How to replace Reverse Gate cable

[clint6760]

Ok thanks a lot.

 

[Zarrella]

No problem @Murf'n'surf I appreciate all your help!

 

[Big Shasta]

Plagiarism runs rampid here.

Actually I specifically took it for him when I did mine. I studied everything else he had to get mine done so it was the least I could do.

 

[mlardani]

Great helpfull post!!. Just finished changing reverse cable on my 05 AR230. Same issues, rusted binnacle screws (needed to cut the head out of one an drill to replace with new machined screw and nut). In addition my reverse gate ball joint (spring loaded) was extremely rusted and broke when removing, needed to replace $47. The rest went well and easy, removed the clean out plugs tray to fish and feed the cable. TKS!!

 

[Julian]

@mlardani Did you get the cables from Iboats or find somewhere cheaper? Were the part numbers still the same?

 

[clint6760]

Ok I was lazy over the winter and never got around to changing the cables. I have a 04 sx230 and want to make sure the part numbers for reverse cables and shifter cables. I figure it would be best to just change both. Thanks for the help.

 

[Julian]

Ok I was lazy over the winter and never got around to changing the cables. I have a 04 sx230 and want to make sure the part numbers for reverse cables and shifter cables. I figure it would be best to just change both. Thanks for the help.

The gate cables for an 04 will be the same as those for an 05. There are only gate/reverse cables and steering cables. Replace both if you wish....

 

[clint6760]

Ok thanks. So those would be the numbers that were posted at the beginning of this thread. I don't think I need to change the steering cables. My boat is real hard to shift out of neutral.

 

[Julian]

Those would be the part numbers

 

[Chris Roberson]

For the AR240 - 2010 - 2014 if your Yamaha PN is F2A-U149C-00-00 Then your Seastar - Teleflex part number CCX63318

Seastar Tfxtreme Universal Splined Core Control Cable

Ordered mine from Amazon Prime to get free two day shipping

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003905H88

Just finished install tonight - 3-4 hours in total - will post some pics... a few key points on my boat - definitely easier to pull from the control console through the back of boat... tried on second one to pull out towards console (Wrong...) also well worth two people - 10 mins to pull through with my son on each of them coming from console. Probably a 1-2 hour job if I ever had to do again.

Thanks for all the insights - my main point to pass along was the PN is correct for the AR240's. Now I have to learn how to post pics on this site.

Chris

 

[Unreal Yammi]

As a matter of reference, the "white clip" mentioned by @Julian has a small hole/opening at the end opposite the clip action and it corresponds with a dimple on the black seal that it sits against (the black seal is inserted into the hull opening and isn't shown in any of the above pics). When I replaced my reverse gate cables two weekends ago I noticed the dimple. The cables work like those on a new boat now.

 

[Julian]

Did my port side cable this last weekend....only difference...a few more zip ties I had to cut to get the cable through, and the last bend around the clean out hose is damn tight!

 

[Ilmmct]

@Julian what a great post. I am experiencing a very stuck Port throttle and have tried the easy stuff (Friction Screw, Cable lube). I am not at the mechanical skill level of you and the other Flag officers on this thread, but a great post/thread none the less. Thanks for this oldie-but-goodie!

 

[Julian]

I am not at the mechanical skill level of you and the other Flag officers on this thread, but a great post/thread none the less. Thanks for this oldie-but-goodie!

This really isnt very hard to do....time consuming yes, but difficult...no. I've learned a lot from members here over the years, and each year get more and more advanced with what I'm prepared to tackle. If you have sticker shock from the dealer on their cost to do this....perhaps a trip to Wilmington could be arranged!

 

[Ilmmct]

@Julian a trip to Wilmington can be arranged, but not for a mechanical endeavor ;-) I am waiting to see what the dealer is going to charge and when they can do the work. I've got the YES for another year, and see that some other members have had this covered under the Warranty.

The throttle moves and seems to loosen up as I keep moving it forward and back. Definitely not completely stuck. Let me know when you are ready to head east and play in these waters.

 

[Ilmmct]

Due to the gentle prodding of @Julian and the abundance of great advice in this thread, I fiddled some more on my Port Throttle stickiness issue (for my saltwater-based 2013 242 LS) before she gets towed off to the dealer 100 miles away.

Removed the cable controlling the buckets ... thanks in part to Capitan Leon -

and tried to get some anticorrosive and lube up into the cable. Attempted to make a makeshift version of:

http://www.all-about-houseboats.com...lubricate-or-save-a-throttle-shift-cable.html

Unfortunately my available materials on-hand did not hold pressure, so I am off to my closest big-box hardware store when time permits. On a positive note, this thread convinced me I need to be more vigilant in the future against the evils of my salt; so regular checking of the boots (thx to the members for boot ziptie idea), keeping the rams and the spots where the boots cover lubed to block salt air/water seepage and periodic lubing my cables from the easy to access bucket/transom end.

Some findings that I would appreciate any insight:

-with the bucket disconnected the Port throttle was still the same level of stickiness ... so no issue w/bucket movement being impeded
-from the throttle adjustment (found inside the engine hatch and thanks to @JetBoatPilot for a handy video -

) ... lubed this area and could move the throttle on both sides with relative ease
-when I move the Port throttle through its motions, I hear squeaks and stuff binding/rubbing together inside the Binnacle ... again with the boat under warranty and my level of skills I am not pulling this apart just yet
-I don't see any visible signs of rust on the areas of the cable that my eyes can see

Pop-up survey question ... my starboard side throttle moves as smooth as goose-poop ... should I bit the bullet and have the starboard throttle cable done while at the dealer for future hassle avoidance and a slight savings of killing two-birds with one stone at the dealer?

Thanks!

 

[Julian]

I wonder if it is just the binnacle binding somehow....it is easy to take out...perhaps a bit of lube is all it needs?

 

[Seadeals]

I am just curious to know if Yamaha' will stand behind early cable replacements if it is from corrosion accelerated by salt water. In the airplane business, most warranties specifically exclude corrosion damage. It is truly a cancerous wildcard in the cost of aircraft ownership. There have been a few exceptions with proven metallurgy issues; but in most instances they say, "tough luck".

I replaced my steering cables. One of the boots was cracked and it was holding water. The reverse cables are still working well. Should I try the oil injection as a preventative measure or continue with "if it ain't broke don't fix it"? I am worried the pressure on the plastic boot, which is likely brittle now, may do more harm than good.

 

[Ilmmct]

@Julian that is what I am thinking as well and I believe you that this is a reasonable task given your detailed post. Did i mention I have two left hands and have had many tramatic experiences putting my kids toys together on Christmas Eve? @Seadeals the Warranty has specific exclusions, one of which is the cables.

 

[Julian]

@Seadeals I never tried the oil injection method, but I boat in fresh water, so much less corrosion going on there. Part of my spring readiness is to grease the ends of every cable by pulling back the boot, slathering in grease, moving the cable and then pushing the boot back on.

@Ilmmct I hear ya....my brother is sometimes better off not touching things.... (hope he doesn't read this thread!)