I have cut the red wire on the back and it is currently connected to the starter battery switched power, so it has 12v when I turn on the starter battery switch. This works perfectly with my lead batteries, but I'm concerned about what you mentioned...the resting voltage of the lithium batteries will trigger the DVSR to connect the batteries thinking they are being charged. I'm thinking connecting the red wire to an ignition hot source would keep the batteries separated until the chosen ignition is on as you said...easy enough to change. Am I understanding you correctly?

Do I need to make any changes to the charging system? I've read mixed messages on adding a DC to DC charger. Is this something you are knowledgeable about? I'd prefer to change both my house and start batteries to LiFePo, but at least want to upgrade the house batt.

I also have a Noco 5x two bank charger for topping the batteries off when on shore power.

Thanks.

Yes you are understanding me correctly. Once you introduce a lithium battery into your system whether it’s the start or house battery, the DVSR power source ( red wire in the back) needs to be off while at rest / floating or the DVSR will close the switch paralleling your house and start batteries. The 100% charged resting voltage of my battle born batteries is 13.6 volts, the DVSR will close the switch if it sees 13.2 volts on either the start or house battery. Currently (see what I did there?) I have mine connected to a rocker switch on the dash, I wait until the start battery voltage is above the house battery voltage before I power up the DVSR, usually a few minutes after starting. This assures that the LiFePO battery does start trying to charge the AGM battery…and all charging current is going into the start and the house battery.

You do not need to make any changes to the oem charging system. We have PMG (permanent magnet generator) type of charging system, which means our charging systems are always at full output. The rectifier / regulator changes the 3 phase AC voltage from the generator to DC via diodes, then the regulator shunts excess DC voltage / current to ground to “regulate” charging voltage and current. This type of system is well suited to maximum charging / output since it’s always at full output.

An automotive style alternator on the other hand varies the “magnet” if you will to regulate the voltage / current coming out of the alternator, and the diodes convert the AC to DC voltage / current. The advantage to this type of alternator is much greater output as the magnetic field (flux density) can be greatly increased as opposed to a PMG type whos flux density is fixed. The disadvantage to this type of system is that it needs voltage to supply the field, as opposed to a PMG type that will always generate as it always has its field. The automotive type of alternator is not at full output all the time, most of these types of alternators will not with stand full output for an extended period of time and will fail. When I talked to Yamaha about the switch to lithium batteries the tech told me about their outboards having alternator failures with the early lithium batteries for this reason. Lithium batteries have very little internal resistance when compared to lead acid batteries, this is why they charge so much faster than lead acid batteries. This resistance is why you typically see an automotive alternator start backing off on its charging rate when its charging a lead acid battery even though there is a long ways to go to charge to full, with a lithium battery the charge rate will remain high until the battery is almost charged. The newer lithium batteries BMS and internal design has taken care of most of this by limiting charge current. This is why it’s so important to do your research on lithium batteries….thanks @mrcleanr6

You do not need a DC to DC charger, and according to MinnKota their DC to DC charger will not work with our boats as there is not enough charging current. I was looking at this as a way to put some charge into my trolling motor batteries. That’s a whole other story.

Dakota lithium recently came out with a group 24 size 135 Ah start / deep cycle battery which may lend a drop in solution for your desire to change out both your start and house batteries. I watched a very good side by side test of the battle born batteries, AGM and flooded lead acid batteries. In this test it was noted that lead acid batteries are very good at dumping large amounts of current over short periods of time and that makes them better for starting batteries. I ended up putting an Interstate AGM start battery with the Battle Born 100Ah house battery.

It looks like you may have read my linked thread on converting to LiFePO batteries…it was quite a journey. I will say based on my research the only LiFePO batteries I would recommend to anyone is either ReLion or Battle Born, with my best recommendation being Battle Born. I know I mentioned Dakota lithium above, some folks have used them with no dramas, but it was my experience that I could never talk to a tech or get timely responses to my questions, if the only person I can talk to is sales then I’m not going to deal with them, Dakota lithium also misrepresented themselves, they elude to being in Gran Rapids North Dakota, try and find them there.

Sorry I took a bit to answer your questions I just stumbled across your post this morning. Hope I answered your questions. Feel free to ask any others you may have.
 
Last edited:
Interesting, do you have any pics of your setup showing what you did for the Dsvr? Otherwise, can I just cut the wire and install a rocker switch in line?

I don’t think there are any pics in my thread of the DVSR and how I cut in the rocker switch… if you still need help with this shoot me a pm and I’ll help you out!
 
Yes you are understanding me correctly. Once you introduce a lithium battery into your system whether it’s the start or house battery, the DVSR power source ( red wire in the back) needs to be off while at rest / floating or the DVSR will close the switch paralleling your house and start batteries. The 100% charged resting voltage of my battle born batteries is 13.6 volts, the DVSR will close the switch if it sees 13.2 volts on either the start or house battery. Currently (see what I did there?) I have mine connected to a rocker switch on the dash, I wait until the start battery voltage is above the house battery voltage before I power up the DVSR, usually a few minutes after starting. This assures that the LiFePO battery does start trying to charge the AGM battery…and all charging current is going into the start and the house battery.

You do not need to make any changes to the oem charging system. We have PMG (permanent magnet generator) type of charging system, which means our charging systems are always at full output. The rectifier / regulator changes the 3 phase AC voltage from the generator to DC via diodes, then the regulator shunts excess DC voltage / current to ground to “regulate” charging voltage and current. This type of system is well suited to maximum charging / output since it’s always at full output.

An automotive style alternator on the other hand varies the “magnet” if you will to regulate the voltage / current coming out of the alternator, and the diodes convert the AC to DC voltage / current. The advantage to this type of alternator is much greater output as the magnetic field (flux density) can be greatly increased as opposed to a PMG type whos flux density is fixed. The disadvantage to this type of system is that it needs voltage to supply the field, as opposed to a PMG type that will always generate as it always has its field. The automotive type of alternator is not at full output all the time, most of these types of alternators will not with stand full output for an extended period of time and will fail. When I talked to Yamaha about the switch to lithium batteries the tech told me about their outboards having alternator failures with the early lithium batteries for this reason. Lithium batteries have very little internal resistance when compared to lead acid batteries, this is why they charge so much faster than lead acid batteries. This resistance is why you typically see an automotive alternator start backing off on its charging rate when its charging a lead acid battery even though there is a long ways to go to charge to full, with a lithium battery the charge rate will remain high until the battery is almost charged. The newer lithium batteries BMS and internal design has taken care of most of this by limiting charge current. This is why it’s so important to do your research on lithium batteries….thanks @mrcleanr6

You do not need a DC to DC charger, and according to MinnKota their DC to DC charger will not work with our boats as there is not enough charging current. I was looking at this as a way to put some charge into my trolling motor batteries. That’s a whole other story.

Dakota lithium recently came out with a group 24 size 135 Ah start / deep cycle battery which may lend a drop in solution for your desire to change out both your start and house batteries. I watched a very good side by side test of the battle born batteries, AGM and flooded lead acid batteries. In this test it was noted that lead acid batteries are very good at dumping large amounts of current over short periods of time and that makes them better for starting batteries. I ended up putting an Interstate AGM start battery with the Battle Born 100Ah house battery.

It looks like you may have read my linked thread on converting to LiFePO batteries…it was quite a journey. I will say based on my research the only LiFePO batteries I would recommend to anyone is either ReLion or Battle Born, with my best recommendation being Battle Born. I know I mentioned Dakota lithium above, some folks have used them with no dramas, but it was my experience that I could never talk to a tech or get timely responses to my questions, if the only person I can talk to is sales then I’m not going to deal with them, Dakota lithium also misrepresented themselves, they elude to being in Gran Rapids North Dakota, try and find them there.

Sorry I took a bit to answer your questions I just stumbled across your post this morning. Hope I answered your questions. Feel free to ask any others you may have.

Thanks for sharing the results of your research! Your discussion is exactly what I needed to know. Does the Battle Born lithium battery have a Bluetooth option to monitor its status?
 
Thanks for sharing the results of your research! Your discussion is exactly what I needed to know. Does the Battle Born lithium battery have a Bluetooth option to monitor its status?

No it does not have blutetooth capability but the Victron smart shunt does. I consider the smart shunt a must have piece of tech…it takes all the guessing out of your battery status.
 
Perfect...thanks again for the info.

Plus, and I may have said this already, there is an auxiliary port to monitor the voltage in a second battery, such as your start battery
 
Even better! It would be nice to take the guess work out of it.
 
Plus, and I may have said this already, there is an auxiliary port to monitor the voltage in a second battery, such as your start battery


Do you know if there is a problem with changing the house battery to LiFePo4 and leaving the start battery lead? I'm wondering if there would be an issue with charging mixed battery types while the engines are running?
 
I have experienced no problems while underway and charging the LiFePO4 house battery and the AGM start battery. I’ve had 23 boating days so far this year, with an average time on water of 12 hours.

It is important though that you separate the lead acid battery from the LiFePO4 battery when the engines are off. The higher resting voltage of the LiFePO battery will start trying to charge the lead acid battery and it’s lower resting voltage, that is caused by potential difference. I currently have my DVSR hooked up to a rocker switch on the dash, when I start the engines I let them run a bit and make sure the AGM start batteries voltage is higher than the house battery before I turn on the power to the DVSR. Once the DVSR parallels the two batteries you will see the start battery voltage decrease and the house battery voltage increase. The charging will continue until both batteries will read 14.1V on my connext screen.. but this will take a long while if the house battery has been discharged a lot. Check out the thread I did converting to LiFePO batteries, there is a lot of good info in that thread.

 
Hey all,

I've upgraded my lead acid Interstate batteries to Zooms / Redodo lithiums. Start battery is 100ah with a 100amp BMS and the house battery is a 300ah with 200amp BMS.

Start battery is in the original location and house battery is now under the helm. I used 1/0 anchor wire for the runs.

I have some clean up to do, but we're in business! Engines fire up perfectly.



How is the LiFePo4 start battery working? Any thoughts about changing the start battery to LiFePo4 since you have been using it for awhile? I've read it's acceptable to use LiFePo4 start batteries in motorcycles and jet skis, which is essentially what I am starting in my 2019 AR240. I use one in my ATV and it works fine.
 
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